[willackers]

Top 3 Boulders, UK
Catapult @ Kyloe, massive dyno that looks impossible, pretty sure my ascent was the 2nd as well.
The Joker @ Stanage, classic tick even if you do go right hand first   (don't be like jerry)
Queen Kong @ Queens, amazing scary highball prow hugging!, probably not 8a but who cares.


Top 3 Blocs abroad
Appartenance @ Buthiers, last day of the trip, one of the best 7c's I have ever done!
La Balance @ Cuvier, classic
Contrôle A @ Buthiers, hardest flash to date and excellent moves on big sloping dishes!

Top Trad
Production Line @ Cambusbarron, good, hard, technical but safe climbing

Top 3 Sport
Magnetic @ Malham, first 8b!, I should have been in font but the weather was shit so doing that made up for it!
The Ashes @ Kilnsey, pure quality, wow!
Revelations @ The Tor, I hate The Tor but Revelations is a true classic, worked the moves then managed it first redpoint attempt, I was over the moon. We only went there because everywhere else in the Peak was wet! Result!

Top 3 Spankings
Pump Up The Power @ The Tor, is this really 7c+?, really?
Hooligan @ The Tor, injured a finger on each hand whilst trying it.
The Shield ss @ Dumby, 7c my arse!

Top new route/prob put up
Glasgow Kiss @ Dumby, harder finish to a hard problem.
Nice and Sleazy @ Dumby, excellent link up, best problem on the block? I think so.
Endurance @ Dumby, 8a route link-up that straightens out the wall.

[Richie Crouch]

Top Three Boulder Problems

Clever Beaver Low Start- Right Wall Traverse

I'm impressed by the esoteric choice and cave love 

[joeisidle]

Top Three Boulder Problems

Clever Beaver Low Start- Right Wall Traverse

I'm impressed by the esoteric choice and cave love 

 'esoteric' Thanks for putting it so politely

[RichK]

Top three boulder probs

Nothing that memorable....

Top three trad

A bit a of a NW trad year hitting some good form in June. Difficult to pick 3 but these are the standouts

King Wad - Looked at this for years, never thought I would/could do it. Great moves on the top arete
Cockblock - well chuffed to o/s. Pretty scared on top wall, failing to get any gear (there's quite a bit) as I was too pumped to stop.
Dinosaur - Annual Main Cliff 5. Perfect weather, dry-ish crux & good company. Mega classic.

The Axe, Sultans of Swing(Tremadog) & Oliver(yes the stoney one) all close behind.

Top three sport routes UK

Little UK sport this year....

Extreme Ways (Dinbren) - totally unexpected flash. Worth seeking out.
Libertango - LPT tidy up
Space Invaders - Cove tidy up.

Top routes abroad (any genre).

Fiesta de los Biceps - Mid December, last route of a long trip. Totally ace.
Bon Viatge, Bruixes - Deffo a fave sport crag.
Memorias de una Sepia, Siurana. An old nemesis in an awesome setting.

Top new route/prob put up
N/A

Top Spanking's

La Corva de La Felicitat, Margalef - not so much a spanking but ran out of light after a good o/s attempt.

Energy Positiva, Bruixes - Spanked on last move more times than I care to remember

Flute of Hope - total meltdown, The Peak bites back! B.O.H looks way easier

 

[Luthor]

By far my best year's climbing to date..

Top three boulder probs, UK
Piss, Higgar Tor
Weedkiller Traverse, Raven Tor
T Crack, Cratcliffe

Top three boulder probs, abroad
L'Oblique, La Roche aux Sabots
Graviton, La Roche aux Sabots
Little Karma, Isatis

Top three sport routes UK
Brachiation Dance, The Cornice (Water-cum-Jolly)
Incapacity Benefit, The Cornice (Water-cum-Jolly)
Rubicon, Rubicon
(big up to Dylan, Dobbin, Ed etc for encouragement and getting me trying harder routes)

Top Spanking's
Vaudou-System, Bas Cuvier - spent too long failing to pull over the top
Marks Roof, Gardoms - get to the high slopers but can move up to finish

[Will Hunt]

Top three boulder probs, UK Patta's Arete (Almscliff), The Virgin Traverse (Almscliff) & Whisky Galore (Brimham)

Top three boulder probs, abroad N/A

Top three fifteen trad routes/soloes UK Commander Energy (Roaches), Wings of Unreason (Roaches), Crazy Diamond (Rylstone), Moss Gill Grooves (Scafell), Botterill's Slab (Scafell), North West Girdle (Almscliff), Trophy Crack (Sron na Ciche), Spantastic (Flodigarry), Cuillin Ridge Traverse, Steppin' Out (Lord's Seat), In the Gallery (Carn Kenidjack), Diocese (Chair Ladder), Innominate Crack (Kern Knotts), The Buttonhook Route (Kern Knotts), The Gypsy (Almscliff)

