[yorkshirewarcry]

Can anyone suggest some USA destinations that are likely to be in good condition for a bit of chuffing (or bouldering...) over the Christmas period.  Not too cold, as we may be camping.   If not, then some cheap accommodation nearby.

I'll be on that side of the pond on business anyway, so could probably fly just about anywhere if there's good climbing on offer.

[SA Chris]

I think a lot of the southern states are good, although you can get very cold spells. Joshua tree is the classic winter spot, but can get a bit grim and windy. I always fancied Cochise Stronghold in Southern Arizona, but never got there. Motels near most climbing spots.

[TobyD]

J Tree is awesome, the bouldering is (in my experience) more akin to grit highball / routes territory, but this doesn't stop it from being awesome, there just isn't (again, in my experience) that much yarding on on slopers / rubbish crimps two foot above a flat landing. The routes are great, and very varied. It is very cold when it's windy, when its not its often nice and warm...

If you are prepared to fly from a work destination .... you could go to mexico and hit el puetrero (sp?) chico; i have not been, but i've heard good things from many.

[cmerch]

I live in the States. Actually in the "Deep South". Huntsville, Alabama. We have Horse Pens 4o, which has GREAT bouldering. Nearby is T-Wall, sport and trad and Foster Falls, sport. I could show y'all around possibly.
Cheers and Happy Thanksgiving,
Curt

[yorkshirewarcry]

Thanks all - I'm based in NC for a month or so.  We just had a great weekend at RRG, although it was pretty cold at night.  Awesome conditions at the crags though, so long as we stayed in the sun.

Also visited Stone Mountain, NC the weekend before.

Thinking of heading to Potrero Chico on 16th December.

On the list for the next few weekends are the Obed in Tennessee and either Boone or Rumbling Bald (both NC) for bouldering.  Some great climbing so thanks again for all suggestions.

[SA Chris]

Cool, look forward to some pics.

[duncan]

Winter bouldering in the 'States has to be Hueco doesn't it? Not that I've been.

In my experience of late November trips, Joshua Tree can have spells of great (cool, clear and sunny) or marginal (cold, very windy) conditions.  World-class trad., a little sport, bouldering at TobyD says.  Camping will be cold, there is limited motel accommodation in JT and 29 Palms, or you can rent a place from these people (no direct experience, no connection).

I've just got back from Red Rocks.  Conditions were ideal for 7 out of 8 days and I imagine would still be pretty good in the sun at Christmas.  World-class multipitch trad., very good single-pitch trad. and sport, some bouldering.  The camping was already pretty cold by the report of folk we met, but there are plenty of cheapish motels amongst the many delights of the nearby Las Vegas.

I've had good reports from reliable sources about the granite trad. climbing at Cochise and Mt. Lemmon in Arizona.

[Offwidth]

Done 5 Xmas trips now 4 to Red Rocks/ Joshua Tree the other a road trip with the odd climb around 4 corners. Red Rocks is brill away from shady routes (cold!) until it rains/snows (when you need to move....rock gets snappy) For JT we have climbed in rain and snow and its hard to think what might stop you if you were keen but its nearly always sunny. You need to choose well to get the best out of JT on multiple visits windless days for any shady routes, sun and shelter like Indian Cove on windy days. Be prepared to get spanked on JT slabs!

[yorkshirewarcry]

Cheers again for replies and all suggestions...

We did consider Hueco etc, but decided to opt for Potrero Chico for the Christmas period, as we're mostly looking for routes (ideally sport) rather than bouldering.

I've been impressed by the amount of quality climbing the East Coast of the USA has to offer in the autumn and early winter.

Having been based around North Carolina for the last few weeks we've visited a place called Stone Mountain and scared ourselves on some hideously run-out granite slabs.  These routes made the "designer-danger" slate routes look well-bolted!  Great location though, with camping nearby and south-facing so catches plenty of sun at this time of year.

I was totally blown away by Red River Gorge (roughly a 7 hour drive from NC) - simply stunning area with more crags, spread over a much wider area than I'd imagined.  It seems the area has pretty much everything from bouldering to hard sport.  Something for everyone from trad crack climbing to steep, bolted jug-hauling.  So many inspiring lines at all grades, plus great atmosphere camping @ Miguel's.
We were there last weekend in November and despite the cold and some rain we climbed every day. It was fine climbing in the sun - perfect conditions.  I'll definitely be going back there for a longer trip.

Other places around NC looks awesome - the bouldering at Boone and Rumbling Bald looks so good that I'm surprised more Brits don't visit.  Loads of gneiss boulders spread around in the forest. 

Also some local sport in NC at a place called Sauratown - if anyone has any info I'd appreciate it as apparently it's a well-kept secret and it's difficult to find any route or approach info anywhere.  It's somewhere close to Moore's Wall/Pilot Mtn crags.

From previous "business" trips the crags up in MA and NH are also worth visiting.  Pick of the bunch probably Rumney, but if you find yourself in the area also check out Farley Ledges for some quality bouldering and sport climbing.