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new hard line at millstone (Read 29945 times)

Ru

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#25 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 21, 2010, 08:47:56 am
Is it the brushed wall on the right of this photo?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=152998

Bonjoy

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#26 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 21, 2010, 09:01:31 am
I'd tell you but I can't access UKC pics at work

a dense loner

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#27 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 21, 2010, 09:02:22 am
thats the smallest photo i've ever seen, i can't make out anything. i don't read ukc so i'm not a member maybe this affects the pic.
this leads us to the flip side of the coin in which we're operating at the moment iain will probably make an attempt to kill me for saying he had a vid. he like some others climbs purely for pleasure, and to feel his body, and has no interest at all whether others see the vid or know about the prob. however i've seen the vid and it looks bloody good, probably up there with the best short films i've ever seen

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#28 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 21, 2010, 09:07:04 am
We'll just have to take your word for it.

T_B

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#29 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 21, 2010, 09:09:23 am
Is it the brushed wall on the right of this photo?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=152998

I belayed a mate on the E2 to the right of that earlier this year and I can't imagine it's anything else.

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#30 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 21, 2010, 09:33:05 am
Have looked at that pic now (cheers cofe), yes that is the line.

cofe

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#31 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 21, 2010, 09:38:40 am
Plenty of scope for Blind Vision E10-style link ups by finishing up Twikker etc.

dave

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#32 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 21, 2010, 09:45:42 am
then add a final pitch up David. E13 7c, 5c, 6c?

Obi-Wan is lost...

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#33 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 21, 2010, 05:55:29 pm
From todays paper...
Quote
Digested read: The Bed of Procrustes by Nassim Nicholas Taleb
http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2010/dec/21/bed-of-procrustes-digested-read?INTCMP=SRCH
In case you don't want to waste a click...
Quote
Digested read, digested: A publisher who charges £14.99 for 124 pages of trite banality is a publisher who is taking the piss.


Sloper

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#34 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 21, 2010, 09:45:12 pm
All I can say is f--k me, is this only 8a+?

Love the name by the way, a long time since I've heard it used in an argument.

Bonjoy

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#35 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 08:26:43 am
then add a final pitch up David. E13 7c, 5c, 6c?
Final pitch? What about Parthian and Borg?

uptown

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#36 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 09:50:11 am
Just watched this. Hats off to the Sparra.
Iain described trying this last season when I saw him last, and it sounded nails - I can confirm it looks it too. I agree with Dense for a change, absorbing viewing.
People may prefer yarding on mono's to technical walls, but this looks to be some fine climbing - up there with the best hard grit the Peak has to offer. Iain is a great judge of quality, and if he thought it worthy enough for repeated trips then other locals should accept the challenge too.
 :beer2:

dave

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#37 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 09:56:30 am
People may prefer yarding on mono's to technical walls

 :-\

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#38 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 10:17:35 am
People may prefer yarding on mono's to technical walls

 :-\

You can't train for sharing crap undercuts on a Beastmaker can you Dave?

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#39 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 10:20:17 am
I think having stronger fingers would make the move easier n'est-ce pas?  I think if you'd said 'people may prefer climbing overhanging rock on friendly holds' you may have been more on the money  :)

a dense loner

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#40 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 10:27:24 am
no you can't train that on a beastmaker uptown but he did build a replica on the side of his house. if thats not training specific i don't know what is ;)

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#41 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 10:30:42 am
I think having stronger fingers would make the move easier n'est-ce pas?  I think if you'd said 'people may prefer climbing overhanging rock on friendly holds' you may have been more on the money  :)

I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim. That's my point, and Iains too with his naming -
If gems like this are to be enjoyed you need to think of climbing as more than just pulling.
I'll certainly be making the long and lonely trip to Millstone to try this having seen the vid, though I concede most won't.  :)

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#42 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 10:31:27 am
....he did build a replica on the side of his house....
The Yeastmaker?

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#43 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 10:32:22 am

Stubbs

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#44 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 10:44:38 am

I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim.

That isn't what I said, I was pointing out that having the same levels of everything else one possesses (including wizardry) but stronger fingers will make any problem easier.

dave

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#45 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 10:54:54 am
I don't think strong fingers alone would help enough with this Tim. That's my point, and Iains too with his naming -
If gems like this are to be enjoyed you need to think of climbing as more than just pulling.
I'll certainly be making the long and lonely trip to Millstone to try this having seen the vid, though I concede most won't.  :)

I was going to reply to this but I need to go and take the battery out of the sanctimony alarm cos I can't hear myself think. 
:o

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#46 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 10:59:44 am
Here’s some screengrabs from the vid.
Iain was ok with posting these, though he did say to “Tell dense I’ll get Lillemule to finger him as punishment” for starting thread  ;D



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#47 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 11:03:08 am

a dense loner

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#48 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 11:05:20 am
i didn't want to post it since i know he's private, then i thought fuck it

i also knew jamies fingers would be used in the ensuing threats

dave

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#49 Re: new hard line at millstone
December 22, 2010, 11:17:14 am
Looks good, I'll print em out and make a flick-book.

 

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