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[Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+] (Read 8423 times)

Bonjoy

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[Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 03:55:37 pm
Was pleased to complete a project I've been on for a while on Xmas eve.
It's a classic compression prow a la Mossatrosity, Brass Monkeys.
Not super sure on the grade. I spent ages trying it with an over complicated 8a sequence and then figured better beta, plus the start is at the limit of my reach, both make it hard to  grade objectively. Forgive me if it turns out to be 7c.
It's on a roofy block about 100m further along the ridge from the standard Clifftop Boulder. It's on the same block as the Sheep Dip (see new Froggatt guide).
Start on an undercut boss and the left arete below the roof and climb the prow. Side blocks on left are out, this is obvious but thought I'd best mention.
Here's a some pics taken by Jamie Lilleman.








p.s. As per my own suggestion on reporting new stuff. Details: 24-12-10, climbed with Jamie Lilleman, Iain Farrar, Kim Thompson and Dan Ogden.
« Last Edit: December 28, 2010, 04:12:55 pm by Bonjoy, Reason: Kim also out »

uptown

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 :) Nice!

dave

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looks good word.

andy_e

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Quality toe-hook action going on.

Paul B

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Rock sox prevailed?

Tommy

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Nice one Bonjoy. To get there do you drive up the back past Robin Hood's Stride (on your left) then past that working quarry on your left, then head down the hill a little bit? Near to where the shooting happens on the right??

I don't have any new bouldering guides or Froggatt guide so a bit in the dark!

Bonjoy

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Yeah that sounds right Tom. The crag is on fields below the disused quarry, which is mostly used for trial biking rather than shooting these days.

SA Chris

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Nice. Some quality abstract compressionism going on there.

andy_e

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I just thought of something geeky to do with compression. Need to get a life.

Jim

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nice one Jon, saw Kim & Dan the day before and they mentioned something about this.
Has it had a 2nd ascent yet?

Bonjoy

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No, the second ascent is still up for grabs if you're keen Jim.

Rock sox prevailed?
It was useful having rubber on the top, but with the improved beta it wasn't crucial.

Andy B

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Looks really good. Is there any potential for alternative sequences for those of a stumpy armed disposition?

Bonjoy

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I reckon there must be a way. Maybe a jump or a heel round the start boss.

cofe

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I'm pretty keen to try this at some point. Good effort yoot.

Andy B

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Compression, big spans and heels? It doesn't really sound like your cup of tea.

Jim

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question is, is he going to traverse off just below the top?
I am also keen to try this at some point although I think I will have trouble spanning the holds

Bonjoy

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Video. Filmed and sounds added by Dan V - cheers yoot (nice choice, where is it from?).


Bonjoy

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Forgot to mention, on the same day that vid was taken Ned did another new prob on the same block. The Furry Egg 7c+starts as per TGE then flips to both hands on the front and toes on the back then up to a sloping boss and hence the top. The move up off the toehooks looks amazing. Some pics on KSP blog - http://blog.keithsharplesphotography.co.uk/blog/_archives/2011/1/9/4722583.html . I should point out that contrary to Keith's write-up Ned actually did TGE first go that day (after working but kindly not linking on a previous visit when it was still a project), his worn out skin was from repeatedly nearly doing The Ace in the morning.

SA Chris

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Did you thank everyone for spotting you afterwards :)

Bonjoy

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No, but I did thank Kes for his guest appearance at 17 seconds

 

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