[mikejones]

I've been climbing for around 3 years now, I'm mostly into my bouldering. At the moment I'm in uni in London and get to the wall 2 or 3 times a week. The other day I took two non-climbers to the climbing wall, both of which turned out to have a much higher level of flexibility than me (bit depressing), confirming the fact that I have incredibly low levels of flexibility 
I also lack alot of strength when raising my leg into a high foot/ high heel hook position.

I've been trying the exercises recommended on the beastmaker website which have had a positive affect but don't do anything for my lack of strength.

Could anyone please recommend a series of exercises and stretches and length of time the stretches should be held and amount of times a week it should be done. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Mike.

[slackline]

Yoga (also useful for core)?

[mikejones]

I was thinking of going to yoga in the new year but was wondering if there are some purely climbing specific exercises / stretches that can be done?

[iain_cbr]

I have a similar problem, my hanstring muscles at the back of my thighs are really underused and tight. This means that I don't bend much and I struggle to lift myslef when heel hooking (is that what you meant?) I'm seeing a physio about a few other issues and she recommended just doing hamstring stretches.

Lie on your back, and draw one knee (leg bent) up towards your chest. Hold the knee with both hands, and gently extend the leg as far as you can and hold it for 30 seconds. It's kills and is really horrible but it needs to be done!

Repeat for the other leg.

She also said that in orer for this to have any effect you really need to be doing it 3 times a day and every day.

Hope that helps!

Iain.

[slackline]

You've read the Beastmaker articles linked within, but some other references/links to streching.

With regards to your friends who are more flexible, I wouldn't worry about it, perhaps they have a background of sports when younger which increased flexibility compared to yourself (e.g swimming, gymnastics, trampolining, etc.)

[Sloper]

I'm just incredibly inflexible, years of stetching has never seemed to make the slighteest differnce.

[lagerstarfish]

slighteest differnce.

no amount of stretching will help sort out those chubby fingers, you fat handed twwatt.

 

[mikejones]

Cheers for feedback and the link. I still haven't found anything much on exercises to gain strength to lift leg higher for high heel hooks/ foot placements. Anyone know any good sites or got any info on this?

I found http://usa.moonclimbing.com/flexibility-and-stretching-intro-c-334_348.html which mentions "active stretching" but doesn't give any clear outlines on how to train it. Would be great if anyone could expand on this

Thanks again, Mike.

[slackline]

By the sound of it you don't need anything specific to climbing, just to increase your general flexibility.  To that end general leg stretching exercises would be beneficial.

Can you touch (without bouncing and hold) your toes?  That could be a starting point.

NB -  I know diddly-squat about training.

[shark]

Cheers for feedback and the link. I still haven't found anything much on exercises to gain strength to lift leg higher for high heel hooks/ foot placements.

One I found worked well in the past is an exercise where you pull your leg by the knee with both hands (whilst standing) as high as it will go then release but try and resist the leg going back down again. Do a few reps - and don't forget the other leg. I got it from Performance Climbing. Another one to open your hips out is to sit yoga stylee with the soles of your feet against each other and pull your feet towards you then press your knees towards the floor.

[iain_cbr]

Can you touch (without bouncing and hold) your toes?  That could be a starting point.

I can only just get past my knees!

[Johnny Brown]

I still haven't found anything much on exercises to gain strength to lift leg higher for high heel hooks/ foot placements. Anyone know any good sites or got any info on this?

We do a few exercises at Yoga that I reckon would help for this - in ashtanga its part of this sequence. You basically stand on one leg, hold your big toe and lift your leg up in front for five breaths, then out to the side for five, then back to the front and hold it as high as you can for another five, then swap legs. Core gets a workout too with the balancing involved.

Another one to open your hips out is to sit yoga stylee with the soles of your feet against each other and pull your feet towards you then press your knees towards the floor

This is good too, you can do it in front of the telly, though overall I'd sign up for some yoga.

[tomtom]

Never mind the flexibility... just work on those one armers... who needs feet then eh! 

[nic mullin]

I still haven't found anything much on exercises to gain strength to lift leg higher for high heel hooks/ foot placements. Anyone know any good sites or got any info on this?

I reckon playing hackey sack really helps out with this, plus it's a lot less boring that stretching.

[Johnny Brown]

Better link:

Extended Hand-To-Big-Toe Pose
Utthita Hasta Padangustasana


Step by Step

From Tadasana, bring your left knee toward your belly.

Reach your left arm inside the thigh, cross it over the front ankle, and hold the outside of your left foot. If your hamstrings are tight, hold a strap looped around the left sole.

Firm the front thigh muscles of the standing leg, and press the outer thigh inward.

Inhale and extend the left leg forward. Straighten the knee as much as possible. If you're steady, swing the leg out to the side. Breathe steadily; breathing takes concentration, but it helps you balance.

Hold for 30 seconds, then swing the leg back to center with an inhale, and lower the foot to the floor with an exhale. Repeat on the other side for the same length of time.

Except we do it with two fingers pistol gripping the big toe. The clue's in the name after all...

[mrjonathanr]

Cheers for feedback and the link. I still haven't found anything much on exercises to gain strength to lift leg higher for high heel hooks/ foot placements. Anyone know any good sites or got any info on this?

Yoga classes will incorporate some exercises like this. There'll be loads of Ashtanga classes if you google. I bet the Arch could help point you in the right direction. Since they seem to have a mini - yoga landing thingy someone there must be into it.