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DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraw – Climbing Gear Review
23 October 2013, 5:53 pm

 

CGR takes a quick look at the new Alpha Sport and some other draws from DMM

When we designed the Alpha Clip we were determined to produce the most ‘clip friendly’ biner ever made.

Performance*****

Style*****

Value****

Into the CGR office (well OK my desk at home) came a selection of the latest quickdraws from legendary Welsh company DMM. DMM have been instrumental in UK (and indeed worldwide) in climbing protection innovation and their reputation for lightweight and functional kit is well known.

First off the rack is the new Alpha Sport collection, made up of the Alpha Pro and Alpha Clip carabiners coupled with a burly sewn sling. I remember owning a rack of DMM Mamba quickdraws in the 1990’s and I loved them (I have mates who still have some on their racks they rated them so highly) and the Mamba is still in the product range. You can see a distinct likeness and evolutionary pattern there.

The Alpha Clip – great to use In use I found the Alpha Sport quickdraws just brilliant, the carabiners performed in all sport climbing situations from on sighting to redpointing. They came into there won when working routes. The Alpha Pro was big enough to get my hand into when I needed to pull up and the chunky sling was great when my hands were sweaty. Both the Alpha Pro and the Alpha Clip had a ridged spine, the added friction it offered was welcome in the high to reach clips.

The clipping action of the Alpha Clip was superb and it was reassuring when clipping in strenuous positions, it has a nice ergonomic gate action that just worked every time. No sticking or movement of any kind. I bought a rack of the silver and green ones when they came out but wish I had waited for the newer ones to come out as there are some improvements:

The rubber keeper has been re-designed to make it more durable. The silver and green ones have also been updated to the same spec so there is a choice of colours. My personal favourites are the red ones. They now also come with some more bold DMM logos on the sewn sling so you can look like a real pro when looking down at where you’ve come from on your route!

The straight gate has been improved slightly and has narrow grooves. This has helped with stick clipping – but there are still some issues here. I have been using them with a BetaStick and have been having issues here (Kev would say man up dude and don’t use one, but I’m more mortal than him!) but friends with homemade clips sticks haven’t had any issues.

So they are a great sport climbing quickdraw that will serve you well, are robust and look great. The only issue is the weight, at 104g per quickdraw the weight soon stacks up.

SRP: £20.00 (12cm quickdraw)

The DMM Shadow quickdraw. A nice smooth ride for less friction. Still, if weight is an issue you could try the Shadow quickdraw, these performed almost as well as the Alpha Sport. They had the same sewn sling and the same ergonomic bent gate for clipping. They just weren’t as big. But if you’re looking for a lighter weight, all round set of quickdraws that would be suitable for all climbing situations then these would fit the bill.

SRP: £17.00 (12cm quickdraw)

At the budget end we tested an Aero quickdraw too. Again there were no real performance issues, they performed flawlessly. The sewn sling was narrower but the clipping, bent gate was the now familiar ergonomic design. The weight can be further reduced by having Spectre slings and DMM have also pimped up the colour range to help them look more stylish. A great first set of quickdraws that will perform well.

The DMM Aero quickdraw. A great first quickdraw for the budget concious. SRP: £15.00 (12cm quickdraw)

Stockists



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Kendal Mountain Festival 2013, 14th to 17th November – Climbing Gear News
9 November 2013, 8:05 am

It’s now only one week until the annual Kendal Mountain Festival. CGR will be there to enjoy a great range of films, speakers and partying. So what’s on offer at this year’s event? ‘Kendal’ is the biggest event of its type in the world and it’s the main social event for  outdoor enthusiasts in the UK. As ever there’ll be hundreds of film screenings including high-profile premieres plus loads of speakers and special guests making this a must-do long weekend in the Lake District.

Kendal Mountain Festival is stepping up a gear this year with the involvement of Channel 4, which is collaborating in the creation of a new film competition for ‘short form’ films.

The KMF Short Film Competition aims to encourage and promote creative outdoor filmmaking. Winning films gain both prize money and significant exposure; Channel 4 has revitalised its short-film TV series The Shooting Gallery, and later this year a special edition will feature Kendal Mountain Festival with nominees and winners gaining the potential opportunity for their films to be broadcast.

 

Kendal’s main film programme is now live and can be viewed here, but there will be two big premieres– the Hotaches Productions film Distilled (which, we are reliably informed, involves mountaineer Andy Cave and whisky), and Alastair Lee’s much-anticipated spectacular Antarctica film The Great Last Climb. Which undoubtedly involves whisky too.

Andy Cave stars in the Hotaches film, Distilled.  

The Last Great Climb is the latest offering from film make r Alastair Lee. Speakers at the Festival this year include US alpine hot-shot Kelly Cordes, top British climber James McHaffie  and Everest man-of-the-moment Kenton Cool. Top women climbers are well represented with Shauna Coxsey, Lucy Creamer, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and Spanish big-wall soloist Silvia Vidal. It’s not all about climbing with ultra-athlete Jez Bragg, pro kayaker and National Geographic Adventurer Of The Year Erik Boomer, World Cup-winning downhill biker Steve Peat and ace French skier Vivian Bruchez all on the speaker roster. Plus this year there’s a new Underground Session; calling all cavers…

Kelly Cordes  

James (Caff) McHaffie Lucy Creamer Together with the art exhibitions, literature, the RAB Party plus the Boardman Tasker literary prize, it promises to be another unmissable year.

Dates are 14-17 November – news as it happens at mountainfest.co.uk

You can purchase tickets for the event here.

 

 

 

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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The North Face – the Autumn/Winter 2013 Collection
11 November 2013, 10:56 am

CGR heads to TNF central for a look at the new collection for climbers this season. The North Face continue to impress us here at CGR with their high quality climbing specific clothing and equipment. They continue to invest and innovate in climbing and should be forever in climbers hearts for sponsoring the footpath to The Ben!

This autumn we paid a visit to the UK Headquarters to see the full collection and as always, we’ve cut to the chase and sifted through to highlight the best items for winter climbing.

As ever the premium Summit Series are the mountain items of choice, although we are feature the new Thermoball jacket that we hinted at during the spring. So here are the GCR recommendations for this winter:

Alloy Jacket

The ultimate body mapped ski soft-shell jacket for backcountry excursions. A hybrid soft shell featuring Thermo3D™ physiologic design provides the optimum blend of protection, breathability and temperature regulation. Waterproof HyVent-Alpha™ on the hood and shoulders with critical taped seams, provides critical protection from the elements. Featuring Apex Universal® across the body for maximum breathability and comfort, and Pertex Equilibrium® fabric under the arms for wicking, air permeability and water resistance.

Weight: 672 g

Sizes: S, M, L, XL

SRP: £280

CGR says – although TNF are promoting this jacket as a Ski mountaineering jacket when I looked at it I thought that would easily crossover as a climbing jacket. The cut looked excellent and the mapping looked about right. It uses TNF’s own Apex Softshell and Hyvent waterproof materials to good effect and the taped seams should ensure it it stays reasonably snow proof. The female specific version had more insulation around the critical areas. A good looking winter jacket.

 Alloy Pants

Pinnacle ski mountaineering pant for tough ascents and rapid descents A hybrid soft shell featuring Thermo3D™ body mapping design to provide the optimum blend of protection, breathability and temperature regulation. Stretchy, durable Apex Universal® fabric through the thighs and lower legs give ample breathability. Pertex Equilibrium® fabric through the gusset for wicking, air permeability and water resistance and Waterproof HyVent-Alpha® on the seat and knees keeps you dry. Weight: 740 g

Sizes: 30, 32, 34, 36, 38

SRP: £250

CGR says: these compliment the Alloy jacket and again would easily crossover to winter climbing. Plenty of the now familiar hybrid features like waterproof knees and seat areas. We particularly liked the low profile waistband for harness comfort and the two ways zips on everything. The jury is out whether they will be too warm for UK winter but we’ll let you know as we have a female pair on test.

Both the jacket and pants won an IPSO Award this season.

Radium High-Loft Jacket

Compressible, warm & breathable: versatile mid-layer jacket in exclusive Polartec® fabric The highest warmth-to-weight ratio of any The North Face® high-loft fleece. Featuring exclusive Polartec® low-density knit fabric to minimize weight and maximize compressibility and breathability. An efficient insulation layer for backcountry stop-and-go activities where weight and space are limited. Combined with Polartec Power Stretch Pro® side panels for an active fit.

Weight: 417 g

Sizes: S, M, L, XL

SRP: £140

CGR says: a nice looking fleece jacket that was light, warm and versatile. It is a ‘furry’ style fleece with Power Stretch panels where needed. A very warm looking mid layer that would be great for any mountain day out. You have to remember the lowly fleece is a very versatile item of clothing, robust and easy to wash and very warm. That’s why they should have a place in any climbers wardrobe!

Catalyst Micro Jacket

Lightweight and compressible jacket with water resistant 800-fill ProDown for ski touring A new take on The North Face® technical classic, featuring deeper baffles and slimmer down chambers to increase warmth and decrease weight. Premium quality down with water-resistant treatment improves drying time for versatility in diverse weather conditions. Flash Dry® panels under the arms improve moisture management and enhance comfort.

Weight: 364 g

Sizes: S, M, L, XL  - centerback: 70 cm

SRP: £200

CGR says – we’ve noticed a new trend in water resistant down products so expect to see more coming. TNF haven’t quite beaten everyone to it but the Catalyst should be more accessible and better priced than the Patagonia Encapsil. This was a great looking all purpose down jacket that would be great out on the hill, belays on warmer winter days and in the pub. The Prodown although not as water resistant as Primaloft it should perform better than a normal down jacket and be shower proof if you’re unlucky to be caught half way up a route. We’re predicting this style of jacket with the Prodown down filling will become a classic summer alpine jacket.

Thermoball Jacket and Hoody

Warm, lightweight and fast-drying hooded ThermoBall™ jacket for cold and damp Conditions Designed to provide phenomenal warmth, the revolutionary ThermoBall™ replicates the insulation and compressibility of down but also dries rapidly and keeps warm when wet. Inner and outer fabrics are 100% nylon (bluesign® approved) with a durable water repellent finish.

Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL – centerback: 71 cm

SRP: £170

Down, Primaloft and Thermoball  

CGR says: the long awaited and much heralded Thermoball jackets. The insulating materials does indeed look and feel like down and if you go to the TNF shop in Leeds (or any other for that matter I just live in Leeds) they have some on display and you can feel for yourself. The jacket was über light, I mean really light and great on. It should be ideal for climbing in and belaying on those chilly autumn days. The jacket is not in the Summit Series so not designed to be a full on mountain jacket, but as a midlayer it would be fine even for winter climbing in. There have been some production issues but they were in the shops over the weekend when I went to look.

Stockists.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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The North Face Casimir 32  – Climbing Gear Review
20 November 2013, 5:28 pm



CGR editor Dave Sarkar tests the versatile, mountain sports pack from TNF to see if he can go faster and further. Performance ***

Style****

Value***

The North Face® Men’s Casimir 32 is a light, robust and versatile alpine daypack for go further and faster adventures.

When The North Face Casimir 32 arrived I wondered how it was going to be tested as climbing pack. It didn’t fit the classic shape and had too many added features, but I have found it a very useful pack and the features have also proved useful.

The pack is 32 litres in capacity so plenty big enough for a day out in the mountains, the shape and intended use wasn’t for technical rock climbing so I didn’t test it as such. I could fit a full rack, harness, shoes and chalk bag in. I could also fit in an insulating jacket into the stretch front pouch or the large side pockets. The main stumbling block however was carrying a rope as there was no facility for this.

There are two other packs in the Casamir range with flap style lid in which you could carry a rope on the pack top. These are the Casimir 27 and the Casamir 36 and they are top loading packs with standard lids.

So, I decided to test it as a general mountain pack and it has proved useful for fast paced, on the move mountain activities such as scrambling, hiking, running, mountain biking, alpine glacier sports, snow shoeing and skiing; in fact any activity that doesn’t need a large amount of rope to carry.

A good fit made it great for scrambling. The North Face Casimir 32 has a clam shell type (TNF call it bucket style) opening at the top: you unzip the body of the pack to access the inside. This keeps the pack streamlined against the body. The back was adjustable using The North Face Optifit system; this made the pack very easy to adjust to my back length. There is a video explaining it in more detail here:



It is also worth noting that the pack comes in two sizes S/M and M/L, I tested a M/L which was fine for my 1.75m frame. This gave a great fit and I never felt the pack move once I had fitted it specifically for me. The fit was is further enhanced using the very wide hip belt. This had a large mesh, zipped pocket on the left hand side and a weatherproof, zipped pocket on the right hand side. These were easily big enough to fit hats, gloves, phone, GPS and food bars into.

For my preference I found the hip pockets a little too large and they could have streamlined a little, but then that’s the climber in me. I was, however, able to fit a lot of stuff into them that was accessible in the move. The hip belt could be removed, but this wasn’t easy due to its width. The width meant it had a lot of velcro and it was a devil to get off. In fact I only did it once and never bothered again. It was easier to just clip the hip belt around the back of the pack for climbing.

There are five other pockets on the pack, two large side pockets that were great for putting all sorts in. I could easily fit a hardshell in one and my poles in the other. Poles could be secured using one of the ice axe retaining loops. There was a very large front pocket. This was just an open pouch made from a stretchy material that was very useful for putting extra layers in and it meant that I could access jackets without opening the pack. The pocket had a reinforced patch with two slots so that a rear light could be attached for cycling. There was also a pocket that contained a helmet carry cover. This proved useful because if I had to put a helmet into the pack it would take up a lot of room. It worked by pulling out a mesh panel, stretching it over the helmet and clipping it to two loops on the top of the pack. This worked well and kept the helmet secure, it was neatly hidden inside the front pocket.

The North Face Casimir 32 showing the helmet cover. Enjoying some Lakeland Alpen glow Finally there is a large, zipped internal pocket. It is designed to be used when the front of the lid opens. It worked reasonably well but tended to be floppy with heavy items in it.  I generally want an interior pocket to secure items that are important, namely: wallet, car/house keys and phone. These are items that I’m not going to want during the day but definitely spoil it if they got lost. I didn’t want to stash them in the hip belt pocket and found the inside pocket not secure enough. There is also no key clip, the whole inside pocket was an area that I felt needed further work on it.

There is also a large hydration pouch at the back of the inside, this was plenty big enough for any bladder system you will use. The hose came out of the top and could be secured with a velcro loop inside the pack and further secured with elastic retainers on the shoulder straps. I’m personally not a fan of hydration bladders, but plenty of others are and the system worked really well on The North Face Casimir 32.

The Casimir 32 had a good fit for all mountain activities. The shoulder straps were very comfortable, soft with plenty of mesh for ventilation. The sternum strap worked well and had a built in whistle for emergencies. It was easy to adjust on the shoulder strap and stayed in place.

The pack also had the ability to carry two ice axes with its loops and elastic retaining clips. There were also six reflective loops situated on each side of the body for threading cord through and carrying crampons. Elasticated cord is supplied with the pack, I found that with care it was easier to put them into the front pouch.

In conclusion, The North Face Casimir 32 isn’t a dedicated climbing pack – to be fair it’s not designed as one and there are other packs in the range that would be more suited to technical climbing- but it is a well designed pack that would be great for all other active mountain sports. There are some minor issues with the hip belt fastening and interior pocket but most importantly it is a great carry, it felt secure on my back for tricky descents, hugged me when scrambling and I have found myself using it throughout the season for all my day activities when out on the hill.

SRP £110.00

Stockists.

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Wild Country Guide Pro – Climbing Gear Review
25 November 2013, 4:23 pm

CGR test out the top of the range ‘do it all’ belay device from Wild Country Performance *****

Style****

Value****

The Pro Guide belay plate is a superb choice as the ‘do it all’ belay device for belaying, abseiling and guiding on ropes from 7.7-11mm

Most hardwear companies now have a ‘guide plate’ belay device in their collection and they are a very versatile item to have on your rack. As well as belaying and rapping they can be used, for only a little extra cost, to bring your second up and lock them off (maybe whilst they remove that wire you welded in  and as an ascender (in an emergency situation). They also allow you to escape the system very easily (what do mean you can’t escape the system!) without the rigmarole of prussicks.

The WC Guide pro paid rope out smoothly. The Wild Country Pro Guide fits the bill nicely. It’s well made in aluminium, has a nice chucky feel to it and is light weight. I tried it with a variety of belay situations from double 8.5mm ropes, double 8mm ropes, a single 10mm rope and a single 9.1mm rope. It coped with them all. The stated range is 7.7mm to 11mm ropes. I found 11mm ropes a little too thick to pay out quickly and Kev has a pair of 7.8mm ropes that worked fine, I did find there was a little slippage with the 7.8mm when it was placed under load and used in normal belay mode, but this was to be expected with such thin ropes and it didn’t move at all in guide mode.

The  ridged teeth held the rope light under load and was useful when I needed to lock the Pro Guide off, for instance when used for sport climbing or working a route. They also worked well for abseiling where the Wild Country Pro Guide’s thick aluminium body dissipated the heat effectively. It did, however, get very hot with multiple rapps. Once the device had cooled enough – usually by the time my climbing partner had got to the ab – it was cool enough to use again. Once again the smooth teeth aided friction and helped lock the device off when I needed stop (to look at or clean a hold).

No jumpy rides when abbing with the WC Guide Pro. In guide (sometimes called autoblock) mode the hole for the extra biner (it is important to use a screwgate in this) is at right angles to the plate, this allows the plate to sit neatly against the rock. The release slot was big enough for a carabiner nose to fit in. Interestingly I demonstrated releasing a guide plate under load to a client recently and they were quite shocked at how uncontrollable it could be. You need to be really careful how you release these types of plate and training or practise is essential. The instructions are quite well laid out and you do need to read and practise them before rigging in guide mode.

The WC Guide Pro was great to use in autoblock mode. The Wild Country Pro Guide gets five stars for value as it comes with an HMS carabiner. This is for the same price as just a plate on its own with some manufacturers, so great value really. It works very well and the claim that it is ‘do it all’ belay device is true. I’ve used it all season both recreationally and professionally and I often find myself recommending it to everyone, so praise indeed!

SRP £24 or £30 (includes Synergy Lite Screwgate)

Stockists



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Winter Conditions Report, Ben Nevis 1/12/2013 – Blog
3 December 2013, 4:31 pm

This weekend saw our first foray North for some Scottish winter climbing action. Rich Allen and I headed optimistically to Ben Nevis on not the best forecast but we did manage to get out in the hills on both Saturday and Sunday. Gargoyle Wall, Ben Nevis  

On Saturday we climbed Gargoyle Wall up on the right of Number 3 Gully Buttress. Conditions were ok but not ideal. Other teams climbed Darth Vader and Babylon and there was plenty of snow in the gullies with both Number 2 and Number 3 seeing ascents and descents. Number 4 is good for descents right now too. Unfortunately things warmed up dramatically on Saturday afternoon and the buttresses were well stripped by the time we returned on Sunday so we had a quick blast up Number 3 to stretch the legs and were treated to a superb temperature inversion and sunshine on the tops!

Looking like a return to winter later this week so fingers crossed.

 

Check these links before you head out:

 

• MWIS mountain weather
• SAIS avalanche forecasts
• UKC winter logbooks

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Article – Belay Jackets, a CGR Buyers’ Guide
4 December 2013, 2:45 pm

The author reaping the benefits of a decent belay parka, about to begin a frigid belay stint in the Cairngorms, Scotland. Belay Jackets and Belay Parkas…what are they and who are they for? What makes a good one and why do we need one? Well picture this… You’re three pitches up and lashed to the crag, the wind is howling, impregnating your clothing with damp snowflakes. From above, constant avalanches of spindrift pummel your back, head and shoulders. You’ve been here a while now, your partner is doing battle with the pitch, approaching the second hour as he battles with the technicalities. You’ve been stood still, but rather than being a frozen lump, you’re warm and still reasonably comfortable. Do you want to know how? Then read on…

Belaying in weather like this requires a decent belay parka! Winter climbing involves extended periods of high exertion where your body gets hot, sweaty and damp. This is usually followed by equally long periods where you are stood around in the cold, belaying. Choosing a clothing system to cope with this can be tricky, you don’t want to wear too much whilst climbing because you will overheat, but then when you stop the moisture from your body will cool you down more quickly too, causing you to be cold and uncomfortable during your belaying stint.

So what is the solution?

I’ve tried out many different systems and configurations of clothing for my winter climbing exploits over the years. I now climb in a few thin layers with a weatherproof shell layer over the top. This generally consists of:

• Legs: midweight merino or powerstretch tights, 4 season softshell trousers.
• Top: midweight base layer, another insulation layer such as a powerstretch top, over the top of this I wear a weatherproof and lightly insulated softshell jacket with a big helmet-friendly hood.

I rarely use a hardshell (fully waterproof shell system) for winter climbing, even in Scotland as I’ve found that modern softshells are generally weatherproof enough to combat the dampness, and the breathability and flexibility more than outweigh the cons here. This of course, is a subjective choice as I feel I can cope with the damp in return for the flexibility that softshells offer. However we have other reviewers that like to climb in hardshells – it’s all a matter of choice.

So, this clothing system is what Mark Twight dubbed, in his book Extreme Alpinism, “the lightweight flexible action suit.” It is warm enough for when I’m stood around for short periods, such as map reading, drink stops etc, but flexible and breathable enough that I don’t overheat when I’m climbing. I prefer to set off on a day feeling slightly cold and letting the movement help to warm me up. However, when stood around for longer periods, for example belaying, my “action suit” just isn’t enough. This is where the belay jacket comes in.

What is a belay jacket?

For the purposes of this article I’m going to refer to 2 different types of belay jacket. The lightweight variety, usually a simple jacket or even pullover, which may or may not have a hood and  featuring 60 to 80 grams of synthetic filling. Good examples of products that fall into this bracket are… and more information about these can be found at the end of this article.

The author using a lightweight belay jacket during a brief stop on the North Face of Les Droites, Chamonix, France. The other type is the belay parka, a fully featured and heavier piece which offers more warmth and protection and would usually 100 to 200 grams of synthetic insulation. Again, good examples can be found at the bottom of this article.

A full on belay parka is warm and seals out the elements. The lightweight examples are great for those quicker moving missions where stops are shorter and less frequent whereas the parka is better suited to more technical climbs where longer belay stints are required or you may need to bivi.

Regardless of which one you go for you need to make sure it is sized sufficiently to fit over the top of the “lightweight flexible action suit.” Insulation in these jackets can be from down (fine in cold dry climates) and many companies are making hybrid down/synthetic jackets as well as the new hydrophobic down products, but from my experience of climbing in the UK in winter, a modern synthetic equivalent such as Primaloft, is the best choice as it retains its insulating properties, even when wet. Many manufacturers are now beginning to develop and use their own insulating material and these can perform as well as the major branded versions.

So, for the purposes of this article I am going to concentrate on synthetic belay jackets as these are the ones you would want to choose for UK or damp climbing conditions.

Many companies make and market products, which they call belay jackets and like anything, some are better than others. There are however, certain key things to consider when you are looking for a belay jacket.

Is it big enough to go over the top of your other layers?

The jacket should be big enough to go over the top of everything you are wearing. The hood should comfortably fit over the top of your climbing helmet. This is extremely important so I’d go as far as trying the jacket on in the shop, whilst wearing a helmet! A longer cut at the back to insulate your glutes, is also desirable.

Does the jacket have a 2 way zipper?

Whilst not as important in the lightweight versions, a  proper belay parka needs a 2 way zipper and it’s amazing the number of products that are marketed for this purpose, that don’t have one. A good belay parka benefits from a slightly longer cut, particularly at the back and the addition of a 2 way zipper means that the jacket doesn’t have to be rolled up for you to be able to access the belay loop on your climbing harness. You simply unzip the zip a short way from the bottom.

Does it have big handwarmer pockets?

A good belay parka will hopefully have a pair of deep zippered handwarmer pockets. These should be large enough so that you can fit your gloved hands inside.

Other pockets?

I like my belay parka to have a chest pocket with zippered access, so that I can stash sweets, gels and other necessities in there. This pocket may allow you to stash the jacket inside so you can clip it to your harness whilst climbing but I prefer to use a small stuff sack and many proper belay parkas, already come with these provided.

For me, stretchy mesh internal pockets are a must too as these allow you to store and dry spare gloves etc. Another smaller, zippered internal pocket is handy for stashing valuables but not crucial.

In the lightweight jacket, many of these pockets are not necessary. Although I still like mine to feature zippered handwarmer pockets.

Any other features?

Adjustable cuffs, drawcords on hems and hoods and also hood volume adjusters are a must for me on a parka. As is a neck, that zips high enough to cover my mouth. Glove friendly zippers are a pre requisite, whether it be a lightweight jacket or a parka.

Outer and inner fabrics?

Outer and inner fabrics should ideally be windproof and water resistant, but they don’t need to be waterproof. The fabric should be lightweight and ripstop with a full on belay parka not weighing more than 700 or 800 grams.

How warm?

Warmth is very subjective and depends a lot on the wearer, but generally the more filling the jacket or parka has, the warmer it will be. The warmest belay parkas tend to be filled with 200g of synthetic insulation and should keep most people toasty warm on an average winter’s day in Scotland.

What’s on the market this winter?

We’ve picked some of the top belay jackets and parkas on offer this winter…

Lightweight Jackets Patagonia Nano Puff

Windproof and water-resistant, the full-zip Nano Puff® Jacket is made with warm, incredibly lightweight, highly compressible 60-g PrimaLoft® ONE insulation, and is ideal as an insulating layer or outerwear in cold climates.

Features

• Lightweight ripstop recycled polyester shell fabric has a Deluge® DWR finish
• Lightweight 60-g PrimaLoft® One insulation provides excellent warmth and compressibility
• Brick quilting pattern with horizontal quilt lines on side panels uses durable thread for improved abrasion-resistance
• Center-front zipper has wicking interior storm flap and zipper garage at chin for next-to-skin comfort
• Two zippered handwarmer pockets have clean finished zipper garages; zippered internal chest pocket doubles as a self-stuff sack with a reinforced carabiner clip-in loop
• Drawcord-adjustable drop tail hem seals out wind
• Shell and Lining: 1.4-oz 22-denier 100% recycled polyester with a Deluge® DWR (durable water repellent) finish. Insulation: 60-g PrimaLoft® ONE 100% polyester
• 335 g (11.8 oz)

CGR says: “A cult piece these days. Simple, reliable and compressible warmth. Read our review here. We love it!”

Arc’teryx Nuclei Hoody

Lightweight, compact, trim-fitting belay jacket with a high warmth-to-weight ratio.

Features

• Packs up small for easy travel storage
• Breathable
• Great warmth-to-weight ratio
• Lightweight
• Low profile
• Compressible and packable

Construction

• Micro-seam allowance (1.6 mm) reduces bulk and weight

Patterning

• Anatomical shaping for fit and comfort
• Articulated elbows
• Gusseted underarms

Hood Configuration

• Insulated hood
• Hood fits under helmet

 Zippers & Fly Configuration

• Full front zip with chin guard and wind flap

Hem Configuration

• Adjustable hem drawcord

Pocket Configuration

• Internal stow pocket with attachment point
• Two hand pockets with hidden zippers
• Included mini stuff sack with drawcord closur

   

• Coreloft™ 80 g/m² insulation. Made with highly crimped multi-denier siliconized polyester yarn, this lightweight, breathable, and thermally efficient, 100% polyester staple fibre it is very compressible and has excellent loft retention.
• Coreloft™ 60 g/m² insulation. Made with highly crimped multi-denier siliconized polyester yarn, this lightweight, breathable, and thermally efficient, 100% polyester staple fibre it is very compressible and has excellent loft retention.
• Airetica™—100% nylon, 34 g/m². Tightly constructed, high tenacity, 20×10 denier ripstop nylon with a smooth hand.

CGR says: “Lightweight and compressible, a sexy and simple piece of insulation with all the quality you’d expect from Arc’teryx. Love the internal stuff sack. Jury is still out on the under the helmet hood.”

The North Face Thermoball Jacket

Warm, lightweight and fast-drying hooded ThermoBall™ jacket for cold and damp conditions.

Designed to provide phenomenal warmth, the revolutionary ThermoBall™ replicates the insulation and compressibility of down but also dries rapidly and keeps warm when wet. Inner and outer fabrics are 100% nylon (bluesign® approved) with a durable water repellent finish.

Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL

Fabric: body: 100% recycled nylon 20D, 20D recycled DP taffeta lining.

Insulation: Primaloft® Thermoball™

Features

• Two hand pockets
• Elastic binding at cuff and hood
• Hem cinch-cord system in hand pockets
• Stowable into hand pocket

CGR says: “A nice piece from TNF using innovative insulation. Simple but effective.”

Marmot Isotherm Hoody

Our award-winning Isotherm Hoody is evolution at its best. Ideal for active insulation – necessary for ice climbing or backcountry skiing – the state-of-the-art Polartec® Alpha® insulation cuts the need for impervious fabric faces. Rather, we used an abrasion-resistant Pertex Quantum face and lined the hoody with hyper breathable mesh. Reinforced softshell shoulders, an attached hood and a free-moving fit – it’s a new species of light, warm of breathable.

• Features
  • 20 Denier Pertex Quantum Fabric
  • Softshell Shoulder Reinforcement
  • Polartec® Alpha® Insulation
  • Attached Hood with Peripheral Cord Adjustment
  • Zip Chest Pocket
  • Zip Hand Pockets
  • Elastic Bound Cuffs
  • DriClime® Mesh Lining
  • Elastic Draw Cord Hem – For Adjustability in Serious Weather
  • Angel-Wing Movement™ – Allows Full Range of Motion in Arms so Jacket Doesn’t Ride Up
  CGR says: ” Very light and using innovative Polartec Alpha technology we like this one for fast moving pursuits in the mountains.”

Belay Parkas Patagonia DAS Parka

For full-on alpine conditions, the DAS Parka is our warmest insulated jacket; it’s made with high-loft 120-g PrimaLoft® Synergy insulation throughout, additional PrimaLoft® ONE insulation in core areas, and a lightweight, PU-coated nylon ripstop shell that is durable, highly water-resistant and windproof.

Features

• Lightweight PU-coated nylon ripstop shell is durable, highly water- resistant, windproof and treated with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish
• Insulated throughout with high-loft 120-g PrimaLoft® Synergy and an added layer of heat-trapping 60-g PrimaLoft® ONE in the chest, abdomen and back for core warmth
• Helmet-compatible hood with visor and single-pull drawcord to adjust overall volume and peripheral vision
• Full-length 2-way zipper with internal, insulated wind flap and fold-over zipper garage for chin comfort
• Two zippered, insulated handwarmer pockets; two large interior mesh drop-ins; one exterior zippered chest
• Elasticized cuffs and discreet drawcord at drop-tail hem
• Stuffsack included
• 1.2-oz 20-denier 100% nylon PU-coated ripstop with a Deluge® DWR (durable water repellent) finish. Insulation: 120-g PrimaLoft® Synergy 100% polyester; torso additional layer: 60-g PrimaLoft ONE 100% polyester
• 669 g (23.6 oz)

CGR says: “So far we’re loving this newest incarnation of the Rolls Royce of belay parkas. A cosy haven on damp cold days.”

The North Face Prism Optimus Hoody

For base camp to summit comfort choose The North Face® Men’s Prism Optimus Hoodie for a helmet compatible down insulated mountaineering jacket. Welded box wall baffle construction keeps the heat retaining 700 fill down in place and eliminates cold spots. Primaloft® insulation on the shoulders and arms stays warm when wet or compressed. The adjustable, wired peak hood is baffled for belay snugness aided by the thick draft proof yoke. A polyurethane (PU) kiss coating on the resilient Pertex® Endurance ripstop shell adds all-over moisture resistance. Sleek pre-cinched cuffs and pockets inside and out complete the specification. Burly, baffled and built from athlete input, The North Face® Men’s Prism Optimus Hoodie is a Summit Series™ down insulated mountaineering jacket for cold climbing.

Features 

• 700 goose down fill offers superior warmth yet remains extremely compressible
• PrimaLoft® One synthetic insulation over the shoulders and arms remains warm when wet or compressed
• Welded baffle construction eliminates cold spots and weak points that accompany needle holes
• Updated hood baffle construction increases warmth
• Adjustable hood is fully baffled for reliable warmth and zero cold spots
• Thick, warm draft yoke around neck and shoulders seals cold out and warmth in
• Pre-cinched cuffs are sleek and hold the elements at bay
• Generous zippered chest pocket and handwarmer pockets

CGR says: “A super warm down and Primaloft jacket probably best suited to cold and dry Alpine climates.”

Haglofs Barrier Pro II Belay

A very packable, lightweight wind resistant hooded synthetic insulated jacket.  With the new Quad Fusion+ insulation material made from 100% recycled Polyester, which allows moisture to be drawn away from the body.  The hood has a reinforced peak, and is 3 way adjustable. 2 mid mounted torso pockets, and one chest pocket. Includes a stuff sac.

Features

• PFOS/PFOA free DWR treated surfaces
• Reinforced shoulder and sleeves made from a 30D fabric
• Three-way adjustable hood with reinforced peak
• Hip length cut for more core warmth
• Full length, Two-way front zipper with chin guard
• Two spacious chest pockets
• Two zippered mid mounted torso pockets
• Elasticated cuffs
• Integrated single hand hem draw cord
• Articulated sleeves
• Rear hanging loop
• Stuff sack included

CGR says: “A great jacket from Haglofs. We love the simplicity, cut and warmth to weight ratio. Perfect for Scottish winter climbing.”

Millet Belay Device

Ultra-light, water-repellent and compressible thermal protection with PrimaLoft® Sport insulation. For year-round technical mountaineering in cold conditions.

 Features

• Long jacket with integral hood
• Two-way centre zip
• 3 zipped outside pockets
• 1 inside pocket
• Adjustable hem
• Preformed elbows
• Supplied with compression bag.

Fabrics

• Pertex® Microlight Rip Stop
• Insulation : Primaloft® Sport 100 g

CGR says: “Another great piece of kit from French company, Millet. A perfect package for frigid belays on Scottish mixed routes. Everything you need.”

Most of the above are available in Male and Female options. Look out for reviews of many of these featured jackets over the coming winter.

Why not receive our latest reviews and gear news via your inbox by following out blog: perfect for all gear freaks! Just sign up via the home page link in the sidebar. We never keep an email list (too much hassle – we’re out climbing) and we would never, ever pass your email address on to someone else (no, no, no that would be very unethical).



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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FABRIC TECHNOLOGY LEADER COCONA INC HAS A NEW NAME: 37.5™ – Climbing Gear News
5 December 2013, 6:26 pm

 FABRIC TECHNOLOGY LEADER COCONA INC HAS A NEW NAME: 37.5™

Powering Leading Global Brands with the Ultimate Performance Products Cocona Inc the high performance technology behind many of the world’s leading active apparel brands such as Adidas, Rab and Salomon is being re-launched under the new brand name of 37.5™. The 37.5™ identity highlights the scientifically proven benefits of Cocona’s patented, active-particle technology which enables activewear products – and the consumers who wear them – to out perform others.

The 37.5™ rebranding symbolizes the brands unique ability to capture and release moisture vapour, whilst helping the body to maintain optimal relative humidity and temperature. The 37.5 technology therefore enhances the body’s natural thermo-regulating mechanism to quickly remove moisture from your microclimate and help to maintain comfort. Comfort for example is greatly influenced by the body’s ability to manage temperature and humidity next to the skin, in order to maintain an ideal “37.5 zone” of 37.5% relative humidity and 37.5°c core body temperature. Therefore Apparel constructed from 37.5 technology enhances drying rates, offers sufficient cooling to avoid odour retention, whilst importantly preserving more energy for longer lasting performance.

“The new 37.5™ name clearly expresses the benefits of our technology to the brand partners we work with, and to consumers who are seeking the best in performance activewear and other products. The 37.5 technology is designed to boost the performance of products and the people who wear them. If our bodies expend less energy staying comfortable, more energy can be directed into the activities we love.” CEO Jeff Bowman

Cocona Inc’s rebranding to 37.5™ succeeds in moving the brand forward, in line with its technological advancements adding value, whilst providing a leading performance edge to fibers, fabrics, laminates, insulation, and films used in over 60 top brands worldwide.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Winter Climbing Harnesses – a CGR Buyer’s Guide
13 December 2013, 8:14 am

Winter climbing is a Marmite activity, you either love it or hate it. Personally I come into the love it category. It’s a love affair that I’ve only recently (in the last 7 years and I’ve climbed for nearly 30) rekindled and nurtured and I’ve been rewarded with some of the best climbing memories I have.  The beauty of the surroundings together with the physical and mental demands on my body are the motivational factors that drive me to make the early starts, long drives and late finishes feeling exhausted.

There was an hilarious thread on UKC about the the winter belay here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=276395. I think that sums up winter climbing nicely!

Winter climbing places extra demands on both your body and equipment that rock climbing doesn’t. More so than ever your equipment has to perform because the consequences if they don’t, although rarely fatal, can elongate what is already going to be a long and tiring day. It stands to reason then, when buying kit for winter climbing you should have the best you can afford and then add a bit (you can always go without beer for a week or two to pay that extra). Having good performing kit will pay dividends in the long run, especially in winter.

Richard Allen on Orion Direct, Ben Nevis, just after the Basin. Not a place to scrimp on kit! This CGR Buyer’s Guide focuses on that staple item the harness: a harness is the link between your body and your protection. It also has to carry all that extra gear and be comfortable on extended belays whilst your partner is scratching their way up some desperate Grade VI trying to uncover some elusive gear placement. Here we will go through some important points to consider when looking for a winter specific harness.

Comfort You’ll spend a lot more time in your harness during a winter day out than you would summer rock climbing; winter days out are not uncommonly 8 or even 10 hours and you’ll be doing a variety of other activities like walking or even skiing in it. So with this in mind you should be looking for a nice wide waist belt, most modern harnesses will have a wide back which tapers towards the buckle. Wide leg loops will also pay dividends if your hanging off an ice fall for 2 hours. So make sure you look for this feature; a super thin, narrow sports climbing harness isn’t going to cut it in this environment. Ventilation isn’t so much an issue as you have so much clothing on that losing heat through a harness isn’t as critical as say an alpine day out.

You will spend all day in your harness during winter. Make sure it’s comfortable. Another comfort issue is the dreaded toilet visit (I don’t know what it is with me but as soon as my harness is on I need the loo) – your harness should definitely be easy to unclip the leg loop adjustments (these are at the back of the harness). If the worst should happen and you need to make a toilet visit it should be easy to go whilst still in the harness.

Adjustablility You need to size your harness for both summer rock climbing and pay attention to the extra layers you’ll be wearing during winter. Most harnesses now have a good range of sizes but if you fall into the crossover size category (i.e. you’re a large medium) then err on the larger size. The waistbelt should adjust so that the gear loops sit symmetrically on either side of your waist.

Buckles Buckles should be glove friendly – this is the number one consideration as you don’t want to handling metal with bare skin in sub zero temperatures. You should be able to undo the buckles completely and easily, especially the leg loops.

I’ll give you a personal example of why: I was walking into Coire –an Lochan is the Scottish Cairngorms a few years back to have a look at Hoarmaster with a good friend. Conditions were typically early season Scottish with a huge plume of spindrift blowing off the tops. I put on my crampons and walked steeply up to the base of the route and then tried to get my harness on. I was already feeling blasted by the conditions and was hopping around and teetering trying to get my fixed leg loops over my harness. I suddenly lost my footing and nearly went for a 200m slide but just about steadied myself. Needless to say I went out and bought an adjustable leg loop harness for my next trip.

The incident could have been avoided by putting on the harness before climbing to the base of the route or by undoing the leg loop buckles. I often keep the leg loop buckles fully extended or undone and this makes the job easier.

Many modern harness designs now include self-locking buckles for both the waist and leg loops. This is great for convenience but do be sure you can still undo them easily and remember to re-thread them back the correct way!

Gear Loops and Ice Clipper slots Although 4 gear loops are adequate for any climbing I prefer 5 for winter climbing. I carry a little extra gear for UK winter such as pegs, warthogs, bulldog and ice screws so I feel an extra gear loop spreads the load. I like to keep all my belay stuff on the back loop so I’m not faffing with my gloves on at the belay, it’s important to be efficient at the belay as your partner is likely to be frozen and keen to get going.

Gear loops should be complemented by the addition of ice clipper slots. These should be burly in construction as you will be removing them often to rock climb in the harness. They are very useful for ice climbing and I even use them mixed climbing as I can often access my wires easier off an ice clipper when wearing gloves.

Make sure your gear loops can cope with a UK winter rack. Other considerations to think about could be – packability; if you like to go small and light then a mesh type harness or thin fabric packs smaller. Snow shedding fabrics – some manufacturers include a surface fabric that helps shed snow, this can help drying the harness out when climbing several days on (there’s no point carrying unnecessary water to the route is there) and inclined gear loops for efficient gear selection.

Here’s a selection of harnesses that we at CGR feel are suitable for winter climbing. Some will be reviewed throughout the season so watch out for those in-depth reviews!

