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resources: Training (Coaches, books and web articles)

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curly ben:
...and does anyone have anything on 'tabathatas' remember reading something on it with regards to campussing/fingerboarding by Mark Pretty/Gresham in climb a while back thought it sounded pretty interesting

slackline:
This information sounds/reads like a prime candidate for UKB Wiki material.  I started a template ages ago (see Training : The Science, but since I do very little structured training had very little to include at the time.

Most of this would likely fit under "Links" section, but where a break-down of each site has been given it might be appropriate to have the summary included.  Either way its there for people to use.

(I'm afraid I'm too busy to spend time re-formatting and wiki-fying other peoples efforts)

account_inactive:

--- Quote from: curly ben on November 30, 2010, 10:59:01 am ---...and does anyone have anything on 'tabathatas' remember reading something on it with regards to campussing/fingerboarding by Mark Pretty/Gresham in climb a while back thought it sounded pretty interesting

--- End quote ---

FYI

--- Quote --- The Tabata Protocol--named after Izumi Tabata, Ph.D., a former researcher at Japan's National Institute of Fitness and Sports in Kanoya--is an interval routine developed by the head coach of the Japanese speed-skating team. (It's called a protocol because Tabata and his team took the speed-skating coach's workout and studied it to quantify just how effective it really was.) The workout consists of six to seven 20-second full-speed sprints interspersed with rest periods of 10 seconds.

In Tabata's study, the researchers found that guys who used the routine five days a week for six weeks improved their maximum aerobic capacity (a measure of your body's ability to consume oxygen--the more oxygen you can take in, the longer and harder you'll be able to run) by 14%. What's more, it also improved anaerobic capacity (which measures your speed endurance, or the duration you're able to sprint at full effort) by 28%. So the Tabata Protocol is the rare workout that benefits both endurance athletes and sprinters--hard to accomplish. Consider: A study of traditional aerobic training--running at 70% of aerobic capacity for 60 minutes--for the same number of weeks showed an improvement in aerobic capacity of 9.5% and no effect on anaerobic capacity.

The key to the Tabata Protocol's effectiveness appears to be the short rest intervals between sprints. Conventional interval-training guidelines suggest keeping a 1:3 work-rest ratio. That is, your rest periods should last three times as long as the duration of your sprints. But the Tabata Protocol's work-rest ratio is 2:1, which means your rest periods are only half as long as the time you're working. And according to another Tabata study, that formula isn't just more effective than traditional aerobic training, it's also more effective than typical interval training. In that other study, Tabata and his colleagues compared their original protocol to a second configuration of intervals that consisted of 30-second sprints interspersed with two-minute rest periods. Despite the fact that this required subjects to sprint for more time at a higher intensity, the original Tabata Protocol still proved more effective at boosting both aerobic and anaerobic capacity.
--- End quote ---

rich d:
With a 2:1 rest period would this correlate to something like repeaters with 7 seconds on 3 seconds off.or is the rest after each set that'd be more relevant? So you'd say that six lots of 7 on 3 off, would be a minute - then you'd have a 30 second rest before starting off again?

Falling Down:
Also good to mix the fingerboard with a weight/lift movement as one of the exercises.  Some good suggestions from Dan John here: http://danjohn.net/2009/11/tabata-exercises/

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