[yorkshirewarcry]

I'll be heading out to California on business for 6-8 weeks later this week.  Spending time in various places including Palm Springs, San Diego, LA and San Francisco.

Weekends and the occasional afternoon will be free for climbing, so I'm looking for recommendations of good problems within easy reach of the above cities.  I have the Bay area bouldering guide for SF area, but if anyone can recommend some great crags/problems worthy of a visit that'd be great.

Also, any recommendations of some good problems V0-V7 at Joshua Tree?  Also any classic, easy (5.7 - 5.9 ish) solos that are a short walk from the car...

I've got a weekend of chuffing planned at the Jailhouse - any route recommendations there around 5.11d/5.12a...?

[hairich]

if you can get out of sf on a fri eve yosemite is 3 hours away and if leaving la bishop is about the same

[SA Chris]

Palm Springs to Joshua Tree is no distance at all.  Can't remember any specific problems, but there are some at the roadside in the Hidden Valley Campground, including Stem Gem (try it on a cold day and check no-one is camping underneath it). If you are keen to do some routes, check the notice boards, there are always folk looking for partners.

If you are going to be dipping in and out of the NPs it's probably worth getting an annual pass, which will pay itself off in about 4 or 5 visits.

[yorkshirewarcry]

if you can get out of sf on a fri eve yosemite is 3 hours away and if leaving la bishop is about the same

Isn't yosemite mostly covered in snow at this time of year?

Bishop is on the list...

Cheers

[T_B]

I've boudered at Stoney Point in LA. Can't remember much other than it was polished. Might be good for an afternoon?



At J Tree Planet X is amazing if you like higball V6 dynos



More cool stuff here

[duncan]

Yosemite can be great over the winter and has to be an essential visit even if you don't climb.  For routes, the north side lower valley crags like Arch Rock, The Cookie and Reeds are fine a sunny winter day.  The locals will be out running laps top-roping their favourites.  Many people prefer winter to any other time for bouldering.  This assumes good weather but the chances are at least evens on any given day.  Occassionally big storms will block the roads in for a day or two.  Camping is cold but there are motels just outside the park.  It's more like 4 hours drive, even from somewhere east bay like Berkeley, and longer if the traffic is not ideal. 

[yorkshirewarcry]

Yosemite can be great over the winter and has to be an essential visit even if you don't climb. 

Yep - I've been to the valley before - and like you say definitely worth a visit.  This trip, as I'll only have a day or so here and there, it'd be good to check out some other crags.

So far on the list are:  Castle Rock (SF), Joshua Tree (nr Palm Springs), Stoney Point (LA), Ring Mountain (SF), Berkeley Bouldering areas (SF) and Goat Rock (SF). 

I'll also have a few days down in Arizona so going to check out Cochise Stronghold.

Any more suggestions very welcome...

[SA Chris]

Where in Arizona are you going to be? Cochise is a long way away in the far SE corner. There is some good stuff a lot closer; tons of granite around Prescott, and loads of stuff around Flagstaff.


If you PM me with an email adress I can send you over a few pdf topos from the now mostly defunct dr topo.com

[yorkshirewarcry]

 

Cheers - have sent pm.  I'll be in Phoenix and Tucson...

[AndyR]

I think Mt Woodsun near San Diego is worth a visit - have not been  - quite old school (read: cracks) by all accounts.

[Lund]

 http://members.cox.net/sandiegorock

[Rabies]

If you do find yourself in Arizona for a while you should definitely try Priest Draw and Howard Draw just outside Flagstaff.  Great horizontal limestone pocketed roofs. You can buy a topo (on a cd) from the climbing gym in Flagstaff. 

I have been to Castle Rock but it was wet unfortunately.  The problems looked okay but don't expect a mini Fontainebleau.

Bishop should be top of your list I reckon.  There's also a fair amount around Lake Tahoe area but I don't know enough about it.  I would have thought that much of it will be in the snow considering it's a skiing destination.

Have a good trip!

[yorkshirewarcry]

Thanks all - now out in Cali staying in Palm Springs for a few days.  Managed a jetlagged, very early morning session at J-Tree yesterday.

Just went to Turtle Rock boulders - some great stuff there.  Scared myself stupid more than once - all very highball, so "fun" alone with just a single pad.

I'll be back at J-Tree Sunday/Monday, so any tips for must do problems?  I have the bouldering guide, but - once again - presonal recommendations always welcome.

[TonyS]

Dont know if this is too late but these are must do problems at JT

Caveman, Stem Gem & Slam Dunk (same boulder), Streetcar Named Desire, Planet X,  So High (if you like soloing).

Also have you tried the area called "The Tramway"  its in Palm Springs itself.  You go up the tramway and its on the plateau at the top.  Dont know much about it apart from its been eveloped since I was there in 2002.  Looked good and the tramway itself is a great ride.

