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UKB Power Club Week 49 Mon 17th Jan - Sun 23rd Jan (Read 12622 times)

Nibile

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mon - Beastmaker. one arm dead hangs. 20°, big rung, 35°, right eye, small rung, mid2, front2 x 5 sets. help when needed.
tue - rest.
wed - wall. 2,5 hours. set a few new problems. repeated old problems with weight vest at 4 kg. overall tired and not sparky.
thu - rest.
fri - wall. light session, easy circuits. pumped. one armers, bicep curl supersets.
sat - rest. hungover.
sun - bouldering!!! YYFY!!! good!!!
bring it.

aly

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LTG: 7C and 8a, might have to drop these a bit
MTG: sort finger out and get climbing again.
STG: sort out bloody skin problems which mean my 1st finger is totally unusable.

Mon: Indoor bouldering session, finger not feeling too bad so slowly getting back into things
Tues: Intervals road running session, fairly hard.  Then pull-up session on the bar, managed from 90 to the top again with 2kg assistance so I'm back where I was pre-xmas.
Weds: Went boulding at eatswood, got comprehensively spanked but I did manage the V0 slab (it only took about 15 goes).  Not looking good for this real climbing lark
Thurs: Run, 3.7 miles, fast pace, knackered.  Pull up session, one-arm locks getting a bit better, and front levers aren't miles off to happy enough.
Fri: Fairly brief pull up and fingerboard session
Sat: Even briefer pull up session
Sun: Churnet action, went to Cottage rocks and managed to work a selection of the Font 5 problems.  Had a quick play on Ousal low and the holds have all got bigger which was nice (didn't really have time to properly try the full link).

Next week I'm going to try and start some sort of proper systematic training cycle so will see how it goes for a couple of weeks.

chris05

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M: pull-ups, press-ups, BM (3x30 foot on moves, repeaters & max hangs), weights & core (500)
T: pull-ups, press-ups, BM (3x30 foot on moves, repeaters & max hangs), weights & core (500)
W: swim (60 lengths) & core (500)
T: nothing (pub)
F: swim (60 lengths)
S: bouldering at cratcliffe and RHS
S: nothing

Quite a good week overall, good to get out again, didn't get up anything new but did feel strong and improved on previous bests. I got back into swimming, partly due to calf injury but also to get fit for surf trip to morocco in march.

al123

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STG- more grit font 7a's
MTG- onsight more E1 and E2's


M- core session, felt good.
T- rest
W- work.
T- the climbing works, felt good but didnt warm up enough so got pumped fairly quickly but did some good problems on the comp wall.
F- worked
S- trackside, after doing trackside last week did it first time then first time again later, did trackside dyno too. and tried the bad lip but couldnt rock over. good day
S- worked.

A good week all in all, trackside my first 7a and trackside dyno my first 7b but its 7a if you tall i think.

Boogster

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STG- 6c+
MTG- 7a in Font at Easter


M - essay-writing
T - 2.5 hours at the Matrix. Felt shattered.
W - essay-writing
T - Matrix. Felt really strong, flashed problems all over the place, then 'small pop', and my left ring finger goes. Fuck.
F - Finger feels like shit.
S - Finger feels slighly better
S - :( 

What a fucking nightmare. I injured my right hand ring finger at the beginning of October but now I'm well and truly recovered from that I've injured the same finger on the other hand, in exactly the same way! I think it's flexor unit rather than pulley (the pain seems to be concentrated in the palm rather than finger itself), and it doesn't seem to be quite as bad as the last one. It already feels a lot improved. Nevertheless, I hope these aren't going to become chronic. I guess I need to warm up more thoroughly or something... 

iain

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and then managed to do deliverance - my first 7B+  :great:.

Good effort Andy   :bow:

James Yeah

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Forgot this last week and nearly forgot this week.

LTG: Sport 7a, boulder 7a.

Mon: Went Roaches, did a few things including Joe's Arete and other easy probs, decided to have a relaxed day.
Tue:  Rest
Wed: Indoor climbing, few 6a+s, 6b and 6c  (top roped) Then bouldered for an hour after.
Thur: Indoor climbing, Onsighted a couple of 6b's, worked the moves on a 7a+ then bouldered for a few hours.
Fri:  2 hours indoor bouldering, did some new problems and one i'd been working on.
Sat: Rest
Sun: 2 hours indoor bouldering, flashed a few new problems, had a good time.


Next week might not be so great as i've done the flexor unit in my middle finger a couple of days ago, can barely close my hand or move my finger,  hoping it'll heal quickly as it's my first finger injury and i'm making sure i rest it and ice it a lot.  Typical it happens just as i'm starting to feel relatively okay again.

 

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