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issue: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades (Read 134927 times)

tomtom

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Or just use V-grades instead?? (ducks)  ;)

And this would solve what exactly?

(please note use of the winking smiley and ''ducks" - as in ducks for cover - meaning I was not being serious, shirley)

Dr Lokov

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Mark's roof left down to 6C+
Anything on roaches upper tier up several grades :jaw:
Weedkiller up to 7b
Kudos 7b

Eddies

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Which reminds me. That nice balancy prob imediatley right of Joes Arete on the Roaches Upper Tier is closer to 6c/6c+ than V7 as wrote in the new BMC guide and named as 'Pink Wall Eliminate'

Krank

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hanging arete on the Tetris boulder is never 7B, maybe 6cish

dave

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Jaspersharpe

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Seeing as Kudos Easy Way is as hard (if not much harder) than Kudos Hard Way it would seem logical to at least upgrade the former to parity. Also makes it neat and tidy to just have one grade for whichever way you choose to do the problem.

cofe

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Kudos is just in as one problem now, with mentions of the methods.

dave

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sensible etc.

You guys going to be putting some pinches wall typos in again just for Banks?

cofe

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L1, L6, L13, L8, L17, L1, L14.

tomtom

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L1, L6, L13, L8, L17, L1, L14.
;D

But the start to Millers Tale at 6b+ ? Its the hardest 6 I've ever done...

(but I am weak)

dave

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L1, L6, L13, L8, L17, L1, L14.

That'll do nicely.

Andy B

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L1, L6, L13, L8, L17, L1, L14.

I reckon that was doable up to L17.

cofe

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I'll stick it in then.

the_dom

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My limited perspective, on the basis of the 3 month trip:
  • Mossatrocity: Didn't do this, but it's definitely 7C. Felt harder than The Terrace
  • The Terrace: 7B+/C. I  am tall, and it's my style, so that may count for something.
  • Electrical Storm: Definitely 7B. Probably the hardest 7B I did on my trip
  • Walnut Whip: 7A+. This is soft as sin.
  • Flatworld: 7B+. Didn't do this, but it's easier than The Terrace.
  • Stall: 7A and no more.
  • Jason's Roof at Burbage: Didn't do this, but came very close in about an hour before rain stopped play. I'm tall, but I reckon it's around 7C.
  • T-Crack: definitely worth 7B+, especially if you compare it to Jerry's Traverse
  • Jetpack: Felt soft for 7B

Bonjoy

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My limited perspective, on the basis of the 3 month trip:
    ...
    • Jetpack: Felt soft for 7B
Jetpack was a bit eliminate before the new chipped/broken hold appeared, it's very silly now. It doesn't really make sense to give it the grade for the original sequence. It's better recorded at whatever grade it is as a non-eliminate, with maybe a mention that it used to be harder (and better) before chipping/breakage.[/list]

Andrew B

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Just a few suggestions:

Early doors: 7A (gorilla warfare still 7A).
Gorilla warfare original: 7A+ (feels so much harder than either of the above)
Marks roof left hand: 6C

I think the Jerry's traverse - T crack comparison is an odd one. I've tried both and done all the moves on T crack and next time I try it i'll do it, but find Jerry's really hard. Jerry's is a pure power problem and if, like me, you rely on other things to get up stuff it feels desparate! Although I haven't done either so what do I know.

Doylo

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I think Bens Roof is defo harder than Powerband, 7c+ and 7c. I think Jasons is 7c too

Adam Lincoln

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I've never done Powerband, but find Ben's Roof and Pump up the power fine. Horses for courses.

JamieG

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I think Fish arete at Wimberry needs an upgrade. I found (and still find) this seriously stiff for 6c+. I think it is harder that all the 7as i've climbed. Admittedly it is a little morpho (if you can reach the good hold from the big foothold it may be easier), but i am pretty much average height and build; and the problem suits me reasonably well. Other people i know also really struggle with it. Certainly it isn't soft as has been suggested before.

Dolly

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I think Bens Roof is defo harder than Powerband, 7c+ and 7c.
Agree - there are 2 moves I can't do on Ben's Roof so its got to be harder than PB

jonjon

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My upgrading / grades staying the same post.

Mossatrocity I thought is a nice gift at easy 7c, wouldn't argue if it got 7b+. Dick Williams was a gift at 7b+ if you start strictly both hands on the ledge, i've seen a few ascents starting with a hand or foot up, effectively missing out that first hard move, and certainly giving it the 7b effect.

I also think for the average climber Flatworld is 7c.

Blind Date 7c?

Captain Hook I think 7b+, might be easier for the tall.
Storm definitive 7b+, seen a few wanna be wads not get this very easily or quickly.



The Sausage

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Sole Power 7b+?

StaminaHumps 8a?

Incidentally, what is Nacho's start to Keen Roof going in at?

Good work chaps.

The Sausage

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Oh, and I'd definitely give my vote for Famous Grouse (stand up) as 7c, and the sit start as worthless. It should be noted, I've done neither of them.

Bonjoy

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I'd agree with el sausage re Sole Power and Stamina Humps and another vote here for BR being a grade above PB.

Serpico

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Seeing as Kudos Easy Way is as hard (if not much harder) than Kudos Hard Way it would seem logical to at least upgrade the former to parity.


 

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