Top three sport routes UK N/A

Top three routes abroad (any genre) Viejos y puretas (Desplomilandia), Zeppelin (Sector Zeppelin, El Chorro), El Navegador (Arab Steps, El Chorro)

Top three new route/prob put up Where's the Beach? (Spofforth), Dead Heat (Carncliff Top), Harrogate Nights (Lord's Seat)

Top Spanking's Jams to the Slaughter (Earl Seat). The clue is in the name! Poema de roca (Chorro). Went for a retro flash while hungry. Peeled from the last move. Dry heaved while lowering off.

[Barratt]

Top three boulder probs, UK
Early doors, curbar
The prince, stanage
Dog shooter, sheep pen

Top days climbing
Trip to wales, the pass in perfect condition and sheep pen as a venue are both very memorable.
Any time climbing with the lads, taking the piss and having a laugh!

Top Spanking's
Tearing an intercostal on something at raven tor, fucking the shoulder up and being knackered for half the year as a result, pulling hamstring on captain hook/zippys.

[Nibile]

I'll reply with a few changes...
Top probs, ITA - ISLERO; DOLOMITENMANN (for the epic)
Top probs, abroad - AUTOPILOT flash; LA PELLE (iced but unfinished)
Top sport routes ITA - GABRIELLA 7C+ 2nd go; IL SOLE DI ICARO 8A+/B (iced but unfinished)
Top Spanking's - the AMBER epic; the whole Font trip.

[cheque]

Christ, 2010 was a poor year in terms of climbing achievements for me! I just puntered about on trad with little direction or mental application. In my defense it was only my second year climbing, but that's a poor excuse considering my gains in my first year. Largely posting this to shame myself into trying much harder in 2011. Feel free to laugh.

Top three boulder probs, UK Four Pocket Slab- Roaches Lower, Tiger- Burbage South, Thomas- Black Rocks. I went bouldering 3 times last year, all in the last two months. These were the best problems I managed on each day.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK Albion- The Devil's Slide, Golden Slipper- Pavey Ark, Eye of Faith- Gardom's. Hard to narrow the list down as I did so many easy-but-ace trad routes.

Top three new route/prob put up Did a possibly unclimbed (certainly unrecorded) route on the inland crags on Lundy in the drizzle. It was about HS and the crux was brushing the seagrass off between each move.

Top Spankings Almost every 6B+ boulder problem I tried!. Didn't push it at all on trad or do a single sport route. Things will change this year.

[JohnM]

Top three boulder probs, Tetris, Blind Date, The Horn (My worst years bouldering ever!)
Top three boulder probs abroad Didn't really boulder abroad this year.  Did some nice stuff in Hampi but don't know the names.
Top three trad routes/soloes Daves Rides a Shovelhead (Raven's Crag), The Wall of Prey (Fair Head), My Piano (Nesscliffe)
Top three sport routes UK Urgent Action, Grooved Arete and The Bulge all at Kilnsey.
Top three routes abroad (any genre) Rosanna (Ceuse), Herkules (Frankenjura), Transilvania (Margalef)
Top Spanking's The Middle Way (Hampi) - couldn't pull off the ground!

[Fiend]

Top three boulder probs, UK
Spanking The Monkey, Cambusbarron - fantastic and hilarious on/off slab climbing.
Slipstones Thing, Torridon - like a Scottish Satin, but even better and probably harder.
Jawa, Loch Katrine - a good problem but in an even better location, on a stunning conditions day.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
None.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
I forget as there were so many good ones so will fill this in later.


Top three sport routes UK
Confessions Of Faith, Weem - brilliantly intense slab/wall climbing.
Sufferance, Dumby - really great climbing which made it worth putting some redpoint effort in.
Electrodynamics, Strathyre - short but really good steep fun.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Something in Tenerife - not sure which one but there was some ace climbing out there.
Neversleeping Wall, Sicily - 30m of tufa/blob heaven. Amazing.
Wuaca placa, Costa Blanca - one of the harder routes I did and satisfyingly intense.

Top three new route/prob put up
None.

Top Spanking's
The Elephant - went on a perfect crisp sunny day feeling well warmed up, and climbed shitter than shit.
Arco - was rubbish. Punters in crime!
Freakout, Aonach Dubh - fell off one easy move from a rest due to being utterly exhausted, nearly fainted!

[Bonjoy]

I’ve not been getting out as much this year as I normally do, what with the new arrival, but looking back through the diary I’ve had some cracking days when I have been able to. The snowballing early in the year and the super dry conditions on the Cornice made for a memorable year all in all.

