[Omega]

no luck getting info on the low baldstone traverse...

but does anyone have an word on the problems right of beachball at secret garden.  was there in the weekend and its just plain confusing to figure out what goes where.  here's my take (comments welcome):

beachball b8

zaf's problem b10 - this seems to have been mis-marked in the PB guide.  the problem immediately right of beachball involves a long reach from the break to a small positive pocket, just like beachball only easier (say b5)

crack b2? easy crack with multiple sequences

high b4ish thing - next problem is a nice high problem with a good exit move.  from standing it starts by pulling up into a large undercling then on up some nice pinch/sloper moves.

sit start to high b4 - the sit start uses a small slopey crimp for the right hand with a hard pull round the low bulge a good pocket for the left then up into the undercling.....seems harder than beachball maybe b9?

just right of this is another low start which takes the slopey crimp with the left hand, another worse sloper with the right then into a small layaway with the right and up.  i think this might be left hand man v10?  v10 seems a bit generous

then there are a series of pocket problems starting with the arete and moving around the corner.  no idea what these are and no idea if they start on the ground or from the block.

any comments at all?  

:3some:  - is this some sort of spit roast?

[Bubba]

:3some:  - is this some sort of spit roast?

I believe so  :D

[dave]

Zaf's problem is mis-marked in the PBG - its is actually the bulge from the back about 8 ft left of beachball - like you say the bulge right of beachball is easy.

[a dense loner]

was there sat when snow hit. the v10 is left hand of the block, from low break the prob to right is v9. sorry 7c+ n 7c. don't know wot the sloper prob drenched in chalk was but not too hard n not left hand man, which is just right on front face. the b4 from sittin is much easier than b9.

[Omega]

sorry to be dense but...

zaf's problem is left of beachball (about 8ft or so).  next to this is a v9 problem?

as for the b4 sitter, IMHO this is some degree harder than beachball.  but who really cares?  just curious to know where everything goes

[dave]

sorry to be dense but...

zaf's problem is left of beachball (about 8ft or so).  next to this is a v9 problem?

you've all lost me now!

try the old cragx topo, if its still there this is the link:
http://www.cragx.com/articles/issue03/secret/index.htm

[Jim]

I wouldn't say Zafs is 8ft left of beachball, its just next to beachball (maybe 4ft) on the left using the slopey pocket type thing thats next to the crease that runs up the bulge (pinching it I think)

[a dense loner]

if u sit in the middle of the big rock at the end of the buttress LHM is on your left n the v9 is on the right!!! zafs prob v10 goes up the nothings 3foot to left of beachball, 1 foot left of pinch in middle of wall. start in back, come out to slopey lip, left heel toe n stretch up wi left to little divot / pocket over bulge.

[dave]

theres no crease on zafs - as far as i know what i've alwasy been shown (and tried) as zafs is about 8ft left (ok maybe ~6ft) of beachball up almost the blunt nose which forms the left end of the main roof before it gets smaller back to where a B5 is.

I.e. where its shown as number 8 on that cragx topo seems about right to me.

[Johnny Brown]

Quality. Like a slightly more informed version of rocktalk.

OK, here's the 2-11 (that right Dave?)

Just left of beachball is a vertical crack n pocket. Come out from the back, get this as pinch with Right, n grimace up, using a good sloper with left hand.

Zaff's gets this sloper with right hand and left foot heel-toe out towards arete bit. Start in back, obviously :wink: The rib/ arete to left is much easier.

The sit-down just right of the crack, just right of beachball, ain't too bad if cold. Easier than beachball.

Haven't done the s-d just right.

Left-hand man is the arete and wall to the right, arete with left hand. Sept-ce plu. The arete right again is sept-ce. Both start with both hands in big break, pull on then insert heel-toes. Not before. Oh no. :wink:

[dave]

OK, here's the 2-11 (that right Dave?)

10-4 good buddy, eyeball eyeball

The rib/ arete to left is much easier.

this is what i got shown as being zafs. this rib seems about V8 ish, but i didn't do it it was nice.

The sit-down just right of the crack, just right of beachball, ain't too bad if cold. Easier than beachball.

i think i done this, it were like a slap over a buldge, not to bad.

word.

[Scouse D]

word D.you ave done this as have I.

[a dense loner]

i said it was 3 foot left of beachball but nobody listens  :wink:

[Johnny Brown]

that's cos you mumble shite.

Speak the truth, and they listen :wink:

[a dense loner]

no more beta 4u my lad  

[Jim]

i said it was 3 foot left of beachball but nobody listens  :wink:

word, this is the truth as I ave' seen zaff do this, altho he made it look a lot easier than it is

[Big Jim]

no more beta 4u my lad  

It'll be a dark day when Johnny Brown has to seek beta from the likes of you! :wink: