[Johnny Brown]

Apparently the knowledge in the eighties was to put it in first by leaning over the top.

[nik at work]

Fuck that, this is 2011, put it in by jetpack.

[soapy]

if you or your partner want to get their head 'in' for grit, why not travel up to high neb at stanage and have a crack at:

the beautician
impossible slab
quietus (& right hand)
king kong
old friends

i'd suggest a saturday afternoon, when the gawpers will be there to add that all important performance pressure!

[duncan]

My strong and 5'4" (approx.) friend did White Wall as her first grit E5 and reported it could be well protected if you have the tenacity to fiddle in the wires.  I've not done it so I'd suggest getting independent confirmation.  The peg is getting on and one from the same era came out of London Wall not long ago.

[grimer]

White Wall is a little bit of a pain I think. I spent ages upping and downing getting the kit in then fell off in about a quarter of a second. Didn't find it bery satisfying although if you flash that move it might be a different story.

[Johnny Brown]

White wall is a total pain in the arse to get the gear in. Shame cos the climbing is good.

[mrjonathanr]

Don't remember that? Up, place some wires, down for a breather. Up again, RP in high, contorted rockover, keep hauling, peg, another move, all over. I'd be wary of the peg now though, can't recall if it's back-up-able
I'd say London Wall is safer cos it's all your own gear, and the mid-height rest is really very good (I changed my jumper on it) so it isn't as bad a stamina test as it appears from the deck.

[fatdoc]

London Wall.
Behemoth's safe with friends although pumpy as.

I agree.

London wall....

[Tommy]

Good suggestion by Mark on Sole Survivor. I belayed a 5ft 14yr old on it and he nearly onsighted it. Was a bit trickier if short to clip the pegs, but still ok for the moves.

London wall is also not reach dependent, but knowing Tommy G's girlfriend (if I presuming the right people here) I'm not sure she'd be up for nasty finger jamming!

Goosey Goosey? I'm sure I've seen a pic of Lucy C on that.

[andy popp]

Apparently the knowledge in the eighties was to put it in first by leaning over the top.

If you wanted to get laughed at ...

Does it have to be grit? How about something like Miller's Tale (though that might be reachy?).

[Jaspersharpe]

I remember spending more time putting gear in than climbing when I did White Wall but only cos I kept thinking the next move was going to be the difficult one so was putting in three bits where one would have done. Very well protected, great climbing and quite easy, I'd say it would fit the bill.

[dave]

How about something like Miller's Tale (though that might be reachy?).

Are you guys the crew?

I don't generally equate "good first E5" with a route that probably hasn't been climbed in 15 years!!!

[andy popp]

How about something like Miller's Tale (though that might be reachy?).

Are you guys the crew?

I don't generally equate "good first E5" with a route that probably hasn't been climbed in 15 years!!!

Ah showing my age then; seems a shame, I really enjoyed the climbing through the bulge above the hole.

One way of compiling a list of good first E5s would be list of people's actual first E5s, so Edge Lane and then Track of the Cat for me.

[TommyG]

"London wall is also not reach dependent, but knowing Tommy G's girlfriend (if I presuming the right people here) I'm not sure she'd be up for nasty finger jamming!"


You might be suprised actually as she is pretty handy on finger locks/slim hand jamming.
Is Goosey Goosey well protected?

[Johnny Brown]

Goosey Goosey? I'm sure I've seen a pic of Lucy C on that

Its very good but really pumpy to get the gear in, no rests and then the crux is quite a reach. Better as a snowball!

My first E5's were the usuals - Pebble Mill, The Snivelling, Entropy's, Track, White Wand.

[dave]

mine was The Knock, after that I can't remember. was probably routes like pebble mill, el vino collapso, tierdrop, artless etc. Remarkably some or fewer of those are still considered either E5 or even routes.

[John Gillott]

Goosey Goosey isn't reachy is it? You don't have to reach past that top bulge / crack: there's a great finger jam in the middle of it, esp for thin fingers. It'd make a good one for someone who is as strong and fit as indicated in the original request and is looking for something well protected (as opposed to unprotected routes / highballs).

[Bonjoy]

Hold on a minute I thought the spec here was that the guy is a self professed strong “wuss”?  And everyone is suggesting bold soloes with easy moves.
Fair enough, if that's the game then ignore what I said before and go for one of the ones most people do first e.g. Sniveling, Track of the Cat, Artless. On that theme Curved Arete at Black Rocks fits the bill nicely, boulder prob start then progressively easier moves to the top, the bit after the boulder prob seemed about E1 to me.

[Johnny Brown]

Keep up Yoot - he's a she!

[mark s]

Although e4,ceasarian at hen cloud is perfect.safe as mugabees presidency.worth e5 for a onsight

[Norton Sharley]

Goosey is reachy.

And I wouldn't want to be stuck on the top wall of  Pebble Mill (again) not being able to make the 'easy' reach to the top break without some hideous smearing action.  Not recommended if you are 5'2".

Of those suggested so far fitting the safe and strong bill:

Bat Out of Hell is well protected and fine for the short.
Moon Crack is fine at E5 given that  it used to be E4.  There's a reach at the top but you're not overly committed.
Knock is fine, and was E4
White Wall is fine to protect with RP's, and was E4 but I agree that it's not that good a route.

What about Vanquished?  A boulder problem above some easier climbing.
Or Pacific Ocean Wall, bouldering into a baby bouncer.

At least these seem to fit the bill more than solo's above mats?

[Paul B]

I take it due to the time of year its Grit and not Lime thats wanted?

[ksjs]

not done loads in the Peak but is Strapadictomy not a good option (sorry if already mentioned above)?

[dave]

not if you're short.

[Ru]

not done loads in the Peak but is Strapadictomy not a good option (sorry if already mentioned above)?

It's pretty powerful pressing into the hanging flake/crack if you've got a short wingspan.