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Climbing News – Patagonia Presents Climbing Ambassador Evening with UK Alpine Climber Matt Helliker
16 April 2013, 1:51 pm

Climbing Ambassador Evening with UK Alpine Climber Matt Helliker

Event – Climbing Ambassador Evening with UK Alpine Climber Matt Helliker

Date – Tuesday 30th April 19.30pm

Location – Patagonia Flagship London Store

Address – 6A Langley Street, WC2H 9JA

Tickets available to buy in store for £10

Outdoor brand Patagonia are pleased to be hosting an evening with Matt Helliker for all those climbing enthusiasts.

Matt and his long term climbing partner Jon Bracey made a first ascent on one of the world’s biggest Alpine faces climbing a stunning and formidable route to the Summit of Mount Hunter in Alaska in 2011. Matt will be talking through this unforgettable experience and also about his highly successful and award winning climbing dvd Moonflower.



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Black Diamond Siren Harness – Climbing Gear Review
17 April 2013, 5:13 pm





CGR reviewer Katie Mundy tests out the new female specific climbing harness from Black Diamond. Value for money: ***** Quality: ***** Performance: ****

So with the day light staying longer and the lack of snow, my positive thinking self is starting to believe that spring is on the way…maybe;  And with spring comes sport climbing.  I’m too much of a softy to do it until its t-shirt weather.   Well we happened to have had a tiny glimpse of it the other day, so I rushed out to the crag for a spot of climbing.  I’m testing the Black Diamond Siren harness.  A light weight harness designed specifically for women.

At the moment I have a super padded harness that’s perfect for hanging around when my climbing partners are projecting, but it’s pretty heavy and can get a little sweaty in the heat, so I was keen to see what this one would be like.

Well the first thing is, it weighs nothing!  OK if we’re being technical it weighs 312g (11oz), but honestly its light as a feather, and this is a nice change.  I never really noticed with my other harness the difference the weight made until I tried this lighter one, and yes, no surprises, it’s a bonus; I haven’t yet gone up a grade because of it, but any help is a good thing – just think British Cylcling ‘Marginal Gains’ theory.

The waist belt was easy to adjust when putting on, but I found it fiddly to tuck the tail end in, and tricky to adjust when that was secured.  So easy to put on, but not so easy to get off, especially when your arms are more like jelly worms after a hard day’s climbing.



I’m trying a size small in the Siren harness and I’m a size 8, it fits pretty well, but an XS would have been a good fit too, so if you’ve got a small waist and are verging on a 6-8 you may want to go for the smaller size.

Now the leg loop adjustments; really I didn’t think I could get excited about something like this, but, well, I did.  They’re just so easy to use!  No faffing, no extra bits to tuck in; just slid the little toggle along and bob’s your uncle!  This is the stuff I like to see; this is the stuff that makes you buy a new harness, clever thinking that makes your life just that tiny bit less stressful.

Moving on to the ‘Bombshell abrasion patches’;  BD have said they’re 20 times more durable than normal fabrics.  Logically this makes sense as it’s smooth and less likely to chaff, and I’m sure if I was doing long routes, hanging around wearing it all day this would start to come into play.  But for your average sport climber (me) I don’t think it makes much difference other than it’s always nice to know they’ve thought of everything, and if I do decide to take on the big walls, well I’ll be more than prepared.

With every harness I’ve had, I’ve been slightly annoyed with one thing, and that’s the fact that if you need an XS harness they give you 3 gear loops.  Why?  Just because I’m smaller doesn’t mean I’ll use less gear!  So I end up with the front of my harness totally weighed down, with really bad weight distribution.

The Siren harness is thankfully slightly different, as with the leg loops, just a subtle difference but one that takes down the stress level that bit more.  There are two loops with dividers down the middle, separating the gear so it doesn’t all congregate in one place and distributing the weight more evenly.  I still think if I was doing Trad I may want separate loops and more of them evenly placed around the waist, but for Sport this seems perfectly okay.  Mainly I didn’t feel like a little child whose gear loops were just for show.

The waist belt is woman specific, ‘Bullhorn shaped’ is the term; In my words, it fitted really well, it didn’t cut into my waist when I was hanging around and it sat snugly when climbing. It uses a Dual Core XP construction, which translated means comfortable and durable.



Obviously it’s not all about how it feels climbing, we all have to be on the other end of the rope sometimes, and sometimes that means for a looong time.   Well this is where my previous super deluxe mattress harness starts to take the lead.  The leg loops are comfortable to a certain extent with the Siren, and it honestly wasn’t too bad, but they were cutting off the circulation a bit by minute 5 of being a human weight bag.  But then you can’t have everything, and if the harness was more padded, well it would be more sweaty on those lovely warm days out (I sort of remember them).   And this harness isn’t sweaty, it’s light and breathable.

So when it comes down to it I only have one gripe, and that’s releasing the waist belt;  Well a little bit more thinking could go into that, but I’m sure they’ll get there.  It certainly isn’t a deal breaker.

The main thing is, it’s light, super light, and for what it weighs it’s definitely comfortable enough.

It’s also pretty good looking, it comes in two colours, mine is in Daiquiri (green with electric blue belay loop) but it also comes in Aruba Fire (that’s turquoise and red).  I’ll definitely be taking it on some trips this year to give it a really good run for its money, which by the by isn’t all that much.  For around £60.00 you can’t really argue.    It’s a well thought out piece of equipment which doesn’t ask for your life savings in return, and I’m happy to give it a big thumbs up.

RRP £59.99

For stockists click here



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Climbing Hard Shells – A Climbing Gear Reviews Buyers Guide.
21 April 2013, 8:55 am

A Hard Shell (unless you’re the eternal optimist) is an essential piece of mountain kit for climbers. Hopefully it stays in the pack but there are occasions when you will need to wear one – if it’s windy, if the clag is down at the top of your route, when the clag is down when you’re on the route or when you’re winter climbing.

You could use a softshell jacket (and I own and have reviewed several,) but they do have their drawbacks. Firstly they are not entirely windproof, unless you have a membrane softshell (which is really a hardshell) the wind will get through and chill you down; secondly they are not entirely waterproof. Even a membrane softshell will leak, as many don’t have taped seams.

A versatile alternative to a softshell is a fleece and hardshell combination, this means that you get maximum breathability walking to the route and maximum wind and water protection on the route and when walking down (it’s happened to us all, that optimistic walk up in the dry just to get rained on later!).

So what should you look for when choosing the ideal hardshell for climbing?

Number one is fit and arm movement, if it restricts your ability to reach for holds or axe placements then it’s not fit for purpose. When you try the jacket on, swing your arms around and see it the jacket hem rises when you reach up, you’re looking for minimal movement. Even better wear a harness and check for movement, there should be none. Some jackets, such as the Arc’teryx Alpha SV and LT, have an integrated hem-lock feature which helps to keep the hem neatly seated under a harness.

You are looking for some abrasion resistance because if you decide you are climbing in it you will need it to last and not get ripped to pieces. There is a trade off between durability and lightness. Your shell may spend most of its life in your pack so you want it compressible and light. Gore Tex Active Shield is a great fabric, Polartec Neo Shell is also proving popular as is Event. Gore Tex Windstopper is also making a comeback. The new breed of ‘hybrid hardshells’ are a great way of providing durability and lightness. High wear areas are made with abrasion resistant fabric and the rest from lighter fabrics.

Cuffs are an area worth looking at, the tabs need to easy to use with gloves on, they also need to provide a tight seal if your are wearing gloves over the top. If you are tucking your gloves in then the sleeve hems should be wide enough to do this. Personally for winter climbing I’m changing gloves at every belay so look for a nice tight seal.

The hood is another area that needs careful attention. It must be absolutely helmet compatible so wear one when you are trying a jacket on! When the hood is done up it should move with your head in all directions. All adjustment pulls should be easy to use with gloves on and these are often an issue we’ve had when reviewing clothing items. Wired peaks are best but are becoming hard to find!  I find myself wearing the hood all the time when winter climbing and if you want it to stay on your head instead of flopping down and filling up with powder snow then pay attention to it.

Pockets – I often find hand warmer pockets unnecessary. I would prefer a dedicated climbing jacket to have one large Napoleon style pocket to access topos, gloves, etc. I often stuff gloves down the front of the jacket for easy access. Pit zips are also a personal choice, mine is that they are again unnecessary. If I’m walking uphill to the crag and it’s raining I’m often turning round and heading for the pub!

Finally the zips – these are very much a tricky area that can all too easily let a great jacket down. They should be easy to use with gloves on or cold, wet hands. Too often the pull tabs are not large enough and hard to locate. I just prefer a plain Vislon zip with a water blocker and a good solid draft guard. I’m a realist and understand that the water will leak in via the zip, but I’m not expecting to stay totally dry, just warm and damp. I’ve had a lot of trouble with zips on very expensive jackets, it’s annoying and shouldn’t be a problem.

So there we have it that’s our guide to what you should look for in a climbing hardshell. We have scoured the market and come up with a selection of hardshells we think fit the bill:

The North Face Anti Matter

One of the lightest climbing shells on the market (319g). Created from a hybrid fabric construction of 2L and seam-taped 3L Gore Windstopper® Active Shell, the Anti-Matter Jacket cuts weight and bulk, while providing durable, abrasion-resistant protection and maximum freedom of  movement. 100% windproof, highly water-resistant and extremely breathable. Features climbing-specific fit, helmet-compatible hood with laminated and wired peak, hybrid alpine pockets/pit zips and nonabrasive, moulded cuff tabs.

Weight 305g

RRP £300

Marmot Speedri

FusionDri is a brand new waterproof/breathable membrane technology that Marmot has been helping to develop over the past three years. Marmot is the first brand to market with this new technology and I have no doubt we will see other brands using this technology format as an alternative to Gore’s wide range of performance products.

The confirmed statistics for this new technology are Breathability: 50,000gm/24hrs and waterproof level of 20,000mm. The FusionDri technology also incorporates a wicking backer to the inside of the jacket. This wicking backer helps pull moisture away from your body leaving you more comfortable when enduring high aerobic activity.

Weight 394g

RRP £270

Haglofs Spire Jacket

A reinforced Gore-Tex® Active Shell Jacket that is extremely breathable and durable, with details such as mountain helmet compatible hood and two chest pockets. Inner membrane protection is incorporated into the fabric, so no mesh lining is needed thus saving weight. Elegant pattern construction and the low bulk fabric combine to reduce weight and bulk. DWR treated surfaces. 3 way adjustable mountain helmet compatible hood. 2 way main zip with chin guard and weather guard behind. Two mid mounted chest pockets with venting internal construction. Articulated sleeves with Velcro cuff adjustment. Single handed waist hem cord adjustment. Rear hanging loop (handy for the drying room - Ed).

Weight 380g

RRP £320

Patagonia Torrent Shell Plus

The Great Western Loop takes you from high mountain passes to enchanted deserts and Pacific rainforests, and calls for serious stamina in your legs as well as your gear. Made for devoted backpackers and trekkers, our new Torrentshell Plus Jacket delivers durability with H2No Performance Standard 2.5-layer waterproof/breathable nylon ripstop fabric that’s reinforced through the shoulders and side. The rain jacket also has a 2-way-adjustable hood, with laminated visor, that rolls down and stows. The center-front zipper is watertight-coated, with an internal storm flap, and the Deluge® DWR-treated pit zips have welted exterior storm flaps. Pockets: two welted, zippered handwarmers with DWR-treated zips, and an internal drop-in mesh pocket. Other details include self-fabric hook-and-loop cuff closures, an adjustable drawcord hem and a self-stuff handwarmer pocket with carabiner clip-in loop. Deluge DWR (durable water repellent) finish.

Weight 337g

RRP £130.

Lowe Alpine Taiga Jacket

Lowe Alpine are having a major revamp of their whole clothing collection so it’s great to see them back in action with a dedicated Alpine jacket.

Details:  Triplepoint^® AP 3L fabric. Waterproof, windproof, breathable with taped seams. Helmet-compatible hood, wired peak, roll-down hook and loop tab. 2-way YKK Aquaguard^® front zip, internal storm flap, rain drain. Tricot-lined collar. 2 YKK Aquaguard^® zipped Napoleon chest pockets. 2 YKK^® zipped internal mesh pockets. Adjustable hook and loop cuffs. Hem drawcord. Alpine fit.

Triplepoint^® AP utilises the latest technology from GE to provide one of the best breathable / waterproof fabrics in the world. At its heart is a microporous  ePTFE membrane protected by a patented surface treatment. Combine this layer with unique construction methods, plus durable face fabrics chosen specifically by Lowe Alpine and you have a system that offers 100% protection from driving rain, yet gives unrivalled breathability performance.

Weight 440g

RRP £230

So remember, a hardshell is an essential piece of mountain kit. Hopefully it will stay in your pack but if you do need to use it make sure it performs well and it won’t let you down. What do you look for in a climbing hardshell? Let us know in the comments below.



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Arc’teryx Quintic 38 Rucksack – Climbing Gear Review
22 April 2013, 10:11 am

 The ski touring season is in full flow so Kev grabs his skis and heads to the Vanoise region of the French Alps to find out if the Arc’teryx Quintic 38, really is the best ski touring pack… Value for money: **** Quality: ***** Performance: ***** Arc’teryx describe the Quintic 38 as a : “Comfortable, robust backpack with contoured back panel and ski/snowboard wrap system; Ideal for backcountry day tours.”

They go on to say: “This 38 litre pack is a steadfast partner for backcountry and close-to-area tours and features a lowered, wide, flat body of the pack that is shaped to the contours of the lumbar vertebrae and that holds and transfers the pack’s load through the body’s centre of gravity. Stable support and with easy access to items in the main compartment while in transit, this is a skier’s/snowboarder’s tool kit. Separate compartments keep shovel, safety gear, food and extras balanced and organized, and a reinforced, external wrap system is robust enough to carry skis and boards (A-frame, split and diagonal carry of skis; horizontal and vertical carry for snowboard). This pack is large enough to accommodate all your necessities for day tours.”

My attention was drawn towards the Arc’teryx Quintic packs as, during the run-up to the 2012/13 winter season, the Quintic 28 (the 38′s little brother) had been hitting the headlines and scooping up the awards. With ski touring being very much on my agenda for late season, I was after a pack that would tick the boxes for days off piste and more importantly, hut to hut tours. I opted for the larger 38 pack for this reason. I’ve tested the Quintic 38 when it’s been partially loaded; days off piste etc and also when it’s been fully loaded; hut to hut tours and the like.

A quick navigation stop! The Arc’teryx Quintic 38 in use whilst ski touring in the Vanoise National Park. First impression of the Quintic 38 when I got it was that it seemed ‘big’! And it is a roomy pack, well capable of holding everything I need for a 5 or 6 night hut to hut ski tour. I was a little concerned that it may be a bit too big and not carry particularly well when not fully loaded, but these concerns were soon forgotten when I put it on my back and started skiing!

The Quintic 38 is certainly a fully featured pack and has everything the modern day backcountry skier (or snowboarder) could want. There is a dedicated shovel and probe pocket, ample room for crampons, harscheissen (ski crampons), skins, ice axe, pocket for goggles, stash pockets for your valuables, key loop, roomy main compartment and easy access side compartment. The Quintic 38 is also hydration compatible and has a simple strap system for carrying skis or a snowboard (A-frame, split and diagonal carry of skis; horizontal and vertical carry for snowboard).

One of the things that really attracted me to the Quintic 38 was the way it was supposed to sit on your back and carry whilst skiing. Arc’teryx say that the back is lowered so it’s wide at the bottom and it is flat, so it fits the contours of your back. As such it transfers the pack’s load through the body’s centre of gravity and is very stable to carry. I’m definitely not the best skier in the world and skiing off piste with a big heavy bag on my back isn’t the sort of thing that really helps. In the past I’ve used standard climbing packs such as a Cierzo 35 and while they work ok, I do feel they are a bit top heavy for my liking and put me even more on the back foot when I’m skiing. I found the Quintic 38 carried superbly and it really did feel comfortable to ski with. Even when fully loaded it didn’t feel like it was trying to pull me backwards off my skis! And although I had initial reservations about whether it would flap around on my back when I didn’t have much in it, that wasn’t the case at all.

The Arc’teryx Quintic 38 carried well whilst skiing and felt nicely balanced on my back. Here it’s put through it’s paces carrying a full load and skiing great powder in the trees on a descent into Courchevel at the end of a great few days touring. Looking at the carrying system in more detail, the Quintic has a removable frame sheet contained inside an anatomically patterned sleeve that conforms to the curve of the back when fully loaded, and this as I mentioned previously, does work. The whole system feels quite substantial and I suppose the only downside I can see here is that, it’s not the lightest. There is also a waist belt and adjustable removable sternum strap which helps keep the pack stable and also spread the load. The back panel is as breathable as any other pack I’ve used and the laminated shoulder straps comfortable even when only wearing a t-shirt.

The pack has numerous compartments for your kit. Arc’teryx say that there is ample room for all your kit for day tours but I’d go further than this. I think a pack of this size is easily big enough for week long hut to hut tours. I used it on a week long tour in the Vanoise national park and happily carried everything I needed for the week. Granted I was staying in huts so didn’t need to carry a sleeping bag, shelter or stove but I think with careful packing I could fit these in.

At the Col d’Aussois on the way to Refuge Dent Parachee. The Arc’teryx Quintic 38 is perfect for hut to hut ski tours. As well as the main compartment, which opens via a front U-zip and easily houses shovel, probe and other essentials, there is a side accessed  large compartment, perfect for those overnight essentials, and also a smaller side accessed compartment, great for those on the move necessities such as energy bars, spare gloves and extra clothing. All compartments are accessed by high quality zippers with glove friendly zipper tabs. The two side accessed compartments are designed so that you can actually access them without taking the pack off and whilst this does work (I tried) I found it easier to take the pack off, particularly if I had to rummage around a bit.

One final thing I’d like to say about the Quintic is that the fabric seems absolutely bombproof, almost excessively so! And whilst this leads to a super durable piece of kit, it does also lead to an increase in weight, which is my only minor criticism of the pack. But for £170 you don’t want it falling apart after a few ski tours and I think I can safely say that it won’t! It’s just the high quality you’d expect from Arc’teryx.

So, all in all a fantastic pack! I love the Quintic 38, it’s got all the features and storage I need for hut to hut ski tours, but isn’t over the top for day hits as well. It carries superbly and quality is everything you’d expect from Arc’teryx and the price tag. A five star product.

Price: £170

• You can find out more about the Quintic 38 pack and where to buy one on the Arc’teryx website.

Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
22 April 2013, 10:47 am

  James Parkinson heads out on the local crags to test the Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody… Performance – *****

Style – ****

Value for money – ***

The Arc’teryx 24 range is a collection of relaxed leisure wear designed for rock climbing, travel or just going to the pub. A core piece in this collection is the Quiq hoody.

James Parkinson sporting the Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody whilst out bouldering at Caley Crag. Made from Apgar™, a stretchy cotton blend fabric, the first thing I noticed about the Quiq was the quality. As you’d expect from Arc’teryx, it is first class and with a retail price of £90, you’d hope so too! With a reasonably close and anatomical fit, the Quiq isn’t from the big, baggy, skater hoody mould but is actually fairly smart. I’ve worn it on an impromptu evening out to some fairly nice bars (nice for the CGR team, anyway) and not felt out of place.

The collar and hood were a couple of things that might take some getting used to; the tall collar styling is quite unorthodox and the hood is enormous! Good for pulling up over a helmet if you feel the need on a cool evening’s cragging or for living out your Jedi knight fantasies.

In action, I found that the stretchy fabric didn’t restrict climbing movement at all, despite the closeness of the fit. The gusseted underarms help in this respect too and the cuffs are nicely elasticated if you want to pull them up your forearms. The close fit means that the Quiq layers well under a shell or insulating jacket and the Apgar™ fabric breathes fairly well too, meaning the hoody can be used as a comfortable mid layer for various activities.

James Parkinson sporting the Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody whilst out bouldering at Caley Crag The kangaroo pocket on the front is lined and so thicker than the rest of the hoody meaning that hands can stay warm in between attempts at your project. It is also handy for stashing bits and pieces for the walk in.

Arc’teryx recommend washing in cold water or even dry cleaning but I have put it through a 40? wash a couple of times now with no ill effects. Much simpler than faffing about at the dry cleaners!

Available in four colours – Blue Onyx, Demarara, Utility Green and Wood Violet – the Quiq hoody is a great piece of everyday or climbing clothing with the quality you’d expect from Arc’teryx. At about twice the price of many hoodies on the market, it isn’t cheap but if you splash out, you won’t be disappointed.

Price: £90

To find out more about the Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody and where to buy it, visit the Arc’teryx website.



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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adidas Terrex Fleece – Climbing Gear Review
29 April 2013, 3:29 pm



Dave tests the new adidas Terrex Fleece in variety of mountain activities to see if it helps him become a German über climber! Performance *****

Style ****

Value ***

Specifically designed for high-performance outdoor comfort, the men’s adidas Terrex Fleece Jacket keeps you going strong with a stretchy FORMOTION® fit, allover moisture-wicking, and breathable insulation. The Cocona® fabric has a hydrophilic finish and is rated for 50+ SPF UV protection.

In 2012 we reviewed the adidas Terrex Hybrid Softshelland  Adidas continue their assault on the UK Outdoor Clothing market with a full range of climbing and mountaineering clothing. In our 2012 review we predicted that we would see more Adidas apparel in outdoor retailers as well as their dedicated shops around the UK.

The adidas Terrex Fleeceis not what you would consider a normal ‘furry’ fleece. I would say it’s more of an expedition weight midlayer: I wore it as a midlayer, usually over a thin t-shirt. On colder days I wore it over a lightweight merino wool baselayer.

I received a sample sized Medium (40/42) for testing, I am up to a 40” chest and the fit was nice and athletic. The overall length of the arms and body was a little large, but not overly. This shouldn’t be a problem as there is a great size range of 8 sizes to choose from. No weight was given but the trusty GCR scales weighed it in at 400g, so it’s not an ultralight top, but it’s not marketed as that.

The materials are Cocona (a USA based company) that has been working with many high profile manufacturers. This provides the main fabric with its wicking and anti-odour technology and Pontetorto Technostretch; a fabric made by Italian based Ponterato. This was highly breathable and was sitiated in all the main high sweat areas (back of the neck and under the arms). The zip was a standard YKK.

adidas Terrex Fleece – great for days out in the mountains The fleece as a full zip jacket, I found this extremely useful for extra venting and removing or putting on the top as the base of the route (there’s nothing more unnerving than hopping around at the belay of Point Five trying to get a sweaty baselayer off and looking at the monumental slide you are in for if you trip up!). So getting the fleece on and off was a breeze, The zip was easy to use and had a nice, large tab that made it easy to work with thin gloves on. There was a draught guard to help keep the warthm in; I had no problems with the zip.

The collar had plenty of extra material to keep it in position and worked really well when it was windy and I needed to keep the wind out. In the late spring winter climbing we have enjoyed I found the combination of light merino baselayer adidas Terrex Fleece and  a Hardshell perfect, I was plenty warm enough climbing and just popped a belay jacket on for belays. It would be a good choice for continental icefall climbing.

Wicking was brilliant for active sports like trail running. The wicking worked very well with the gridded, terry pattern on the inside and flat faced outer. I did keep out a slight breeze, but nothing stronger. I often used it in combination with the adidas Terrex Hybrid Softshell Vest (this is also on test) which was just about a perfect combination for winter approaches. The top dried out quickly, even under the hardshell. I would walk in with the combo described, open the jacket to vent and begin drying it as I was sorting out gear. Then pop on an outer shell and I was pretty much dry.

The odour wasn’t too bad after several days of wear. It wasn’t as good as Merino but it wasn’t too bad that I couldn’t go to the pub for a beer after a day out. It washed really well, I just chucked it with everything else on a 40 degree wash, no special washing was needed.

The styling was very good, nice and athletic with the Adidas stripes under the arm and down the sides of the torso and a bright Adidas logo on the left chest. Nice, discreet and not at all flashy. All seams were flatlock both inside and out and the stitching looked very high quality. Strangely the Adidas website only offers black for sale but my sample was a lovely deep red.

The sleeves had elasticated cuffs and could be pulled up to half my forearms for rock climbing, the top was very nice for rock climbing with great freedom of movement and no rise under a harness. I would have liked to see thumb loops just to help my hands a little warmer under gloves.

The jacket had 2 hand warmer pockets, situated at abdominal level. They were too low to be accessible under a harness and I found them pretty much redundant for all the activities I used the fleece for. I would have much preferred a single, large Napoloen style pocket on the chest area. This would have been much more useful for storing my camera, compass or energy bar to be accessible en route.

I have used the adidas Terrex Fleece for Winter Climbing, Trail Running, Hiking and Rock Climbing and found it a highly versatile top. Stylish, functional and it has performed really well in all my mountain activities.  If Adidas could ditch the pockets and replace them with a single napoleon, add thumbloops to the sleeves and add a hood then it would certainly be up there with the main climbing mid layers and be a brilliant top.

RRP £75.00

Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Arc’teryx Aristo Pants – Climbing Gear Review
1 May 2013, 5:00 pm





CGR test out whether the Arc’teryx are as good for climbing in as they are for going down the pub. Performance *****

Style ****

Value***

The Arc’teryx Aristo Pants are part of the new 24 range designed to be as good for casual wear as they are for climbing in. The first thing I noticed was the cut, they were a very modern, casual cut and felt great on. They have had nothing but admiring comments every time I’ve worn them. These are ideal for casual wear and will look great whether you are wearing them on the crag or the college campus. They would be suitable for all casual occasions – even work if you are lucky enough.

