[Bonjoy]

Another Millstone corker from the Farrar stable to report. Climbed yesterday. This is the vertical square cut arete forming the left side of the start of Great West Road (2nd arete left of Green Death if you only know the boulder probs) up its left side to a ledge at about 6 metres.
I’d abseiled and cleaned the line last spring on a wet day (was going to call it Brick Lane), but never got round to trying. Glad to see it go to a good home. It’s really rather good with a steady few moves at the start and then hard tenuous arete work with little for the left hand and a scary barndoor pop for an edge to finish.
Jamie got it on video so you can look forward to some stills, if you’re lucky  . Iain didn’t sound sure on the grade but suggested 8a as a best guess.

[nik at work]

The mighty Farrar ripping it up, oh yeah!

[willackers]

Why keep telling us about these videos that we will never see?!?! Stop teasing us! 

Good work on the send, sounds good......

[SA Chris]

I think the vid / stills ref is a deliberate windup.

Sounds ace. Brick lane would have been a better name. Or the Perfect Angle.

[a dense loner]

yes, i'm quite disappointed in iains lack of imagination this time. its a shit name, really shit

[Doylo]

You got access to the vid dense?

[Stubbs]

Or at least L'angle Parfitt


Looks like a good bit of rock from the phototopo in the guide.

[willackers]

I think the vid / stills ref is a deliberate windup.

Really? 

[dave]

This looks about as badass a line as you're gonna get these days i recon. Awesome stuff from farrar monch. Any chance of finishing up adios amigos for an adrian berry style E10?

[GCW]

Is it the left of the aretes in this photo:  http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=92968

[cofe]

yep, that's the one beast. the youngster is on fire!

[a dense loner]

You got access to the vid dense?

of course, i'm not a savage

[jamesallum]

An excellent show there from a man so rake like and long. I convey my congratulations and swish my Farrar mane hair piece with great pride. 

[clm]

can we break with tradition and petition him about the name? He could have gone 'l'angle plus que plus que parfait' if he was determined to name it all french.

[Johnny Brown]

Repeated this today. Bit of a strange one - after an hour nobody had got anywhere climbing it on the left. Either we missed something crucial or its extremely morpho (Ryan is hardly short). Instead managed to do it more or less straight on, starting and finishing on the left. Unfortunately this is rather contrived as you can climb it on the right with the big shothole running down the right-hand side at about 6c+. Without it was fair bit harder, I thought perhaps 7a+/7b (similar to a big Angle Ben's), but the others thought harder. On the plus side the moves are very good and unlikely, but it is a total eliminate.

Here's nige with the moves:


To get into the initial position you keep your left hand low, palming, and do a foot dyno. To top out you dyno your left foot up again then go out left to the seam, then right hand to top.

[cofe]

So there's 3 potential ways of climbing it? Iain climbs it entirely on the left.

[dave]

classic peak spotting there.

[andy_e]

L'angle Imparfait

[SA Chris]

Nice stills, any vid?

[Bonjoy]

I'll post up some sequence pics from the vid when i get a chance.
The way Iain did it involved getting two shit small edges quite far up and left then running feet up until RF is on pocket/pinchy bit of arete then bouleing for top edge with left.

[Micky Connor]

I'll post up some sequence pics from the vid when i get a chance.
The way Iain did it involved getting two shit small edges quite far up and left then running feet up until RF is on pocket/pinchy bit of arete then bouleing for top edge with left.

Is 'bouleing' a recognised term for a dynamic move with a high barndoor potential?

[Johnny Brown]

running feet up until RF is on pocket/pinchy bit of arete then bouleing for top edge with left

Think I ended up in this same position, but it wasn't much of a boule tbh. Maybe being from the midget demographic does have some advantages...

[Bonjoy]

The boule in question.

[GCW]

That doesn't look barn doory at all.

[a dense loner]

just spoke to iain and he said he climbed it on the left since any other way you can escape into the huge drill hole, to miss this out really would be contrived