Quote from: T_B on January 27, 2011, 05:02:10 pmOK, it doesn't make any sense to me. Believe me, I've seen some pretty shocking ground up bolting on alpine rock in the States. Lots of rivet holes made so that the next bolt can be placed whilst the ground up purist stands in his aiders. I think the whole 'ethic' is, let's say, very dubious.It's the same ethic that spawned the Bachar-Yerian - a route you described as an all-time highlight.
OK, it doesn't make any sense to me. Believe me, I've seen some pretty shocking ground up bolting on alpine rock in the States. Lots of rivet holes made so that the next bolt can be placed whilst the ground up purist stands in his aiders. I think the whole 'ethic' is, let's say, very dubious.
Decrying ground-up bolting (bad) whilst at the same time accepting a whole plethora of contrivances that also help you climb a piece of rock as OK (abseil inspection, chalk, sticky rubber, expansion devices, training whatever) has only been arrived as a matter of cultural context and how the game has evolved.
If you'd like to read the following link.......and if you see fit, sign the petition.At the time of me posting this there are 921 signatures, mainly from the US, but also from elsewhere round the world. You guys on this site are not daft, so thats why I've bothered to register on UKB and hopefully get you guys on board:http://bit.ly/foXVJdorhttp://www.change.org/petitions/view/tell_david_lamas_sponsors_to_stop_their_support_of_his_bolting_actions_on_cerro_torreCheers!
Soweit wie möglich möchte ich mich ja an die Kompressorroute halten, vom Einrichten aus dem Abseilsitz werde ich allerdings absehen. Sollten also fürs Freiklettern Abweichungen notwendig sein, so müsste ich diese von unten angehen und einrichten; ein zeitaufwändiges Unterfangen für die knappen patagonischen „Schön“wetterfenster.
Slackers, jwi linked to DL's blog (the horses mouth, as it were), and I linked to colin haleys (which has been the best summary of the situation I've found and by someone out there), not sure what more you want from us.
"I would like to stay on the Compressor-route as much as possible, I will certainly abstain from equipping [the route] on rappel. If deviation from the route is necessary for free climbing I will try this ground-up; a time consuming process for the short Patagonian good-weather window."
Last time the Lama controversy was in full spate I was amazed by the coincidence of pious critical articles about Lama being followed a day or two later by a news item on the Pou brothers' latest exploits with numerous photos of them spattered with the sickly-taurine drink's brand.
“In February of 2011 Canadians Chris Geisler and Jason Kruk came very close to pulling off a complete "fair means" ascent of the SE ridge of Cerro Torre, reaching a point 40 meters below of the top of the headwall without using any of Maestri's bolts for progression. They followed the Salvaterra-Mabboni and Wharton-Smith lines to the headwall, then climbed the first headwall pitch right over the bolts but without using them (free at 5+), to then move right for a pitch (they aided some but estimated it would go free at 6c), later crossing left of the bolted line to reach an obvious ledge one pitch below the compressor. From here they climbed left to a point level with the compressor but about 40 meters left of it. In the early morning, after having climbed through the night and in very high winds Geisler finished his lead by traversing back right following a thin seam, to eventually make a pendulum that took him to the third bolt down from the compressor. From that point they retreat. In the darkness Geisler failed to notice features further left that likely would have allowed him to climb a completetly independent fair means line to the top. On that last pitch, which required 8 hours, Geisler placed a single bolt climbing left and one while traversing right back to the compressor. Hats off for such a great effort!!”
“At our second try this year, my partner Peter Ortner and I finally succeeded to climb the top of the Cerro Torre. Starting from the shoulder we got up to the ice-covered peak after 10 hours of technical climbing. At about 10.00 p.m. and catching the last evening light we lastly reached the top. Our Cerro Torre-marathon (El Chalten shoulder – Cerro Torre – shoulder El Chalten) lasted all in all 46 hours.”
"David Lama was on the Torre aid climbing up the bolts so we were being buzzed all day long by a helicopter film crew."
over-caffeinated sugary drink company I'd consider a waste of time as I don't believe they'd have any interest in my views.