Arc’teryx Aristo pants – great for chilly bouldering days. So a baggy, modern fit; don’t expect an athletic Alpine fit as you will be disappointed. I drift between a 32” and 34” waist so I ordered a 34”, there are 5 size combinations to choose from. They were a generous fit and I should have opted for a 32”, so I would say they are generously sized. There was plenty of adjustability with the integral waist belt which was sewn into seven bar tacked sections and had a small stainless steel hook to hook into the sections. This worked really well, especially under a harness. This system was so much better than the normal webbed belt and plastic buckle combination. Just the sort of great little innovation that you would expect from a quality company such as Arc’teryx.

There are 3 colours to choose from and I was sent the Nubian Brown – which was a nice colour and complimented most of my other casual climbing wear. The main material is a mixture of cotton, nylon and polysester. Not that you would notice the synthetic materials as the look and feel is exactly like cotton canvas, the addition of the synthetic materials is to improve the durability. The material felt satisfyingly thick and heavy duty, the trusty CGR scales weighed them in at 625g. They just washed with a normal 40 degree wash but they did need ironing!

The Arc’teryx Aristo Pants are not the sort of trousers you would want to walk in to a mountain route though, so they are more for bouldering, sport and outcrop climbing.

The large diamond gusset was great wide steps and bridging. There was a double layer of material at the knees and they were articulated so provided good movement for high steps. The crotch had a large and well sewn diamond gusset which made bridging a dream. They were an ideal pant for bouldering in and performed best in bouldering and sport climbing. I didn’t really like them for trad as I feel I need something slimmer in fit. All the models come with an inside leg measurement of 84cms (33”), this was very long and I found I had to roll the legs up. Many of the seams were double stitched with a very high stitch count – as you would expect from Arc’teryx. They had a branded push stud closure on the waist with further branding on the thigh.

All the high wear areas were bar tacked for extra durablity, these were sewn with orange cotton which added a little bit of colour. The fly zip was a standard YKK and worked well even with a harness on. The pants come with a whopping six pockets, two front, two back and two thigh. The front pockets were nice and big, I would have liked to have had a small zipped security pocket for car keys inside it, but they were plenty deep enough to keep hands warm on a chilly day. The back pockets were very big – I often found they had a lot of chalk in them after climbing. The two thigh pockets were also large enough to fit topos and all sorts of stuff in them. They zipped closed into the seam and you wouldn’t notice they were there until you needed them. The zip was a reversed YKK Vislon zip in a material that was the same colour.

The Arc’teryx Aristo Pants – the perfect bouldering trousers. The Arc’teryx Aristo Pants have been a fantastic pair of trousers easily worn for climbing as well as socially, they have recieved many compliments and feel great great on. They have performed in most of the climbing situations I have used them in but my favourite has been bouldering and I used them exclusively for this all spring. In fact I hardly taken then off; another great offering from Arc’teryx. They are probably £15 more than other brands of climbing trousers but you’re not going to need to buy another pair for a considerable amount of time.

RRP £85.00

Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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The North Face Infiesto – Climbing Gear Review
6 May 2013, 10:51 am



CGR tests the new Infiesto midlayer to see if they climb like the Pou brothers!

The North Face® Men’s Infiesto Full Zip is a technical Polartec® Power Dry® mid-weight fleece for layering or next to skin wear. This fleece wicks moisture effectively and is fast drying so it is ideal for aerobic use and sweating and wet weather use, particularly as a mountain and alpine climbing jacket

Performance ***

Style ****

Value ***

We have been impressed with the The North Face, they have made strident efforts to get the Summit Series fit for purpose – that is technical clothing for serious mountain adventures. It’s fitting that the guides at Glenmore Lodge (one of the UK’s top Mountain Training Centres) have chosen the Summit Series for their kit.

The North Face Infiesto is a technical midlayer designed for aerobic use, so that’s how I tested it. I also tested it in rock and winter climbing situations to see if it was suitable for climbing in.

The North Face Infiesto, great for sweaty winter walk ins. Although it is marketed as a fleece and the Infiesto is styled as a  fleece, the material doesn’t feel like a traditional ‘furry’ fleece material; in fact it is not made of fleece material at all. I would say it is an expedition weight midlayer top. This is how I used it with a baselayer t-shirt or thin merino wool with the Infiesto on top; I did have to wear a fleece and a hard or softshell for winter climbing. For late season or continental ice I wore a softshell vest instead of the fleece and a hardshell. This worked fine and felt warm and comfortable, I used this combination on breezy spring rock climbing days too.

I tested a sample sized Medium, the sizes come S-XL. I’m about a 40” chest and the fit was nice an athletic, it hugged quite snug, this is important for wicking. The length felt a little long (I’m 1.75m (5’9”) and so did the sleeves. If you are 5’ 11” (1.8m) it will fit you fine.

The jacket has a full zip which I found very useful for extra venting. I do like a full zip as it makes removing the top easy to remove when it was damp. The zip is YKK and worked really well, the tab could have been a little bigger to make it easier to work with thin gloves – but I didn’t have any problems it. The top was easy to wash – I just stuck it in with everything else and it was dry after 20 minutes on the line.

The North Face Infiesto – a great cut for climbing. The super classic Scratch Arete at Tremadog. The North Face have opted to use branded materials on most of the Summit Series so the Infiesto was made using Polartec Powerdry, this is a tried a tested material and performed really well. The weave was gridded with a flat face on the inner, this made it very comfortable next to my skin and very, very breathable. The Infiesto was great as an approach top and I used it mostly for winter climbing, mountaineering and running where it performed very well. It was very breathable and dried out quickly, even under a hardshell. The top was not windproof at all, so an extra layer needs to be worn in order for those breezy days.

The collar was long enough to keep the warmth in and had a double layer of Powerdry to help stiffen it. The collar, sleeves and hem were all piped in a more harder wearing material. There is no hem cinch, which isn’t needed on this type of top; there is also a reflective TNF logo on the left chest and a Summit Series logo and copy on the arm. There is a handy hang tab for the drying room.  The colour range is three colours a light blue, a darker blue and a bright green, all the colours have black trim in the high sweat areas. All seams were flatlock and the stitching was high quality, I particularly liked the fact that TNF had taken the trouble to bar tack the zip ends, a nice quality touch.

The jacket also comes with two handwarmer pockets and it’s these I had a problem with in the situations I tested it in. I can understand the need for pockets – they are very useful, but on this type of active top I feel a single, large Napoleon chest pocket would be more useful. I can put my camera, energy bar or compass in it for mountain activities or I can put my phone or mp3 player when running. The pockets were not accessible at all with a harness on.

I have used this top for winter climbing, trail running, hiking and fair weather rock climbing and it has performed great for all those activities. It breathes really well and dries out superfast (and I mean superfast, half the time of a merino top). It is durable and easy to wash, it’s a go anywhere top. If  The North Face can sort out the pockets it will be brilliant, and can we have a hooded version please?

RRP £75.00

Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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The North Face Anti-Matter Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
9 May 2013, 3:48 pm



CGR test the new ultralight climbing hardshell from The North Face®. Performance *****

Style ****

Value ***

The North Face® Anti-Matter Jacket is a lightweight Summit Series windproof and hooded, helmet compatible soft shell alpine jacket.

The North Face® continue to produce their Summit Series range of clothing designed by climbers for climbers. This time they have produced a super light hardshell that is great for climbing in. In 2012 I stated that I didn’t wear hardshells for climbing in and they tended to stay in the bottom of my pack until it rained but… I have had a change of heart. There are many benefits to using a hardshell for climbing in and the new breed of lightweight shell make it very easy to do so. They are 100% windproof, they are lighter than a softshell and it’s easier to regulate you temperature when on a big multi-pitch route. I’ve found that since using a hardshell more often on mountain routes I am warmer and more comfortable.

The North Face® Anti-Matter – great for those damp walk ins. Firstly, The North Face® pointed out that the jacket is not guaranteed waterproof, so let’s look at the materials. The jacket is made from Goretex Windstopper, it’s mostly 2 layer Windstopper with the shoulders and outside arm areas in 3 layer, these are the areas that are exposed to abrasion when climbing so you have some extra durability in those areas. This hybrid construction has made the jacket very light. The North Face® state the Anti-Matter Jacket is 319g, the trusty CGR scales weighed it in at 305g! So although the jacket isn’t guaranteed waterproof, it’s certainly showerproof to rainproof. The majority of the seams are taped, there are two areas that aren’t: in the hood where there is a folded, sen seam and in the waist area. Both of these areas are covered by firstly a climbing helmet and secondly a climbing harness. I used the jacket in a variety of showery and rainy conditions including assessing, training and group work as well as my own personal climbing and it hasn’t really leaked anywhere that I would notice. I suppose if I stood out in a complete deluge for a hour those seams might just leak through, but to be honest I’d be back at the car by then.  One issue I had was that the material around the harness is the 2 layer when it could have been three layer, this would help the durability more when using climbing hardwear.

A good cut for climbing freedom The materials make The North Face© Anti-Matter Jacket  very compressible and it took up very little room in the pack, it was ideal for big days out, especially winter when space is at a premium.  The styling was great for climbing in, it was an Alpine fit and there was no rise when worn with a harness. The beatheability was very good on walk ins, this was aided by the addition of pit zips that were also pockets. This was a great innovation, the shape of the zip was diagonal, it starts at the armpit then ends at position of a normal pocket.  I soon found out that I needed to remember to have the zip pulls at the bottom otherwise it caused some frustration when I needed to get some gloves or energy bar. The pockets were plenty big enough to fit maps in as well as gloves, compass, GPS, etc. The hood was the best hood I have used on any jacket for a long time – it was brilliant and deserved the 5 star rating alone. This is an area that many manufacturers get wrong and I could see that The North Face® had spent time trying to get it right. It was a dream to wear with a helmet on, it’s really good to see that The North Face® have wired hood on all the Summit Series hardshells. It does make a difference and I don’t understand why manufacturers can’t use them. The peak was further enhanced by by the elasticated hood adjustment. The small elasticated ‘skirt’, when adjusted to my helmet just tucked under the helmet brim and presto! The helmet was locked in place and needed no further adjustment .  The toggles are hidden in the jacket, this aids styling but makes it awkward to find them, especially with gloves on. Since I have adjusted the hood to fit with my helmet on, I’ve just left it at that and it also seems to fit without one on.

The North Face® Anti-matter had one of the best hoods I’ve used for a while. The sleeves were taped and a good length, not too long. The ends were large enough to tuck winter climbing gloves underneath them and cinched tight enough to tuck them into belay gloves. They had moulded cuff tabs, but I didn’t see any advantages to these over a material one.  The zips were YKK Aquaguard, they are taped and had a good sized draft guard. They worked every time and never got caught (I am often zipping and unzipping as I keep my gloves inside my jacket and not in pockets). The chin guard and back of the collar had a laminated brushed microfleece layer to help comfort. Even though I would like to see some extra durability in the waist area and the pockets were not as easy to use as I would have liked them to be. I have no hesitation in giving The North Face® Anti-Matter Jacket 5 stars, it has performed well for me throughout the winter season. And has quickly become a favourite item of clothing, I suspect it will become my Alpine favourite this summer too.

RRP £300 Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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The North Face and CGR Spring Climbing Photo Comp – Climbing Gear News
10 May 2013, 1:46 pm

 The sun has been shining lately, perfect for getting out climbing with the camera and getting fantastic photos to enter into our Spring Photo Comp with prizes from The North Face.  



Entry into the competition is simple. Head over to our Facebook Page and “like” it if you haven’t done already. And then post your best climbing photo on our wall. The photo must be your own work and be climbing themed. E.g. it must contain somebody actually climbing. This can be any climbing from bouldering to drytooling but not be a walking or landscape shot.

If you’re not into Facebook you can still enter by emailing your image to us at gearreviewsuk@gmail.com Just mark it TNF Photo Comp.

At the end of May we will choose our favourite 5 images and pass them on to The North Face staff to choose 2 winners.

Each one will win a prize. Prize 1 is a TNF wallet, chalk bag and bottle and Prize 2 is a TNF wallet, chalk bag and pair of socks.

Entries are limited to 1 per person and entry is open until midnight on 31st May 2013. The winners will be notified during the first week of June.

 



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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adidas Fast R GTX Shoes – Climbing Gear Review
18 May 2013, 8:30 am

Move fast on the mountain in the men’s adidas Terrex Fast R shoes. They feature a TRAXION™ outsole with Continental™ rubber for optimal grip and a low-to-the-ground construction supported by a new 3D FORMOTION™ unit for great stability on rough terrain.

Performance****

Style****

Value***

I’ve worn a great deal of approach shoes in my time as a gear tester, from dedicated approach shoes from climbing shoe manufacturers to trainer type approach shoes. The adidas Fast R GTX fit into the trainer type, the style is very similar to the Salamon XA Pro but the build is much more rugged.

In some ways I prefer the trainer style of shoe for approach, they are lighter and often a more comfortable wear. Especially on a long mountain day when I can in the shoes for more time than climbing. I have been a advocate of lightweight running shoes for all my summer mountain days for some time now – and I spend a long time in the mountains during the summer for both work and recreation.

