[shark]

Was at a BMC jumior coaching session led by Dave Binney yesterday and was interested to hear his general training guidelines for capable and aspiring junior (pre-adolescent) climbers.

The junior team classifys intensity in a range of 1-5 with 1 being very easy physically undemanding 2 being CIR type work and level 3 requiring a few shakeouts and 5 being shutdown by Strength End routes or hard Boulder problems.

The guidance for a typical week was 500-1,000 moves.

The recommended split was:

70% of work/moves should be Endurance ( level 2 or 3 intensity) typically continuous climbing at level2 or route laps at level 3. 
20% strength endurance ie hard onsights
10% strength ie hard problems

As a general point it seemed to me that classifying number of moves by (personal) intensity in this way was a good way to structure a training programme and is the way advocated by David Macia (Spanish training guru).
   

[abarro81]

As a general point it seemed to me that classifying number of moves by (personal) intensity in this way was a good way to structure a training programme and is the way advocated by David Macia (Spanish training guru).
   

It seems like a good idea until you try to count moves as you ARC or aerocap... I lose count at about 20. It would work if you did these on circuits of boulders/routes, so you could count circuits instead, but that's often not practical if the wall's busy and you need to switch between different bits of wall as they become free.. Maybe someone needs to make a climbing pedometer or something.

[smellie]

Does that mean that the periodisation training techniques usually advocated are not recommended for Juniors? If not, why not?

[shark]

Does that mean that the periodisation training techniques usually advocated are not recommended for Juniors? If not, why not?

The day was typically for kids under 12 so periodisation would have been a bit over the top.

Sorry - I shouldnt have used the word 'juniors' in the title as that implied it was for older kids