[Ru]

Is it the brushed wall on the right of this photo?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=152998

[Bonjoy]

I'd tell you but I can't access UKC pics at work

[a dense loner]

thats the smallest photo i've ever seen, i can't make out anything. i don't read ukc so i'm not a member maybe this affects the pic.
this leads us to the flip side of the coin in which we're operating at the moment iain will probably make an attempt to kill me for saying he had a vid. he like some others climbs purely for pleasure, and to feel his body, and has no interest at all whether others see the vid or know about the prob. however i've seen the vid and it looks bloody good, probably up there with the best short films i've ever seen

[SA Chris]

We'll just have to take your word for it.

[T_B]

Is it the brushed wall on the right of this photo?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=152998

I belayed a mate on the E2 to the right of that earlier this year and I can't imagine it's anything else.

[Bonjoy]

Have looked at that pic now (cheers cofe), yes that is the line.

[cofe]

Plenty of scope for Blind Vision E10-style link ups by finishing up Twikker etc.

[dave]

then add a final pitch up David. E13 7c, 5c, 6c?

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

From todays paper...

Digested read: The Bed of Procrustes by Nassim Nicholas Taleb

http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2010/dec/21/bed-of-procrustes-digested-read?INTCMP=SRCH
In case you don't want to waste a click...

Digested read, digested: A publisher who charges £14.99 for 124 pages of trite banality is a publisher who is taking the piss.

[Sloper]

All I can say is f--k me, is this only 8a+?

Love the name by the way, a long time since I've heard it used in an argument.

[Bonjoy]

then add a final pitch up David. E13 7c, 5c, 6c?

Final pitch? What about Parthian and Borg?

[uptown]

Just watched this. Hats off to the Sparra.
Iain described trying this last season when I saw him last, and it sounded nails - I can confirm it looks it too. I agree with Dense for a change, absorbing viewing.
People may prefer yarding on mono's to technical walls, but this looks to be some fine climbing - up there with the best hard grit the Peak has to offer. Iain is a great judge of quality, and if he thought it worthy enough for repeated trips then other locals should accept the challenge too.
 

[dave]

People may prefer yarding on mono's to technical walls

 

[uptown]

People may prefer yarding on mono's to technical walls

 

You can't train for sharing crap undercuts on a Beastmaker can you Dave?

[Stubbs]

I think having stronger fingers would make the move easier n'est-ce pas?  I think if you'd said 'people may prefer climbing overhanging rock on friendly holds' you may have been more on the money 

[a dense loner]

no you can't train that on a beastmaker uptown but he did build a replica on the side of his house. if thats not training specific i don't know what is

[uptown]

I think having stronger fingers would make the move easier n'est-ce pas?  I think if you'd said 'people may prefer climbing overhanging rock on friendly holds' you may have been more on the money 

I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim. That's my point, and Iains too with his naming -
If gems like this are to be enjoyed you need to think of climbing as more than just pulling.
I'll certainly be making the long and lonely trip to Millstone to try this having seen the vid, though I concede most won't. 

[Bonjoy]

....he did build a replica on the side of his house....

The Yeastmaker?

[uptown]

....he did build a replica on the side of his house....

The Yeastmaker?

 

[Stubbs]

I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim.

That isn't what I said, I was pointing out that having the same levels of everything else one possesses (including wizardry) but stronger fingers will make any problem easier.

[dave]

I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim. That's my point, and Iains too with his naming -
If gems like this are to be enjoyed you need to think of climbing as more than just pulling.
I'll certainly be making the long and lonely trip to Millstone to try this having seen the vid, though I concede most won't. 

I was going to reply to this but I need to go and take the battery out of the sanctimony alarm cos I can't hear myself think. 

[Bonjoy]

Here’s some screengrabs from the vid.
Iain was ok with posting these, though he did say to “Tell dense I’ll get Lillemule to finger him as punishment” for starting thread 

[Bonjoy]

[a dense loner]

i didn't want to post it since i know he's private, then i thought fuck it

i also knew jamies fingers would be used in the ensuing threats

[dave]

Looks good, I'll print em out and make a flick-book.