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UKB Power Club Week 48 Mon 10th Jan - Sun 16th Jan (Read 11945 times)

aly

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MTG: one armer and front lever
LLTG: 8a and 7C

Mon: Bouldering session at Derby.  Finger feeling OK but arms knackered having not climbed for a fortnight
Tues: Afternoon pull-up/front lever session.  Evening indoor skiing (properly knackering) then a very brief bedtime pull up session.
Weds: Arms still sore so quick pull-up/lever session and a short CV workout (bike and slow run)
Thurs: Stoke for power enduro session, feeling better on the 45 board but still powered out early in the session
Fri: brief pull up and lever session
Sat: Went to most of the crags in the peak - all wet - ended up doing mega session in the works (as was the rest of Sheffield by the looks of it).  Beer.
Sun: Went to another wet crag before giving up and going for a road run.  3.7 miles, ~30mins.

shark

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Sat: brilliant day ... possible first repeat of an old Damian Cook font 7a roof problem from years ago, then moved back to previous day's venue and did a great link on my new route project then redpointed the 7c.

 :thumbsup: Nice one. You didn't mention that this morning. Is that your first 7c ?

Nibile

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mon - Beastmaker. two arms max deadhangs. 6 hangs for 8 sets.
tue - rest. stretching.
wed - gym. good! nothing superhard but retroflashed almost everything included a mega testpiece that took me 3 sessions to be done in December.
thu - The Wailing Wall. power recruitment. short powerful fingery and pinchy problems.
fri - rest, tired. stretching.
sat - one armers, bicep curl supersets. 1 max pull up x 6 sets. heavy.
sun - bouldering! good! psyched.

douglas

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r.e. campusing: I went through a phase of trying to have a campus session once a week when i was bouldering 7a+/b and trying desperately to move upwards, being able to do 147 had far more effect on my ego than on my climbing grade though! Also it was a bit misguided I think as I was already over-strong for the grade I was climbing.
Interesting point but it looks like I've got the opposite problem to you as I have it on good authority I'm quite weak for the grades I climb.

Not as weak for the grade as others around here (Shark, TimBroughtonshaw, me...)

So what's your key? Would you say you have good to very good power endurance though training? Or does that and good aerobic stamina come through years of climbing routes?
Cheers

chris05

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STG: 7A

M: pull-ups, press-ups, weights, core (500) & BM (repeaters, max hangs, 4x8 footless moves)
T: nothing
W: pub
T: pull-ups, press-ups, weights, core (500) & BM (repeaters, 3x30 moves foot on, max hangs)
F: core (500)
S: short session at Pleasley vale
S: short session at Raven Tor

An Ok week, no running as I have hurt my calf. Good to get outside again even if it was spent avoiding wet holds. Really enjoyed first trip to the Tor, keen for Weedkiller traverse when its drier (and I'm stronger).

Andy F

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r.e. campusing: I went through a phase of trying to have a campus session once a week when i was bouldering 7a+/b and trying desperately to move upwards, being able to do 147 had far more effect on my ego than on my climbing grade though! Also it was a bit misguided I think as I was already over-strong for the grade I was climbing.
Interesting point but it looks like I've got the opposite problem to you as I have it on good authority I'm quite weak for the grades I climb.

Not as weak for the grade as others around here (Shark, TimBroughtonshaw, me...)

So what's your key? Would you say you have good to very good power endurance though training? Or does that and good aerobic stamina come through years of climbing routes?
Cheers
Probably a bit of both. Being the short scrawny type I've never had much power but can hang on for a bit.

douglas

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Okay, cheers.

apharri

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Mon- Weights

Tue- Strength (Bouldering)

Wed- Morning- Very bad anaerobic capacity session. Problem too hard.
          Evening- Stamina

Thur- Rest

Fri- First go on new power endurance circuit. Completed it fairly easily in three parts. Psyched

Sat- Much better anaerobic capacity session.

Sun- Rest

Falling Down

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Goals

M - 45 minutes row (10k)
T
W - Some pressups and stretching
T
F - Row, Pullups, Full set of Repeaters - 'rest' row, Pullups, Manmakers/Plank, Row
S - Walk, stretching (footie and beer)
S - Indoor bouldering - Big holds on steep board, volume/circuits.

 

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