DMM Renegade II DMM Renegade II The 2013 Renegade is the third evolution of our premium adjustable leg harness. It now has an improved racking system designed to work with both summer and winter racks, a narrower belay loop for better compatibility with small belay biners and skinny rear elastics that are light whilst still holding their position well.

CGR says – a good looking all rounder that looks like it’s at home on Gogarth or The Ben. We’re looking forward to trying it out on both. It certainly feels lighter and those 7 gear loops will come in handy.

SRP: £70.00

DMM Puma II DMM Puma II This is our top of the range all-round harness for women. The combination of the Renegade’s feature set with the women-specific fit and distinctive styling make this a comfortable and supremely functional harness. Hard redpoints, trad adventures, winter and summer – the Puma can deal with it all.

CGR reviewer Kasia offers her intial thoughts : First impressions of the DMM Puma 2 harness is that it’s comfortable and neat and I love the floating waist pad so that I can easily centralise my rack no matter how many layers I’m wearing – and in winter that tends to be quite a lot for me. I haven’t quite got my head around what I’m going to do with all 7 gear loops (5 on sizes XS and S) but I’m sure I’ll work out what works best for me as time goes by. An opportunity hasn’t arisen as yet to try the ice clipper points– but I’m certainly looking forward to seeing how the harness performs this winter so I can give you an update.

SRP: £70.00

Edelrid Orion Edelrid Orion The Edelrid Orion is a harness designed with comfort in mind. It uses EDELRID’s 3D-Vent technology, a combination of a wide waist-belt and ergonomic leg loops along with air-permeable ventilation holes, which allow for both excellent pressure distribution and breathability. The Orion features 4 gear loops as well as 2 ice screw attachment points for organised, convenient racking and uses a plastic abrasion protector for additional durability at the tie-in loop. The Orion also features adjustable leg loops and a single waist adjustment, which ensures that the tie-in loop and gear loops remain centred at all times.

CGR reviewer Richie Allen offers his first impressions: Though the Orion from Edelrid is billed as an ‘all-rounder’ suited to sport or mountain use its design is slanted more toward the trad and winter climber. Ample racking by way of four asymmetric gear loops and two low profile cunningly concealed ice clipper slots (which it appears they have had to label so you can find them!) should cope with most racks. What sets this harness apart is its ’3D Vent’ technology which shapes the very wide foam padding ergonomically whilst using thin webbing strips to support the foam and allow ventilation. The waist-belt is a similar width to my other harnesses but definitely more ‘shaped’ whereas the leg-loops are significantly wider. This certainly seems to aid comfort when just hanging in the harness and it will be interesting to see how they feel on longer winter routes.

SRP: £85.00

Wild Country Summit Wild Country Summit The new four buckle Summit is a multi tasking monster built to chase big goals, where adjustability, capacity and integrity are the watchwords.

A rare combination of features and performance, including Wild Country’s classic double buckle waist, our new ‘Load Spreading Technology’ laminate belt and Ziplock buckles throughout, makes for an instant classic. Designed for multi-pitch, mountain, Alpine, big wall & guiding.

Features: New ‘Load Spreading Technology’ laminate belt, New  DWC500 durable outer, New 20mm Ziplock double buckle waist, New 16mm Ziplock leg loops, Seven new moulded gear racks, ‘Batwing’ belt shaping, 22kN Belay loop , Haul loop, Two ice racks, Two sizes, SML, REG.

CGR reviwer James Parkinson with his initial thoughts: The Summit is a very comfortable harness for all-round use. Seven gear loops mean that you can carry everything you’d ever want (some might think them overkill!) although if you use the two ice clipper slots you will lose two large gear loops.

The two buckle waist belt means the harness is very adjustable for different seasons and clothing systems although it is not as straight-forward to use as a simple one buckle set up.

All-in-all, the Summit is a well built piece of kit that will work well for all types of climbing in all seasons.

SRP: £70.00

Arcteryx M-270 Arc’teryx M-270 Harness Lightweight, comfortable harness designed for performance-focused ice and mixed climbers.

CGR says: a pretty minimalist harness with just enough gear loops for ice climbing, alpinism or continental mixed and plenty of ice clipper slots too. I’ve not used it on a big Scottish mixed pitch yet but a bandoleer may be required to help carry my rack. It features fixed leg loops but these are built to accommodate clothing and work fine so far for me. At 270g it is super light and packs small! Sexy!

SRP: £90.00

Petzl Hirundos Petzl Hirundos The Hirundos is Petzl’s ultralight, super compact harness designed to maximise climbing performance. Aimed at sport climbers, yet versatile enough for all-round use, the Hirundos features Petzl’s Frame Construction with breathable monofilament mesh evenly distributing pressure, providing support and comfort. Woven mesh on the inside of the harness wicks moisture, while perforated closed-cell foam increases breathability. The ‘DoubleBack’ buckle is pre-threaded and adjusts with a single pull. Rigid, inclined front equipment loops give easy access to gear while flexible rear loops stay out of the way while wearing a backpack. There are two CARITOOL slots for winter use, and the elasticised leg loops have a large range of expansion for correct fit, while staying in place on the thighs. Sizes: S, M, L . Weight 270g (size S).

CGR says: an iconic and established harness from French company Petzl. Seen on the waists of many of the great and good. Just don’t expect to have your normal UK massive rack hanging from it!

SRP: £62.00

Black Diamond Aspect Black Diamond Aspect Ice routes in Canmore. Sport climbs in Rodellar. Splitters at Indian Creek. For those who climb it all, all year long, the Black Diamond Aspect provides four-season performance and comfort with our Dual Core XP Construction™. Dual Core XP features a waistbelt with two thin bands of webbing around the outside of the frame and an EVA foam insert to evenly distribute load without pressure points. The Aspect is designed with 4 Ice Clipper slots to accommodate your tools and screws, plus 4 pressure-molded gear loops and a 12 kN-rated haul loop. We also added pre-threaded Forged Speed Adjust buckles on the waistbelt and leg loops (to accommodate varying layers through the seasons) and Bombshell abrasion patches (which are 20 times more durable than standard nylon).

CGR says – this is great looking all round harness, we love the skinny rear gear loop, which is large and inconspicuos. It looks great for winter mixed as well as sport climbs and we’re looking forward to testing it out on both!

SRP: £75.00



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Arc’teryx Beta LT Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
16 December 2013, 4:08 pm

For me the makings of a good hardshell jacket, is if I barely notice I’m wearing it. So, with the revised Beta LT Jacket, have Arc’teryx achieved just that? Performance*****

Style *****

Value*****

In short, yes, the Beta LT Jacket is such a piece. Lightweight, durable and flexible with a full coverage helmet-friendly hood, it features all the things you need, without any of the superfluous clutter of many other modern hardshells.

I’ve never been a huge fan of hardshells as I generally find even the best to be sweaty, overfeatured and bulky so it’s been nice to find out that the Beta LT is quite the opposite. I’ve used it for about 3 months now in a variety of conditions and for a variety of activities and it’s quickly become my “go to” shell for all of these things. I’ve used it mountaineering in the Alps on windy, snowy days; I’ve used it in heavy downpours whilst fell running in the Lake District and I’ve used it mixed climbing in the most challenging of weathers on Ben Nevis. In all of these activities it has proved its worth.

The author mixed climbing on Gargoyle Wall, Ben Nevis, an environment which suited the Beta LT Jacket perfectly. So why do I like it so much? Well, as mentioned earlier, the beauty of this jacket is its lightweight and simplicity.

The Beta series of garments from Arc’teryx are designed for all round use and from the activities I listed earlier, the LT clearly cuts the mustard here. LT stands for lightweight and at 355g for a 3 layer Gore Tex Pro Shell jacket, few can dispute the fact this jacket is light. It feels light when it’s on too, adding to that “don’t know you’re wearing it” sensation. Yes, there are lighter jackets out there but remember, lightweight is always going to have a trade off in terms of durability, or lack of. And in terms of this, the Beta LT is holding up nicely. I mean, it’s been scuffed on granite chimneys and taken shouldered ice tools on mixed routes, with not so much as a mark.

The “supple yet durable N40p-X face fabric” adds to this durability. It is a softer fabric than I’ve witnessed on a lot of hardshells so seems to have less of the annoying rustle factor. This means it is nicer to wear. It is not stretchy, nor a softshell but the cut of the jacket is so good that it moves with you and doesn’t restrict you.

Arc’teryx market the jacket as being “Trim fit, with e3D patterning, Hip Length” and I can confirm that it fits within all these parameters. The length is great, fitting nicely under a harness without riding up. The trim fit layers perfectly over a baselayer and light midlayer such as the Cerium LT Hoody or equivalent Coreloft piece, but there would be little room for anything else. As this is more of a ‘fast and light’ style product, then it isn’t the shell to go for if you want something you can layer lots of insulation layers underneath, although there is nothing stopping you up-sizing I suppose, though I can guarantee there are other products with a different cut that fulfill this need more readily.

The e3D patterning provides a tailored fit and means that the jacket does not ride up whilst climbing. The sleeve length is perfect and has great articulation. The velcro cinch cuffs are simple and low profile and the work well under or over gloves.

The Beta LT jacket is light, breathable, well cut and has a great hood. It’s as perfect for activities like fell running in foul weather, as it is for mountaineering and alpine climbing. The “WaterTight™ Vislon front zip” works smoothly and seals out the elements effectively, relinquishing the need for a bulky storm flap. All zippers have glove friendly tabs and run very smoothly. The Beta LT features a simple, 2 chest pocket design, both closing neatly via water tight zippers into zipper garages to help keep things dry. I don’t think a jacket needs more pockets than this and in terms of an alpine climbing shell, I think one pocket would actually be enough, although this may not be in keeping with the all round mantra of the Beta garments. The Beta LT also features one small internal pocket, which is a nice feature and one I like to use for my car key, something I always like to keep on my person these days after hearing about a friend of mine who kept his in his pack and dropped the pack from his bivi spot on a winter ascent of the Frendo Spur in Chamonix!

The final thing that makes this jacket so good as far as I’m concerned is the hood. It is so well designed and easy to adjust.  It fits perfectly over a helmet and doesn’t feel like it’s compressing your neck when you put it up. It also works well without as the drawcord adjusters cinch it down and reduce the volume effectively. I can never understand why manufacturers would produce jackets for climbing or mountaineering without a helmet-friendly hood, but I have seen many. Thankfully this is not one of them.

So, to conclude: The Beta LT jacket is a superb lightweight 3 layer hardshell. It is so versatile, simple and comfortable I now use it for all mountain activities, from running to mixed climbing. My current favourite shell and a full five star garment!

NOTE: The Beta LT is also available for women. View it here.

• Price: £350
• Find out more as well as where to buy this jacket, at the Arcteryx website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Marmot Isotherm Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
20 December 2013, 11:27 am





CGR tests the Marmot Isotherm using the new Polartec® Alpha filling.

In outerwear’s natural selection, our award-winning Isotherm Hoody is evolution at its best.

Performance****

Style ****

Value****

Marmot have been busy, earlier in the year we tested the Nabu Jacket using the new Polartec Neoshell® fabric, this time they have devised a breathable insulation jacket using the new Polartec Alpha® fabric.

So, let’s look at the filling: Polartec devised an insulated filling for the US Special Forces which could insulate yet be breathable in cold, active conditions. It provides all the benefits of a traditional synthetic insulation piece, compressible, light and warm when wet and yet is breathable.

The filling works because the fibres are vertical and not horizontally positioned like a traditional insulation jacket. So imagine a waffle like netting with the insulating fibres pushed through the small squares to look like a brush. The fibres then act in a direct wicking action to deliver sweat through to the outer fabric.

The Marmot Isotherm Hoody is a wear all day jacket, you can wear it on the approach and then climb it. You will need another shell for rain, snow or very windy days but it did perform well in all the climbing situations I put it through. In fact it has become my jacket of choice for all mountaineering activities. I often have to put a jacket on and leave it on, when I’m out training for my MIA I’m in a jacket all day so having a jacket that could breathe was really helpful.

Of course, it didn’t keep me dry when sweating. Many people think that modern breathable fabrics act like a string vest and will keep you  dry even when you are charging up the side of a mountain. But that’s not the object because we know that it doesn’t work that way. What we want is for the garment to dry out quickly when we arrive at the route or stop for a while. The Marmot Isotherm Hoody was designed for just that. The inside of the jacket was perforated in all the main sweat areas, the back and under the arms. This allowed the moisture to be wicked away very efficiently.

The perforated lining helped shed moisture on those sweating approaches. The outer fabric is made from Pertex Quantum, a very light fabric with a micro ripstop weave. It was stretchy on the shoulder area to help in climbing situations. The fabric seemed robust enough and I’ve been climbing in it solidly throughout the autumn and it isn’t showing any signs of piling or have any bobbles. The Pertex Quantum was also inside where it wasn’t perforated.

It was reasonable at shedding a shower or light snow but soon began to get wet. You would need to definitely wear a hardshell over the top. I wore it with both a lightweight hardshell and the Marmot Nabu softshell jacket over the top and was fine. It didn’t feel too bulky under a shell and compressed nicely whilst still keeping it’s insulating properties.

The fit was standard belay jacket. It was fine to wear over a midlayer top when on a belay or on a colder day when hiking. It would also be great for skiing or any active wintersport, although it isn’t a full winter parka. It was great for those chilly rock climbing belays when you need an extra layer. It would have been nice to have an integral stow pocket so that it could have been clipped to a harness so you need to have it stowed in a pack, this did affect it’s portability. I must say though that it is very light and it stuffed into any small space in my pack.

The cut was great for climbing in and warm on cold climbing days. The sleeves worked well and the cut meant there was minimal rise when reaching for those high hand holds. The hem was elasticated with piping which gripped around gloves. There were three pockets, two hand warmer pockets that were accessible when wearing a harness and a neat chest pocket that was big enough for a phone, ipod, some energy bars or even a ski pass. The YKK zips all worked well and zip tags worked well enough although they could have been more glove friendly.

