UKBouldering.com

Pinky traverse, Brimham (Read 1537 times)

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
Pinky traverse, Brimham
November 09, 2010, 09:39:59 am
What's the beta for the last move to the flake? I can't work it out at all! Cheers.

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5037
  • Karma: +141/-13
#1 Re: Pinky traverse, Brimham
November 09, 2010, 11:25:49 am
pinky traverse doesn't go up the flake.you keep going round the arete.

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2937
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#2 Re: Pinky traverse, Brimham
November 09, 2010, 11:35:07 am
The original version finishes around the arete - supposedly around 7c/+.  The nu-skool copout tops out using the high flake at around 7b/+.   

As I recall the beta for the final move was just to do a big throw from below!  I remember it costing me a hell of a lot of skin over several sessions - repeatedly hitting the flake but not quite latching it.  That said, I was working it on a succession of tremendously damp and humid July/August weekends and I climb with so little dynamism that I should be nailed to a trellis. 

Stabbsy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 772
  • Karma: +52/-0
#3 Re: Pinky traverse, Brimham
November 10, 2010, 11:07:55 pm
Outside right on an obvious positive edge, big throw to flake, then sort of push down with your left on the sloper to get left foot up. Think I've got a photo of the move somewhere - I'll try and find it shortly.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#4 Re: Pinky traverse, Brimham
November 10, 2010, 11:13:53 pm
Cheers. That sounds like what I was trying! Must try harder.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal