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Thumbelina Ina's Rock (Read 2613 times)

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Thumbelina Ina's Rock
November 22, 2010, 12:40:09 pm
Had a session on this yesterday, and did not make the move to the pocket in the middle of the wall. Is there some shenanigans with a heel? Taking the left hand undercut/sidepull and right hand on the big hold, I stepped up with left foot to reach the pocket. Although I was hitting it, just not sticking it. I've seen a photo of JC doing the move keeping his feet really low, but he has the height?

Johnny Brown

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#1 Re: Thumbelina Ina's Rock
November 22, 2010, 01:28:24 pm
Andi's original sequence used a high heelhook with right foot. I thought it was desperate and instead just deadpointed it from left foot smear at knee/thigh height. Andi's a good bit taller than me but various heights have done both ways since.

Krank

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#2 Re: Thumbelina Ina's Rock
November 22, 2010, 01:43:46 pm
not sure if you have seen this, it might help.

Baldy

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#3 Re: Thumbelina Ina's Rock
November 22, 2010, 02:04:33 pm
Lankmaster supreme.
Good skills though.

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: Thumbelina Ina's Rock
November 22, 2010, 02:14:09 pm
I used a high small foothold out left for LF and something directly below for RF. Face left and slap for pocket with RH. The heel way looked easier but more committing.

Johnny Brown

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#5 Re: Thumbelina Ina's Rock
November 22, 2010, 03:07:33 pm
I couldn't do the heel way at all. Much more powerful, made that left hand undercut feel terrible.

Bonjoy

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#6 Re: Thumbelina Ina's Rock
November 22, 2010, 03:25:23 pm
There you go, hard and commiting sequence V easier and uncommiting sequence.

JC

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#7 Re: Thumbelina Ina's Rock
December 09, 2010, 07:12:58 pm
Anyone know if the highball groove to the left of cornelius, just around the corner has been done before? Did it today and can't find any clear info on it, its a superb highball, felt about 7a+ ish??   :-\

Johnny Brown

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#8 Re: Thumbelina Ina's Rock
December 10, 2010, 11:04:37 am
I think its the start to a route, the meat of which is on the weetabix above, but I'm sure a local will confirm. Does look good.

Bonjoy

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#9 Re: Thumbelina Ina's Rock
December 10, 2010, 07:47:27 pm
There is a route called Little Maia E5 6a which goes up rock on the lower section left of Cornelious, from the guide:  Start just right of the strange pillar up the rib and into the crack. Place some runners here and head out right up the pockety wall to reach the break [ledge] near the arete.

A new thing of Dom Lee's also goes up there somewhere, not clear but the description on UKC logbooks sounds like it might start up Little Maia:
20m. Climbs Ina's Rock's superb prow on its lefthand side. Start just left of the prow beneath a short crack.Climb to the crack then make moves out across the wall on solution pockets to gain the ledge above Cornelius.Climb the wall above before making difficult moves rightwards to finish directly over the nose of the prow.Brilliant!
« Last Edit: December 10, 2010, 07:56:36 pm by Bonjoy »

 

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