One of the real advantages of synthetic insulation garments is their ease of washing. No special treatment or pure soaps needed just pop it into the machine with everything else. No need to add fabric conditioner and a leave it to either dry naturally (with a good shake when dry) or my preference is to pop it in a tumble dryer for 30 mins when it’s almost dry and this really brings back the loft. The Marmot Isotherm washed and dried really well, the loft was good in both situations; this was also true when dried in a drying room.

The hood was adequate for over helmet belays. The hood worked well, it adjusted with a toggle situated at the back. I really liked it when wearing a peaked cap and I never felt cold when it was cinched up. It fitted under a helmet very well and the front of the hood did not interfere with vision. It just about fitted over a helmet for belaying but it didn’t fit well enough for climbing.

All in all the Marmot Isotherm Hoody has been a great all mountain jacket, just as good as a lightweight belay jacket as a full climbing midlayer. Warm on those breezy days and it drys out as quick as a flash.

Marmot offer a full range of sizes from Small to Extra Large and four colours to choose from. There is also a women’s specific version in sizes from XS to XL and more details of that jacket can me found here.

SRP £180.00

Stockists

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Winter Conditions Report, Ben Nevis and Glencoe 22/12/2013 – Blog
24 December 2013, 10:44 am

Second trip up to the West at the weekend for some Sottish winter climbing, we felt pretty optimistic on a seriously wild forecast! Driving rain and a brief thaw on Friday afternoon/night made us question our sanity, but fortunately the optimism paid off. A brief interlude in the spindrift on Lost The Place, Ben Nevis. On Saturday James Foley and I headed up to Ben Nevis. A lot of the snow cover had been stripped low down with the rain but high up things were looking a lot better. We opted to go into Coire Na Ciste and this offered a bit of shelter from the wind. The coire was pretty much deserted. There was evidence of avalanche activity at the bottom of Number 2 and Number 5 Gully. We climbed Lost The Place, V 5 which is a great little mixed route, pretty varied and with a steep top pitch. This proved to be pretty sheltered from the wind until the final chimney which was being pummeled by spindrift. We topped out into a stern wind and quickly descended Number 4 Gully which seemed okay.

Stob Coire Nan Lochan,Glencoe, 22/12/2013 On Saturday night a lot of snow started to fall on a pretty stern wind so we took a tentative walk up into Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glencoe. It was a colder day all round with snow down to the valley floor. The walk in was hard going breaking trail through thigh deep snow high up. The wind was swirling around on the coire floor and it was obvious it would be difficult to find a sheltered route with a safe descent so after a bit of procrastinating we decided to bail out. We checked out the snow near the base of Broad Gully which had a 10 inch layer of windslab covering a deep layer of graupel. Pretty unstable stuff and a lot of care is going to be needed to find safe options at the moment.

This is the last Scottish update of 2013 as I’m off to La Grave for some skiing and climbing on Friday. So Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all our readers. Stay safe out there!

Cheers, Kev.

Check these links before you head out:

• MWIS mountain weather
• SAIS avalanche forecasts
• UKC winter logbooks

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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First Impressions: The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket and Trousers – Climbing Gear Review
20 January 2014, 8:16 am



As part of The North Face Summit Series the Alloy jacket and trouser set is made for action and not just a walk in the park – though I’d certainly be happy to wear it on a lazy Sunday ramble…

Why? Because it’s soft, comfortable and practical all in one. The jacket and trousers use a hybrid material so that you’ve got a waterproof membrane where it counts on your hood and shoulders (jacket) seat and knees (trousers) and the rest is a soft shell fabric to help with the breathability side of things. It’s been designed for ski touring and mountaineering and with the matching trousers seems a great combination. I’m more into my mountaineering and ice climbing then skiing so I’m looking forward to trying this set when taking part in a  little bit of everything.

The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket: read more on the TNF website.



I’ve been sent a size medium and think it’s just about right for me though I’d like to try a small as a comparison at some point. With the medium the cut is great in that the length doesn’t rise when I raise my arms in a climbing movement and the helmet hood fits well over my Edelrid helmet. I was a bit dubious when the product description talked about harness friendly pockets but with a harness I can actually get my hands in comfortably for a quick warm up if need be. The single external chest pocket can take my large Samsung Galaxy S3 phone with room for a bit of emergency food such as a cereal bar. A small pocket on the upper left arm will be fine for a key and/or ski pass. There are no internal pockets and it’s not the most packable jacket at around 700g it squashes down to the size of a small melon. Another feature is the ‘gripzones’ on the shoulders so your pack doesn’t slip – though I’ve not usually found this an issue.

Price: £280

The North Face Women’s Alloy Trousers: read more on the TNF website.



Out of the bag – I love them and find them so comfortable. I’ve still got to put them to the test so fingers crossed my first impressions don’t change. The material means they are soft brushed inside and there is a comfortable stretch to the fabric which helps with movement. Features include adjustable and removable braces which only attach at the front. This threw me to begin with as I’d never seen this before but it works! The front fastens with the standard zip and popper stud, backed up and secured with a belt. The belt as far as I can tell can be removed but I don’t see a need to do this and I like it’s magnetic buckle to help keep it together. There are two hand warmer pockets on the front – nice and fleecy inside, and two side vents on your thighs that open straight to your skin for true ventilation. Kick panels and an internal gaiter finish the trousers off nicely.

Price: £250

I’m off skiing in February and hopefully some ice climbing before and after so looking forward to putting this pair through its paces.

Watch out for a full updated review towards the end of February.

Kasia Baldwin



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Arc’teryx Cerium LT Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
22 January 2014, 11:39 am



Canadian brand Arc’teryx have introduced their first down clothing collection for this winter. Kevin Avery tests their Cerium LT Hoody to see if they really are “down” with their down!

Performance****

Style *****

Value****

Arc’teryx say: “Streamlined, lightweight down hoody filled with 850 white goose down. This backcountry specialist hoody is intended primarily as a mid layer in cool, dry conditions.”

Okay, so first things first. Down jackets can be lovely things to wear, and that is one of the reasons you see so many people wearing them on the local high street! But at times I do wonder quite how practical they are for the UK market? Even Arc’teryx themselves say that the Cerium LT Hoody is primarily for cool, dry conditions, not exactly the sort of weather the UK is famous for! So, how did the Cerium LT get on? Did it cope with the damp of a British winter as well as it did with some cold, dry conditions in the French Alps? And did it cut the mustard on the street?!

The Arc’teryx Cerium LT Hoody is perfect for cold, dry conditions such as this rare day on Ben Nevis. Since the Cerium LT Hoody arrived back in late October, I’ve worn it everyday. I have used it for break duties at work, going to the pub or for a wander round town, between attempts on boulder problems, thrown it on as an outer layer on lunch stops, skied in it in the Alps, used it as a belay jacket on ice and rock climbs and taken it out mixed climbing in Scotland. A lot of different things! So for one, it’s really versatile.

As an everyday piece of insulation in cold, dry weather, it is perfect. But like all down jackets, it doesn’t like rain (despite the DWR finish)! Down loses it’s ability to insulate when wet as it can no longer loft, it clumps together and cannot trap air meaning it can no longer keep you warm.

One of the Cerium LT Hoody’s first outings into some real mountain conditions was a day mixed climbing on Ben Nevis. It was a pretty wild day where the freezing level was fluctuating massively and precipitation was high. In fact a friend of mine commented that I was a little cruel testing down in such conditions! I wore the Cerium over my softshell to keep me warm after the hike into the crag, so I didn’t cool down while I geared up. Soft wet snow flakes and driving wind soon penetrated the outer shell and the down lost it’s ability to loft and in turn lost it’s insulating value. So why am I telling you this? Well firstly it’s important to note what the jacket was intended for (cold and dry conditions) and that these sorts of conditions (damp and wet) do not match that intention. But it was good to try, as kit really needs to be thoroughly and properly tested if an accurate assessment of it’s suitability is to be made!

Whilst the Cerium LT did not come out particularly well on the Ben Nevis test, neither would any other down jacket. I have tested many, including some of the new expensive hydrophobic down garments and in damp/wet environments they are not going to cut the mustard as an insulator in the same way synthetic equivalents like the Atom LT Hoody would. However the Cerium LT Hoody did recover from this very well indeed. And what is apparent, is that the cold, dry conditions it was designed for, it eats for breakfast! And that goes for cold, dry UK conditions (we do get the odd day) as well as those abroad!

After trying the Cerium LT Hoody I have continued to wear it on a daily basis. This helps to test it’s durability, which is proving to be excellent, particularly for such a light (275g) and delicate feeling piece. The DWR finish to the Airetica™ (100% nylon, 34 g/m²) fabric means that a few spots of rain or flakes of snow bead off easily and it also repels dirt and stains very well. It is very wind resistant and also breathable so this helps when wearing it as a midlayer during active pursuits like skiing. As well as Scotland, I also took it to the Alps (where the weather is cold and dry more of the time) and here, it really did excel! I wore it as a midlayer whilst skiing in La Grave, and it sat perfectly under a hardshell, the trim fit and hip length working intuitively with the body and other layers, not bulky and sitting well under a harness.

The Arc’teryx Cerium LT Hoody worked brilliantly as a midlayer in cold weather. I used mine layered under a hard shell when skiing as seen here in La Grave, France. Some times during higher exertion periods,I would stuff it into it’s internal stuff sac (a really nice and effective feature) and it would take up no room whatsoever in my pack due to it’s tiny pack size. If I stopped for lunch, it would loft quickly when unpacked and my size small sample worked equally well over my shell. I used it as light belay jacket on some ice climbs too, and the stuff sac clipped barely noticeable to the rear of my harness.

Arc’teryx Cerium LT Hoody – great as a light belay jacket in cold, dry climates. One of the big positives this jacket has is it’s simplicity. A great cut, simple cuffs, high quality down and 2 zippered handwarmer pockets are all you need (all the zippers on this jacket have been high quality and glove friendly by the way). Oh, and a hood. Which brings me on to my one minor gripe. A hood that is on a jacket that is designed for climbing or mountaineering pursuits, should always in my opinion, be able to work over the top of your helmet. You should not be thinking about taking your helmet off to put your hood up as this might put you in danger! Also if you put a down hood up and then put a helmet on, then you are going to compress the down and limit it’s insulating capacity. The hood works brilliantly without a helmet by the way, but I think on jackets like this they need to work over the top of a helmet too.

Right, one final thing. I’ve been lying to you; this is not 100% a down jacket! Arc’teryx have been clever…as you would expect…and have put the down where it counts! In simple terms:

“Strategic placement of synthetic and down insulation has Coreloft™ synthetic insulation, that retains warmth when wet, placed along the hem, collar, sleeves and underarms— areas prone to contact with moisture. 850 fill European Goose down lines the core and sleeves where warmth is most needed.”

This is a very nice feature and a good idea in my opinion and does make a difference in cold and dry environments when you are moving fast and sweating or cuffs and hems are getting damp through being in contact with snow. Synthetic insulation dries quicker and doesn’t lose its ability to keep you warm when it is wet.

So in conclusion, I love the Cerium LT Hoody in may ways and it feels truly luxurious to wear. It excels as a midlayer in the cool dry conditions for which it is designed and can be worn as a light outer layer/belay piece when you are not stopping for too long and the weather isn’t too damp. The cut, fabric and quality are superb. The downside is that it will not be suitable for damp/wet weather but then, it really is not designed for this. A helmet compatible hood would gain this a 5 star rating in my book.

• Price: £260
• For more information and to buy, visit the Arc’teryx website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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A Double Win For Edelrid… – Climbing Gear News
24 January 2014, 6:21 am

In the build-up to ISPO, the winter sports and outdoor trade show, German climbing brand EDELRID have announced a double win in the ISPO Outdoor awards category, including the coveted GOLD award which is presented to a single product that exemplifies innovation in its field.

This year EDELRID received the GOLD award for its Corbie 8.6mm triple-rated rope, the thinnest climbing rope in the world to be rated for single use. Plus an additional award for the new Beast Lite, a 12-point crampon designed to combine the robust agressiveness of stainless steel with the lightness of an aluminium construction. 2014 marks the third consecutive year that EDELRID have taken home the GOLD award in the Outdoor category at ISPO, winning in 2012 for their Cable Vario Via Ferrata set and again in 2013 for the Snipe dual-diameter rope.



The 8.6mm Corbie (RRP: £190 for 60m) will be available from select retailers from March 2014 and is the thinnest triple-rated rope to be found anywhere in the world. Suitability for use in a single, double or twin configuration is a result of EDELRID’s proprietary braided core construction, which functions as a rope within a rope. The incredible strength of this construction allows even very thin ropes, such as the Corbie, to pass the certification norms for a single rope, whilst also remaining lightweight, in this case 51g/m. The Corbie makes use of the full range of EDELRID finishing processes including Pro Shield where microscopic Teflon particles are bonded to the yarns providing a protective layer with greatly improved load-bearing properties. A Dry Shield hydro and oleo-phobic finish, which resists both dirt and moisture, and extends the working lifespan of the rope; plus Thermo Shield a heat treatment that relaxes and then shrinks the fibres of the rope, ensuring it remains both compact and supple throughout its long working life.



The Beast Lite (RRP: £240), launching Winter 2014, is a 12-point crampon designed for steep ice and mixed climbing, which is certified to EN 893 standards, and is recommended for use on vertical to overhanging mixed terrain where the vertical front points will not make extended contact with rock. The 680g weight is achieved through the use of an aluminium body construction with 3D geometry that makes new designs and shapes possible, which in turn increases the stability of the crampon. This allows for the use of thinner materials without compromising stability resulting in a crampon that is up to 60% lighter than current comparative models designed for ice and mixed climbing. The Beast Lite also features a pair of forged steel front points designed to offer exceptional purchase on ice, which can be easily adjusted from a double to mono point configuration to suit the needs of the climber. Alongside an interchangeable binding system that allows for compatibility with both semi-automatic (B2/C2) and automatic (B3/C3) bindings. The Beast Lite is supplied with anti-balling plates.

