http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/Lots of interesting posts about training..
I do want to get trained and very willing to pay. How much would it cost for me to get a good trainer?
You ruined that for me. I was in there.
Eva López has what looks like it would be a detailed and well researched article on fingerboarding for somebody who could read Spanish.
A comparative study of Upper Body Performance Factors in sport climbers and boulderers. From Eva Lopez's latest entry bibliography. 118 pages... http://gradworks.umi.com/1481622.pdf
No significant anthropometric and UBPC differences were found between male sport climbers and boulderers. Female boulderers had significantly greater handgrip and pinchgrip strength than female sport climbers (p < 0.05). Maximal campusboard reach was significantly related to climbing skill level for all groups (p < 0.05). Therefore, grip strength may be more important for female boulderers than female sport climbers, and campusboard training may improve one's climbing ability.
Push-up endurance was employed in this study to quantify muscular enduranceamong the participants, no distinction was found between the sexes, as well as betweenthe sport climbers and boulderers. The results also indicate that there was no significantrelationship between push-up endurance and climbing skill level.
loading 200 bales of hay is only an endurance task to a guy that's strong enough to actually perform the work
Quoteloading 200 bales of hay is only an endurance task to a guy that's strong enough to actually perform the workWhat's that Tony Yaniro quote? Something like "if you can't do the moves, there is nothing to endure"
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