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The Shite British Boulder Problem (Read 15569 times)

Adam Lincoln

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#25 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 12:50:33 pm
Quote from: "Kim"
don't worry about it Scouse, everything dave fails on is automatically consigned to the "it's a pile of shit anyway" bin  :wink:

hmmm, there's tons of shite eliminates, and people seem not to like traverses, so we need the worst non-eliminate, straight-up problem.

I nominate....
that B6 right of talk to me martin - awkward, painful and generally just plain nasty.


That b6 is cool! I love it, my fav at Burbage South...

Scouse D

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#26 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 12:51:06 pm
I know Kim, I know...
That B6 is actually one of my favourite grit problems-I think I've always just found it alright.

Bonjoy

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#27 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 12:53:23 pm
Quote from: "Kim"


I nominate....
that B6 right of talk to me martin - awkward, painful and generally just plain nasty.

 Ive always quite liked that one. Nice satisfying sloper catch, followed by a fat hand jam, looks good too.

Scouse D

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#28 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 12:54:05 pm
Out of my tree start at the Tor is fuckin grim, and on grit the B5 start to Green Death-what a bag of shite

Kim

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#29 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 12:54:46 pm
instantly outvoted!  :shock:

oh well never mind....

dave

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#30 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 12:56:57 pm
Quote from: "Kim"
don't worry about it Scouse, everything dave fails on is automatically consigned to the "it's a pile of shit anyway" bin  :wink:


Quote from: "then Kim"

I nominate....
that B6 right of talk to me martin - awkward, painful and generally just plain nasty.


Quote from: "The Pot"
Yo Mr Kettle, i think you're really black.


 :owned:

Bonjoy

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#31 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 12:57:49 pm
Quote from: "Scouse D"
Out of my tree start at the Tor is fuckin grim, and on grit the B5 start to Green Death-what a bag of shite

 OOMT start, how minging is that. Well said, it might just be the most vile thing i've ever done.

Bubba

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#32 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 12:58:26 pm
The main problem with that b6 is the sharp pebble on the starting hold...if your left hand pops then this can easily be the result (can't it underground :D )


LJ

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#33 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 01:51:10 pm
I absolutely hate pebble wall at almsciff, but thats probably cos ive had a gazillion goes at the bugger!  :evil: Not a fan of banana finger direct because before i could do it i must have taken a gouge out of my shin at least once in two goes! :crying:  But my worst of the worst goes to either one of three (all from the peak and all personal!) Millers tail, cos its shit polished shit, that tricks you into thinking its a good problem by being in the graded list! Alaska at Burbage South because i have long legs which means i can barely even reach the start holds from the sitter! or  Strawberries at Curbar. Yep there is my choice, Strawberries because it pisses the shit out of me that i still cant do it!

Kim

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#34 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 02:00:37 pm
Quote from: "The Pot"
Yo Mr Kettle, i think you're really black.


hey, I've done it twice I'll have you know and disliked it both times!!  :D

but everyone else seems to love it....

laurie, banana finger direct is quite unpleasant i'll agree but pebble wall is lovely  :D  I know what you mean about strawberries, but once you get it it's actually quite nice, honest!

Doylo

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#35 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 06:32:58 pm
There's a problem called Pill Thrill i think on Pil Box wall on Pen Trwyn. Its a shite non existent line and you fracture your skull on the pil box if you fall off! I can't believe the problems your all going for Blind Date, Harvey Oswald! Theres so much worse out there! I agree with Dave S about that problem at Stanton. Peak limestone is pretty shit(apart from cragx) but i quite like it.

fatboySlimfast

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#36 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 07:00:07 pm
My nominations are as follows
1. the fucking pocket thing at the tor that crosses the weedkiller traverse, totally minging horrid polished crap
2.jerrys traverse on bubbles wall, stoney. tried it again recently, remembered why ive only ever done it once, polished and painful, a nice combo
more to come i can tell you