• For details of EDELRID products and stockists please visit www.edelrid.de

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Gloves – Climbing Gear Review
24 January 2014, 8:17 am



Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Glove For climbers operating regularly in the mountains in winter, gloves take a lot of abuse. Kev Avery puts the Alpine Alibi II Glove from Seattle based, Outdoor Research, to the test to see if it can be warm, dexterous and tough… Performance****

Style ****

Value****

 

Outdoor Research say: “Designed for altitude, the updated for Fall ’13 Alpine Alibi II™ combines superb dexterity and grip with serious warmth and protection. The gloves are built of weather-resistant stretch soft shell fabric for a secure, comfortable fit, with a waterproof/breathable GORE-TEX® insert to keep hands shielded from the weather and allow perspiration to escape during highly aerobic activity. We’ve added even more PrimaLoft® One insulation to expand the gloves’ comfort range, and the new internal gusset further protects against the elements.”

Testing the dexterity of the Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Glove on a cold day ice climbing in France. I generally demand a lot from a pair of gloves. I get cold hands (and feet) due to poor circulation and need a glove that is going to be warm, but dexterous enough for hard climbing. I also need them to last more than a season. They need to be tough!

Granted, I can not usually get all these things from just one glove. I normally carry 3 or 4 pairs on a day out winter climbing in Scotland, a warm gauntlet style for belaying, and a couple of thinner, short cuff, soft shell pairs for climbing technical pitches; feeling that it’s best to put up with a bit of extra cold for an increase in dexterity and a decrease in scare factor and pump.

So, where do the Alpine Alibi II Gloves from Outdoor Research fit in to all this? Well first of all, they are a full gauntlet style, lined with a Gore Tex membrane and insulated with Primaloft One (synthetic filling). This means you get great hand protection from the elements and they are warm. With 170g of Primaloft One insulation, Outdoor Research say these gloves have a target comfort range from -5°F to 20°F. And they really are warm! Probably a little too warm for strenuous pitches in Scotland but perfect as a belay glove or if you want to give your hands a boost when moving more slowly.

I used these gloves on quite a few damp (wet!) days in the Scottish mountains this season and the Gore Tex liners did keep my hands dry. What I did notice however, was that the stretch softshell outer fabric wetted out completely on a couple of occasions. These were pretty wet days but I could ring them out by the time I got back to the car, they were that saturated! Astonishingly, my hands were still fairly dry inside though!

 

I have used these gloves for climbing technical mixed pitches on Ben Nevis, ice falls in the Alps, winter mountaineering in temperatures down to -15 degrees C and also whilst skiing. They worked for all of these applications but probably performed best for me on winter Alpine climbs and ice falls of medium technical difficulty.

The Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Glove was dexterous enough for placing protection on steep ice climbs and protected my hands from the elements. The dexterity of the Alpine Alibi II Gloves is very good for a glove of this warmth, but I did have a slight issue with the fit. I wear a size small in these (for comparison purposes I wear a medium in other brands such as Black Diamond) and whilst the fit and dexterity of the fingers was superb, the thumb was way too big for me and had the knock on effect of making the glove feel clumsy in those situations where lots of dexterity is needed, such as fiddling gear in and clipping on tricky cruxes! They may be fine for you, so you just need to try them on before you buy them!

So far the quality and durability is proving to be brilliant. The Pittards leather palm and fingers are showing very little wear. I really like the foam panels on the back of the hand for protection when using ice tools, however one thing I am noticing is that the edges of the fabric they are set into, are showing wear and this could maybe have been done more neatly. This is the only major sign of wear so far though.

Other features I like on these gloves are the internal gusset and SuperCinch gauntlet closure which do a nice job of sealing out the elements. The Idiot Cords are also great too and a good backup to stop the clumsy ones amongst us, dropping them 1000m down an icy North face!

So to conclude, the Alpine Alibi II Glove from OR is a well made, warm and protective gauntlet, great for winter Alpine climbing, Scottish routes as well as skiing and general mountaineering. The fingers are dexterous for a glove of this warmth rating although I did find the thumbs too long for me.

• Price: £130

• Find out more and buy these at the Outdoor Research website.

 

 

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Winter Conditions Report, Coire an t’Sneachda, Cairngorms – Blog
27 January 2014, 9:58 pm

Climbed in the Cairngorms with Kasia on Saturday. The forecast was pretty wild, with high winds and heavy snow forecast, so we remained flexible. Kasia following the first pitch of Original Summer Route IV 5, Coire an t’Sneachda, 25/1/2014 The walk in was pretty damp with sleet falling on a strong wind from the SW. Many of the routes in Coire an t’Sneachda are pretty buried at the moment but Alladin’s Buttress is holding up ok. However a lot of the climbs are technically much easier than usual but also quite a bit bolder, with gear being particularly hard won.

There were some pockets of wind slab on the approach slopes and care will be needed after all the new snow and wind. We opted to climb Original Summer Route IV, 5 and this gave some good climbing and a little bit of respite from the wind. It also offered a safe abseil descent. Other teams were out on Doctor’s Choice, Patey’s Route, Invernookie and The Seam.

 

We didn’t manage to climb on Sunday as the ski road was closed due to blizzard conditions. The unsettled weather has made it a frustrating season so far but hopefully it will come good soon. Safe climbing!

 

Cheers, Kev.

Check these links before you head out:

• MWIS mountain weather
• SAIS avalanche forecasts
• UKC winter logbooks

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Mammut Alugator Light Shovel – Skiing Gear Review
28 January 2014, 9:57 am



Mammut Alugator Light Shovel James Parkinson heads into the mountains with his Mammut Alugator Light Shovel. A crucial piece of kit for off piste/backcountry skiers. Quality: *****

Value: ****

James Parkinson with the Mammut Alugator Light Shovel in the off piste ski heaven of the Vallons De La Meije, La Grave, France. One of the major dangers of venturing into the mountains in winter is avalanche. It is recommended

that all skiers (and perhaps climbers should too) carry and know how to use certain pieces of

equipment when heading away from controlled and pisted areas, namely the holy trinity of

transceiver, probe and shovel. CGR took the Mammut Alugator Light shovel to La Grave over New

Year with the hope of never having to take it out of a backpack!

The Mammut Alugator Light Shovel packs neatly into a skiing day pack and at 650g it is sturdy without weighing you down. My first impression of the shovel was that it is a quality piece of kit. The blade is made from

anodised aluminium (metal blades are much more reliable and useful than plastic or Perspex) and

the build quality is excellent. The two piece T-grip telescopic handle attaches into the head with a

solidly resounding click and locks in place with a spring-loaded pin.

The anodised aluminium blade on the Mammut Alugator Light Shovel coped well with hard snow. When compared to Kev’s Black Diamond shovel, the blade is about the same size but the handle is

four inches shorter. I’m not sure this makes a massive difference in usability and I personally found

the Mammut to be easier to put together than other shovels I have used. When in two parts (blade and handle) the shovel fits very neatly into a sack, whether a small ski-specific one (I used a 16L Osprey Switch) or a larger one with climbing or crevasse rescue kit. At 650g it won’t weigh you down but feels sturdy in use.

The shaft of the Mammut Alugator Light Shovel is slightly shorter than on some other shovels we have used but didn’t noticeably affect it’s digging efficiency. One nice touch to the blade are the two holes for a sling to be threaded through to allow it to be

used as a deadman. Pretty niche usage I guess but there if you want it!

Thankfully, the only time the shovel came out of the bag in France was to dig a pit to check the

layers of snow after a new fall and not to get anyone out after a slide. However, if it came to it, I

think the Mammut Alugator Light would be well up to the job and I’ll be taking it on all my future

backcountry adventures.

 

• RRP: £45
• For more information visit the Mammut website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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The North Face Radium Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
29 January 2014, 7:43 am



Dave tests out the super warm Hi-Loft fleece from The North Face…

The North Face Men’s Radium Hi-Loft Jacket for mountaineering has the highest warmth to weight ratio of any Hi-Loft fleece from The North Face.

Performance****

Style****

Value***

Hi-Loft fleeces are a staple in any mountaineering clothing catalogue and many of us will have owned a few in our climbing careers (I even go back as far as the original Helly Hansen fleece, in fact I have mate who still has a full outfit – the original onesie!). The advantages are: they are very warm, they look good in casual wear, they are hardwearing and durable. They also last a long time and are very breathable. So there are lots of reasons to have one as part of your general climbing apparel collection.

The TNF Radium jacket was very breathable and dried out quickly. Hi-loft fleeces have dipped in and out of favour over recent years, especially with the advent of synthetic insulation jackets which also can look good casually and fit nicely under a shell. But they are more breathable than wearing a jacket with a Pertex type shell and it’s for that reason, they have superior versatility. They also require much less cleaning care so are great on expeditions when you may need to clean some clothing (on occasion of course), as  The North Face Radium jacket can just be washed in a stream, left to dry on a branch and hey presto – all the insulating properties have been restored as quick as you like!

The North Face Radium jacket is marketed as having the highest loft fleece material in their entire range and boasts the highest warmth to weight ratio. It is part of The North Face Summit Series so is designed as a technical mountaineering garment. It’s made using Polartec Thermal Pro fleece with Polartec Power Stretch panels at the sides, the collar and the sleeve hems. The Polortec Thermal pro was very warm and the loft was indeed fantastically high! These types of fleeces can appear very ‘furry’ and be awkward to wear under a hardshell with an athletic (or climbing) fit. This wasn’t the case with the The North Face Radium jacket, it fitted well under my The North Face Anti-Matter jacket and this provided an excellent winter combination. I did however feel a little inhibited for technical climbing, however for mountaineering it was great.

The TNF Radium jacket fitted nicely under a hardshell. I could wear the Radium fleece for walking in to the base of a routes, by the time I had got all my kit sorted the fleece material had dried out and I was ready to pop a shell on. Breathability was aided by the great looking baffle design. This gave the fleece the same baffling configuration as jackets such as the Crimptastic and the Catalyst and allowed the jacket to have a much more superior breathability than either of those. In calm conditions the jacket was plenty warm enough but as soon as the breeze got up you needed a shell to maintain that warmth.

Without a shell the jacket was good for climbing in, it felt durable on those more thrutchy types of routes where you would rip your Pertex-shelled insulation jacket to pieces. The cut was good and I had no major rise issues with the sleeves.

The sleeve cuffs, inside sleeves, side panels, collar and the back of the neck were all made from Polartec Power Stretch, this further aided breathability and provided some stretch for climbing. The collar and sleeve cuff were double thickness which was a nice touch. The collar was well sized and felt cozy when closed. There were no hem cinches around the bottom of the jacket, which was refreshing and added to the clean look. The YKK zips all worked well although they could have had more glove friendly zip tags on them. All the seams were flatlocked.

There two side, hand warmer pockets. These were pack friendly as stated and I could access them with a pack waist belt on. They were inhibited by a harness though and I could only access half of the pocket with a harness on. The pockets were nice and large however and I could easily get an OS map into one. Most notably there was no chest pocket, I felt this was a disappointment as I often use a chest pocket when climbing – keeping a topo in or keeping small amounts of food when on a multi pitch route. The jacket would have been much improved by the addition of this simple pocket, either inside or out.

All in all The North Face Radium jacket is a good mountaineering fleece. The Polartec Thermal Pro fleece material is indeed incredibly warm and packs down well enough to take up little space in a climbing pack. The jacket is breathable and stylish. I have been using it casually all season and its versatility is great. It is robust, washes easily and the technical cut is great for all mountain activities.

SRP: £140

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Haglöfs Barrier II Pro Belay Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
30 January 2014, 6:30 am

A synthetic belay jacket is a crucial piece of kit for winter mountain pursuits in the UK. James Parkinson gives us the lowdown on the Barrier II Pro Belay Jacket from Haglöfs… Let’s face it; belaying isn’t the most fun aspect of climbing. Standing at the base of the crag while your mate dangles interminably from the same bolt on a sport route (“I’ll just try this move again!”) or embracing the suffering on some freezing cold, spindrift-blasted ledge in Scotland isn’t most right thinking people’s idea of a good time. Belay duty can be made much more pleasant (or at least less unpleasant) with the addition of a decent insulated jacket. In the UK, the climate is more often than not on the damp side and so down isn’t the best option. Better to go for a jacket with synthetic insulation, such as the Haglöfs Barrier Pro II Belay Jacket.

James Parkinson about to begin a potentially unpleasant belay stint in some dubious weather. The Barrier Pro II Belay Jacket gets a thorough test! The Barrier Pro II Belay Jacket uses QuadFusion+ insulation, a synthetic polyester fibre which comes from 100% recycled materials and weighs 100g per square metre. I found this plenty warm enough for everything I needed and I wore the jacket belaying on grit trad, between attempts on boulder problems as well as belaying on continental ice falls in the middle of a snowstorm. It even coped with the winter commute!

The Haglöfs Barrier Pro II Jacket keeps you warm (and looking cool!) on cold, dry days like this one in La Grave, France. It is light and compact enough to carry on all your adventures, but offers the warmth and protection of a full on belay parka. The outer shell of the jacket is made of DWR treated Pertex Quantum which feels pretty light and silky to the touch but seems fairly tough in use. No holes in it yet! The shoulders and sleeves are reinforced with a slightly thicker version of the fabric (30D as opposed to 20D in the body) and this works well. In light rain, I found that water beaded up on the surface of the jacket and on many occasions, I chose to wear it instead of a full on shell jacket. Of course, in heavy rain you will get wet but you’ll stay warm.

