[axeman]

Hi all just been reading a old thred on the nose at burbage west! Was there the other day looks such a nice line. the problem is I have a rubbish reach been small and iam no where near reaching the good hold (nose), I am desperste to get the small persons beta on it? even more so that i can do the rest of the climb, and gagging to add this 7a to my very small list at that level! can anyone help? 

[Ru]

Easiest small person beta is to undercut to the LH sidepull, put left foot in pocket in roof out left and toe hook the undercut with your right foot then reach through to the better holds.

[Drew]

I've not seen anyone do Ru's method (sounds mental!) but I know some people who are slightly short of stature doing it this way.

[Jim]

err... wasn't that video just how Ru described it???

[lagerstarfish]

I haven't been a short person for many years, but I think that short folk are entitled to a 7a (not soft) tick for The Nose, while us tall folk are only entitled 6c+ if conditions are OK.

I can't believe that I'm admitting that some things are easier for the tall 

[grumpycrumpy]

err... wasn't that video just how Ru described it???

Looks like it Jim ..... Problem is there's no indication of how tall those lads are so it's impossible to tell whether it's the short blokes method or not  .....

[Jaspersharpe]

I haven't been a short person for many years, but I think that short folk are entitled to a 7a (not soft) tick for The Nose, while us tall folk are only entitled 6c+ if conditions are OK.

I can't believe that I'm admitting that some things are easier for the tall 

 

[dave]

The oompa loompa contingent can at least be content that the sidepull way is better climbing. The trick is to not actually use the sidepull, but to use the invisible diagonal sloper just in from the sidepull.

[grumpycrumpy]

I haven't been a short person for many years, but I think that short folk are entitled to a 7a (not soft) tick for The Nose, while us tall folk are only entitled 6c+ if conditions are OK.

I can't believe that I'm admitting that some things are easier for the tall 

Finally ...... The truth is out ..... 

[nai]

Here's my method, same as the other vid but with confirmed shortness:

[tomtom]

I haven't been a short person for many years, but I think that short folk are entitled to a 7a (not soft) tick for The Nose, while us tall folk are only entitled 6c+ if conditions are OK.

I can't believe that I'm admitting that some things are easier for the tall 

   Tsk tsk, remember the first rule of Tall Club....

[Jaspersharpe]

nai - I'm not accepting that video as evidence of an ascent as it doesn't show you topping it out.

If we start allowing standards to slip then we could end up with people making all sorts of ludicrous claims and never backing them up with any type of proof. Next thing you'll be saying you've run a 10.5 second 100m....... or finally done WSS.

[nai]

  i could probably manage a 4 minute 100m or a 2 1/2 hour mile.

And as for The Nose, on this occassion  that was the first time I climbed after Sprog2 arrived, probably after a month or so off, and having done the lower moves I sketched my feet around for a while and psyched myself out of the top moves.  but I have done it before.  And since.  Surely such a significant link is evidence enough?

[Jaspersharpe]

I found the top slightly worrying as I hadn't warmed up so was quite pumped. Fortunately I had a large bald man spotting me and giving me beta.

[nai]

but was it a tall bald man or a short bald man?  Seems it makes a difference 

[Jaspersharpe]

It was this one:

[SA Chris]

Surely such a significant link is evidence enough?

Next thing you will be telling us you soloed 20 foot crack in 10 seconds. And boxed some presents for christmas.

[Steamboat Stello]

Being one of them I can confirm the shortness (in arms at least) of the dudes in question in the first vid. I once claimed this was a shit, tall mans problem for a couple of years. Thought I'd never be able to do it until I noticed some scanned in, hand-written scrawled beta (possibly Fiends?) on here somewhere. Works a treat, highly recommend it.

[grumpycrumpy]

It was this one:

How do we know he's bald ..... I'd like to see a hatless ascent .....

[lagerstarfish]

It was this one:

< vid of bald man with hat on >

With that chump spotting and giving out the numbers, you were lucky to survive.

[axeman]

  wow! cheers all for the responce people! mint! will have to go back freash and get it done! fingers crossed like! looks tricky once again all legends!!! wish me luck!

[Jaspersharpe]

Quick! Someone say something horrible! We're going to lose our rep of being unfriendly cunts to new people asking questions on here.

 

[a dense loner]

if anyone else asks for beta on the nose, get to fuck
same with classic 7a's to do in font, fuck off

[Jaspersharpe]

That's more like it, thanks dense. 

[slackline]

if anyone else asks for beta on the nose, get to fuck
they can use the search function