Dutch Master Killa

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#37 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 29, 2004, 11:45:04 pm
Agree with LJ that pebble wall at almscliff is gash but what about Basher's problem at Raven tor, b6 goin on b12 :?  Also what about cock o' the rock- k-wality line!

ian h

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#38 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:23:51 am
dont suppose its that classic but twister on the pebble

that puddle really winds me up

Kim

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#39 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:52:11 am
Quote from: "Dutch Master Killa"
Agree with LJ that pebble wall at almscliff is gash but what about Basher's problem at Raven tor, b6 goin on b12 :?  Also what about cock o' the rock- k-wality line!


i was gonna mention cock o' the rock, either piss easy, impossible or anything in between depending on which stone of the wall you start on  :?

a dense loner

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#40 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 07:45:33 am
r we french???

Pantontino

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#41 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:11:43 pm
The amount of attention Jerry's Traverse at the Plantation has attracted over the years has always amazed me. This is a 'locals' problem - fine if you live in Sheffield, but essentially an over graded, arse-drag eliminate (why can't you use the jugs out left at the end?)

Powerband - another over rated 'locals' problem, with silly rules about what sequence you can use at the end (I was told that my sequence was not 'approved'!).

Shite mini problems like Lo Lo at P Ysgo and that bollocks sds to the left arete at the PYB boulder (sorry CJD - but this is utter wank).

Just about every problem on the Snowdon Lady Boulders (OTE featured this bag of toss with numerous photos - I subsequently met a number of very disappointed punters clutching copies of the mag.)



So what makes a shite problem?:

1. it must be an eliminate of some sort and it should not follow a natural line of weakness or even look vaguely attractive
2. the rules must be very silly and confusing
3. the rock should be suspect/snappy/sandy/dirty in some way
4. the holds should be painful and awkward
5. the landing should be bad, sloping or very muddy/boggy
6. the grade should vary wildly, depending on a slightly different interpretation of the rules
7. it should have some chipped or glued holds and plenty of eyesore brush marks
8. it should smell of piss
9. it should feature an awkward semi-crouching start on bizarre specified holds
10. it should feature a violent slappy move to a razor sharp hold, guaranteed to slice yer hand open

Bubba

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#42 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:22:18 pm
Is there one singlularly hideous problem that satisfies all 10 points <shudder> ?

There must be one out there somewher....

Kim

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#43 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:27:07 pm
Quote from: "Pantontino"

So what makes a shite problem?:

1. it must be an eliminate of some sort and it should not follow a natural line of weakness or even look vaguely attractive
2. the rules must be very silly and confusing
3. the rock should be suspect/snappy/sandy/dirty in some way
4. the holds should be painful and awkward
5. the landing should be bad, sloping or very muddy/boggy
6. the grade should vary wildly, depending on a slightly different interpretation of the rules
7. it should have some chipped or glued holds and plenty of eyesore brush marks
8. it should smell of piss
9. it should feature an awkward semi-crouching start on bizarre specified holds
10. it should feature a violent slappy move to a razor sharp hold, guaranteed to slice yer hand open


 :lol:

I'm sure something at minus ten must fit a lot of those....

Adam Lincoln

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#44 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:28:11 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
Is there one singlularly hideous problem that satisfies all 10 points <shudder> ?

There must be one out there somewher....


Hmm, Shit at Higgar satisfies most of them. Apart from the sharp crimp and the bad landing. It stinks of piss, has an awkward start, is an eliminate, etc etc

Bonjoy

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#45 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:37:14 pm
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Quote from: "Bubba"
Is there one singlularly hideous problem that satisfies all 10 points <shudder> ?

There must be one out there somewher....


Hmm, Shit at Higgar satisfies most of them. Apart from the sharp crimp and the bad landing. It stinks of piss, has an awkward start, is an eliminate, etc etc

 Granted it's a sit start. But in what way is it an eliminate? It finishes up piss, but hasn't smelled of it when i've been there. Other than being a sit start it is pretty good by my reckoning, comfy holds, good rock, interesting moves, varied, what more do you want.
  Anything in Tom's Cave at stoney seem's nearer the mark.

