[TommyG]

If you are a bit of a wuss but are looking to push your trad then what E5's are good and safe to try?

If you have climbed 7c sport and 7c bouldering then I'm guessing there is some fittness there and at least some power but where the body is willing the mind is weak.

Does anyone have any suggestions for the aspiring boulderer/sport climber for their first E5's in the peak?

 

[SA Chris]

Have a trawl through this.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16732.0.html

I think this should be under " chuffing"?

[TommyG]

Cheers for this Chris!

The climber in question is particularly short! 5"2 ish.
So what I'm really asking is for a safe or highballable E5 that suits a shortie!

I have had a look through this thread before and there is not loads in the Peak.

Nosferatu maybe?????

[SA Chris]

I'm not the one to ask I'm afraid. Plus I'm a foot taller than you, so not one to ask for gnome beta

[John Gillott]

Moon Crack - probably easier for the short.

Safe and powerful, if a bit tiring to get the gear in: ideal for a 7c boulderer with some sport fitness.

[Steamboat Stello]

Was going to suggest Strapadictomy but if your 5"2 that one will be a tad trick, unless you've got a plus ten AI!? Nosferatu is not all that safe (plus isn't it E6?) to try as the landings a little bit doge, I've heard of several people breaking themselves on this.
Moon Crack maybe? Bat out of a hell?

[north_country_boy]

Bat out of Hell is considerably harder if your short.

How about...

Perfect Day - Gardoms
Moon Crack - Curbar (ditto)

Are you requesting E5 because he's solid at E4 and wants to step up a notch? or because you think E5 is where he should be?

IMHO, there are fair more quality E4 in the peak which would prove more fruitful and better suited...

[grimer]

Was going to suggest those 2 NCB.

Plus, highballing an E5 isn't doing an E5. I don't mean that in a snooty way but it's a massively different experience having a rope on, firing in nuts then running it out compared to sketching up an arete as the spotters and pads get further away. Not to say one is harder, but the roped jobbies are such a buzz.

[TommyG]

Nah that cool Grimer.

I do know what you mean.
In response to Northern Country Boy I guess its more of an estimation of capability rather than them being solid at E4 and looking to move up.

Moon Crack sounds awesome though and its a good length. Is it about 7a+ french?

[Bonjoy]

How about:
Inaccessible – Ina’s Rock – well protected and pumpy
Nettle Wine – Cratcliffe – Good gear then a brilliant boulder prob with a very safe fall
Moolah and New Mediterranean – Rivelin – Place one set of bomber gear (several big RPs and a friend 0), down climb and get to do two safe bouldery routes off it

[Paul B]

In response to Northern Country Boy I guess its more of an estimation of capability rather than them being solid at E4 and looking to move up.

I forsee head issues. Physical ability means nothing when you're shitting yourself 

It might be worth starting a bit further down and working upwards.

[slackline]

It might be worth starting a bit further down and working upwards.

Sit start E5's? 

[north_country_boy]

How about:
Inaccessible – Ina’s Rock – well protected and pumpy
Nettle Wine – Cratcliffe – Good gear then a brilliant boulder prob with a very safe fall
Moolah and New Mediterranean – Rivelin – Place one set of bomber gear (several big RPs and a friend 0), down climb and get to do two safe bouldery routes off it

I was going to suggest Nettle wine on a subsequent E4 list..... Good call.

Moolah and New Mediterranean are great too, although at 5'2" they'd feel full value at the grade! Both significantly reachy propositions

[andyd]

Does track of the cat still get E5?  Classic, straightforward and safe. 

[Will Hunt]

If this is their first trad then this is an absurd baptism of fire. You want to make sure they know how to place decent kit and have a head for it.

[Johnny Brown]

Track of the Cat is the only route mentioned so far that I'd have had a hope in hell of doing as my first E5. I failed on Inaccessible only last year! Horses for courses I guess...

[Tommy]

Tommy, guessing this is for your other half??

The most unreachy that I can think of are:

London Pride - Millstone
Goliath - Burbage

Both have ample holds to choose from, they're just not always what you're wanting!

Is the Sphinx at Burbage E5?

One of the more obscure E5s at Ina's might be suitable in a highballable way. When you get down and think about it, it's not that easy to come up with short friendly E5s that aren't too bold! No wonder Lucy Creamer doesn't get on with it, despite being such an ace climber.

[Tommy]

Ah, just thought of 2.

Go to the Roost in Lancs. 2 E5s there that are a piece of piss and they've got quite a few pegs and aren't reachy.

[Adam Lincoln]

Go to the Roost in Lancs. 2 E5s there that are a piece of piss and they've got quite a few pegs and aren't reachy.

  And the E6's.

[Johnny Brown]

One of the more obscure E5s at Ina's might be suitable in a highballable way

The two on the right? I don't think they're E5 really, but if you're happy with the guidebook grade they're easy unless something snaps! For highballs, Entropy's Jaw would be a better one to go for I think. Hazel would be the person to ask, think's she's 5'2" too?

[mark s]

as jb says track of the cat is very do'able.top might be a problem for a midget.
sole survivor in the churnet would be ok.certainly not going to deck.

[andyd]

entropy's jaw is bold.  i went for the solo with good pads and great spotters.

i'd make sure that you're competent at onsighting lots of E3&4s first...  choose your E5 on what you feel suits you, not what others recommend.  I stay clear of the burly ones.   

[mrjonathanr]

London Wall.
Behemoth's safe with friends although pumpy as.

[dave]

Unless you're a bone fide stamina wad you'll find that most people (or at least most people who've been brought up on grit) have a bold but physically piss E5 as their first. Typical routes being the knock (cos its E4), pebble mill, etc etc.

[Ru]

entropy's jaw is bold.  i went for the solo with good pads and great spotters.

I did it with a rope and put the wire in  -  didn't feel bold that way and I didn't find the wire that hard to place, although you could be at the top in the time it takes to place it.