Top three boulder probs, UK
Columns – 5 Clouds, Western Eyes – Burbage West, Thumbelina – Ina’s Rock (felt like a route to me but put here to make room on route list)
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Appartenance - Buthiers, Triple Axle - Cassepot, Le Oeuf – Petit Bois
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
White Wand - Stanage, Naked Edge – Simon’s Seat, The Sniveling Shits - Millstone
Top three sport routes UK
Monumental Armblaster, RnP, K3 – All three at Cheedale Cornice
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Didn’t do any
Top three new route/prob put up
The Golden Egg – Clifftop Boulders, Scrapheap Challenge – Harthill Quarry, Embarrassment of Riches (direct start to Crew Pegs Diffs) – High Neb Stanage
Top three spankings
Monsterosity – WCJ Cornice – Fell off slapping jug you clip belay off….and then it rain…and rained…and rained.
Barney Ragin’ Chee Cornice – Gave it away before it had a chance to get me
Big Air – This white boy can’t jump

[Nigel]

At JB’s request:

Top three boulder probs, UK
•   The Crack, Bowden – Brilliant problem, but also the only new problem I can recall doing in the UK this year. Not done much bouldering.
•   Cornelius, Ina’s Rock – Can I have this as a boulder problem? Great stuff.
•   Goosey Goosey Gander – favourite snowball. Kudos to Somebody’s Fool for being a proper man.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
•   Misericorde, Font. One of the best lines in the forest, and therefore the world.
•   Controle Technique, Font.
•   Hypothese, Font. My anti-style (i.e. not mincing) so a nice surprise.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
•   Master’s Edge + Great Arete, Millstone. Obvious. One of those very rare occasions where something happens exactly as you imagined it. Add in fish and chips plus a Pedigree at The Grouse, and does it get any better?
•   Ulysses, Stanage. Meant a lot as its been bubbling away there for over a decade. I’ve always been afraid of it, just seemed that much meatier than other E6’s…
•   Bloodspeed, The Roaches. JB is right I was struggling to pick from quite a few. I chose this as it wasn’t planned, didn’t have chalk on, I didn’t know any sequences, I just fluked my way up it. Felt like Caff for a split second.

Top three sport routes UK
•   Thormen’s Moth, Thor’s Cave – totally unique for The Peak, in that it would even be good on the continent.
•   The Ogre, Cheedale – definitely the best 7c+ JB has ever done.
•   Monumental Armblaster – Easy one, my hardest ever sport route. A special mention to JC for making such a great summer for so many people – shouldn’t we plan a benefit do for this guy? Legend.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
•   Ejector Seat, Majorca (DWS) – amazing route. I am Gresham!
•   Stranger’s In Paradise, Majorca (DWS) – amazing route. I am Klem! No, hang on, I’m Gresham. Shit.
•   Rainbow Bridge Extension, Devon (DWS) – rare for me to go this far South, plus I had an ice cream every day, so counts as abroad. Maybe the best route I did all year? Its got a fucking pirate rope! I am Captain Jack Sparrow!

Top three new route/prob put up
None I think?

Top Spanking's
•   Cartwheel Wall, Burbage South – fell off this soloing in my worst pair of boots (to “save” my good ones). Made a bit of a mess of my ankle, hence giving sport climbing a go. Ankle size meant that boots got “saved” for longer than planned!
•   In The Night Every Cat Is Black, Majorca – I blame the megaphone.
•   Careless Torque – 8 sessions, done start 22 times, still not ticked. Hopefully this won’t still be in this category next year!
•   Given that this doesn’t seem limited to 3 choices, then Beau Geste too, plus every classic Peak 7b+ that I can’t do anymore (take your pick – WSS, Blind Date, Storm, Deliverance, the list goes on), plus Imhotep in Font. Oh, and Duel. Oh and...

[Teaboy]

Its got a fucking pirate rope!

Where on the route is this and what's it for, interested in the route but never heard this beta before? (I'm secretly hoping its a way of avoiding the crux)

[Doylo]

•   Master’s Edge + Great Arete, Millstone. Obvious. One of those very rare occasions where something happens exactly as you imagined it. Add in fish and chips plus a Pedigree at The Grouse, and does it get any better?

A free all night bar and private room at the Spearmint Rhino?

Good year Nigella!

[willackers]

Big Air – This white boy can’t jump

 

[Nigel]

Its got a fucking pirate rope!

Where on the route is this and what's it for, interested in the route but never heard this beta before? (I'm secretly hoping its a way of avoiding the crux)

No it doesn't avoid the crux. It crosses a chasm which allows you link across from the end of the Rainbow Bridge Extension (which adds a 7a-ish pitch plus a couple of others to the usual route) into the Cod Tympani Buttress. Saves a swim.

