[tomtom]

Hi Everyone,
This seemingly basic problem has been gnawing away at me for years. I’ve f*cked about with different micro beta for ages - but from my last session I think it now boils down to the right heel. I find it really hard to get this heel to do anything really helpful so for the move from the sidepull from the crimp (the crux) is it...

A. Just a big pull and the right heel just kind of sits there and keeps your body on (ish) - all the movement up is generated from the left toe.
B. A big pull on the right heel to rock up (dynamically) for the crimp
C. A heel toe? (Can’t seem to get this to work)
D. Combination of the above!

I failed to find a decent spot for the right heel on the shelf that feels like oiled glass... heel toe doesn’t seem to work and getting the heel deep to the right doesn’t feel right either. About 10cm from the lh edge on a teeny divot feels the best. But feels crap.

Ramble ramble / it’s been spinning in my head for the past few days - and no insights I’ve found from the many pit problem videos....

Help! Or am I overthinking this...

[yetix]

For me it's closest to A, the heel just has to stay on more than anything, the left foot pushes alot and I essentially flick the right hand as my left foot is generating momentum, and then catch the RH whilst also engaging the right heel to oppose the decentish LH.

There's a slight dink on the RHeel I find if I place it directly below my RH when doing the move, it just bites into that.

Hope that's moderately useful.

[tomtom]

Thanks Yetix. When I’ve filmed myself my heel seems to fly off just as my right hand is getting   close to the crimp - frustrating.

[M1V0]

I find that the trick relies around the heel being rather high on the ramp, and then you use the left toe to compress. This allows the heel to stick for the move. If you look under, there is an obviously rubber marked smear for your foot. Place your big toe on that and squeeze in against the heel. Makes all the difference.

[teestub]

I was going to say, I think I had my heel right near the top getting a bit of a smear heel toe, but this position may be too bunched for you Tom?

[tomtom]

Not my best attempt - but one I have on film..

[tomtom]

Thanks for replies (just off out with Mrs for first time I in months) - will digest later. 👍👍

[36chambers]

Not my best attempt - but one I have on film..

on that attempt, it looks like your LF was the first thing to go

[GCW]

You can get a reasonable heel/toe lock that may help. But it’s basically A.

[tomtom]

Not my best attempt - but one I have on film..

on that attempt, it looks like your LF was the first thing to go

I think it’s more how I’m loading it.. changes angle etc.. (can’t see now )

[Bradders]

seemingly basic problem

Hit the nail on the head really, it's a basic hard pull and contact strength based latch.

Otherwise, Yetix is spot on.

Although, I've always perversely found it easier pulling on from lower than you are in your video; i.e. RH at the top of the big shelf. Easier and less awkward pull on and allows you to place your heel on the minuscule nubbin better.

Something else you could try is instead of using the big side pull get a drag in the crack just above. I think you're tall enough to do it this way. Puts you closer to the hold but makes finding the left toe (which is crucial) a bit harder.

[tomtom]

Thanks everyone - will try getting more heel toe action on it...

I used to start it from the low RH - but whilst working it seems easier (ish) to start from the sidepull. And then a couple of years back it seems that’s how everyone does it now. Probably helps why it’s dropped to 7B.

Might try using the crack Bradders. Though it feels like I need to work in getting that heel settled right.

[tomtom]

Went today. Good session - no cigar.

What I found out
A. Working the topout was sensible as whilst it’s easy once figured out - the right one or two holds on the slab make all the difference.

B. I found two heel placements that worked better. Both further right (20cm from lh end). Closer one had a sharp edge that the heel caught on a bit - the further one was a sharp edge starting to go around the corner of the shelf (I am tall). The closer one felt better for the move -less stretched out. But the further one certainly locked my heel in better

C. How I held my heel made w real difference. Eg if I had my right knee dropped it was pressing into the flatty all the time. If I had my right knee raised (as previously) it was twisting my heel off as I went up higher.

D. It’s all in the squeeze. If I compress between left toe and right heel it all stays on better. But - it feels really weird to compress and move dynamically upwards at the same time.

E. Reaching the hold is no problem whatsoever.

F. I couldn’t find any sort of heel toe malarkey- it’s all heel.

Clip below is interesting. Lh side is trying to squeeze between heel and toe - also right knee is dropped. Rh side is an earlier go with less squeeze and you can see the heel is more upright (if that makes sense). Both attempts I get the RH around the crimp - but I’m not going to hold that unless I can keep those legs on.



Progress - thanks for the psyche and advice.

[Bradders]

compress and move dynamically upwards at the same time.

This is a feature of quite a lot of hard climbing no?

Can't believe it was dry today! Trowbarrow delivers.

[tomtom]

Mint (ish!) only thing wet in the Stone was that 7A around the back. Slot on Holdem was damp too.

[tomtom]

Incremental session today - that was interrupted by a heavy shower just as I was making progress..

This may look pitiful - but compared to previous sessions both feet stayed on while my hand slapped (below) the hold.. normally they’d fired off by this point. Squeeze and throw...

It dried up a bit after the shower but I couldn’t get warmed up again.

[M1V0]

Nice one! Just got to flick those hips a touch more as you throw upwards and you're golden.