For a jacket designed to go over all your clothes (throw it over your shell layer on the stance), I found the sizing to be slightly on the small size so I’d recommend trying before you buy. That said, the hood is massive and fits very easily over a helmet. The three way adjustable bungee cords work well, although the one on the back of the hood is exposed so may catch on things.

The full length zip can be opened from the bottom for ease of access to your harness – somewhat standard issue nowadays but by no means universal. There are two large chest pockets that easily fit a guidebook as well as two hand warmer pockets. The cuffs are elasticated which makes a nice seal from the elements but can make getting the jacket on and off slightly difficult when wearing bulky gloves. I would have preferred a Velcro adjuster but others might not.

The Haglöfs Barrier Pro II Belay Jacket has a 2 way zip, a crucial feature on proper belay jackets. Try to size it to fit over your out layers. The hem draw cord keeps everything neat and can be adjusted at both sides of the hips with one hand. A stuff sack (non-integrated) is supplied but unfortunately this doesn’t have a clip loop, so I had to use another to clip the jacket to my harness while climbing. A small thing, but could have easily been sorted.

The Barrier Pro II Belay Jacket is available in Noble Blue/Firefly (kind of purple and lime) or a more subtle Magnetite. Either way, it is a very good (barring a couple of niggles) synthetic jacket that I’ll be pulling on when the spindrift starts firing!

• RRP: £219.99
• For more information visit the Haglöfs website.
• To find out more about Belay Jackets and what to look for, read our article: Winter Belay Jackets – a guide for buyers.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Edelrid Nineteen G Quickdraw Set – Climbing Gear Review
31 January 2014, 7:05 am



Kev Avery puts the ultra-light 19G Quickdraws from Edelrid through their paces to see if light really is right… Quality: *****



Usability: ***and a half



Value: ****



The Edelrid 19G Quickdraw doing its job on a classic Chamonix ice climb. In activities such as alpine climbing, the ‘less is more’ philosophy has been developing for a while. The ‘climb light, fast and high’ style advocated by alpine specialist, Mark Twight in his book, Extreme Alpinism, has been continually evolving with the help of modern lightweight gear. This has has culminated in some awe inspiring ascents in the Greater Ranges, most notably Ueli Steck’s audacious solo of the South Face of Annapurna recently.

But what does this mean to Joe Average, heading off into the hills? And is there a point where ‘light is right’ just goes too far?

Well, when the Nineteen G quickdraws arrived from Edelrid, I did wonder! The karabiners looked more suited to hanging keys up than protecting climbers. However as saving weight, in turn saves me energy, meaning I can go quicker and for longer (at least that’s the theory), then I was certainly going to give them a fair crack of the whip!

So let’s start with some stats. A single 19G karabiner weighs well, 19 grams actually (19.5 to be exact)! One of my standard wire gate karabiners weighs 37 grams, nearly twice as much! But what about strength? Well, the closed gate strength of a 19G karabiner is 20 KN, the minor axis strength is 7 KN as is the gate open strength. With my standard karabiner the gate closed strength is 24 KN, the minor axis rating at 7KN (the same as the 19G) and gate open strength, 9 KN. Reading these stats it’s obvious that there is a strength difference. But make no doubt about it, these are both full strength karabiners. And the reduction in strength is actually not such a great deal when you consider the reduction in weight.

An Edelrid 19G Karabiner alongside one of my standard full size karabiners. Note the size difference! Whilst we’re on with stats, particularly weight stats, I’d just like to mention the weight of a full 19G quickdraw. It weighs in at 45 grams! That is two 19G karabiners joined with a 10cm (18cm lengths are also available), 8 mm Dyneema® quickdraw sling. My standard quickdraw with 2 standard wire gate karabiners at 37 grams each and a more durable 14mm, 10cm dyneema sling, weighs 82 grams. Again, this is nearly double! Twelve standard quickdraws weighs in at nearly a kilogram (984 grams). Twelve 19G quickdraws weigh just over half a kilo (540 grams) meaning an instant weight saving of 444 grams. Sounds good hey?

So, like I said earlier, light is good in lots of ways. The most obvious being that you use less energy and can move quicker and more efficiently while climbing. I’ve really enjoyed using the 19G quickdraws over the last 6 months, in a range of different situations from trad rock climbing to alpine mountaineering. Clipping a set to my harness, I instantly noticed the saving in weight and this is definitely a bonus.

But what is the down side? Ok, well the main down side with Edelrid’s 19G quickdraws is the size. This (small size) is actually a big positive in some respects, as it takes up less room in your pack but it also causes one or two potential issues. The main one being handling. When I first received the 19G quickdraws I did think that they would be nigh on impossible to use as the karabiners just seemed too small. It was nice to be proved wrong! The 19G karabiners are fine to clip and use without gloves on. I had to adapt my clipping style a little (as shown below) but whilst trad and sport climbing, I managed to clip without too many fumbles.

I found I needed to adapt my clipping action a little due to the small size of the karabiners on the Edelrid 19G Quickdraw. It was nice to save some weight on multi pitch rock climbs! I probably wouldn’t use a full set of the 19G quickdraws for my rock climbing as I like the the extra versatility of a full size karabiner (being able to clip a couple of clove hitches into one karabiner etc) but I would definitely supplement my rack with half a dozen or so. I have also started adding the karabiners to 60cm slings to make extendable quickdraws.

I added the Edelrid 19G karabiners to my 60cm slings to create long extenders and reduce the weight of my rack. Where the 19G quickdraws really came into their own for me, was on classic alpine terrain. Last summer I spent a lot of time climbing in the French and Swiss Alps. Travelling light on long routes at altitude means you move more quickly and this also makes things safer. I climbed routes such as the Italian Ridge on the Matterhorn and Kuffner Ridge on Mont Maudit using these quickdraws. I was wearing gloves on both these routes but as the climbing is not technical, I could generally use 2 hands to clip the rope so did not have any fumbling issues.

The Edelrid 19G Quickdraws worked best on classic alpine routes such as the Aiguille Du Midi’s, Cosmiques Arete. I have also used them on more technical ice and mixed ground where I had to clip with one gloved hand and as long as my gloves were reasonably thin and dexterous, I did manage. I wouldn’t want to lead a hard mixed pitch with a full rack of 19G quickdraws though as I think it could lead to some fumbling and ‘gripper clippers’!

For those climbers who want the ease of clipping that a full sized karabiner provides, but some of the weight saving benefits then you may also want to have a look at the Mission Light Set; a 19G on the top end for clipping to pegs, bolts, gear etc and a larger Mission karabiner for clipping the rope into.

Kasia Baldwin using the Edelrid 19G Quickdraws on more technical ground whilst leading the crux pitch of Mt Blanc du Tacul’s Chere Couloir. One minor concern I had was how the karabiners would sit when clipped into pitons as I have found this to be a problem in the past. However I didn’t find this to be any more of an issue than with other karabiners I have used.

Edelrid 19G Quickdraw clipped into a piton. So, to sum things up. The 19G quickdraws from Edelrid are a well made, full strength and ultralight quickdraw, best suited to classic alpinism, but also a great supplementary addition to your trad or sport rack. Their small size means they are not as easy to clip, particularly when wearing gloves but they do a great job of reducing the weight on your back or around your waist, meaning you can move quicker and more efficiently. Light really can be right!

• RRP: 10cm £20 18cm £22  
• To find out more visit the Edelrid website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Ble Ice warthog 38 – Climbing Gear Review
4 February 2014, 7:13 pm



CGR tests out the Warthog 26’s big brother to see if bigger is better.

The Blue Ice Warthog 38L is tough and light like its little brother, the Warthog 26L, but added volume and features make it suitable for longer adventures.

Performance****

Features***

Value****

Earlier in the season we tested the Blue Ice Warthog 26, a climbing day pack. He loves that pack and there are several climbing buddies that use it. CGR editor Kev Avery concluded that some British climbers might find the pack a little small for their liking and that the 38L version would be for them.

Kev testing the Warthog 26, the Warthog 38 feels much bigger. So we asked for one on test with a regular British climber – me! I would say that my climbing packing is more to the British taste as I like to have a little redundancy for safety reasons. When we go out climbing I’m the one that seems to have a shelter, first aid kit, GPS and a little extra clothing. Of course I pay for that; often being the last to arrive at the route. More hill sprints required!

So being a regular climbing dude it was left to me to test the larger pack, it arrived just in time for the Scottish winter climbing season to begin. So does bigger mean better?

As with other Blue Ice packs, there are only just enough features for the pack to perform so it is a very ‘clean’ looking pack with no extra straps flying around. There are no side compression straps, shoulder tension straps or excess pockets. In fact there is no excess anything which brings the pack in at just under 900 grams, very light for a pack that size.

The Warthog 38 is light enough for those big walk ins. The materials are pretty bombfroof with the main body and lid made with 500D Cordura with the base and axe sleeve made from 850D Cordura Ballistic. So a very durable material combination means that this pack will last for several seasons. Extra durability is provided by bartack and double stitching to all the main load bearing points,the stitch count was very high. The pack had a great ‘burly’ feel to it.

The back legth is one size, fixed with no stays for support, in fact the only padding is provided by by a triple folded 4mm foam mat. Careful packing is therefore needed for a long walk in as I could feel lumps digging in (but with a repack the next day it was fine). Although the pack had a floppy feel as I was putting it on, once on it proved quite stable to carry. The lid was also fixed which meansd that it would be difficult to load for a multi day expedition, but would be fine for a day or so. The lid pocket was huge and I could easily fit guide, maps, belay gloves and even small shell jackets. There was an internal, zipped pocket that was plenty big enough for a phone and wallet – there was no key clip inside here, Blue Ice say that the internal pocket is just for your keys and easier to use than a key clip. This would work as long as you didn’t access the pocket again, that still leaves where to put your wallet and phone. In fact after some time I found where to put my car key securely. There is a sewn loop inside the helmet mesh pocket and you will still need a small biner to keep your keys completely secure. The lid tightened with an upwards pull, I’ve used this system well with other packs and you’d be surprised how effective it is. The buckle was a little small for my liking and I would have liked to have seen something a little more durable, lid buckles are first to go on a pack so durability here is worth a little extra weight.

Could be loaded up with plenty of kit for a big day in the mountains. Other pockets include a very handy helmet mesh pocket at the front of the lid, this held my helmet very well but was fiddly to use with gloves on, very fiddly indeed. There was also a hydration bladder pocket which I didn’t  use (as I’m not a hydration bladder fan) expect for storing maps. The bivvy mat was also accessed by a large, zipped compartment that could also provide an extra secure pocket. There were also two sewn gear loops sewn inside the pack for those who likie to organise their gear that way.

The shoulder straps were well padded and very comfortable with sewn fabric hose loops which were great for attaching my altimeter to. There was an adjustable sternum strap with a whistle buckle closure. All straps were bartack stitched, easy to adjust and very durable.  I would have liked to have seen some tension straps on the shoulders as this would have helped with heavy loads.

The Blue Ice Warthog 38 also came with 5 very industrial attachment points and two removable straps. The bottom strap is a very important part of the axe carry system so needs to be left in position, the other three can be used for ski and crampon attachment as well as anything that won’t fit in on a muliti day bivvy. The attachment points are reinforced with Hypalon that were cleverly folded to take extra shock cord. They also double up as compression straps, the idea being that it keeps the side of the pack clean.

There was a 50mm, removable waist belt. This was secured with Velcro and was easy to remove in the field. There were tension straps on this area to help with fine adjustment for the carry. The axe carry system was the sleeve variety and is different from the early version of the Blue Ice Warthog 26. It had a double layer of the Cordura Ballistic together with shock cord shaft attachment and a full strap to secure them.

So, in conclusion the Blue Ice Warthog 38L pack is a huge pack that will fit everything you can throw in it for a Scottish winter day out, summer cragging, Alpine overnight bivvies and ski mountaineering adventures. It is streamlined, comfortable to carry and climb in with just enough features and no cosmetic extras. It needs to be full for the best support otherwise it can feel a little floppy; it needs a clip on the key loop and would benefit from shoulder tension straps on heavy carries. It will last years and like Kev with the 26L version it has quickly become the pack of choice for my winter adventures.

RRP £110.00

Stockists



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

[comPiler]

Blue Ice Warthog 38 – Climbing Gear Review
4 February 2014, 7:13 pm



CGR tests out the Warthog 26’s big brother to see if bigger is better.

The Blue Ice Warthog 38L is tough and light like its little brother, the Warthog 26L, but added volume and features make it suitable for longer adventures.

Performance****

Features***

Value****

Earlier in the season we tested the Blue Ice Warthog 26, a climbing day pack. Kev loves that pack and there are several climbing buddies that use it. However, CGR editor Kev Avery concluded that some British climbers might find the pack a little small for their liking and that the 38L version would be more for them.

Kev testing the Warthog 26, the Warthog 38 feels much bigger. So we asked for one on test with a regular British climber – me! I would say that my climbing packing is more to the British taste as I like to have a little redundancy for safety reasons. When we go out climbing I’m the one that seems to have a shelter, first aid kit, GPS and a little extra clothing. Of course I pay for that; often being the last to arrive at the route. More hill sprints required!

So being a regular climbing dude it was left to me to test the larger pack, it arrived just in time for the Scottish winter climbing season to begin. So does bigger mean better?

As with other Blue Ice packs, there are only just enough features for the pack to perform so it is a very ‘clean’ looking pack with no extra straps flying around. There are no side compression straps, shoulder tension straps or excess pockets. In fact there is no excess anything which brings the pack in at just under 900 grams, very light for a pack that size.

The Warthog 38 is light enough for those big walk ins. The materials are pretty bombfroof with the main body and lid made with 500D Cordura with the base and axe sleeve made from 850D Cordura Ballistic. So a very durable material combination means that this pack will last for several seasons. Extra durability is provided by bartack and double stitching to all the main load bearing points,the stitch count was very high. The pack had a great ‘burly’ feel to it.