Hope this helps

T

[yorkshirewarcry]

Thanks Tony - Streetcar Named Desire and Caveman both on the list, but will have to wait for the next visit at weekend.

Did Stemgem, White Rastafarian, Roof Romp, Blatant Disregard for Human Safety this weekend. 

So High is a little too high for me!  Looks terrifying!

Thanks for the tip re the Tramway - will maybe check it out one of the coming weekends - I think there is some snow up there at the moment though.

[nathan wind]

If you're still in Palm Springs, and depending on the weather Black Mountain is well worth checking out, incredible place.. though snow could be an issue getting up to it.. if there's little snow, then you should definitely go.. imho some of the best bouldering in the States..

Check out the Black Mountain Blog.. they occasionally post with regard to conditions etc.. http://blackmountainbouldering.blogspot.com/ though nothings been posted for a while..

I can't remember where you said you were or would be based for sure (just got up and the coffee hasn't kicked in) but if you're anywhere near San Diego, or LA then you should defo head up to Bishop, the drive at anything from 250 / 350 miles is boring but easy and gas is cheap.. if you're in San Fran, you'll have to go Bishop via Reno or Bakersfield as the Tioga Pass will prolly be shut at this time of year, but even so, you could drive to Bishop in a day..

For the record there's very little quality bouldering near San Diego I've friends who live there and have scoured seemingly endless piles of boulders to no avail - there are areas like Woodside (or whatever its called) that look almost as promising as Hampi from afar, but you'll struggle to find a handful of decent problems.. as a rule the locals tend to climb at Black with occassional forays to Bishop.

Also again if you're in LA / San Diego there's Moab and Moe's in Utah and Red Rocks near Vegas.. from SD its a fairly easy drive up the I-15..

Hope this helps..

[nathan wind]

Forgot to add.. Tram is the most obvious option along with Black Mountain for Palm Springs, though fairly sure it could be out of the question right now due to snow..

[yorkshirewarcry]

Hi Nathan - cheers for that info - all useful.

A few of the locals I have met so far have recommended Mount Woodson - they seem to think it's got some good bouldering?

I'm down in Phoenix at the moment so may check out a couple of spots down here this week sometime.  I'm seriously considering heading up to Priest Draw nr Flagstaff for a day or so, but not sure if it'll be damp up there.  Then back to J-Tree this weekend.

Then the plan is to head to Bishop the weekend after that, and possibly to Vegas another weekend.

I think Tramway and Black Mountain are affected by snow, and pretty cold right now, so I may give them a miss unless I find myself with some spare time towards the end of my trip in early March.

[nathan wind]

No worries!

Having read back what I said earlier I was prolly a little bit disparaging about Woodsun, there's defo stuff to do there and I'm sure you could have fun exploring stuff randomly as there's a lot of boulders.. I guess what I prolly should have said is in comparison to whats on offer elsewhere its pretty poor - especially if Black is accessible.. A couple of friends of mine are based in SD (one of whom is writing the new Black guide) and they weren't that psyched on the area, though its definitely popular with some of the locals as there were plenty of people out on the day I went.. seemed like it was quite old school (if that makes sense), lots of high 5.10 splitter cracks and slabs!

Bishop really is a must if you've never been before.. go once and you'll defo want to go back..

[nathan wind]

as an afterthought, one good thing about Woodsun is you could do a sesh there in the morning, hit the beach in the afternoon then feast on top notch mexican grub in the evening.. so, not too shabby..

[yorkshirewarcry]

Yeah - as you say Woodsun wouldn't be the first choice, but may be OK if I have an afternoon free.

I managed a very short session at Priest Draw, AZ, yesterday and if anyone is ever in that are it comes highly recommended.  Steeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep climbing on pockets, slopers, pinches.  Really unique place in a fantastic setting.  Great for the winter as it catches loads of sun.   

[mrconners]

As far as chuffing goes at Josh you have loads of stuff arond 5:9 to go at, all of which I though were top drawer . 'Sail away' in the lost (or hidden? cant recall which) valley is an ultra classic and pretty steady for the grade, well worth seeking out, you have to ab off the top as I remember, oh and there is a wall in the same area with a shit load of shortish 5:7 to 9's on which are the tits. Loads to go at round the main camp site area as well. I love the place, its fucking amazing. There is a condensed peak rock style best of guide about as well so you dont have to wade through the phone book style old one.

[JK]

To avoid starting a new thread I thought this seemed like a good place to ask - for getting around the bouldering areas at Bishop, Lake Tahoe and Black Mountain in April, is a 4x4 essential, helpful or a waste of money and carbon?

Cheers, JK

[SA Chris]

I would say helpful but not essential. Most dirt roads can be driven in a standard sedan provided you don't hammer it on rutted roads.

Any snow closures will like Tioga will be totally closed and not even a 4x4 will help you.