[dave k]

Might explain Ru's earlier view that it was 7b+.

I never thought it was 7b+, just not much between it and Tetris.

Sorry Ru. I mis-remembered the following

"For me it felt easier than tetris (ie, 7c/V9 ish), as you avoid the cut loose swinging round the corner. Certainly it's stacks easier than the inertia reel trav (low V12/8a+, perhaps even just 8a)."

I guess in the end I have simply found a problem that suits me.

I think discussion on a forum like this is the best way to come to a better consensus on grades.

[Ru]

Sorry Ru. I mis-remembered the following

"For me it felt easier than tetris (ie, 7c/V9 ish), as you avoid the cut loose swinging round the corner. Certainly it's stacks easier than the inertia reel trav (low V12/8a+, perhaps even just 8a)."

Yeah, I did Tetris a daft way originally with a cut loose from a high toe hook, which I thought was pretty hard. I also used to err on the side of the downgrade, but I've chilled on that front a bit since then...

[205Chris]

Undercut dyno is no way 7b. Its easier than buckstone. Maybe 7a+ at an absolute max.

That's the problem with grading dynos. It's the opposite for me in that I find the Buckstone way easier than the undercut dyno.

For what it's worth I think the Undercut dyno is definitely harder than the other 7a dynos in the peak like Crash 'n' Gurn, Attitude Inspector and the pocket dyno thing on the trackside boulder.

[Drew]

That's the problem with grading dynos. It's the opposite for me in that I find the Buckstone way easier than the undercut dyno.

For what it's worth I think the Undercut dyno is definitely harder than the other 7a dynos in the peak like Crash 'n' Gurn, Attitude Inspector and the pocket dyno thing on the trackside boulder.

I find the undercut dyno to be exactly the same as the other mentioned, except the Buckstone which I still can't do! As you say... that's the problem with grading dynos.

[GCW]

Maybe it's just my lanky legs then, but I thought the Undercut Dyno was pretty hard for the grade- much harder than any of the Stoney 7a leaps, or indeed any 7a leaps in Bleau   

[r-man]

I spent half an hour on the undercut dyno and failed. By comparison I find the Buckstone dyno quite easy. Perhaps I was having a bad day, but I've never failed on any other peak 7a dynos. My vote is for an upgrade.

If we are looking at bleau comparisons, Vin Rouge is an undercut to jug dyno, and at 7a+ it's at least two grades easer than the roaches dyno.

[Paul B]

are we really discussing the grades of dyno's?

Binary would work better.

[Andy B]

Have you repeated Higginsons since the key hold breakage (the one under the roof is now about 1/3 of the size? It's still climbable, but a fair bit harder.

Yes, I did it in November. 

[Bonjoy]

The left hand chicken head at on Ten Inch Zombies at eatswood has snapped off seems a lot harder now, didn't do it so can't suggest a grade.  Thought i'd mention it as it seems to be a pretty recent change and could effect the guide.

This got a few re-ascents yesterday. I’d guess at it being a grade harder than it was, so now soft 7a+ rather than soft 7a. For my money the new sequence is more pleasant than the original, with tik-takking on sloper crimps instead of yarding on a sharp chicken’s beak.

[Nan]

All dynos should get 7b didnt think there much difference between undercut, buckstone, vin rouge, or smash.

[Ru]

This got a few re-ascents yesterday. I’d guess at it being a grade harder than it was, so now soft 7a+ rather than soft 7a. For my money the new sequence is more pleasant than the original, with tik-takking on sloper crimps instead of yarding on a sharp chicken’s beak.

I'm glad it still goes at a similar grade - I always liked that problem.

[Falling Down]

I'm really looking forward to this new guide - sounds like there'll be plenty of new spots to visit...

[benpritch]

just a thought but does anybody else agree the left hand hold on the joker seems to be getting better and better. not good enough that i can do it like but it is certainly less conditions dependent and seems highly crimpable without careful slopey finger arrangement.

[Nigel]

just a thought but does anybody else agree the left hand hold on the joker seems to be getting better and better.

Yes.

Anecdotally as its based on years old recollections, but it seems much more positive. Obviously this could be due to many things (maybe my fingers feel stronger?) but I would be prepared to stand up and say it feels much more positive than it used to. This despite the fact I have never done it and only ever pulled on a couple of times, but I have been going to Stanage for many years and usually have a fondle of the holds from the block. Like I say, I can't demonstrate it, but that is my opinion.

[Paul B]

just a thought but does anybody else agree the left hand hold on the joker seems to be getting better and better. not good enough that i can do it like but it is certainly less conditions dependent and seems highly crimpable without careful slopey finger arrangement.

I felt this last Friday and I'm certain its improved significantly where your left hand index finger (mine at least) rests. I couldn't pull on given my left hamstring (ish) is absolutely ruined but this has got to have made things easier.

[fatdoc]

If Froggy Dick is 7b then Undercut Dyno is at least a grade easier, so I'd say middlin to hard 7a.

i agree

[sjw]

Is there a rough idea of when this guide may be in print? I'm torn between dishing out for the current one or continuing to try the same three problems every time I visit the Peak until the new one comes out.

[cofe]

We'll be at print in the next two weeks, with the book out about 9-10 weeks after that.

[Drew]

I'm torn between dishing out for the current one...

I'm impressed anyone still has any in stock!

As Cofe has just said (I may've read between the lines a little), just wait and get the new one (with new improved grades).

[sjw]

Nice one. that was the answer I was hoping for, thanks.

[BID]

Not worth starting a new thread so sticking it here.
I did Seranata start today at Stanage left and I'm fairly sure it's not 5+ without frenching it. It's my kind of move and it felt more akin to The Tiger in so extra reach/height may make it more amenable.
I realise it's a nothing problem out of the popular areas.

[Bonjoy]

I agree. I've done easier 6Bs

[lagerstarfish]

so, The Sheep is going to get 7A in the next guide, yeah?