My Own Private Idaho. (Read 12433 times)

c.j.d. · January 30, 2011, 08:41:01 pm

[img]/img]

I felt inclined to put this on news, as opposed to 'Bouldering', so apologies and all that.

This afternoon, I succeeded on one of my long term projects, this one being up at Crafnant, in the Wales. I've been trying this with varying degrees of prowess since October last year, and it is now, as they say in the province 'Dans Le Sac'.

'My Own Private Idaho' is without doubt the best 1st ascent I have climbed, and also, I think, my hardest. I've named it due to the fact that the peace, tranquility and for the most part, the solitude of the area. It really is a very special place to be on the right day, and today was just amazing.

The problem itself in on the 'Wonder Wall' bloc, and is just to the left of Cruella De'Ville (one of Mark Katz' lines). The climbing is superb, and I've probably spent the last 10 years looking for this one (usually, traveling overseas in called for). Two very hard and stunning moves (cellar style) and a steel tension foot maneuver leads to easier, but very much stunning, ground on a particularly well formed arete. I've no idea as to a grade, but it's harder (in my opinion) than anything else I've done. Cheers to Nodder for countless days spent up here with me over the last few months (your turn now!), and to Joe Sterling for a Sterling day at the crag (and an even Sterlinger Guinness afterwards).

Paul B · January 30, 2011, 09:38:37 pm

Good effort no doubt, however, there's nothing inside the image tags

Doylo · January 30, 2011, 10:53:19 pm

Is it not the line to the right of Cruella (not deville)?

tesla · January 30, 2011, 11:00:28 pm

da iawn, Mr. Davies! Sounds amazing. :-)

c.j.d. · January 31, 2011, 06:33:20 am

Quote from: Doylo on January 30, 2011, 10:53:19 pm

Is it not the line to the right of Cruella (not deville)?

Nice one Chris. Yep, it is to the right!. I thought Katzy called that line after the Dalmatians chick? Just Cruella it is then.

uptown · January 31, 2011, 10:30:36 am

Well done Chris! Well worthy. Great to see long term projects going down, and sounds like a great place.

Doylo · January 31, 2011, 10:48:58 am

Yeah he just said Cruella. Good vision, none of us even spotted that as a potential problem yet when i first took you up there you saw it straight away!

ducko · January 31, 2011, 12:26:17 pm

nice too see another FA going down in north wales

Pantontino · January 31, 2011, 01:12:41 pm

Good work CJD - I knew you'd get it in the end.

For everybody else, there's some pics here which give an idea of the angle and the size of the holds (i.e. tiny!):

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=485

SA Chris · January 31, 2011, 01:17:16 pm

Fuck me that looks brutal - awesome and awful at the same time.

Go on cjd, throw your hat in and give it a number.

cofe · January 31, 2011, 01:21:36 pm

Nice! Good effort Chris.

Adam Lincoln · January 31, 2011, 02:17:55 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on January 31, 2011, 01:17:16 pm

Go on cjd, throw your hat in and give it a number.

He seems to have gone for 8b

Doylo · January 31, 2011, 05:53:16 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on January 31, 2011, 01:17:16 pm

Go on cjd, throw your hat in and give it a number.

Don't tempt him!

Fiend · January 31, 2011, 06:00:10 pm

And where has he gone for 8b??

Well done CJD. Looks like a cool area.

c.j.d. · January 31, 2011, 09:38:30 pm

I put 8b on the 8a.nu thing. I might sack that, as I really have no idea.

Its definitely hard, and I'm pretty sure this suits me down to the ground. Its been a while since I took this long to do anything, but who knows?! I really have no idea, but it felt pretty hard to me, and took a long time of effort. Very specific.

richieb · February 01, 2011, 08:18:42 am

Nice one Chris

nodder · February 01, 2011, 09:42:48 am

font 9a i heard.
bastard, jealousy really isn't very becoming is it.

c.j.d. · February 01, 2011, 12:23:16 pm

A beer would be good Dave, but not in the same style as Saturday. Wine and bullshitting with a bit of Neil Young is more my scene. My place or yours?

Pantontino · February 01, 2011, 01:10:18 pm

Quote from: c.j.d. on February 01, 2011, 12:23:16 pm

A beer would be good Dave, but not in the same style as Saturday. Wine and bullshitting with a bit of Neil Young is more my scene. My place or yours?

The night might start out with such innocent notions, but I see mayhem and madness by the witching hour!!!

Doylo · February 01, 2011, 07:11:11 pm

Quote from: c.j.d. on February 01, 2011, 12:23:16 pm

A beer would be good Dave, but not in the same style as Saturday. Wine and bullshitting with a bit of Neil Young is more my scene. My place or yours?

Dressing gown, slippers and pipe for mr davies please. Tony's told me about your glory days on the dudno drinking scene CJD. Sounds like you're well and truly over the hill!

Jaspersharpe · February 03, 2011, 09:39:42 am

Comes to us all.

Effort CJD. Looks quality.

Pantontino · February 04, 2011, 12:28:03 pm

Quote from: Doylo on February 01, 2011, 07:11:11 pm

Quote from: c.j.d. on February 01, 2011, 12:23:16 pm
A beer would be good Dave, but not in the same style as Saturday. Wine and bullshitting with a bit of Neil Young is more my scene. My place or yours?

Dressing gown, slippers and pipe for mr davies please. Tony's told me about your glory days on the dudno drinking scene CJD. Sounds like you're well and truly over the hill!

Nah, CJD was just playing smart - he knew the conditions would be awesome on Sunday. How gutted was Nodder to miss out on that - "so sticky, it felt like cheating" according to Joe.

a dense loner · February 05, 2011, 10:07:34 am

does look quality that chris, nice one

craftnant is superb and underrated

c.j.d. · February 05, 2011, 08:10:26 pm

Jesus Dense, was that four positives in one post? Is there love in the air?

a dense loner · February 06, 2011, 08:51:09 am

no, credit where credits due, always

don't get me wrong you've done some shit in your time, but this isn't one of them