Adam Lincoln

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#46 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:39:34 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Quote from: "Bubba"
Is there one singlularly hideous problem that satisfies all 10 points <shudder> ?

There must be one out there somewher....


Hmm, Shit at Higgar satisfies most of them. Apart from the sharp crimp and the bad landing. It stinks of piss, has an awkward start, is an eliminate, etc etc

 Granted it's a sit start. But in what way is it an eliminate? It finishes up piss, but hasn't smelled of it when i've been there. Other than being a sit start it is pretty good by my reckoning, comfy holds, good rock, interesting moves, varied, what more do you want.
  Anything in Tom's Cave at stoney seem's nearer the mark.


Eliminate in the fact you cant use the big ledge for your foot out left  :roll:

Ignore me, iam just bitter as both the guys i went to do this with flashed it and i couldnt even do it after multiple goes :-( Could get right foot up...

Johnny Brown

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#47 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:45:34 pm
Shit may not be great but that last move on piss is ace, however you get there.

a truly shit problem has to be on limestone. Polished, horrible crimping, mudbath underneath - Tom's roof has to take the prize. What a pile of wank.
Check out how psyched Adam Wainwright is in one summer.
However I have heard Parisella's is just a bigger version.... :wink:

Stu Littlefair

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#48 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:51:52 pm
Quote from: "Pantontino"

So what makes a shite problem?:

1. it must be an eliminate of some sort and it should not follow a natural line of weakness or even look vaguely attractive
2. the rules must be very silly and confusing
3. the rock should be suspect/snappy/sandy/dirty in some way
4. the holds should be painful and awkward
5. the landing should be bad, sloping or very muddy/boggy
6. the grade should vary wildly, depending on a slightly different interpretation of the rules
7. it should have some chipped or glued holds and plenty of eyesore brush marks
8. it should smell of piss
9. it should feature an awkward semi-crouching start on bizarre specified holds
10. it should feature a violent slappy move to a razor sharp hold, guaranteed to slice yer hand open


Fuck - now you've focussed my mind I've realised that the UK's WORST problem is the slopey traverse at bonehill:

This problem is polished, painful, arbitrary, is always plastered in chalk and has very, very poor moves. The landing is always muddy.  The crux is keeping your ARSE of the ground, never mind your feet and for some reason you're not supposed to heel hook. AND if you have more than two goes you need a blood transfusion.

I will accept no argument, the search stops here.

Adam Lincoln

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#49 The Shite British Boulder Problem
January 30, 2004, 12:53:14 pm
Quote from: "Stu Littlefair"
Quote from: "Pantontino"

So what makes a shite problem?:

1. it must be an eliminate of some sort and it should not follow a natural line of weakness or even look vaguely attractive
2. the rules must be very silly and confusing
3. the rock should be suspect/snappy/sandy/dirty in some way
4. the holds should be painful and awkward
5. the landing should be bad, sloping or very muddy/boggy
6. the grade should vary wildly, depending on a slightly different interpretation of the rules
7. it should have some chipped or glued holds and plenty of eyesore brush marks
8. it should smell of piss
9. it should feature an awkward semi-crouching start on bizarre specified holds
10. it should feature a violent slappy move to a razor sharp hold, guaranteed to slice yer hand open


Fuck - now you've focussed my mind I've realised that the UK's WORST problem is the slopey traverse at bonehill:

This problem is polished, painful, arbitrary, is always plastered in chalk and has very, very poor moves. The landing is always muddy.  The crux is keeping your ARSE of the ground, never mind your feet and for some reason you're not supposed to heel hook. AND if you have more than two goes you need a blood transfusion.

I will accept no argument, the search stops here.


that the thing left of the wave? Or am i in the wrong place?

If so agreed, shite!

 

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