[Norton Sharley]

And that's from Ru so imagine how hard the press is if you're short and 'normal' strength.

Mind the top must be easier if you're short cos your legs are closer to your arms, or the rock, or someat. 

[mrjonathanr]

My first E5's were the usuals -  White Wand.

White Wand does NOT seem a good choice to just launch up as a first E5!

[Steve R]

Apparently the knowledge in the eighties was to put it in first by leaning over the top.

If you wanted to get laughed at ...

ha, did it like this the other day as well as having pads for the first bit!  Overall, seemed the most fun way to climb it and would be a good one if you're going ok on your feet, not too reachy etc.  obviously have to ditch the pads and place that wire off the smears (unpleasant I imagine) if you were after claiming e5 for your efforts/didn't want to get laughed at by the sounds of the above....  Track of the Cat easier but bolder. 

Traffic Jam @ stoney on a milder day could be good.  Bit pumpy getting the gear sorted but then you can reverse to the deck quite easily.  Bouldery blast on small holds above good gear to the top.     

[simes]

One way of compiling a list of good first E5s would be list of people's actual first E5s, so Edge Lane and then Track of the Cat for me.

Mine were

The Thin Air
Nature Trail
Entropys Jaw
The Snivelling
White Wall
Pebble Mill
The Knock

[shark]

The first E5's for me were because they were graded E4 which according to my logbook were - Jermyn St (Millstone), Pillar (High Tor), Dogs of Hoare (Pembroke) and China Spring (High Tor)

[Ethan]

Arme Blanche at Burbage North wouldn't be a bad first E5 to go for.

[mark s]

The first E5's for me were because they were graded E4 which according to my logbook were - Jermyn St (Millstone), Pillar (High Tor), Dogs of Hoare (Pembroke) and China Spring (High Tor)

think mine might have been thin air,got it in guide as june 01.i did piece of mind 6 months before it,so i suppose that counts
neither what the op was after.

[mrjonathanr]

Were they onsight or toproped first Mark?

[mark s]

top roped 
did pom one friday night after work on my own.i hadnt been climbing long (1 yr)but realised you didnt need strength to tick the e numbers.

[JacobJacob]

My first E5s were Track of the Cat and Vanquished...

Although I would say White Wand is by far the easiest I've done and is basically a boulder problem if you use pads...

[fatdoc]

sniveling.

edge lane.


anything in the middle of the embankment.... simply for access.

rubicon roof... extended boulder problem.... though honeymoon blues is better.

[mrjonathanr]

Not sure I agree with recommending potentially serious routes like W.Wand or Edge Lane as good first E5s. The climbing on Edge Lane may be easy, but if you fall off the crux it's 40-odd feet to a quarry floor. Maybe I'm wrong

P.S. Surely Snivelling's about HVS ?

[dave]

And rubicon roof isn't a trad route, nevermind E5 (wasn't it E3 on pegs?)

[fatdoc]

sorry...

i did do it on pegs first time mind.