[dave]

I also think for the average climber Flatworld is 7c.

For the average climber Flatworld is impossible.

However for the 7c climber, its gotta be easier than shit like terrace, powerband etc.

[Dutch]

Oh, and I'd definitely give my vote for Famous Grouse (stand up) as 7c, and the sit start as worthless.

I agree

[Doylo]

I did Staminahumps climbing Rattle and hump the non eliminate way. 7c+ like this but probably not a true ascent in most peoples eyes

[The Sausage]

But where did you start?

That reminds me... according to the Oracle Arthur Crabclaw III, Staminaband should start on the big flake, not the double pockets. Can this correction go in the new guide?

[Paul B]

Staminahumps seems easier than staminaband to me but then I'd disagree with the PB:BR grades as well.

[The Sausage]

I'd disagree with the PB:BR grades .

That's because you're a short arse 

[Paul B]

if you're going to apply the 'average stature' defense then it applies at both end of the the bell. 

[tomtom]

I think Fish arete at Wimberry needs an upgrade. I found (and still find) this seriously stiff for 6c+. I think it is harder that all the 7as i've climbed. Admittedly it is a little morpho (if you can reach the good hold from the big foothold it may be easier), but i am pretty much average height and build; and the problem suits me reasonably well. Other people i know also really struggle with it. Certainly it isn't soft as has been suggested before.

6c+ is about right for me... but I'm lanky & I can see how it could be a low 7a.. (Top problem though: (my method http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16143.msg281907.html#msg281907 ) and the top outs no path!

I cant see how people think Marks roof LH is less than a 7... seems like a pretty solid 7a to me.. again given my lank its one that plays to my strengths...

[dave]

But where did you start?

That reminds me... according to the Oracle Arthur Crabclaw III, Staminaband should start on the big flake, not the double pockets. Can this correction go in the new guide?

Yeah I think you need to basically be right of those pockets to start. I have one hand on flake, one on a little sharp slot. Apparently it originally started sitting!

Doyle, I recon that staminahumps non-eliminate would be a perfectly legit problem, Similarly an non-eliminate blueband-R&H link is/would be good.

[T_B]

Blind Date 7c?

Captain Hook I think 7b+, might be easier for the tall.

Blind Date is never 7c.

I found Captain Hook hard, but thought that was just me. I wouldn't have argued with 7b+.

[Ru]

StaminaHumps 8a?
Incidentally, what is Nacho's start to Keen Roof going in at?
Good work chaps.

Stamina Humps is currently in at 7c+. Problem with the tor is that there are lots of link ups and traverses in the 7c/7c+/8a range and everyone has different opinions about which ones are which grade.

Nacho's Keen Roof start is in at 8b. Only Nacho has done it though and his thoughts on the grade would be welcome now that he's done lots of other 8bs and some 8b+s.

[jonjon]

I also think for the average climber Flatworld is 7c.

For the average climber Flatworld is impossible.

However for the 7c climber, its gotta be easier than shit like terrace, powerband etc.

Agreed - Flatworld is way easier than Terrace/ PB etc (presumably by etc you mean stuff thats harder, but it would still be a tough tick for a climber with only a few 7b+'s under their belt

[cofe]

I cant see how people think Marks roof LH is less than a 7... seems like a pretty solid 7a to me.. again given my lank its one that plays to my strengths...

I think it's 7a, even if it's maybe a bit soft. I've done plenty of easier 7a's in Font.

[nai]

I've done plenty of easier 7a's in Font.

really? do share.

[205Chris]

Storm definitive 7b+, seen a few wanna be wads not get this very easily or quickly.

I think the Storm comes down to technique. Everyone I know who's done it using a heel reckons it's a soft touch 7b+ or even 7b whereas I've also seen a lot of wads struggling on it / not doing it but they were using a toe instead of the heel.

If people think it's 7b+ using a heel fair enough but I don't think stuff should be graded for whack sequences.

[The Sausage]

Have emailed Nacho. He said "8b... I don't know" for his start to Keen Roof. I seem to remember he felt it was a bit harder, but much better than the original start. It certainly looked like good climbing.

[Richard Sharpe]

Leotard legend??????????????????? 

[Andy B]

Stamina Humps is currently in at 7c+.

Staminahumps (finishing up Rattle and Hump hard way, obviously) was 7c+ in the last guide. This was when it still had a big positive spike to stand on for the (crux) match on the crimps. The spike was snapped off by big Tom a few years ago and it is now significantly harder than when the last guide came out. This is not necessarily an argument for an upgrade, but it is a grade harder than it used to be, whatever that grade was.   

Problem with the tor is that there are lots of link ups and traverses in the 7c/7c+/8a range and everyone has different opinions about which ones are which grade.

As this thread is already demonstrating, everyone has different opinions about the grade of everything everywhere.

Lets get ready to Rumbleweed is 8a.


Is there a little yellow face to show everybody vigorously grinding their own axes?

[Andy B]

Leotard legend??????????????????? 

What does that mean?

[Jim]

here goes:
dick williams:7b
weedkiller: 7b
mossatrosity: 7c
sorm has already been done to death, I very nearly did this many years ago but since then my flexability has gone downhill and I can't get my heel on any more: hard 7b+.
Giza:7b
wss: impossible
marks roof lh: very soft 7a at the very most
fish arete: 7a
captain hook, I found this hard I think: 7b+ (with a steaming pile of shite after it)

[Richard Sharpe]

Well some people Have been  saying leotard is 7c, it feels alot harder to me. 

[cofe]

Well some people Have been  saying leotard is 7c, it feels alot harder to me. 

7c+ is sounding likely for this. will try to get a bit more feedback.

[cofe]

Stamina Humps is currently in at 7c+.

Staminahumps (finishing up Rattle and Hump hard way, obviously) was 7c+ in the last guide. This was when it still had a big positive spike to stand on for the (crux) match on the crimps. The spike was snapped off by big Tom a few years ago and it is now significantly harder than when the last guide came out. This is not necessarily an argument for an upgrade, but it is a grade harder than it used to be, whatever that grade was.   

good point. it snapped off during the time i was working powerhumps hard way and the difference was significant.

[Jim]

also
Fact hunt: easy 7a+?, maybe 7a. Dense?

[cofe]

I've done plenty of easier 7a's in Font.

really? do share.

chasseur du prises
lapin ou canard
action direct
graviton
egoiste
deltaroc
bizarre bizarre

...to name a few. didn't mean to sound like a dick in my post, my point was that not everything in Font is nails either.