The back length is one size, fixed with no stays for support, in fact the only padding is provided by a triple folded 4mm foam mat. Careful packing is therefore needed for a long walk in as I could feel lumps digging in (but with a repack the next day it was fine). Although the pack had a floppy feel as I was putting it on, once on it proved quite stable to carry. The lid was also fixed which means that it would be difficult to load for a multi day expedition, but would be fine for a day or so. The lid pocket was huge and I could easily fit guide, maps, belay gloves and even small shell jackets into it. There was an internal, zipped pocket that was plenty big enough for a phone and wallet – there was no key clip inside here, Blue Ice say that the internal pocket is just for your keys and easier to use than a key clip. This would work as long as you didn’t access the pocket again, that still leaves where to put your wallet and phone. In fact after some time I found where to put my car key securely. There is a sewn loop inside the helmet mesh pocket but you will still need a small biner to keep your keys completely secure. The lid tightened with an upwards pull, I’ve used this system well with other packs and you’d be surprised how effective it is. The buckle was a little small for my liking and I would have liked to have seen something a little more durable, lid buckles are first to go on a pack so durability here is worth a little extra weight.

Could be loaded up with plenty of kit for a big day in the mountains. Other pockets include a very handy helmet mesh pocket at the front of the lid, this held my helmet very well but was fiddly to use with gloves on, very fiddly indeed. There was also a hydration bladder pocket which I didn’t  use (as I’m not a hydration bladder fan) expect for storing maps. The bivvy mat was also accessed by a large, zipped compartment that could also provide an extra secure pocket. There were also two sewn gear loops sewn inside the pack for those who like to organise their gear that way.

The shoulder straps were well padded and very comfortable with sewn fabric hose loops which were great for attaching my altimeter to. There was an adjustable sternum strap with a whistle buckle closure. All straps were bar-tack stitched, easy to adjust and very durable.  I would have liked to have seen some tension straps on the shoulders as this would have helped with heavy loads.

The Blue Ice Warthog 38 also came with 5 very industrial attachment points and two removable straps. The bottom strap is a very important part of the axe carry system so needs to be left in position, the other three can be used for ski and crampon attachment as well as anything that won’t fit in on a multi day bivi. The attachment points are reinforced with Hypalon that were cleverly folded to take extra shock cord. They also double up as compression straps, the idea being that it keeps the side of the pack clean.

There was a 50mm, removable waist belt. This was secured with Velcro and was easy to remove in the field. There were tension straps on this area to help with fine adjustment for the carry. The axe carry system was the sleeve variety and is different from the early version of the Blue Ice Warthog 26. It had a double layer of the Cordura Ballistic together with shock cord shaft attachment and a full strap to secure them.

So, in conclusion the Blue Ice Warthog 38L pack is a huge pack that will fit everything you can throw in it for a Scottish winter day out, summer cragging, Alpine overnight bivvies and ski mountaineering adventures. It is streamlined, comfortable to carry and climb in with just enough features and no cosmetic extras. It needs to be full for the best support otherwise it can feel a little floppy; it needs a clip on the key loop and would benefit from shoulder tension straps on heavy carries. It will last years and like Kev with the 26L version it has quickly become the pack of choice for my winter adventures.

RRP £110.00

Stockists



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Patagonia DAS Parka – Climbing Gear Review
10 February 2014, 3:27 pm

Kev Avery puts a classic piece from Patagonia through its paces. The DAS Parka belay jacket… Performance****

Style ****

Value****

Patagonia say this about their current DAS Parka: “For full-on alpine conditions, the DAS Parka is our warmest insulated jacket; it’s made with high-loft 120-g PrimaLoft® SYNERGY insulation throughout, additional 60-g PrimaLoft® ONE insulation in core areas, and a lightweight, PU-coated nylon ripstop shell that is durable, water-resistant and windproof.“

All DAS’d up with nowhere to go! Testing Patagonia’s DAS Parka in the French Alps. A great belay parka fits over your outer layers and has a 2 way zip so you can access your belay loop. This is my second ever DAS Parka and Patagonia’s most recent incarnation of their classic synthetic belay parka. I bought my first in the Patagonia store on Oahu’s North Shore, it was 40 degrees centigrade at the time, and humid as hell so it wasn’t needed at that point, but the exchange rate made the purchase a ‘no brainer!’ I wore that DAS literally to death and it came with me on lots of adventures in Scotland and the Alps. When it did die I made use of Patagonia’s “Ironclad Guarantee” and was given a credit as they were not currently making the DAS. So, when I saw the DAS was back in the range, I was pretty psyched to try the new one!

BY the way, DAS stands for Dead Air Space. Basically you want it to trap lots of air, so it should hopefully be well named.

One thing I do remember about my old (circa 2004) DAS is that the sizing was huge! If you read our Belay Jacket Article you will already know that a good belay parka should fit over the top of your shell layers and this would explain the oversizing of the DAS. But this original one was massive and I actually opted for an XS size, and even this was fine over the top of everything.

So, one of the first things I noticed in the bumf from Patagonia, was that the new DAS was paired down in terns of fit. So, I opted this time for a size Small. And having used the DAS quite a bit now, I feel this was a good choice for me. I am 5 feet, 9 inches tall, about 65 kg and when I’m climbing I generally wear quite light and thin layers. Typically for technical climbing in winter I’ve got a baselayer wicking top, fleece midlayer and then a light shell. I may wear a synthetic gilet to insulate my core if things get really cold. The DAS fits easily over this ‘action suit’ and as such fulfills my first main requirement of a belay parka. It is also long enough so as to insulate my hips and glutes and the crucial 2 way zipper allows this to work, even over my climbing harness.

The Patagonia DAS Parka in action on a belay stint in Scotland. Okay then…so far the fit is all good! Patagonia say it is more sculpted but I wouldn’t go as far as to say it is tailored as such, except maybe tailored in quite a boxy way to do a practical job, which is perfect for the kind of garment it is.

Keeping on with the fit theme, I liked the sleeve length and the simple elastic cuffs (others may prefer velcro). The hood was also very good, easily fitting over my Petzl Sirocco climbing helmet. Adjustment was also pretty simple, being via a single-pull drawcord to adjust overall volume and peripheral vision. This was easy enough to operate with big gloves on too. My one gripe with the fit and cut was the collar and neck. It did not seem to fit in with the ‘tall collar traps extra heat’ description on the Patagonia site and I have read other reviews which say the same thing. In my opinion it stops about an inch and a half too low to fully seal out the cold and damp, grim weather that has been thrown at it this winter in Scotland and the Alps. To get it to actually cover my face it actually pulled the shoulders up a little so a bit of tweakage is required in the design here I think.

A few finer details…

The 2 way zipper works smoothly even with gloves on. It doesn’t snag on the internal baffle and this baffle does a good job of sealing out wind. The two hand warmer pockets are operated with zips which again, are easy to use whilst wearing gloves as is the chest pocket, something which is handy for stuffing some food in to nibble on, whilst your mate is climbing. There are also 2 internal mesh pockets, a key feature on this type of parka. These are big enough to store spare gloves, a topo or even a 1 litre Nalgene type drink bottle.

The fabric Patagonia use on the current DAS is:

“1.2-oz 20-denier 100% nylon PU-coated ripstop, with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish. Lightweight PU-coated nylon ripstop shell is durable, water-resistant, windproof and treated with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish.”

It is supposed to be more water resistant and windproof due to the PU coating but this will compromise breathabilty a little I would have thought. It does seem durable though and pretty light. I’ve metaphorically kicked mine around quite a bit and it’s holding up fine. Back onto weight and it hauls in just under the 700g mark for my Small, a little lighter than my old DAS. The construction of the new DAS is much less of a stitch through one and this definitely helps eliminate cold spots in the insulation so this is a positive step.

Okay, so here is the BIG question. How warm is it?

Well firstly, this is kind of a relative thing as how warm something is to one person can feel totally different to another. Probably best to think in terms of insulation and fill, and then try and relate this to your own experiences and comparisons with other garments that you may have used.

Warming up in my Patagonia DAS Parka after bailing from a route in bad weather. One key thing for the whole ‘action suit’/'belay parka’ system to work is that you need the layers to be more breathable the further a way from the body that they are. So, as the DAS is essentially going to be your outer layer, it needs to be pretty dam breathable. We’ve already talked about the PU coated fabric and the breathability trade off there, so what about the actual insulation?

Patagonia use, “120-g PrimaLoft® Synergy 100% polyester” throughout the DAS (arms, body hood etc) then in the torso an additional layer of  “60-g PrimaLoft® ONE 100% polyester” (essentialy adding a 60-g filling gilet to keep the core warm). Some have said already that the current DAS isn’t as warm as the old DAS and that is one of the ways Patagonia have managed to reduce the weight. I’m not so sure and out of all my current (similar weight, fill etc) belay parkas, this current DAS is without a doubt, the warmest. I can’t really give a scientific explanation other than what I have used these garments for, and how they feel for me. The DAS is also the lightest of the similar garments I have used.

You’ll notice that Patagonia have used 2 different types of Primaloft in the DAS. The main component is Primaloft Synergy, which as far as I can tell is a cheaper inferior fill to Primaloft One, meaning you get less warmth for weight? I’m not sure this sounds like the best reasoning to go with this insulation, although some have also reasoned that Synergy is more breathable than One, hence why the layer of One is on the inside? Others have also reasoned, that Synergy is more durable and repels water more readily, but is less compressible. Perhaps Patagonia acknowledge this as the stuff sack they provide is HUGE! At least the DAS goes in easy though! There is a great discussion about all of this on the Cold Thistle Blog for those of you who are more interested.

A stuffed size comparison. The DAS is on the right (669 grams), the Patagonia Nano Puff is in the middle (357 grams) and the 400g soup can gives things perspective! The DAS comes with a big stuff sack but will fit in a smaller one. I use a roll top dry bag for mine. Also for those of you who are wondering why Patagonia don’t use down in the DAS, then read our Belay Jacket Article. They do actually make a hydrophobic down jacket, The Encapsil, but this is over twice as expensive and still won’t provide the performance of a DAS in damp/wet environments. When I was reading up on some background stuff for this DAS review I came across Kelly Cordes’s blog (yeah I know he works for Patagonia!) who had this interesting analogy about down versus synthetic:

“Think of it like women (or men – all about equality here). High-maintenance chicks suck. It’s a big drawback. Even if they’re hot. It’s like a down jacket. It doesn’t matter how comfy or nice looking it is, in the long run you’ll end up a beaten-down man with the thousand-yard stare, shivering and cold and lonely and broke and hating the world. For a quick session, though? (Meaning a day at the crag, get your mind out of the gutter!) Oh yeah.

But I’m in it for the long haul, baby.“

An amusing but meaningful analogy I thought…

Finally, I’m delighted to see that Patagonia have finally brought out a female version of the DAS. You can see that one on their website.

Okay let’s sum things up. The new DAS has been a great belay parka for me this winter. The only thing I would like to see is a higher collar so the coverage protects my mouth, face and chin better. The hood itself is fine and works over a helmet. I like the cut (it isn’t a fashion jacket), the 2 way zip, the inner and outer pockets and the lack of stitch through construction.It is also warm enough for me and light enough for the warmth it provides. There are still some questions re the insulation, and I don’t have the full answers yet. At £280 it is reasonably good value for the warmth it offers, and you also benefit from the Ironclad Guarantee that Patagonia offer.

• RRP: £280
• Find out more on the Patagonia website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Jacket and Pants – Climbing Gear News
11 February 2014, 6:37 pm



ARC’TERYX ALPHA COMPS: NEW PARADIGM FOR ALPINE CLIMBERS

Arc’teryx introduces the new Alpha Comp Jacket and Pant for 2014. Finely tuned, highly focused pieces with features, fabrics and a composite design exclusively combining GORE® 1.0 softshell material. Alpha Comp Jacket and Pant: two ice and alpine climbing specialists.

For climbers and alpinists, having the right equipment in the right conditions is imperative. However, in mountain environments, conditions can change quickly. Alpinists need to adjust rapidly to avoid exposure and critical loss of heat.

The new Alpha Comp Jacket and Pant from Arc’teryx are a unique solution using composite construction to manage multiple conditions. Exclusively combining waterproof, breathable GORE® Technology with Arc’teryx Fortius™ 1.0 softshell, the Alpha Comps protect climbers from weather and contact with ice and snow, while

also delivering freedom of movement and enhanced breathability.

The Alpha Comp Jacket has GORE® the shoulders, arms and hem where most exposure to snow and dripping water occurs. Fortius 1.0 softshell fabric in core areas allow the climber to reach freely and move quickly without overheating. The marriage of softshell and hardshell means fewer layers; less overall weight to carry and a system that can be worn all day.

Alpha Comp Jacket’s helmet compatible Storm Hood™ adjusts to move with the head for improved visibility. Removable Hemlock™ inserts keep the jacket securely tucked under the harness, and the trim fit enhances thermal regulation. There are two harness compatible hand pockets and a chest pocket to keep essentials handy.

The Alpha Comp Pant has articulated patterning and a gusseted crotch to facilitate freedom of movement. The waist adjustment uses a low profile metal hook to reduce potential for snagging, and the unique three position leg gusset can be adjusted for a low profile, crampon compatible fit. An easily accessible thigh pocket sits below the harness.

*The men’s and women’s Alpha Comp Jacket and Pant will be available in a limited Spring 2014 release Feb 15 2014 and at Arc’teryx retailers in Fall 2014.

CGR has a sample on test so look out for our review on here soon!

• Weight: 405g/14.3oz (M’s medium jacket), 420g/14.8oz (M’s medium pant); 355g/12.5oz (W’s medium jacket), 380g/13.4oz (W’s size 8 pants)
• Hardshell Composite Fabric: N40p 3L GORE® Fabric Technology with tricot
• Softshell Composite Fabric: Fortius™ 1.0, 84% nylon, 16% elastane
  •  RRP: Jacket £275 Pant £200

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews