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UKC Simpson statement (Read 101772 times)

Dr Lokov

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#25 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 03:52:24 pm
Anyone remember Andi Peters ?
I belayed Andi Peters on Hubble in November, he RP'd the route first try after only a few hours work. Been training hard in the broom cupboard. He used Ed the duck as a chalk bag.


Sloper

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#26 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 04:16:00 pm
I think the difference is that Scott & Si O'Connor were not a sponsored athletes and Rich Simpson was.

I also think that it's a cynical ploy to avoid admitting that their journalistic standards are so low that they've published stuff in the past without any sort of evidence or checking of sources.

Now there's a thought. . . .

T_B

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#27 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 04:28:35 pm

I also think that it's a cynical ploy to avoid admitting that their journalistic standards are so low that they've published stuff in the past without any sort of evidence or checking of sources.


Easy to say with the benefit of hindsight.

Bonjoy

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#28 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 04:36:38 pm
I for one think UKC have handled this pretty well all things considered, including the aforementioned news piece which draws some sort of line under things, as well as summarising what is actually a fairly newsworthy happening in UK climbing to folks who don't want to trawl through long and rambling threads.

Grubes

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#29 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 06:09:23 pm
This thread is kinda pointless.

As shark said when he locked the last thread:
Quote
If Simpson wants to respond or other evidence comes to light we can unlock it.

Nothing new has been brought to the table for or against.
UKC just confirmed what has happened in a 1 page summary of the events with confirmation from the sponsors so the UKC mob know what's happened.

Until Rich comes out and confirms or deny what happened its pointless discussing it further.

Paul B

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#30 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 06:15:28 pm
This thread is kinda pointless.

Disagree. UKC striking all of his ascents from the (or their) record seems pretty significant to me.

Wagner

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#31 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 06:16:18 pm
Of course it true..
I Belay Dicky on Hubble..

nik at work

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#32 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 07:03:43 pm
I for one think UKC have handled this pretty well all things considered, including the aforementioned news piece which draws some sort of line under things, as well as summarising what is actually a fairly newsworthy happening in UK climbing to folks who don't want to trawl through long and rambling threads.
I agree. Some people seem to have a knee-jerk reaction to pour scorn on everything that UKC do, rather than actually think about whether their criticism has any basis. Have a wad.

Falling Down

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#33 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 07:07:35 pm
I agree.

Norton Sharley

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#34 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 07:28:03 pm
Agreed.

Just because it's on the other channel doesn't mean to say it's not correct or the right thing to do.

petejh

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#35 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 08:11:19 pm
Until Rich comes out and confirms or deny what happened its pointless discussing it further.

Firstly, I only think it's pointless if you don't believe in people receiving credit where credit's due.

Secondly, and more importantly, that isn't the point Jon (chummer) is making. He's saying that guidebook authors deleting ascents based on internet threads is a dangerous precedent to set and raises lots of awkward questions about what rights guidebook writers have to act as judge and jury in matters such as these.
Since I've just spent the best part of the last two weeks looking into this as thoroughly as I could and trying to make a decision about what to do about the forthcoming NW limestone guide, I'd agree with Jon that's it's an important issue which needs to be thought about. When you think about it, it was always going to come down to something like this with Rich.

I had typed a massive reply detailing why I'm convinced that Rich has lied about his claims, based on the information I've collected from the various people I've contacted, but  D.Y.O.R. - it's enough for me to say that I talked and emailed with enough trustworthy people to get a good enough picture to make my decision. If it comes to the point that I need to justify my decisions I can, by detailing the people I talked to and every instance of alleged bullshitting from so many different trustworthy and independent sources that it's impossible for me believe in Rich's integrity anymore. 
There is no comfortable answer on who gets to judge climbing history - I'd give someone a lot of money I don't have if it meant this sour affair never had to happen, if people want to volunteer to write the guidebook for me I'll happily let them but ultimately someone has to make the awkward decisions or no book gets published (I guess you could claim nothing has to be done by guide writers but that to me seems to be missing a massive point of guidebooks ie recording who did what significant). I'm also aware of the fact that this leaves me open to scrutiny from people with their own motives. Perhaps the next time I claim a new winter route (hopefully quite soon) I'll be put under the spotlight (hopefully not quite soon) - I once top-rope rehearsed a winter route on Clogwyn Du so I guess that means you could use it as a reason to doubt me next time I claim a ground up first ascent ('cause it definitely 'aint going to be an OS ;D)  but those doing the disbelieving should remember that I couldn't prove that I didn't top-rope something, whereas Rich can easily prove he climbed what he claims to have. The key thing to remember throughout all of his stories is  'how would a trustworthy person act in his situation?'.

Quote
I, and I'm sure I am not alone, find the whole thing quite sad (in a depressing way).
Couldn't agree more, the whole saga has left me feeling shit.

Amateur nature of climbing is an interesting one - and I think this matter highlights the ability of climbers to self-police our activity. It's good that no official body had to get involved to officiate and declare a finding on who gets to be awarded an ascent. Jesus, it's lucky he didn't make the Olympics  ::)
« Last Edit: December 16, 2010, 08:28:20 pm by petejh »

alx

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#36 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 16, 2010, 09:30:45 pm
First post here!

Something I have meaning to ask.

Your sponsorship is in essence based upon you performing high profile work.  Is being paid for work that isn't performed considered fraud? 

 :-\

If not, then surely my solo  of Action Direct deserves me at least a replacement of my worn out Miura VS's every now and then...

RASTATA

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#37 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 07:50:23 am
For how long this Simpson saga is taking now? 2 months? And still no single person which would step up and said, yes I belay Rich in AD, LA, H?! Don't know what you think, but for me that means just one thing...Case closed

slackline

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#38 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 07:55:04 am
Theres a reason the previous thread on this got closed..............its not going anywhere other than round in circles.

Jaspersharpe

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#39 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 08:00:33 am
Word.

ghisino

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#40 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 09:02:11 am
Your sponsorship is in essence based upon you performing high profile work.  Is being paid for work that isn't performed considered fraud? 

I've always understood that sponsorship is grossly based on your ability to make them sell more equipement, because people see a pic/vid of you wearing that shoe/harness/tshirt/rope/whatever on your 9c, and they know/think you've climbed a 9c, and/or they think you're really cool, so they unconsciously think that if they buy that  shoe/harness/tshirt/rope/whatever, they will get marginally closer to climbing 9c and/or being as cool as you.
(and in the end, they buy that shoe/harness/tshirt/rope/whatever).

in that perspective, paradoxically, a totally false/inflated achievement that is believed by most as true has more value that a true achievement that's believed by most as false!!!



erm, sam

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#41 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 09:04:51 am
LOG!

Bonjoy

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#42 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 09:50:25 am
Ru, by 'history books'  I mean it as a generalisation for all that is written on climbing ascents whether that be on the internet, in the history sections in guides, or in other publications. Of course it's up the guide writer but I personally don't think it's an irrelevency.

I meant that it was an irrelevancy for most guides as they don't have lists of ascentionists anyway. Clearly it's not an irrelevancy for the few that want to include this information, but then the writers will make a judgement call as they do already.

Quote
There's also his first ascents and the question of whether all of his ascents without evidence will be doubted now when written about.

My point is that there has been lots of fuss about the "historical record" when in actual fact the "record" is just a few trainspotter blokes like me who will do exactly the same thing when writing books and articles as we've always done. Which is to do a bit of googling, a bit of ringing round, then writing whatever we feel like afterwards.
To know what will count as the historical record, look at what represents the historical record of the past. As well as mags and guidebooks there are biographies, films, broader historical texts such as Welsh Rock and of course oral history. Nowadays it includes the forums and the news/articles on various websites.
Yes the creation of any media boils down to an individual making judgement calls and this is entirely the point. It is much easier and infinitely less contentious if such calls can be made from a position of knowledge rather than ignorance. If climbers at large are aware of what is known they can form their own opinions from this, otherwise the entire onus falls on the writer/film maker. In the absence of open discussion, said trainspotter bloke will likely verify any ascent regardless of its veracity. And what if Mr trainspotter, after ‘a bit of googling, a bit of ringing round’ does come across something dodgy? Do you seriously think he’s likely to go out on a limb and be the one to voice what everyone else is busily sweeping under the carpet?
When I read about Joe Brown, Colin Kirkus or whoever, I’d like to think the writing reflects the facts known and opinions help by climbers at the time, not some prettified version put about to keep the peace at the time.
I don’t think it’s helpful for the climbing community to avoid subjects just so we can all keep bobbling along in happy-happy-joy-joy land.
I do think that the discussion specific to RS has run its course. Though locking another topic on the subject seems pointless and counter productive to me. What is worth discussing is how to avoid the same shit happening again and again and….
« Last Edit: December 17, 2010, 10:08:28 am by Bonjoy »

Jim

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#43 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 10:01:02 am
spot on bonners.
nice ren & stimpy reference

slackline

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#44 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 10:22:00 am
nice ren & stimpy reference
:agree: and its just reminded me I've got all Ren & Stimpy series on DVD (and yet to rip them to the PS3).  I've also got two CDs of songs from the series.


shark

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#45 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 10:24:36 am
When I read about Joe Brown, Colin Kirkus or whoever, I’d like to think the writing reflects the facts known and opinions help by climbers at the time, not some prettified version put about to keep the peace at the time.

Dream on.

As an example of myths in the making I thought the following was gold dust:

Quote
by - Al Evans  on - 10 Dec 2010
In reply to Monk: I used to be able to do three one arm pull-ups with either hand (it's actually not difficult if you train for them) but then along came Steve Bancroft who could do one arm pull ups on a single finger, as I remember , any finger!

This had me evaluating Bancroft in a different light then...

Quote
by - steve webster  on - 10 Dec 2010  In reply to Al Evans:
although this has nothing to do with this thread.steve could not do one finger pull ups,he could barely manage a one armer.he was one of the climbers weakest stregth wise when he lived in leeds.
  :lol:

Another example was the chockstone on Right Eliminate. Everyone banged on about the historical importance and it turned out Joe Brown hadn't placed but it was added later in the 70's.



nik at work

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#46 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 10:28:13 am
I continue to agree with Bonjoy. He's smart as eggs that chap.

Jaspersharpe

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#47 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 10:37:49 am
I do think that the discussion specific to RS has run its course. Though locking another topic on the subject seems pointless and counter productive to me. What is worth discussing is how to avoid the same shit happening again and again and….

shark is right, bullshit and climbing have always gone hand in hand and every generation has it's dodgy characters. However I also agree with Bonjoy that the above is worth discussing. Why does it seem to be so easy for bullshitters to prosper and what can be done about it? I have absolutely no idea what the answer is though.

Bonjoy

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#48 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 10:39:57 am
Fair point Shark, I did only say ‘I’d like to think’. Anyway, regardless of the past, my point remains, the less turd polishing that goes into literature the better.

slackline

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#49 Re: UKC Simpson statement
December 17, 2010, 10:47:25 am
shark is right, bullshit and climbing have always gone hand in hand and every generation has it's dodgy characters. However I also agree with Bonjoy that the above is worth discussing. Why does it seem to be so easy for bullshitters to prosper and what can be done about it? I have absolutely no idea what the answer is though.

Harry Frankfurt : On Bullshit (I've got a book verison of this and its a load of crap a very good read).

Its an attempt to define what bullshit is and its application.

There is this excellent paragraph on truth/lying/bullshit...

Quote from: Harry Frankfurt
It is impossible for someone to lie unless he thinks he knows the truth. Producing bullshit requires no such conviction. A person who lies is thereby responding to the truth, and he is to that extent respectful of it. When an honest man speaks, he says only what he believes to be true; and for the liar, it is correspondingly indispensable that he considers his statements to be false. For the bullshitter, however, all these bets are off: he is neither on the side of the true nor on the side of the false. His eye is not on the facts at all, as the eyes of the honest man and of the liar are, except insofar as they may be pertinent to his interest in getting away with what he says. He does not care whether the things he says describe reality correctly. He just picks them out, or makes them up, to suit his purpose.
« Last Edit: December 17, 2010, 10:52:46 am by slack---line »

 

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