[shark]

Weight 11.6-8

M Foundry on 40 degree board. Much better on AnCap Linked boulders routine but still got shutdown so didnt do target number number of moves
T Eve Edge with Duncan. 4x4 session leading routes Evening. 3 warmups. Set1 6b+ x2 6b+ x 2 (cheated a bit on first go on one due to hidden holds around the arete) Set2. 6b+ x 2 6c x 2 (faded on last move second go).Set 3. On a different section 6b+, 6b+, 6c (all pretty piss easy)then the 6c from Set2. Set4. 6b, 6b+, 6b, 6b+ again. Overall much much better than last week.
W.
T. Eve Edge with Reeve. 4 sets of 10 mins continuity. Much better than last week.
F. Noon. Some light complexes, core and fingerrolls then assisted one arm deadhangs 6 each arm per 3 sets first two half crimp 3rd full crimp. Some good hangs in 2nd and 3rd set. Eve Foundry with boys. 6 goes on 6 short boulder . Again improvement on last week.
S AM Works with boys. Cooold. Did 4 sets of 10 easy problems. Eve Beastmaker session similar to Friday's session.
S. PM Nature called - nice session on Hamper's. Felt stronger and was recovering better on it than last year. (This session replaced hardest move session from Programme).

Overall much better week and no tweaks !!! Will attempt to structure sessions a bit better this week to get two rest days. Debating whether to have more short fingerboard sessions like I did this week or revert to longer finger sessions like last week.

[tomtom]

M>Sat Nothing
Sun: Secret garden. Failed on beach ball again..

Work eases off now, so hopefully I can get climbing more!

[Luthor]

STG - Add to the small number of 7b successes so far. Train better, not get injured. Stay psyched.


Mon - Fingerboard session. First for AGES, so kept it light. Going to have to build up slowly this time to avoid injury. Noticeably weak on two finger pockets.

Tues - Bouldered at the Works.

Wed - Routes in furnace room at the Foundry. Good workout.

Thurs - Took couple of hours off work and went to Plantation late afternoon with Barratt. Had a look at Captain Hook and made some (limited) progress, managing to stick the sloper in middle of the roof by the end. Seems like a hard problem. Did a new 6c and narrowly failed on a couple of 7a's.

Fri - Quick lunchtime session at the Works. Warmed up on easy circuit then rushed round trying the new pink problems.

Sat - Aimed to get to Stanage, but stopped at Burbage bridge instead due to snowy roads. The nose was clear of snow and ice so headed over and managed to get it first go :-) Great friction!! Failed miserably in greasier conditions earlier in year. Used the toe hook method, great problem.

Sun - Rest

Much better week training wise - managed to climb 6 days on, but kept sessions fairly easy. Starting to feel stronger / fitter again.

[nai]

M - fingerboard - upped the weight and volume and surprisingly didn't injure myself.
T - a few random pullups, pressups, etc.  Completely unstructured and a bit pointless but last chance to do anything all week.  Forearms sore from Monday.

W-Sun nothing

Frustrating week, only day I could have got out it pissed down then the rest of the week was perfect.  Absolutely chomping at the bit to get out tomorrow.

[cheque]

STG- V5 this winter, E1 on grit in spring
MTG- E1 on big cliffs in summer
LTG-

M- Swiss ball core
T-Pullups and Pushups
W- Swiss ball core
T- Nothing
F- Birthday. Got "9 out of 10 climbers..." book and giant mat. Also drank for first time in 11 months.
S- Nothing
S- Burbage South. Up to V4. Stunning conditions!

Climbing really well (for me) on Sunday: I've never enjoyed bouldering so much and I should easily tick my bouldering STG, possibly before Christmas. Dave McLeod's book is really opening my eyes (and filling them full of psyche)!

[205Chris]

STGs: Go highballing
MTGs: 8a route next year

M: Repeaters on fingerboard

T: Nada

W: Nada

T: Decided a while ago to get some coaching - today was the day of reckoning. Put through my paces at the works for 2 hours to help identify my strengths and weaknesses. Turns out I'm quite weak for the grades I'm climbing so looking to put this right over the winter by spending a lot more time beneath the works campus board.

F: Burbage North to try the Sphinx. Might have been a bit tired from yesterday but it feels hard and make little progress. Go and do Jason's stand up and try enough of the moves to reckon the full problem might be on for this winter.

S: Short garage session

S: Apparent north. Did Hamper's mantel only to be told afterwards it's an eliminate and I've used the wrong holds 
Went and tried the V5 thing on the cube with the horrible sharp cornflake hold on but it starts destroying my skin. Realise I can dyno to the top from the starting hand holds and do it this way instead. Some call it cheating, I call it playing to my strengths. Go for a walk and enjoy the sunset. I love living so close to the Peak District.

Another slightly frustrating weak but at least I now know what I need to work on.

[Plattsy]

Climb something hard (for me) before I leave Sydney (late Jan).
M - Nowt.
T - Gym. 5min row. 2km effort row 7:37. Weights using structure and pyramids. Get me.
W - Bouldered at SICG with team Pom. Felt weak/tired.
T - Nowt. Decide I'm not well.
F - Nowt. Drove to the Blue mountains. Bit unwell still.
S - Got over initial disappointed with the lack of moutains in the blue mountains. Went for a walk down a mountain. Stuffed my face all day and flicked through the local climbing guide.
S - Ate apple pie and returned to Sydney to watch the cricket. Feeling better though.

A bit disappointed with my form lately. I'm a lot lighter than I was 6 months ago but feel no stronger. Hoping the rest over the last few days has sorted me out and I can crack on this week and get out next weekend. Fngers crossed.

[aly]

Quite a good week, rediscovering the pure joy of climbing grit in the freezing cold, and remembering how a single move can make an entire weekend worthwhile.

LLTG 7C and 8a
LTG couple of sneaky grit things

MTG: one armer and front lever (not been putting much effort towards these this week)

Mon: Run, 6.1 miles, not feeling too bad.
Tues: afternoon at roaches, quality bouldering, really good session.  Evening park skiing at snowdome, knackering but really productive.
Weds: nothing
Thurs: Bouldering at Stoke, quite a good session too but finger still hurting.  Did a couple of probs on the 45 and some brief foot-on campus board work.
Fri: quick pull-up and fingerboard session
Sat: Slithered up the road to Widdop.  Boulders pretty snowy but some good climbing in baltic conditions
Sun: Went for (flat) walk round Grassmere for a few hours.  Nothing strenuous.  Brief pull-up session.

[i_a_coops]

STG: 7C, do The Wish the week after next (probably ambitious given it's a morpho 7C+), try and tick a sneaky 8a
MTG: Get massively route fit for next sport season, destroy my unfinished business around the SW and then hit Cheedale and Raven Tor.
LTG: 8A

M - Skin hurts from the weekend. A few half hearted pullups and levers.
T - As monday
W - Get arse slightly into gear, ok session on the bar. Skin too sore for the doorframe though.
T - Descend into Work Hell.
F - Ignore work for a session at the wall. Repeated a few problems up to alleged V8+ then worked on a whack eliminate.
S - Popped out of Hell briefly to do 3 one armers with only a minor foot dab. Back to Hell.
S - Did the whack eliminate. Good times. Unfortunately 2 weeks of getting snowed under by work has absolutely shafted my stamina. Couldn't recover while dangling off the biggest jugs on the wall. Fought my way through some circuits with more foot dabs each time.

Well if stamina can go that fast it can sodding well come back again. Strength isn't bad, but I don't quite have the snap of 2 weeks ago, I put that down to lack of sleep. Ah well.

[duncan]

MTG: E5 os by June 2011; 7b rp by Mar 2011
LTG: reduce injury frequency

Mon - Flying
Tues - Jet lag
Weds - Shoulder stability stuff
Thurs - Arch bouldering session
Fri - Arch bouldering session
Sat - Man 'flu
Sun - Arch bouldering session

A decent week's work considering I was wanding around in a daze most of the time.  Need to get me some STGs though.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2010 (a bit ambitious maybe).
Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.

Not much free time, again.

M-  Work, alcohol free!!
T-  Work, alcohol free!!
W-  Session at Trowbarrow on the usual suspects.  Felt quite good other than everything being glassy and having taken someone elses' feet, someone clumsy.
T- Work, fell off the wagon.
F-  Wa going to go to the wall but events conspired against me.  Wine.
S-  Day of kid's swimming/birthday parties/Rainbows etc.  Lots of whisky.
S-  Felt rough (see Sat)b ut managed to walk to Blackstone and freeze for a few hours.  Poor conditions, well that's my excuse anyway.  Glass of wine.

Monday weigh in of 84.3kg. 

[Barratt]

Tues: Works
Wed: Run after work, 3 miles ish
Thurs: Stanage, poor session
Friday: cold, leave work and collapse in bed
Sat: cold, but up early for trip to London
Sun: London, with less cold. Theraband and a few wide press ups when home at night

Not a great week, but not too disappointed. The week ahead I'm goin to focus aerobic stuff, maybe run home from work as I can't use the car in these conditions (rear wheel drive). Quite looking forward to the rest/change from climbing.

Weight: 70.8kg
Shoulder: 5 out of 10

[Fatboy]

STG: Climb multiple 6b problems (consistantly)
MTG: Climb 6c project Chillax (Glendalough, Co. Wicklow, Ireland)

M: Rest, healthy dinner of steamed veg and grilled chicken. Saw physio about wrist - bone slightly out of place - manipulated which was sore but instantly felt better, no climbing until Thursday.
T: Rest, steak!
W: 7-a-side football, cardio. Felt good, ran lots and in fact may have been only team member running in last 5 minutes.
T: Session at the wall. Eased wrist back in to things, felt a lot better. Felt reasonable generally.
F: Rest, takeaway, toasty fire which I fell asleep in front of by 10:30!
S: Snow, rest.
S: Snow, rest.

Comments: Good week in terms of road to recovery for my wrist but needs to be stretched to ensure bone can find its way back in to place. No much climbing but fairly healthy week. Weight to be added here from this week onwards.

[andybfreeman]

Goals - I've adopted the progression methodology from SCC for my winter bouldering. Aim (possibly ambitious) is to bring my outdoor max level to 7B+ while in font in December - looks doable if the weather's OK although will have to climb a couple of 7As, a 7A+ and another 7B to complete the pyramid before moving on

M - rest
T - mixed session at TCA. fitness on circuits coming back and feeling OK on problems
W - work do so more rest
Th - Power training session on 45 degree board. Good session and the board looks ace with all of its new holds.
F - Rest
Sa - Mixed session at TCA. started on circuits then got stuck into some problems. managed to link the dyno problem from last week's comp
Su - bouldered at wolf mountain with my brother and Kelly. The 'new' wolf, especially the bouldering, is rubbish compared to the old place - space not used efficiently, room ice cold and half the problems not listed. I felt like I climbed well though including quick ticks of a couple of 7A/+s

[Falling Down]

M - Travel/Rest
T - Early morning gym. 20 minute row then Pullup/Pressup/OH Press ciruit for 20 mins.
W - Routes pyramid (9 routes) at Awesome Walls with Errm Sam and Galpinos up to 6c and did some falling off too. Finger felt tweaky by the end.  Felt fitter than I expected given the lack of sharp end routing of late.
T - Olympic lifting coaching session by Mark Clegg at Sugden Barbell.
F - Rest  squared.
S - Hangover, sleep, curry more  as a hair of the dog.
S - Bouldering at Roaches with Erm Sam. Wobbled about on some rocks and didn't get up very much.

Good week training wise but less so on the rocks due to getting really ratarsed on Friday and still feeling it Sunday. Still, one can't be a  all the time.

[Muenchener]

STG: Reduce the yawning gap between my slab & steep leading grades - currently topping out at (soft) 6c and 6a respectively - by putting another couple of layers on my SCC pyramid for steeps and avoiding the temptation to fart about on slabs when I should be getting pumped. Aerobic / mileage base phase of Periodised Winter Plan for Arco at Easter. 30 minutes traversing or continuously on a route, without pumping or resorting to no-hands rests
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: Step-ups with heavy rucksack, 30 minutes.
T: Bike to work, 26km.
    Bouldering, office gym. Attempted aerobic travering session, 20 minutes traversing. I fear the wall is too hard for me and what I was actually doing was PE intervals, with incipient pumps & rests. Had to resort to no-hands bridging a couple of times. But will get fitter if I keep doing it.
W-T-F: Business trip. Token stretching, pressups etc. in hotel room. But ran into a former colleague who climbs, so have a wall partner for next week.
S:
S: Wall, Gilching. Family trip, much time spent belaying kids, only did a couple of routes. Which left me feeling a little under-exercised, so shoulders, core, stretching at home afterwards.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Font 7B+ this season, F7c in 2011, F8a by 1st Jan 2014.

M: Nowt
T: 4x4 sets @ The Edge - Much better than last week, didn't neary throw up on Simon or anything!
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: Boulder @ Burbage West - Few goes on the Nose to warm up then a few easys then a few goes on WSS.. Some ace pink beer(!!!) in the Millstone.
S: Boulder @ Burbage North - Everywhere else too cold or covered in snow, did Banana Finger - can't believe I've never climbed on this buttress before. Didn't really get started on owt tricky before it got dark.
S: Sledge wit boy.

Did a bit but really feeling weak when bouldering at the moment. Kinda still in routes mode and while I'm planning to keep up the stamina stuff till next year I know I really need to top up power levels as me lock off strength and general oomph! is sorely lacking.
Keep being haunted by hip flexibility issues too.. Must get back into the swing of daily yoga..

This week: Yoga, Routes, Boulder (and train locks).... Will aim to fit in a weekly finger board session or 2 in the coming weeks as the finger is well and truly healed (no tape this week) and the DIY is leveling out. 

:D

[iain]

STG: Get some consistent training going and tick several 7b+ and 7c over the winter
MTG: State of Play and Total Seizure by March
LTG: Infinite Gravity and Freaky Ralph

Mon: Quality bouldering session at the wall
Tues: Tried for more quality but was a little tired from Monday
Wed: nothing
Thurs: nothing
Fri: nothing
Sat: Tried doing routes outside despite being stupidly cold. Managed a couple of 6c onsights which felt good given the conditions. Also had a play on a 7b+ to come back for. Lost count of how many times I got hot aches.
Sun: 5 mile walk

Don't think I made much progress this week, but at least there was some mileage in there. Will improve.

[chris05]

STG: 7A before xmas

M: working late
T: pull-ups, press-ups, weights, core (430) & BM: 3x30moves (foot on), max hangs
W: rest
T: pull-ups, press-ups, weights, core (430) & BM: 3x30moves (foot on), max hangs, assisted one-armers
F: rest
S: pull-ups, press-ups, weights, core (430) & BM: 3x30moves (foot on), max hangs, one arm work
S: core (1000)

Rubbish week for actual climbing and running, due to being really busy at work and having pulled a calf last week. Did realise I can do 20 pull-ups (hadn't tried max before) and lock off on one arm for a short while. Cant wait to get back on the rock when weather and work allow, but for now the BM will have to do.

[Nibile]

mon - beast. footless sequences of 8 moves x 8 sets; one arm dead hangs. brief and intense.
tue - rest.
wed - wall. did some new problems, good volume also.
thu - wall. felt tired from previous day, slow warm up, then fired my project.
fri - drove to Swizzy.
sat - 2,5 hours walking in the snow; 0,5 hours on project. EPIC FAIL. drove back.
sun - rest.

comments. after last week, in which I did a bigger volume, my elbows felt a bit tired. so I cut down the pull ups. the footless sequences on the beast are well cool, but again a bit stressful on the elbows. good vibes on plastic .
now more than ever: KEEP THE FUCKING FAITH.

[nik at work]

LTG: Not be ill
STG: Not be ill

M - S: Ill

Still ill now, cock-snorkelers.

[joeisidle]

STG- Climb a font 7a that isn't a steep crimpfest
MTG- Climb font 7b by the end of 2011

Monday- Moon wall session, repeated a 6c/+ and made a new 6b+/c before playing on a few sloper problems. Pushups
Tuesday- Rest
Wednesday- Volume session, did various 6a-6bish circuit climbs
Thursday- Rest
Friday- Repeaters on fingerboard, focusing on 3 finger drags, openhanded crimps and slopers.
Saturday- Wall session, focusing on power endurance and burly sloper problems.
Sunday- Rest

[chris_j_s]

STG - Rehabilitate finger.

One bouldering session at Ingleton on Thursday. Picked up the intensity quite a bit from last weeks routes session and finger was still okay.

So glad that I have spent a lot of time in the past working on open handed strength - I can almost climb at the same level as pre injury, using an OH grip on just about everything.

Have also been doing some fairly light deadhanging, repeaters, pull ups and weights during the rest of the week which is working quite nicely as I can control the intensity very carefully.

Had intended to go climbing on Sunday too but actually spent all day unblocking drains and trying to sort out frozen water pipes before a guest arrived. 

[webbo]

Mon.bouldering rockcity new problems did about 23
Tue. wine
Wed. rockcity climbed shit split a tip went home.
Thu. rockcity climbed much better repeated most things I'd done on monday first go.
Fri.wine
Sat.leeds wall cos of the snow.drove to cheshire to visit mother.
Sun.5inches of snow so forced myself to do an hour on the turbo.went for a walk with the missus for an hour.

[petejh]

My little goal of trying to climb my first '8' in four disciplines in a calender year has petered out. Due to the amazing winter weather we've been having I've totally forgotten about trying to do My Piano and Highlife, and instead have gone headlong into winter-climbing mode, trying to do a bunch of new routes which may never come in again!
I'm pretty pleased how it went this year, IX and F8a was a step up for me from VI and F7b, and I was in the position to be solid enough to go for the lead on My Piano when I injured my finger trying it on the shunt. I'm happy where I got to, I don't know if I'd have succeeded on the font 8a - that definitely felt the hardest nut to crack compared to the other three, I think I'd have probably fallen short but I'm sure I can get it in the slightly longer term. Good fun and it upped my game, and power club helped for helping keep me focused. Bye!

[nodder]

And next time you can try a proper font 8a instead of a 30 odd move endurance cave problem.