[Johnny Brown]

Stranger’s In Paradise, Majorca (DWS)

Which one was that?

Good list! Chapeau...

[Adam Lincoln]

Stranger’s In Paradise, Majorca (DWS)

Which one was that?

The one with the hanging tuffa you use to swing across a gap. (Cala Barques)

[Duncan Disorderly]

This is going to be dismal/embarrasing !

Top three boulder probs, UK
Green Traverse - Stanage
Jerrys Arete - RHS
Unnamed 7a+ at Stoney (only in as it's the only thing above 7a I've ever done here).

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Nemesis - Buthiers
Rhum de Fleur - Cuvier
Entire red circuit with popped pully - Cusinaire

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
N/A

Top three sport routes UK
Nerve Ending - Kilnsey
Rubicon - Err Rubicon
Tufa King Hard - Chapel Head Scar

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Can't remember as I only managed warm up routes on my one route climbing trip this year!

Top three new route/prob put up
N/A

Top Spanking's
St Bees - Hobbled due to snapped thing in me knee and did nowt!
Font @ Easter - Warm up day or 2 then POP! pully goes in finger.
Arco - Managed a slew of 6b's and 6b+'s as warmups but failed on everything else.... Arse!
 
Good to write down what I actually did as some of it was pretty good but it dosent disguise the fact that overall it's been a pretty dismal year spent getting injured and recovering from injury, should actually add another category:

Top Injuries
January - Shoulder Muscle tear.
March - Tendon\muscle joining knee to hamstring tear.
April - Finger pully makes loud pop and holding anything is agony for best part of 3 months.

Also made a few training mistakes this year once recovered but I suppose it's good to know these things so i don't make the same mistakes again!

:D

[willackers]

Big Air – This white boy can’t jump

 

I remember egging you on to jump, you were there for ages! 

[dave]

Had been thinking I'd not had a good year, certainly a bit shit in terms of volume, got ill a lot and worryingly picked up a few niggling injuries (is this a sign of age?) but looking back at the headline stats its not all that bad really.

Top three boulder probs, UK

• Tumbleweed, Tor - nice climbing although it did make my knee feel a little queer.
• Impropa Opera, Bowderstone - unexpected family holiday tick. Thanks to Bullit randomly turning up and giving us the spot and beta, I owe you a newkie brown or a fishie on a dishie our pet.
• Spiderman/Gaston prob, Cre$$brook - Blew the finish a couple of times, then split a tip on a sweaty session, glad to get it bagged in the end.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

• Tarzan, Mello - Area classic, bit of a rep for being tricky hence a very satisfying flash (probably aided by not wearing a dress). Why did we leave it till the last day?
• Unita Light, Mello - Fucking awesome. What a great area.
• Yogi, 95.2 - tried to get on this for years but was always damp.

Top three trad routes/solos UK

• Strapadictomy, Froggatt - another random unexpected one. Bit of a team effort, with the gear placing, but cheggers can't be boozers etc. Great route.
• Shortcomings, Skyline - the only other route I can remember leading this year.
• Tryfan North Ridge & Bristly Ridge, Ogwen - does this count? Tremendous morning out on the hill.

Top three sport routes UK
Not even tied on a sport route this year.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None.

Top three new route/prob put up
Can't think of any.

Top Spankings

• Moon Crack, Curbar - pissed the crux first go then flashpumped on the next bit. Excuse being it was too hot/cold/wet/dry, but not having tied on for 18months prior probably had more to do with it.
• Bigger Splash Direct Kneeler, Rubicon - if this is 7b+ then I'll rip my own head off and eat it.
• The Pinch, Cre$$brook - convinced this must only be doable for people who are very short, very tall, very strong or very Welford.

[Hoseyb]

Not Got out much this year due to the arrival of twins, In fact probably only done three routes..

However, snatched little by little, a few hours here and there meant I got up a few new boulder problems and climbed a real V6 at Porth Ysgo.

Top three new route/prob put up
Shed Party V4 Clegir Boulders
Z Boys Arete V4 Clegir Boulders
Maurice Chevalier V3 Suncharm ledge

Top Spanking's
Jammerrock V6 Bus Stop

[Andy B]

• Tarzan, Mello - Area classic, bit of a rep for being tricky hence a very satisfying flash (probably aided by not wearing a dress).

Do I get bonus points for flashing it in a (oh so slinky, figure hugging, red) dress then?

[dave]

Now you mention it I'm sure 8a.nu scorecards do have a 1970s transvestite tickbox.