Firstly, they are very light. The official weight for a UK8.5 is 370g the trusty CGR scales weighed them in at  380g so that’s not too bad. They felt very light on, I could happily wear them all day and not notice them on. The lighness was also noticeable in my pack when I was carrying them on routes.  The uppers are made from a close weave mesh, the Gore-Tex sock and a lightweight liner. I’ve worn these all season and they have no holes in them yet, in fact the upper are showing very little signs of wear.  Extra durability is provided by a tougher plastic neatly incorporated into thye adidas three stripes, the toe area was further beefed up with chunky rubber toe box.

My heel was held firmly in place with a rigid heel cup which did a great job of holding my heel in place on all sorts of rough terrain and my achilles were comfortable with the cupped achilles support. This was well padded and didn’t give me any blisters even after completing the Yorkshire 3 Peaks in them. So a rugged top section easily withstood the knocks of a mountain day. They were also very comfortable for scree approaches and other steep ground.

adidas Fast R – great on rocky ground The sole unit was cushioned using ‘adiPRENE’ – adidas’ own cushioning material and the cushion was covered with a very grippy rubber  sole made by the German tyre manufacturer Continental. Now they should know a thing or two about rubber technology so I was expecting to be impressed….and I was. These shoes have some of the grippiest sole units I have ever tested on a trainer or approach shoe. They gripped dry rock so much that it was easy to trip up when descending steep ground so I had to be careful, they were brilliant. On wet ground they were just as good and as long as I didn’t hit wet lichen I felt secure. A good sole unit and one I feel will last a long time due to the aggressive tread design. The only point of note was the separate heel, it was separate from the main sole. I think the purpose of this was to increase the suspension on the heel strike but to be honest I don’t think it added to the overall performance very much and could definitely be an area where the durability could fail.

adidas Fast R were a great running shoe. The shoes were waterproof due to the Gore-Tex liner. I’m generally on-off as to whether a Gore-Tex sock is a plus or a minus in shoes. They offer some degree of dryness and the adidas Fast R kept my feet dry in most crag approach situations. But when hiking or running on very wet ground the shoes eventually leaked through the top so on very wet days I still had to wear a pair of Sealskinz. On hot days the sock impairs breathability and feet get sweaty which can cause blisters, but to be fair although my feet go hot they didn’t get too sweaty and I never got any blisters at all when I tested them.

The tongue was finished with more adiPRENE foam, this help prevent grit from getting in. It worked quite well and was very comfortable. The lace system was similar to the Salamon X as, a thin, tough lace that is tightened with a locking toggle. The toggle worked fine and never came loose. The excess lace was kept in place using the lace bungee and this was fine in hiking and climbing approach but when running it became a nuisance as it kept coming out of the bungee or it slipped down the bungee. The lace will also wear through the fabric eyes, eventually. It has to as the lace itself is tougher than the eye fabric. The top eyelet is a ringed hole, but most of the run is made through the eye below that. I know this as I have had two pairs of Salamons before and several pairs of approach shoes with fabric eyelets and they have all worn through. This is a definite weakness in the shoe design and I feel that adidas should revert back to a standard lace design.

So, the adidas Fast R GTX is great all round mountain shoe that will serve you well in all situations, not the sort of shoe you are going to feel comfortable on technical ground, but they will be fine for grade 1 scrambles, technical crag approaches, hiking and running. So a very versatile all mountain shoe that will serve you well for a variety of mountain uses.

RRP £130 non Gore-Tex £110

Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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adidas Terrex Fast R GTX Shoes – Climbing Gear Review
18 May 2013, 8:30 am

Move fast on the mountain in the men’s adidas Terrex Fast R shoes. They feature a TRAXION™ outsole with Continental™ rubber for optimal grip and a low-to-the-ground construction supported by a new 3D FORMOTION™ unit for great stability on rough terrain.

Performance****

Style****

Value***

I’ve worn a great deal of approach shoes in my time as a gear tester, from dedicated approach shoes by climbing shoe manufacturers to trainer type approach shoes. The adidas Fast R GTX fits into the trainer type, the style is very similar to the Salamon XA Pro but the build is much more rugged.

In some ways I prefer the trainer style of shoe for approach, they are lighter and often a more comfortable wear. Especially on a long mountain day when I can be in the shoes for more time than climbing. I have been a advocate of lightweight running shoes for all my summer mountain days for some time now – and I spend a long time in the mountains during the summer for both work and recreation.

Firstly, they are very light. The official weight for a UK8.5 is 370g the trusty CGR scales weighed them in at  380g so that’s not too bad. They felt very light when wearing them, I could happily wear them all day and not notice them on. The lightness was also noticeable in my pack when I was carrying them on routes.  The uppers are made from a close weave mesh, the Gore-Tex sock and a lightweight liner. I’ve worn these all season and they have no holes in them yet, in fact the uppers are showing very little signs of wear.  Extra durability is provided by a tougher plastic neatly incorporated into the adidas three stripes, the toe area was further beefed up with chunky rubber toe box.

My heel was held firmly in place with a rigid heel cup which did a great job of holding my heel in place on all sorts of rough terrain and my achilles were comfortable with the cupped achilles support. This was well padded and didn’t give me any blisters even after completing the Yorkshire 3 Peaks in them. So a rugged top section easily withstood the knocks of a mountain day. They were also very comfortable for scree approaches and other steep ground.

adidas Fast R – great on rocky ground The sole unit was cushioned using ‘adiPRENE’ – adidas’ own cushioning material and the cushion was covered with a very grippy rubber  sole made by the German tyre manufacturer Continental. Now they should know a thing or two about rubber technology so I was expecting to be impressed….and I was. These shoes have some of the grippiest sole units I have ever tested on a trainer or approach shoe. They gripped dry rock so much that it was easy to trip up when descending steep ground so I had to be careful, they were brilliant. On wet ground they were just as good and as long as I didn’t hit wet lichen I felt secure. A good sole unit and one I feel will last a long time due to the aggressive tread design. The only point of note was the separate heel, it was separate from the main sole. I think the purpose of this was to increase the suspension on the heel strike but to be honest I don’t think it added to the overall performance very much and could definitely be an area where the durability could fail.

adidas Fast R were a great running shoe. The shoes were waterproof due to the Gore-Tex liner. I’m generally on-off as to whether a Gore-Tex sock is a plus or a minus in shoes. They offer some degree of dryness and the adidas Fast R kept my feet dry in most crag approach situations. But when hiking or running on very wet ground the shoes eventually leaked through the top so on very wet days I still had to wear a pair of Sealskinz. On hot days the sock impairs breathability and feet get sweaty which can cause blisters, but to be fair although my feet go hot they didn’t get too sweaty and I never got any blisters at all when I tested them.

The tongue was finished with more adiPRENE foam, this help prevent grit from getting in. It worked quite well and was very comfortable. The lace system was similar to the Salamon X as, a thin, tough lace that is tightened with a locking toggle. The toggle worked fine and never came loose. The excess lace was kept in place using the lace bungee and this was fine in hiking and climbing approach but when running it became a nuisance as it kept coming out of the bungee or it slipped down the bungee. The lace will also wear through the fabric eyes, eventually. It has to as the lace itself is tougher than the eye fabric. The top eyelet is a ringed hole, but most of the run is made through the eye below that. I know this as I have had two pairs of Salamons before and several pairs of approach shoes with fabric eyelets and they have all worn through. This is a definite weakness in the shoe design and I feel that adidas should revert back to a standard lace design.

So, the adidas Fast R GTX is great all round mountain shoe that will serve you well in all situations, not the sort of shoe you are going to feel comfortable on technical ground, but they will be fine for grade 1 scrambles, technical crag approaches, hiking and running. So a very versatile all mountain shoe that will serve you well for a variety of mountain uses.

RRP £130 non Gore-Tex £110

Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Haglöfs Spire Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
28 May 2013, 9:04 am



CGR reviewer Dave Sarkar puts the new Haglöfs Spire jacket through some mountain challenges.

A reinforced Gore-Tex® Active Shell Jacket that is extremely breathable and durable, with details such as mountain helmet compatible hood and two chest pockets.

Performance***

Style*****

Value for Money ****

Haglöfs are a quality Swedish brand that have been producing mountain equipment since 1914. They are very popular in Scandinavia and have been available in the UK for quite a while.

We mentioned their new Spring collection for climber earlier in the year and having interviewed the UK team and viewed the climbing collection we can vouch for their dedication to producing equipment for climbers that is fit for purpose.

The Haglöfs Spire Jacket is a climbing specific hardshell made from Gore-Tex Active Shell that certainly feels like a jacket for climbing in. The shell is a lightweight, 3 layer waterproof garment that is made from 2 different weights of Active Shell. The main body of the jacket is constructed with 30D (Denier – the density of the material) with the shoulder and forearm area reinforced with a more dense fabric of 40D. All the seams are taped so it is guaranteed waterproof by Gore-Tex.

The Haglofs Spire Jacket – breathable for those active walk-ins. The cut was great for climbing in: it was a very athletic fit with minimal additions to get in the way.  The cut was very good with a harness on and I had no rise when climbing in it at all, I felt complete freedom of movement. There were no pit zips which is a good thing, I feel they are not necessary for a climbing jacket as I am often not walking in it. A hardshell often stays in the pack until it gets windy, then I put it on.  I’ve been using the Haglöfs Spire Jacket for most of my climbing/instructing this season and the cut is just right.

The stated weight for a Large was 380g and my test sample sized Medium weighed in at 350g so nice and light. I’m usually a 40” chest and the fit was good for that size – very little play though so try before you buy!

Haglofs Spire Jacket – good for all mountain activities. Haglofs Spire Jacket – great for those windy climbing days. The sleeves were again well styled for climbing with no rise, the sleeve ends were neatly extended with a V patch which was great for tucking gloves in. A good point as sometimes on technical ice I want to have the sleeves over the glove cuffs. The sleeve cuffs were  fastened with sewn Velcro patches – you can tell Haglöfs designers have put some thought into this as it’s often a high wear area and you can often open and close the sleeves as much as the jacket. The fastener was made of a double layer of jacket material and bar tacked to the sleeve.

The hood was helmet compatible although it was not so easy to adjust it on belays, etc as the toggles were not attached to the hood so I needed two hands to adjust the hood. Further adjustment was available at the back where there were two adjusters. The top one cinched the hood to the helmet whist the bottom one adjusted the collar. Once these adjusters were used the hood performed well, but it felt a little over designed for a hardcore climbing jacket. The peak was stiffened and pulled neatly over the helmet.

A good winter climbing jacket, just watch out for those ice screws! At the back of the hood was a rear mounted, large hanging loop which made it easy to dry. It was bar tacked to extra durability, again another nice touch you wouldn’t find on a cheaper jacket. The pockets were well sited and easy to get into with a harness on. There was no inside pocket or Napoleon pocket, this isn’t a major issue as I often just shove gloves and maps down the front when I’m wearing a harness or pack. Haglöfs have been brave with other jackets with the addition of just one pocket on other jackets in their range and I feel that one large pocket on this jacket would have been ideal. The pocket zips were YKK Aquacoil and worked well and the pull tabs were glove friendly.

The hem could be cinched with one hand as the toggles were attached to the jacket, it’s a feature that I occasionally use when it’s cold as you’d be surprised at how much warmer the jacket is when the hem in cinched.  The inside collar had a laminated microfleece layer that felt good against the back of my neck, this is often useful when you have just a baselayer and the jacket on a spring climbing day.

Finally to the main zip and this was a real problem area for me when in use. I am a big zip user when climbing. I open and close the zip often for things like changing gloves as well as accessing maps and guidebooks. Although the zip did a great job of keeping the rain and snow out it felt over engineered on this jacket and I had trouble opening and closing it. The main issue seemed to be something as small and easy to change as the draft guard. The guard wasn’t doubled over to give a complete double layer. It only covered half the guard, this left an area that got caught in the zip. The zip already has a YKK Aquaguard and was covered with extra material, although this offers extra water resistance and an improved  cosmetic appearance it did affect the performance, especially with gloves on.  The problem would be very simple to solve and with this issue resolved the Haglöfs Spire Jacket would be a great all mountain jacket.

RRP £320

Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Gear News – A new type chalk bag from Hanchor.
29 May 2013, 9:41 am



Taiwanese outdoor company Hanchor develop a chalk bag that acts as a chalkball A chalk bag development we think will interest readers comes from an outdoor manufacturer in Taiwan. The bags act as a normal chalkbag dipping your hand in the top and they also have a chalk ball type opening at the  zipped sides. There is another model that has a press stud inner opening to reveal a fine mesh and also acts in chalk ball mode.

Hanchor says: The magic sauce is that we’ve essentially integrated a chalksock into a high quality chalkbag. You get all the benefits of dipping a chalkball without worrying about anything spilling out.

We think they are a well made chalk bag that will prove popular with regular climbing wall users.

For more information check out: http://hanchor.com/en/





Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Haglöfs Roc 35 Pack – Climbing Gear Review
3 June 2013, 4:47 pm





CGR tests out the updated Roc 35 pack from Swedish company Haglöfs Performance****

Style****

Value ****

An all-purpose mountain pack that is versatile enough to work well in almost every climbing challenge. A clean, minimalist design makes it an appreciated crag climbing backpack, while its ability to carry winter mountain gear qualifies ROC for all-season use.

 I first reviewed the Haglöfs Roc 35 in June 2009 for UKC. At that time I concluded it is was… a great all mountain sack. It fits like a dream and swallows kit. It will fulfil all your requirements for a variety of mountain adventures and will last you years. Do all the fancy extras warrant the extra price tag and weight? No, it’s not the perfect sack and so the quest continues.

We recently were sent the updated version for 2013 so I was very keen to see what improvements they had made to what I have come to consider is a very good pack.

The Roc 35 marks 1 and 2. Firstly the pack is much lighter, it originally weighed in at 1.5kgs –  the trusty CGR scales weighed it in at 1.35kg so much lighter and it felt it too. They have lighten the weigh by removing simplifying the lid zip, removing all steel items such as the ski retainers and replacing them with plastic ones.

The Haglöfs Roc 35 has retained all the great features of the original and the more I use it the more I like them: Originally I though the lid was over complicated – but I have come to like the extra little pocket at the back as I keep specific items in them that can be easily accessed such as sun and lip bloc, compass, glasses, etc. The main lid is still big enough for hat, gloves, buff, energy bars, etc. The inside lid had a key fob and was plenty big enough to store a camera, wallet and phone.



The lid was the floating style and could be adjusted by the very clever system of combining the lid and shoulder strap adjustment into one unit. This means that when the lid is removed for climbing there are no straps dangling around. A great design feature. Although I should add 2 points: the system is fiddly to operate in the field, especially with gloves on and the small loop that the straps thread though detached from the main body on the original pack but hopefully it has been reinforced in the updated version.

The Roc 35 was streamlined for climbing. The lid is single closure with a large buckle and I was pleased that they had kept the system of tightening the lid from above, I have found this most useful. The strap can be tidied away with the Hypalon insert and the lid was reinforced with a moulded Delrin rod – an engineering plastic that is used for ski bindings and in the automotive industry.

The shoulder straps were a good fit for my medium frame. I was disheartened to see the branded loop gone – I liked this as I wear my watch/altimeter on the shoulder strap and I was delighted to see a much beefier one on the Haglöfs Roc Hard. The straps were easy to tighten and release and the shoulder. The sternum strap was on rails and was easy to adjust, it had an integrated emergency whistle.

The volume as just as big as the original and it swallowed plenty of kit, I have used it all winter with no problems getting everything in for a winter day. I used the original for my 6 day Stubai Glacier Tour and it was perfect – I easily had the smallest pack in the group and had plenty of clothing and other items. I never felt that I needed a bigger pack. It’s easily big enough for a trad day out and you could fit the kitchen sink in as well if you are sport climbing. Extra volume could be gained from the spindrift collar and it open and closed easily with the one handed system. It still looked as delicate as the original and I’m not sure how long it will last (as the original eventually broke).

The waist belt was exactly the same as the original and had a great tucking in feature that meant is was completely out the way for climbing in and made the pack feel streamlined. It felt great to climb with both for winter and rock climbing. It adjusted to be above my harness and I could access my leading rack easily. The waist bely was reinforced with Hypalon and had hip adjusters either side. Unfortunately still no ice clipper loops – which would be easy to put on and weigh next to nothing, so let’s hope they appear in future updates.

The pack came with a removable aluminium stay and HDPE (High Density Polythene) framesheet. I removed the stay and have kept the framesheet and this works well for me, I used the pack without the stay for the Subai tour and found it great. But, hey it’s removable so you can choose what best suits your frame. It still remains a good and comfortable carry even if it’s on all day – I’ll be trying it out backpacking this spring for expeditions and  assessments.

The Roc 35 was a good rock climbing pack. The ice axe attachment was the sleeve type which I like, it worked well and the elasticated retainers worked well – the hook system did sometimes fill with snow and ice which made it more difficult but I just used them in the traditional way of looping over the toggle itself, which worked fine.

So, the Haglöfs Roc 35  is still a great all mountain pack, it’s bombroof construction and use features will serve you well for many mountain days and longer trips. There are lighter packs in the range but this really is a true all mountain pack. The updates are a good improvement and it will still last you for years. Is it the perfect pack… well no but it’s definitely getting closer!

RRP £120

Stockists.



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Red Chili Spice – Climbing Gear Review
5 June 2013, 5:45 pm





CGR reviewer Katie takes a look at the Red Chili Spice – a female specific rock shoe.

… a radical and uncompromising high-end climbing shoe built on a special female last. Spice doesn’t just look good, it has what it takes. It’s built with a newly developed speed-lacing system, balanced pre-tension and asymetical shape. The midsole is tuned to the climbing style of athletic women.

Value for money *****

Performance ***

Quality ****

Climbing shoes are interesting things.  Some people can chop and change from brand, but most stick with one kind that suits their foot shape.  I’m lucky, I’ve been able to find a perfect shoe from most brands to create a good all round selection.

Red Chili Spice-a nice looking showe The Red Chili Spice is a lovely looking shoe, when I first opened the box I had a nice little coo at them.  I really wanted them to fit well so I could wear them all the time!  I’ll start the review by saying that unfortunately they didn’t really fit me…gutted.  It was close, I have slim feet and even though these are lace ups I still couldn’t pull them tight enough to make my heel stay in.

So what I did was give them a good trial and tried them out in all different climbing situations, but kept in mind that they weren’t a perfect fit.

The Spice is a high end women specific shoe.  Extremely light weight, with a speed lacing system.  The sole is 4.5mm, high end Red Chili RX-2rubber.  So a pretty well thought out shoe, for serious climbers.

I’ll start with the sole; the rubber is hard wearing which is a plus, but this comes hand in hand with not being very sticky; A flat profile, no down turned toes here.  The sole is 4.5mm, to me it feels very thick, which isn’t normally my cup of tea; I like to feel where I’m putting my toes.  I found myself misplacing my feet a lot, and because I couldn’t feel my toes, I didn’t trust them as much.

Saying this, I realised the answer to why I wasn’t getting the most out of these shoes; I don’t do much Trad.  So, off to the crag and a bit of extreme seconding later, I found the reason why these shoes should be bought.  The Red Chili Spice has brilliant precision edges, and any tiny edges you may come across on a climb seem like giant foot holds in them.

The Red Chili Spice – precision edges. The stiffness of the shoe was something I’ve had to get my head around.  A good stiff shoe is just what you need sometimes, so it would definitely be great to have in my repertoire, but for me it isn’t an everyday shoe, I like a bit of soft comfort. To compare them to other shoes on the market, I’d say they were closest to the 5.10 Whites in style, but with a specific women’s fit.

The heel looks like it will be great; I say it like this because my heel won’t stay in.  Now as I’ve said before, I do have slim feet and heels, so anyone who already wears Red Chili’s or has broad feet will probably find them great.  It is a comfortable heel and the rubber finish at the back is in the perfect spot for heel hooking (which a lot of brands get wrong).   It’s finished well, and there have been no signs of peeling.

I’m a UK 4 in most shoes as standard, and I think that goes for the Red Chili’s as well; it’s purely the shape that is wrong for me.  This isn’t a bad quality for the Red Chili Spice, like I said at the start, there are different shoes for different people, we don’t all have the same shaped feet.

A great lasting, all round climbing shoe. The shape of the shoe hasn’t changed at all, but then it’s only been 8 weeks, so I can’t guarantee it won’t change.   The speed lacing system is great, they say it’s a ‘new lacing system’ but I’ve seen it around for a long time in other shoes; but it works, it pulls in the shoe evenly and quickly, which is exactly what you want.  The lace itself, although it looks awesome, is a bit slippery and doesn’t grip to itself as well as it should.  This is by no means a deal breaker, just a critical comment from someone reviewing them closely.

The lacing system worked really well. So what is my conclusion of the Red Chili Spice; I think they’ve got it right.  I know they don’t fit me that well, but I can still see where they work and how good they’ll be for people with the right shaped feet.  Don’t go into buying this shoe with a view that it will be an all rounder for all types of climbing, it isn’t.  It’s a stiff shoe, with positive edges, and if that’s all you’re looking for in a shoe, well here’s the one for you;   At around £99.95, they price as well many other modern shoe.

I may have to keep trying with these shoes, not just because they’re so darn pretty, but because I feel like I’d be missing a trick if I didn’t use them to their full potential, which I don’t think I have yet.  Oh well, Trad, here I come….

RRP: £99.95

Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Salewa Firetail GTX – Climbing Gear Review
9 June 2013, 8:50 am

GCR test the new all mountain approach shoe from German gear company Salewa.

A revolutionary generation of approach footwear. The first link between the comfort and lightness of trail runners with the technical features of an alpine approach shoe.

Performance****

Style***

Value for Money****

We’ve been really pleased recently to be reviewing a variety of kit from mainland European manufacturers. Salewa have been one of these – the company’s history dates back to 1935 and was formed in Munich, Germany. They have been producing a vast array of technical alpine and climbing equipment since 1939 to a high quality, as you expect from a German manufacturer. A quick look through the website will show just how extensive their range is. They are huge on the continent and it’s difficult to climb in Europe without seeing someone with Salewa kit.

My trusty Salewa biner-still going strong after 30 years! Indeed, my very first carabiner was a Salewa one; I bought it in 1983 and I still have it (although I use it for keeping my winter pegs on and not for taking whippers!) so the pedigree is solid.

The Firetail GTX approach shoe is one of an extensive range of approach shoes that Salewa offer, I would say they are an all mountain approach shoe and I have been using them all season for scrambling, easy climbs, long walks and instruction work. They have performed very well in all these areas.

The Salewa Firetail GTX – a good all round approach shoe. The style is very much a technical one, with a climbing lace system and narrow toe profile. This profile was ideal for all rock climbing and scrambling activities. Once the lace system was tighten I could climb quite happily all day in them at VDiff and HVD, they were great for my instructional work where I often don’t want to be in climbing shoes. The laces were easy to tighten and loosen (important on descents). It was good to note that the they had proper eyelets and not the fabric ones that seem so popular. All the eyelet areas were reinforced, the three bottom ones with bar tacking, the another 4 with plastic and the top one with thicker plastic and steel – very beefy!

The good climbing sole offers confidence. Climbing on a very polished Milestone Buttress, N.Wales.The narrow profile and climbing lace system was good for climbing. The Firetail GTX toe profile, as I said was narrow but very comfortable. The toe box had a rand but it was only around the toe area . The rand was grippy enough to climb cracks, it was well glued in place and hasn’t yet shown any signs of peeling even though I have used them for quite a while in some demanding situations.

The main fabric for the shoe was a tight weave mesh with a more robust/reinforced mesh around the bottom parts, sole and heel. The shoe had a Gore-Tex sock which helped keep the water out on damp days. Of course they will leak eventually as water creeps over the top, but on those occasions I’ll wear a boot. They felt breathable enough and I never noticed my feet becoming too sweaty even when I’d been wearing them all day. The Silverized treatment meant that the odour was kept at bay, I’ve them several months now and they don’t smell at all. The material on the upper part of the foot was again reinforced with a crisscross pattern.

The tongue, heel and Achilles support were nice and padded, the tongue had further support and padding from a suede patch which is also designed to aid durability. Heel support is provided for with a plastic insert which cupped my heel nice and firm/ Further support was provided for with the 3F system – this comprised of a Y shaped wire (about the thickness of a micro-wire), tethered under the sole arch, it extends around the back of the heel and is tightened with the laces. This is designed to pull the heel in tight and provide support and performance. In practice I wasn’t aware of the benefits: it’s a nice German engineered feature but I’m not so sure it helped me move faster.

Although Salewa stated they were a cross between and running trainer and approach shoe, I didn’t really like running in them. I think, however that Salewa are referring to the styling rather than the running functionality, they are a great walking shoe though.I recently lead a charity Yorkshire 3 Peaks event, a gruelling 23 mile endurance event and wore them on a hot day with no blisters at all, they were ideal for this kind of activity. They were reasonably light and the trusty GCR scales weighed them in at 400g for a UK8. Style wise, they looked OK in casual situations, down the wall, lecturing/training but they didn’t look so good with jeans on in the pub. With technical climbing trousers they looked fine, so you’re going to be fine sipping that après route beer in the bar.

The sole unit was made using Vibram rubber. It had a dotty tread pattern and dedicated climbing zone with a nice, sharp edge for standing on edges and smearing. Vibram climbing rubber is now

The Vibram climbing rubber was sticky enough for rock climbing. very established and the sole was very grippy on rock. The whole sole unit felt very precise and you could tell they had been design for technical approaches to climbs and scrambling.  The heel had a PU shock absorber unit that kept heel strikes comfortable and there was more Vibram climbing rubber in this area. Further support was given under the arch with a shaped and stiff EVA midsole, my foot really did feel well supported.

There was a pull tab at the back, this was big enough to get a carabiner in for attachment to my harness but I would have liked to have seen in bigger and beefier. As a dedicated climbing approach shoe, I would like to have seen a system that could be easily used with carabiners to clip into a belay loop, pack and harness. It just didn’t look beefy enough: a minor point in what has proved to be a great all mountain shoe. The Salewa Firetail GTX approach shoes are ideal for all mountain activities from approach to hiking and instructional type work.

The styles come in men and womens versions as well as a non Gore-Tex model. Sizes UK6-11.5 plus 12 and 13 for men and UK3-9 in half sizes for women.

RRP £119.95

Stockists.



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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adidas Terrex Hybrid Soft Shell Vest-Climbing Gear Review
14 June 2013, 4:25 pm

 CGR tester Dave Sarkar tests the new 5 star, soft shell vest from über company adidas. Performance *****

Style****

Value for Money*****

This men’s adidas Terrex Hybrid Soft Shell Vest features GORE WINDSTOPPER® ACTIVE SHELL in a hybrid construction to keep you moving fast and remaining comfortably protected from the elements. This vest is lightweight and easy to pack.

In 2012 we reviewed the adidas Terrex Hybrid Softshell Jacket, since then adidas have continued to add to the Terrex range and a look through the site will confirm their commitment to a dedicated outdoor range. With such huge resources behind the brand it’s only a matter of time before we start seeing as much of it in the UK as you do over on the European mainland.

the adidas hybrid soft shell vest had great freedom of movement for climbing in. Wind and Wuthering, Malham Cove. What has impressed me in all the Terrex kit I have reviewed in the 2013 Spring range are the clean lines, quality workmanship and use of well performing materials in the clothing; adidas are clearly determined to give all the main outdoor brands a run for their money.

The Terrex Hybrid Soft Shell Vest (or Gillet if you’re country folk) is a sleeveless Windstopper vest that has proved to be a very handy piece of kit. The entire front of the vest is made from Gore-Tex Windstopper Active Shell. This is a lightweight, three layer Windstopper with a light laminated layer on the inside – this helps with wicking and keeps dirt from clogging up the membrane (which affects the breathability of the material) and a carbon fibre style material on the outer which gave it a nice gunmetal finish. The Windstopper was continued onto the shoulder area, the back of the collar and an insert under the armpit down the ribs.

It was great on those breezy days. Clogwyn y Grochan, N.Wales. This had the effect of providing a good windshield where I most needed it, at the front of my body. The rest of the vest was made from adidas’s own soft shell material: a thin and stretchy material that felt similar to Polartec Powershield. This was extremely breathable, quick drying and very light.

The cut was adidas Formation and was great for all the mountain activities I tested it in, there was little rise when under a harness and the vest felt brilliant for climbing in. The sleeves are elasticated and at first I thought it might have been a problem as it could be a little tight under the armpits. I haven’t found that though and it has helped keep some of the warmth in neither has it affected the climbing performance.

The zips were all YKK coil with the main one having a good, solid zip pull that was easy to use with gloves on. The draft guard was Windstopper with a Formotion backing. There is a small breast pocket on the left that was handy for phones, cameras, energy bars, etc. It was not big enough for maps or guidebooks though, this also had a solid zip pull that was great to use.

The vest also had two handwarmer pockets that were styled into the side seams of the vest. These were easy to use and were large enough for gloves, hats, etc. Again the pockets were not large enough for a full OS map but I did find that I could put a map or guidebook in the inside of the jacket on the right hand pocket. With a little bartacking and reinforcement this would be ideal. The pockets had restricted access with a harness on, but then it’s not specifically designed for just climbing in. The hem has one handed cinches which were easy to use with the micro toggles and also had a press stud closure. The collar had a nice, comfortable brushed liner that wicked sweat very quickly.

The soft shell material was very quick to dry, after arriving at the crag and taking off my pack the jacket dried off in about 15 minutes. There was a reflective adidas logo above the breast pocket and further reflective Windstopper and Terrex logos near the waist. The adidas three stripes branding was on the shoulder, I really liked the style although it’s not the sort of vest I will be using for indoor training/lectures or casually as it looks too technical, but outdoors it looks great. The vest felt very light and compressible – the trusty CGR scales weighed it in at a mere 250g. It packed down to nothing in the pack.

I have no reservations in awarding the adidas Hybrid Softshell Vest 5 stars, it has been the most versatile piece of clothing I have worn this season. I have used it for everything: winter climbing, trad, sport climbing, bouldering, running and hiking and it has performed really well in all those activities, if I mountain biked I would use it for that as well! It was particularly good for winter approach and felt great under a full softshell or hardshell as an extra layer.

adidas Terrex Hybrid Soft Shell – great for long days out in the mountains The jacket compressed well but to be honest once I had it on I tended to keep it on all day, so although it might feel a little expensive for a vest it is extremely versatile and you will find yourself wearing it all the time; definitely Editors Choice for Spring 2013.

RRP £75.00

Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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The North Face Gentle Stretch Cami and Krank Pants – Climbing Gear Review
19 June 2013, 6:26 pm





CGR reviewer Katie takes a  look at the new summer wear from The North Face. (top)Value for money *****

(pant)Value for money ****

(both)Performance *****

(both)Quality *****

Rains pouring down outside, there’s a cold wind blowing and I have just opened a parcel that contains the brightest things I’ve seen in about 7 months!

I’ve been given the new season The North Face Krank pants and Gentle Stretch Cami to try out.  Obviously I’ve had to wait a few weeks to try them out without catching pneumonia, but the time finally came, and I was straight out in them.

The North Face Krank pants- gave great freedom to climb in. I’ll start with the Gentle Stretch Cami.    The cami is as it says, lovely and soft, made from cotton with a dab of elastane for stretch.  It comes in five colours, with mine being Fuschia, a really nice vibrant colour that hasn’t faded after a number of washes.  Washing wise, I’ve had it on a purely normal wash with other things and it’s stayed the same, no bobbling or stretching.

The back has cross over straps which look pretty and are a nice change, but it does dig in a bit on the cross over.  When wearing the cami without other items on top there is no issue with pressure on the spine, but under a couple of layers I could feel it pressing in a bit.  When worn with a cross back bra it’s pretty uncomfortable.

The North Face Gentle Stretch Cami – comes in 5 colours But this cami is part of the collection based on Kalymnos climbing, so bearing this in mind, you’d probably be wearing a bikini top, or nothing underneath.  It has a built in shelf bra support so this may be enough for you; and it hasn’t ruined the top for me at all, I just modify what I wear with it.

The Gentle Stretch Cami is £24.00, a pretty standard price for a nice top.  It’s good quality and fits well.  I’m a size 6-8 top and I got an XS, this fitted me perfectly.

The second item was the Krank pant.  A climbing specific pant that caters for boulderers too big wall climbers.

They come in two colours, I received the Flamenco blue but they also come in a more subdued purple grey (grand purple).  They are definitely eye catching and coordinate surprisingly well with most things.

The trousers are made from VapourWick stretch Nylon, and they are great; you wouldn’t have better movement if you only had underpants on!  They have a diamond crotch and elasticated waist.  The waist band is probably the only minor negative; it’s quite thick and pulls the trousers up higher round your waist as you climb.  I have the XS size and I’m a 8-10 in trousers.  I think they fit well, but maybe if I’d gone up a size the waist wouldn’t be an issue at all.  They have articulated knees which add to the free movement, and UPF 50 sun protection, maybe not as necessary here but in a hotter climate well needed.

Nicely placed pockets on front and back, and draw cords on the ankles for anti snagging finish off a well thought out pair of climbing pants.

The VapourWick Nylon is meant to draw excess moisture to regulate body temperature, I can’t really say if it works or not but I’ll take TNF’s word for it.

Obviously I was pretty keen to try the Krank pants out, so I was a little gung-ho at times with the weather.  I went out a couple of times in them when it turned out it wasn’t quite as sunny as I’d hoped; but I was really surprised as to how much they kept out the wind!

I’ve enjoyed wearing them a lot and because they’re so light and take up so little space, I take them with me everywhere, just in case it turns out to be a sunny day.

TNF Krank pants – light and compressible. These are the things that make a good item of climbing clothing; durability, flexibility, light weight and comfortable; the Krank pants are all of the above.

The cost of The North Face Krank Pants is £70.00, a bit more than the average climbing pant, but around the same as some of the more designery brands.  I think if you spent £70.00 on them you wouldn’t be disappointed.  They do everything they say they do, which is refreshing, and they won’t go unnoticed by others! I wore the cami and pants together and was asked if I’d come straight from the 70’s -I take that as a compliment ; )

RRP Gentle Stretch Cami £24.00, Krank Pants £70.00

Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Red Chili Nacho – Climbing Gear Review
23 June 2013, 8:47 am





CGR reviewer Dave Sarkar relives his glory days with the Red Chili Nacho Performance ****

Style ***

Value for Money ****

The Nacho is a full-blooded slipper and perfects Red Chili’s high-end segment of climbing shoes. As we would expect from a slipper, the Nacho has a very soft and sensitive sole construction.

Slippers go back a long way, they were very popular in the late 80’s when Boreal bought out their eponymous Ninjas. I remember doing laps on Raindogs in Ninjas, I thought (at the time) they were the ultimate climbing shoe. Since then slippers have come and gone and they have been largely replaced with Velcro fastening shoes. But they are making a comeback and some die hards would argue they never went away.

It was a real delight to test a pair of Red Chili Nachos as it gave me a chance to pretend I was in my twenties again and training on 8a’s at Malham.  They certainly looked the part straight out the box. They are a fully elasticated and enclosed slipper and in true 80’s style it took me a full two weeks of wearing them in plastic bags before I could get them on. I initially received a pair in a UK7 but I had to exchange them for my normal rock shoe size of a UK7.5.

Smearing smooth on Mr.Smooth. Caley Boulders Once I had broken them in I have been able to get them on and off quite quickly, except when my feet are hot, then they take a bit of squeezing into this is because of the fit. The fit is aggressive and asymmetrical, but overly radical. The toe area is flat (that is the toe doesn’t point down) and the profile is narrow. The heel is fully encased in rubber and well fitted, there was some space between the shoe and my heel but this was minimal and I never felt any creep when heel hooking. As I said earlier they took a little effort to get on and the best method I found was to put the shoe on the ground and force my feet into the toe area whilst pulling on the heel tabs, there are three large, handy tabs to help pull the shoe over the foot and bring the shoe into place.

The styling on the Red Chili Nacho was very modern and loud, lots of red and white with plenty of graphic detail gave it a very edgy (excuse the pun) appearance. Very grungy and subculture like, which is exactly what what bouldering is! They did draw some comments on the crag but then I hang out with old skool climbers a lot and not so many young dudes! Younger climbers will like the styling and they didn’t stay white very long.

I thought the fit was very good and found none of the movement that was typical in the old type slippers. The shoe was held firmly in place using a double layer of elastic. The fold was quite clever with its slight change of angle thereby helping to have the elastic working in two directions. The cover was nice and high, it needs to be in slippers as there in no lacing. It came right up the midtarsal joint of the foot. There was also a layer of rand that wrapped around the heel to help keep the heel in place.

A good heel profile was great for hooking. Caley boulders. Still in good shape after several months of use. The main material is rubber Red Chili Super Friction RX-2 (more on this later) , there is a full rand, the extra around the Achilles area and the toe area is almost entirely encased in rubber except for a small area around the little toe. The only reason I can think of as to why this area has been left uncovered is because the little toe tends to be very scrunched up in climbing shoes and leaving the area without rubber could alleviate the pain. The rest of the shoe was made up of synthetic leather and the large patches of elastic. The shoe was fully lined, not with canvas, but a softer pile lining that helped make the shoe quite nice on. They have not been smelly at all which you can sometimes get with a synthetic material. The top of the shoe was finished with piping around the Achilles area.  The fit around the Achilles was comfortable, I have had no issues with rubbing in this area.

So that’s the fit and the materials so how about the performance? The Red Chili Nacho is marketed as a bouldering shoe and that’s how I’ve used them most of the time. I’ve used them at Malham and Kilnsey, I felt they performed a little better on the steeper routes at Kilnsey. They edged OK at Malham but my feet got tired after a couple of routes in them. Now to the bouldering, for this activity they excelled the fit was great for gritsone and the 4.5mm RX-2 rubber sole was very grippy. The thickness and duarability are just right, I have been using them for several months now and the shoes still have a good edge.

The Red Chili Nachos performed well on steep limestone. Parisellas Cave, Pen Trywn. I was happy bouldering on both steep ground and slabs, the edges were good and the toe profile precise. At first I thought they were quite stiff (too stiff for grit) but after a month or so they have softened up nicely. They come with a very thin midsole and this has help retain some lateral stiffness in the sole and prevent them going too floppy. They have also been good on limestone bouldering, even the hideously polished Minus Ten Wall at Stoney was OK as long as I kept the rubber dry and clean. The toe profile and rubber meant that toe hooks could be dispensed with precisely and I felt no real creep when ‘scumming’ rock and what creep I did feel was more my lack of power than anything else.

I’ve also used them at the bouldering wall all spring and they have performed great, I can see them performing just as well on leading routes (I haven’t been indoors very much this spring as I’m very close to some great bouldering and limestone climbing). So, in conclusion, the Red Chili Nachos have been a great climbing shoe to use, I have used them for a variety of bouldering situations and they have performed brilliantly for this activity. They will be fine for short sport climbs but your feet may get tired on longer more vertical ones, they would be fine on very steep stalactite cave routes. If you find lace-ups and velcro shoes a pain and like the slipper style you’ll like these.

SRP £##.##

Stockists



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Black Diamond Half Dome – Climbing Gear Review
26 June 2013, 5:39 pm

  CGR tests out the new and re-vamped Half Dome helmet from Black Diamond.

Completely redesigned from the ground up…the Half Dome is an all-purpose workhorse ideal for everything from trad cragging to alpine expeditions.

Style****

Performance****

Value*****

I have been a helmet user for some time now, I wear one when instructing, coaching and guiding as well as personally in the mountains and for all winter climbing.

I have used both types of helmet – the high density extruded foam type such as the Black Diamond Meteor and the ABS type like the Half Dome. For outcrop climbing such as grit and lowland crags I use the Meteor type as the main danger is from banging my head against the rock face when I fall off. In the mountains I prefer the ABS hard shell type as there is an added danger of a rock falling down on me as well as ice in the winter.

BD Half Dome – comfortable and stylish. I have used a Black Diamond Half Dome for some time now as I still have a Mark 1 model. I liked the ease of adjustability and the way it sat tightly on my head without moving – which some other models did.

The new, updated model is real improvement on what was already a very good and popular helmet. The basics are still the same, a moulded ABS shell with a small expended foam crown insert and a cradle. The main changes are the fit and cosmetic detailing and I must say they are a great improvement.

The first point of note is the addition of enlarged ventilation slots, this helps keeps your head cooler and reduces the weight. The slots worked best on windy days and on the occasions I wore the helmet when it was raining I did find some water did find its way through (although I should add I’m often so wet that a bit of water on my head is neither here nor there).

Out with the old and in with the new. Improved styling and ventillation. The styling is also a great improvement on the mark 1, the style looks much more modern and streamlined. There are 5 colours to choose from and 2 sizes so there should a combination that you like. I think this has contributed to more people wearing helmets, more colour choice and better styling means people are more likely to wear one – and that can only be a good thing.

The headtorch clips worked very well at keeping my headtorch in place. I have a lot of trouble with helmets and headtorches in the past and I’m pleased to note that the new clips work much better than the mark 1 clips. They are nicely colour co-ordinated and were easy to locate in the dark as they contrasted with the main helmet colour.

BD Half Dome was good to wear with a pack on. The other main improvement is the fit – this is achieved by the improved cradle which sits nicely under the occipital bone at the back of the skull. Adjustment was very easy using the wheel adjuster, which was great to use, even with my winter climbing gloves on I could adjust the cradle easily as the wheel had some grippy rubber on it.

The side and chin straps were similar to the mark 1 the main change being a buckled chin strap which does away with the double strap and increased the comfort. They were as easy to adjust, but not in the field with gloves so you would need to make sure that it was adjusted to fit before you went out. This is time well spent as once adjusted they stayed in place nicely and I didn’t have that movement where the helmet looks like it’s some sort of comic prop and looks skew whiff as seems to happen on plenty of other sorts of helmets that I’ve used.

All in all the Black Diamond Half Dome is a great, all round helmet. It’s not as stylish as some, it’s heavier than the polystyrene ones but it is more compact and a great improvement on what was already a good helmet. I feel Black Diamond have done a great job in re-vamping the Half Dome and if you looking for a well priced helmet for all seasons then you won’t go far wrong.

RRP £49.99

Stockists.



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Personal Anchor Systems – a CGR buyers’ guide
29 June 2013, 9:15 am

A CGR look at modern belay and anchor systems – are they better than just the rope? Personal Anchor Systems collection – we tested all these systems. Anchoring to the rock – a crucial skill to develop if there ever one. In my 30+ years of climbing and mountaineering I’ve seen some shocking belays, including some of my own (in the early days)! I often climb with friends who send 8b but upon arrival at a trad belay are covered in knitting with a couple of dodgy runners tied together with god knows what.

I really began to develop my belay skills winter climbing, it’s straightforward to learn on a nice sunny day with an easy stance but winter conditions with gloves and challenging conditions I really learned to put together belays quickly. Any item of equipment that is going to help be more efficient at belaying is going to be a good investment. Working with clients has also allowed me to develop bombproof and efficient belays, it’s a crucial skill for all climbers and time needs to be spent honing it up.

A personal anchor system or PAS is a system that anchors you to the belay and this article focusses on this. All these anchor systems rely on the belay being built with an equaliser and power loop.

We have group tested all the current systems (bar one) on the market to see what the advantages and disadvantages are:

Using the rope Ease of use***

Safety Factor*****

The most common system: arrive at the stance, build your bombproof belay and clip in via clove hitches or figure eights. This simple system has stood the test of time and doesn’t need a power loop system. It’s cheap (no extra kit to buy), it can be quick and everyone knows (or should do) how it’s used. The drawbacks are it uses rope (if you have a single rope and are using the there back, there back system you can require up to 5m of rope) – this isn’t an issue on a grit route or short pitches, but on long Alpine pitches or winter routes you may need every metre of rope. Mistakes can also be made with equalisation with often catastrophic consequences for failure. It is also more complex to escape the system in an emergency.

Typical RRP: £0

Knotted cord/sling Ease of use***

Safety Factor ***

I have been using this system for several years and have tried both the 6mm perlon cord and a 4ft sling. You may have come across this with climbers clipping a sling on their harness and using it like that – I’ve even seen some climbers using an 8ft sling like this! Most climbers just use them open, as in larks foot the sling into the rap loop of a harness, clip a karabiner into the other end and off you go! The advantages are – it’s an item of equipment you already have, that’s it. The disadvantages are numerous; there have been some well documented failures of this system and its failure to hold a shock load when fallen on. It had very little adjustability, that is when you clip into the belay you cannot adjust for distance, etc. Do not underestimate this vital element of any system as you need to remain tight on any belay system – unless the belay is rubbish when I usually find praying is the best option. The system can be improved by the addition of a knot – I found that this gave me two options for clipping into a belay with but no other advantage other than that. This does, however, reduce the KN rating significantly.

Typical RRP £4-£7.50

Nylon/Dyneema Daisy Chain. Ease of use ****

Safety Factor**

I have also used a normal daisy chain as a personal anchor which works better than a knotted sling as you can have more adjustable options. The main problem is that you must not, under any circumstances, belay off any of the chains as they often only have a strength rating of 2kN. This only makes them useful for directly hanging onto at a belay station and hanging gear onto. I have now superseded this system with the safer PAS slings.

Typical RRP: £10-£15

Beal Dynaclip Beal Dynaclip – sewn 9mm cord Ease of use***

Safety Factor****

I’ve had one of these for a while now; it’s basically a length of 9mm cord sewn into a large and small loop with a single strand of cord between them. One end you larks foot into your harness and the other holds a screwgate. The ends are encased in plastic to aid durability and protect the sewn area from abrasion.  The idea is that the system is more dynamic than a static sling and therefore absorbs more force. They come in two lengths 40 and 75cms; I have the 40cm one. The main disadvantage is the fixed length with no adjustability. I bought mine in Decathlon and we have no price information for the UK. More info can be found here.

SRP £19.00

Edelrid Adjustable Belay Station

The adjustable belay station sling offers for the first time in a sling, adjustability in the length whatever the situation without reducing strength by making knots.

Ease of use***

Safety Factor *****

This is an adjustable belay equalising system – we’ve been testing it for a while now and found it very useful. It has been most useful for rock climbing as it was a little more awkward to use with gloves on. It just carry’s on your torso like a sling and is reasonably quick to set up. The system works more efficiently than using an 8ft sling as an equaliser, you place your anchors, clip one side into one with a clove hitch, clip the other side into the other anchor with a little slack between the two and use the adjusting side that has a buckle on it (similar to the buckle you find on a modern harness), then adjust to tension the system. It sounds a little complicated but it’s quite simple – we’ve produced a video on how to use it for our YouTube channel.

The safety rating in 22kN, so stronger than your wire. The only issues I had with using the ABS was it felt quite thick which made it awkward to use with winter gloves on and a little bulky in general. It was great for guiding and setting up belays for clients, setting up abseil stations for cragging, great for Alpine multi pitch routes and good for ice screw belays.

RRP £22.50

Stockists

Personal Anchor Systems. Ease of use****

Safety Factor*****

These are sewn slings similar to linked quickdraws. The advantages of using these belay systems are that they are bombproof, each link is 22kN. When you think a normal daisy chain link is 2kN then you can see the advantage. So each link is as strong as a sewn sling in which you can clip into, they can be used in a variety of situations. I have tied one around a tree and just clipped it in. I have clipped them into two wires for a direct belay and used them for multi abseils and clipping into multi pitch trad and bolted routes. It also makes escaping the system a much more simple affair. We have tested the two main ones on the market:

Metolius PAS 22 Metolius PAS 22 – fitted around my waist perfectly

Completely redesigned PAS with 11 mm (0.43″) webbing that now passes the CE/UIAA  Sling Standard

The PAS 22 was great for multi pitch abs and clipping into belays. This comes with a large end loop with which you larks foot to your harness. It comes with or without a screw gate, either way you need one.  I liked this PAS device, mainly because it fitted neatly around my 32” waist. It has 5 useable loops which are double layered to provide 22kN strength rated slings. The end sling is a different colour so that you can identify which end the screw gate goes into, this could be important in low light abseils for exaple the time we had to do 5 abs from an ice route with just our phones for torches! I have used it in a variety of situations and I found it indispensable for ice climbing and my instruction work. I find myself using it more and more for multi pitch climbing. A good piece of kit and a good sturdy build. Upon arriving at a stance you just un clip the Metolius PAS 22 from around your waist and clip it directly into the belay with whichever loop fits in to keep the belay tensioned. Also great for abseils.

very versatile for all sorts of equalizing options. SRP £42.00 (with screw gate) £35.00 (without)

Stockists

Grivel Daisy Chain The Grivel Dasiy Chain – felt lighter and was longer than the PAS 22 The longer length of the Grivel Daisy Chain was good for out of reach belays. This again comes with a large, sewn end with which you larks foot into your harness, 6 useable loops and a sewn end sling that accepts a screw gate. The Grivel Daisy Chain has 6 loops and so is a loop longer than the Metolius PAS, each loop is also slightly bigger. It therefore ends up about a loop longer as the larks foot sling is slightly smaller.  The Grivel daisy Chain also feels lighter and more subtle to use as there is only one layer of tape in the sewn loop which gives 23kN of strength. Again this has proved a great piece of kit and the longer length has been an advantage on occasion. The longer length meant it didn’t fit as neatly around my waist as I needed to clip it a little further around, but if you have a bigger waist it would ideal. I have also stashed it over my head as I just wrapped it behind my head and clipped it into the available loop, this has worked fine.  Kiev has used one of these for a while now and really rates it, he says he wouldn’t climb in winter or The Alps without one; it’s been great for all sorts of belay and abseil scenarios.

Using the Grivel Daisy Chain in ‘guide’ mode. Great for ‘hands free’ options. SRP £35.00

Stockists

There isn’t much to differentiate between both anchor systems part from the length and lightness of the Grivel Daisy Chain, they are both very useful items and should be on the harness of every winter and multi pitch climber.

Kong Slyde – an inexpensive adjusting PAS Finally we have the Kong Slyde, I saw a couple of Spanish guys using these ice climbing in Cogne a year or so ago and thought they were a great idea.  The plate works like a friction device and self-locks when tension is applied. You put a screwgate into one of the holes and the other sections 9mm cord is threaded through with a stopper knot at the end (very important!). Clip the screwgate into the belay and pull the knotted end to get the required tension, very simple. I’ve been trying to get one of these to try out for a while now but can’t find a UK stockist; still I’m sure I’ll find one on my next visit to The Alps. So no price info but you can find more info on the Kong site: www.kong.it.

We’ve tried to be as comprehensive as possible with our collection of devices but if we have missed one out then just let us know through the comments sections and we’ll update the article.



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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The North Face Verto Plasma – Climbing Gear Review
7 July 2013, 5:30 pm





CGR tests out the new Verto Plasma approach shoe from The North Face. Performance****

Style*****

Value for money****

When you need cushioned support and protection along load-laden approaches and scrambles, choose The North Face Men’s Verto Plasma hiking shoe.

We’ve highlighted and reviewed several approach shoes this season from general hiking and running to climbing/alpine specific and it’s been good to note the variety on offer. There’s a shoe out there for any specific purpose you would want. The North Face Verto Plasma shoes come into the general hiking/approach category. The North Face has an extensive array of footwear in the catalogue but the Verto Plasma is placed in the high end Summit Series range – The TNF have designed all their Summit Series equipment for serious climbers and high achieving athletes. So do they live up to the mantle?

Let’s look at the style, these were a great looking shoe to have on and they always drew comments from fellow climbers at Malham, the climbing wall or just out and about. They have definitely been the most stylish shoe I have tested this season and look great in casual clothing. They have a full, climbing lace system that keeps the toe area in place for climbing and scrambling. The front of the shoe is encased in made with pig suede so vegetarians may have an ethical issue in wearing them. The lacing area widened out slightly to give it a very stylish profile. The rest of the upper was made from reinforced mesh nylon that TNF named ballistic nylon. This had further reinforcement from a cross hatch laminated to the fabric. It has withstood plenty of knocks and has been very breathable.

The North face Verto Plasma was a great looking shoe for all climbing activity. The lacing area was excellent, extra reinforced material and proper eyelets for the first 4 lace holes means I expect the lacing system to last the life of the shoe, so well done TNF for getting this right. The tongue was nicely padded and breathable; there was a handy tab on the tongue for pulling the shoe on and there was also a patch of the synthetic suede to give the tongue a little extra durability in the lacing area.

The North Verto Plasma – a well made, technical approach shoe. The shoe benefited from a full rand which helped in climbing and scrambling and easy climbing situations. It was this that set the shoe apart from being just a hiking or running type shoe into something that was specially designed for climbers and mountaineers. I did use the shoes for scrambling and they were fine for routes up to grade 3 scrambles, when I got onto proper rock climbs I felt that I needed a better edge, the stiffness felt OK though and I was comfortable on routes up to HVD, which is the sort of route I’m using for group sessions. The shoe felt fine for all guiding and instruction purposes as well as my recreational climbing.

The shoe was great on all technical terrain. The heel was excellent, it felt very stable due to the TPU heel cradle, this was a very hard plastic cradle at the back which really clamped the heel into the shoe. This was great and I felt the difference on very stony terrain such as scree approaches and going downhill. Don’t be put off by the look of it, it doesn’t lift the heel higher as it’s just a cradle and not a full width insert; it was a good feature. Talking of heels I thought the heel strike was quite firm on these shoes, the shoe’s specification state that the footbed is upgraded EVA and it definitely felt very firm throughout. This meant running in the shoe for long periods (like when I had to run back to the car from Crummackdale as I’d left my phone and wallet on the dashboard) became a little uncomfortable – but then the shoe is not designed as a running shoe. If you like a firm feel to a shoe you will definitely like these. Finally on the heel there was a pull tab, the tab wasn’t overly large but it was big enough to get a biner through it, I would have liked to have seen it bigger so that I could fit two shoes together and clip them to my harness. I also felt it could have been bar tacked for extra durability as this is an area the shoe is likely to fail in as the shoe is swinging around on your harness.

The sole was made from Vibram Masai rubber which was very grippy. It had two patterns on it the toe and heel area was a dotty style pattern for extra friction, the rest had the lug structure of a hiking shoe. The sole performed well in all the tests I put it through from rock approaches to teetering around upstairs at Malham – not a place to have a slip! I’ve not had any problems at all with the friction of the sole, the Vibram Masai rubber is a dual density rubber designed to give friction and durability, I’ve noticed very little wear in the 8 weeks I’ve been testing them.

To sum up I have found The North Face Verto Plasma a great all round climbing approach shoe, I’ve used them recreationally and they have drawn good comments from everyone that has seen them. They are very stylish and I have worn them for my lecturing and training activities. For climbing and approach they have performed in the way a high end Summit Series shoe is supposed to –a shoe for serious climbers.

SRP £115.00

Stockists.



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Edelrid Swift 8.9mm Rope – Climbing Gear Review
13 July 2013, 7:44 am

Edelrid Swift 8.9mm Triple Rated Rope Kev puts Ederid’s 8.9mm triple rated rope to the test in a wide variety of situations. But is it three times as good? Performance *****

Durability *****

Value for money*****

Edelrid say:

One rope – three certifications. With its 8.9 mm diameter, the Swift is one of the skinniest single ropes on the market. It is a single rope, double rope and twin rope all in one.

• Minimal weight and diameter, excellent handling
• Pro Shield finish for optimal performance
• Dry Shield finish for outstanding dirt and water resistance
• Thermo Shield treatment for perfect handling
• Not suitable for working routes or top roping

Perfect used as a single rope for direct rock pitches. Here on the Frendo Spur. This is a long-term test of a fairly specialist climbing rope from Edelrid. The Swift 8.9mm rope is part of a new breed of triple rated ropes, designed versatility and lightweight in mind. A triple rated rope is designed and rated to be used in all 3 common climbing rope applications. Namely single (use on it’s own), twin (use as a pair with another similar diameter rope and clip both ropes into each piece of protection) and finally, double (the system us Brits are most familiar with where we use two ropes of the same diameter but clip them separately into different pieces of protection). You may think, ok so what is so special? I can use any rope in those 3 ways can’t I? Well yes, you can but it doesn’t mean they can be officially classified as such. Having done a bit of research, it is actually remarkably tricky to produce a rope which complies with test standards for all three specifications.

I’ve used the Edelrid Swift 8.9mm rope for a while now and have tested it in all of the 3 situations named above. I have used it as a single rope to save weight on technical alpine routes and also to simplify rope work. I like to use a single rope on routes where there is a mixture of pitched technical climbing, but also easier sections where you are required to take coils and move together. On climbs where an abseil retreat may be necessary I would carry 60m of 6mm cord to use as a pull line. This is a versatile system and allows fast movement on technical ground. The Swift I tested was a 70m length and I like the versatility of a longer rope as it allows bigger pitches to be climbed, increasing speed and also giving the opportunity to find better belay anchors. You also have the option of 35 metre abseils just by doubling the rope.

Edelrid Swift, set up for abseiling using a pull line, descending Pinnochio on Mt Blanc du Tacul’s East Face. As well as on alpine climbs, I have used the Swift as a single rope for some specific sport climbing projects due to it light weight, superb handling and smooth running characteristics. I must highlight though, that this is not a route for working your sport project and although I have found it to be extremely durable for a rope of this type, constant short falls and ‘dogging’ will be sure to give premature wear. I did however, use it on a number of occasions whilst trying to redpoint a single 65 metre F8b pitch when I wanted to keep the weight of the rope and associated drag, to a minimum. The Swift was perfect for this.

Sport climbing with the Swift A WORD OF CAUTION: The Swift is not designed for use with a standard self-locking belay device such as the original GriGri. It needs a specialist device due to the small diameter. Edelrid’s Eddy and Mega Jul or Petzl’s GriGri2 work perfectly.

For UK trad climbers, the Swift is a versatile rope as you can use it on its own on short direct pitches but also add another similar diameter rope to convert to a double rope system. This has cost benefits as you don’t then need to buy a single rope and 2 double rated ropes.

I must confess that I only used the Swift as a twin rope (clipping that and another similar diameter rope into the same karabiner) a couple of times. Maybe this is a British mentality as UK climbers tend to use this system less often than climbers on mainland Europe. It does have benefits though. On direct mountain pitches you have the ropework simplicity (almost) of one rope, but the safety of 2 should one become damaged. You also have a system that allows you to do full length abseils on descent.

Handling

The Swift handles superbly. It uncoiled without twists  pretty much straight out of the packaging and works smoothly with a variety of belay devices. It is a reasonably stiff feeling rope for something of this diameter but I think Edelrid have got the balance between stiffness and durability, just about perfect. The Swift coils easily and kinks very little for a thin rope.

Taking coils crossing the glacier on the way back to the Aiguille du Midi Durability

Although the Swift is a specialist rope and definitely not designed as an out and out sport climbing rope, I have found it to be incredibly durable, in fact more so than other dedicated single ropes that I own. As I mentioned earlier, I have used the Swift for a number of applications, regularly and over a 12 month period and it still shows very little signs of wear. The dry treatment has helped with this and the rope picks up very little dirt and moisture. It also has not given me any problems whatsoever in terms of freezing up.

Conclusion

The Edelrid Swift 8.9mm triple rated rope is my current favourite rope. It’s not the rope to go for if you want a single dedicated rope for one application. It’s a bit more specialist and as such it will be suited to mountain professional, alpinists and those who are looking to save weight, rather than those wanting a rope suited to everyday cragging.

 

• Visit the Edelrid website for more information.

 

Price: 50m – £160, 60m – £190, 70m – £225

Stockists:

• Bananafingers: http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-swift-89mm-ps-ds-ts-p-993.html
• Climbers Shop: http://www.climbers-shop.com/9811364/products/edelrid_swift_rope_8_9mm_x_60m.aspx
• Elite Mountain Supplies: https://www.elitemountainsupplies.co.uk/Products.aspx?i=114

Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com

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Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
16 July 2013, 9:30 pm

Is the Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hbrid Hoody the best Summer climbing softshell? Kev Avery finds out…. Performance: ****

Quality:*****

Style:*****

Arc’teryx say the Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is:

“A lightweight hoody designed for weight-conscious alpine specialists moving quickly over mixed terrain. A hybrid of a durable, weather-resistant fabric in high-wear areas and a lightweight, quick drying, breathable fabric in the main body that accentuates heat and moisture control with high weather protection.”

The Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is perfect for Summer Alpine rock climbing. Here Garry Philips puts his through its paces on the Grand Charmoz. The Gamma SL Hybrid is a fully featured lightweight softshell jacket, designed for fast moving pursuits in a mixture of weather conditions. It is not however, a waterproof jacket!

I have used the Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody for a number of different activities: Ice and mixed climbing in the Alps in November, ski touring in Spring, Summer rock climbing, scrambling and also Scottish winter climbing on days when the weather has been reasonably moisture free. It is a very versatile softshell jacket and it is also very well featured.

The Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is great for UK rock climbing on those less than perfect days. As you’d expect from Arc’teryx, the cut is superb, almost tailored in fact. This means that there is only fabric where you need it, not where you don’t. The whole garment is anatomicaly shaped.  The sleeves are articulated, and don’t pull or cause the hem to ride up when you are climbing and have your hands above your head. This is also aided by the underarm gussets. Cuffs are secured by simple and effective Velcro cinch tabs and these are easy to operate, even whilst wearing gloves.

The jacket isn’t too long, sitting just above the hip so it works well with a climbing harness. The harness hemlock feature (and the excellent cut mentioned earlier) ensures that the Gamma doesn’t ride up when climbing and stays put below your harness.  The hem can be easily adjusted using glove friendly hem drawcords.

The hood on the Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is simply awesome. It gives amazing head coverage without compromising visibility and is easy to adjust via adjustable drawcords, even whilst wearing gloves. It works perfectly over a climbing helmet and doesn’t feel your neck is being compressed when you put it up.

The Gamma has a laminated chest pocket and 2 laminated handwarmer pockets, all with glove friendly tabs. It doesn’t have any internal pockets. None of the pockets interfere with a harness although if the hand pockets are full then they do tend to feel like they’re impeding your waist belt a little. If this was an out and out climbing jacket then I think Arc’teryx could happily dispense with the 2 handwarmer pockets. As more of an all-round mountain piece though, they work fine.

The jacket closes via a full length Vislon zip with windguard and laminated soft touch chin guard. The zip is sturdy and smooth to use and the cord zipper tab works well with gloves despite being rather thin.

The Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is perfect for Spring to Autumn alpinism. Here used on the Goulotte Profit Perroux in late October. The hood on this jacket is fantastic. The fabrics used on the Gamma SL are where the Hybrid part of the name comes into play. Basically Arc’teryx construct the garment out of 2 different fabrics. Both fabrics stretch to aid with ease of movement and both are treated with a DWR (Durable Water Repellent) finish to help moisture bead away from the surface and not soak in. Neither fabric is waterproof or 100% windproof but they will protect from snow, light showers and all but the harshest of wind. In fact in terms of windproofness, it can’t be far off 100%.  A heavier (actually very light though!), tougher fabric called Fortius 1.0 is used on the high wear areas of the arms, shoulders, upper back and lower back. The rest of the jacket is made from a slightly lighter Terratex fabric which is very breathable and quick drying. This gives a comfortable piece of clothing suited to fast moving activities. The only downside of the lighter fabric is that it is limited by its durability and I have managed to put a couple of holes in mine whilst mixed climbing on Chamonix granite.

So all in all the Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is a superb piece of softshell clothing which is deal for a wide range of fast moving mountain pursuits from ski touring to mixed climbing to Summer alpine classics. It is best suited for use in Spring, Summer and Autumn as I don’t think it would provide sufficient protection for full on winter conditions, particularly in the UK, (I’d go for a Gamma MX Hoody or Venta MX Hoody instead) but a lot of that would be dictated by weather on the day. I particularly like the hood and harness hemlock feature. Watch out for ice screws and sharp rocks on the lighter body fabric. All in all another great piece of kit.

Price: £170

To find out more and where to buy one, visit the Arc’teryx website.



Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com