[cofe]

- Does Top Dog use the arete of the crack?

- Is Morris Dancing the obvious roof down from Growl Tiger, leaning in from the left-hand sidewall to the good crimps on the nose then up? (This question is semi-rhetorical.)

- Is Secret Lemonade Drinker the steep left arete of the very nice rippled slab? And is Wee Wall the easier slab line to the right past the curving holds?

Ta.

[account_inactive]

Are you getting other people to do your job 

Also who do I have to suck off around here to get a photo of me in the new guide 

[Moo]

me 

[cofe]

Dobbin.

[account_inactive]

I've fallen for that one before

[Tb]

Top Dog doesn't use the arete, and climbs the centre of the wall.  I  remember a hard pull/french start to a small hold just below the top.  It could do with a lower start.

Sounds like you've got the location of Morris Dancing, I just remember an awkward landing and pulling on grass at the top!

Secret Lemonade Drinker and Wee Wall are just in the trees and your description sounds about right.  I think the wall has an obvious left to right line and a very obvious starting hold for Wee Wall.

Tim

[cofe]

Thanks Tim. I think Top Dog must be a jump start then if it doesn't use the arete: there's certainly not a 7a static pull on method. Landing for Morris Dancing has been improved I think, as it wasn't that bad when we were there. Sounds like I've got SLD ad WW - nice bit of rock that one. WW I think climbs the LH side of the slab, and we did a slightly harder version up the RH side - also good.

[Andy B]

Sounds likely that those descriptions are right for the steep arete and left hand slab line. What we thought was Wee Wall could hardly be recognised as a wall really, although I can't see how "finish up the corner" for Secret Lemonade Drinker fits with the end of the steep arete? If these are right then it seems that there is also an easy problem up the right arete of the slab which is obscured by the fallen tree at the moment.

I think there are a couple of grade 6 sit starts (listed on peakbouldering) on the low overhangs where I did the lip traverse (where we thought Wee Wall was, to the right of Tallsop's 7a+).

[Offwidth]

Tony S gave us most of what we used for hard stuff there but if I recall he did say the final version wasnt quite right in a few places.

[cofe]

Most of it makes sense, when combined with the esotericrock PDF, but there were still a few gaps/question marks. I'm sure Tony will chip in if he sees this thread. I still can't work out exactly where the problems 'Wet Toes' and 'Heads Up' go...

[Tb]

Marc was in touch yesterday and had a slightly different description for Secret Lemonade Drinker, which may help and a photo.

Hard pull up left arête of wee wall and traverses left into corner (easier) or traverse around arête and hard mantel over the sloping nose (harder finish).

There also used to be an old bottle of R Whites lemonade dumped under the wall!



It looks as if Tallsop's problems are on the dodgy block buttress a little further up the hill?

Clear as mud.

Tim

[cofe]

Thanks again. On SLD we sat-start on edge just right of arete, up to big hold, cross RH to pinch on arete with heel on big hold and swing left to good break, pull over capping roof to finish. Still can't suss those 2 dodgy block problems, even after hours spent staring at a photo of the block.

We did the Morris Dancing roof direct too - has that been done before? (It would have been reported if it had. It's 3 star.)

Ta.

[Andy B]

Still can't suss those 2 dodgy block problems, even after hours spent staring at a photo of the block.

Send me your photo of those blocks and I should be able to figure out where they go.