the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
resources: Training (Coaches, books and web articles)
jfdm:
slackline:
https://beta-angel.com/
thekettle:
Fantastic link there Slackline, I would wad you if I could work out how :kiss2:
Recent resources I'd recommend are http://simplestrengthbook.com/ by Mercedes Pollmeier:
A good strength-progression book for those on the road or expedition,as no exercises need equipment. A nice profiling progression for coaches too, split into three basic movement categories: The press, the squat and the back bend. Not sure why pulling and the hip hinge have been excluded though. For serious climbers I think most of the progressions will be a bit too easy (hardest squat option is pistol, hardest press is 1hand/1leg push-up), but the back bend should give most a good challenge! All in all loads of good mobility and strength exercises well presented.
And also https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/ by physio Jared Vagy:
Another injury book to complement Dave Macleods and Volker Schoffels, this one is very much a DIY rehab book, with good clear progressions for a selection of common injuries. Nice to see nerve glides in there alongside the usual stuff. The movement advice given at the end of each program is very basic and sometimes dodgy (eg 'to avoid pulley injuries, perform more static movements'), and sometimes contradicts a different piece of advice. Also slightly too many [43 pages of] glossy-photo'd celebrity endorsements (what do they know about injuries, are they doctors?) and shirt-off finger rehab shots for my uptight English tastes.
Oldmanmatt:
An interesting PDF that popped up in my inbox this week, with a collection of articles etc.
Not read it all yet, busy getting ready to open tomorrow...
https://d1wqtxts1xzle7.cloudfront.net/61885731/A_Turner_2018_-_Advanced_Strength_and_Conditioning20200124-55933-1uebfe3.pdf?1579899223=&response-content-disposition=attachment%3B+filename%3DAdvanced_Strength_and_Conditioning.pdf&Expires=1618044265&Signature=bYNbEjOrBRde6ObnU5fKV8qL7s6T8UFkHdnl9DJdLZ3stlRSM12TWYkN4-gnZje4YiJ3dWIytXZcS40VGKwoLwhe6IljDxYIq2hk4E8Sld7cAUPMBBlZDE6MXWaXTBPJ-y~1EfpuRVls2pxMvZG~9Y7nOAkI536eFU5rDs5V0jbLaRaE2tNc-bjMhzBZ~Q87XXV~EClGzOAhNa0YYMiermoBKncR3Murro4d-kPFJP91dj5fpGHsD-TbowH7sPspaFgSPow53EQTO75vHrpxiIowXVlrGApaYzOa8pre6HxkHnst6aouKteFUS8FU08kk0ZKIiOFsBSwNVCgXcxKjw__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAJLOHF5GGSLRBV4ZA
And, instantly, somebody can’t open the direct link. No idea why.
Here’s the Academia page with the link:
https://www.academia.edu/41727090/Advanced_Strength_and_Conditioning?auto=download&email_work_card=download-paper
mrjonathanr:
I’ll have look at that, thanks. Looks like something to dip into rather than read start to finish. I notice Chapter 9 is written by Tim Gabbett, looking forward to reading that. He’s an authority on managing high workload and injury prevention in case you’re not familiar with him, known for his chronic vs acute load approach: The training—injury prevention paradox: should athletes be training smarter and harder?
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