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[Bathford, Avon][Sally-in-the woods][One Infinity][V? / 8b+] (Read 5681 times)

Tommy

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Thankfully (my van might not have taken many more trips down South!) I finally got my long term project in Bathford finished. All local projects from now on - must stop destroying the planet!!  ;D

Climbs the original problem of All Elements (V11) to the lip of the cave and then traverses leftwards along the entire lip with heel hooks and funkiness to reach a point of very pumped arms. It's a really long boulder problem essentially (24-27 moves, depending on how you do it) so I'm going to give it a route grade for the moment as it feels like a route to me (8b+). If El Mocho can get his arse back down there he can confirm the boulder grade for me  :)

I've climbed All Elements quite a few times now in the process of working One Infinity, but it's one of those problems that really kicks in once you have to start pulling beyond the 15 move mark. Fell of those last few moves too many times for my poor old mid-aged heart... Pleased to have done something that really felt hard for me.



ferret

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a long V11 wud be 8b-8b+ on its own, no? maybe all elements is easier or yor new things harder.....

Tommy

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It has been suggested that it's harder than 8b+, but I'm no sport wad so I'll stick with that for the minute. Pete Whittaker reckoned that All Elements is hard V11 (it took him 6 days if I remember correctly) and who know's about the link-up as he's not been down there to sample this delight yet!  ;D

Always really hard to tell how hard something is when you know it well and it suits your strengths. If only there were more hard cracks out there....  :boohoo:

SA Chris

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Plenty up here. You need to make some trips to redress all the damage from those trips South.

ferret

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a hard v11 into more hard climbing, not a soft tick for 8b+  :o effort

Tommy

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Plenty up here. You need to make some trips to redress all the damage from those trips South.

Where is "here"? Please do pass on info on any hard cracks - I love hearing about that stuff!

Ferret - honestly it's probably not too bad - it feels just too unlikely for me to give any harder than 8b+. If you saw how I climb (and what a weak trad climber I am) you'd probably quite impressed I'd even ticked an 8b+ to be honest!!  ;D

chillax

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what a weak trad climber I am

Savage effort Tommy, well done! but dont take the piss  :P Lots of cracks at Fair Head. If I ever come across something that looks too desperate will let you know  :)

SA Chris

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Where is "here"? Please do pass on info on any hard cracks - I love hearing about that stuff!

Scotland. We've had this conversation before.

First things to mind;

Burning Desire - Ardmair plus a few other things there.

Must be some at Reiff

Easier, but apparently awesome is Crack of Ages at Seana Mheallan near Torridon.

North West Eliminate - Sheigra. Of which Boysen quipped after the FA - "That'll ladder their fancy fucking stockings"

Simon Nadin's hard new thing on Ben More (?)

I'm sure Richieb can fill in a few more suggestions.

El Mocho

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Nice one Tom
If El Mocho can get his arse back down there he can confirm the boulder grade for me  :)

I was all packed up to go down there again on the way to a weekends work when a poorly child delayed my trip by a day. Soon soon I hope to get back there, with some finger tape this time!

granticus

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Plenty up here. You need to make some trips to redress all the damage from those trips South.

Where is "here"? Please do pass on info on any hard cracks - I love hearing about that stuff!

Or you could do more damage and redress it later....The roof crack near Acheball at Hartland Quay is still awaiting the attention of a crack fiend.

Tommy

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Chris - ah yes. my memory is as shit as ever! I think I may have even said in reply before that I'm mainly motivated for long trips if there's something really quite hard. I know some of those mentioned aren't exactly easy.... but they're not quite cutting edge either. Such a grade whore that I am....  :whistle: or at least nasty hard crack whore that I am.....  ;D

Ben - ah nice one! Glad you're heading down again. Just in case you didn't know the cave gets zero seepage so don't worry if it has been tipping it down with rain the day before you go. Good luck - let me know if you get either/both of the lines done.

Granticus - yeah I know that Hartland Quay this is so conditions dependent though! I get such a limited time to travel that far that it really needs to be slightly more reliable. Maybe I'll get desperate this year or perhaps a nice holiday with the wife down to Devon is in order.... Very inspiring line though, for sure. Anyone managed to get all the moves or links done on it yet?

granticus

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Quote
Very inspiring line though, for sure. Anyone managed to get all the moves or links done on it yet?
Apparently some of the moves have been linked, as you say very conditions dependent.  A neap tide for drier rock, combined with some cross/onshore breezes, a small swell and a friendly beach height would make life easier but getting this combination is rare. It is desperate and definitely one for someone who enjoys  :spank: that sort of thing. 

SA Chris

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Such a grade whore that I am.... 

Not kidding! Several trips down to Bath to grovel in a dusty cave, but won't head up here to climb on some of the best rock in the Uk. You need to sort out your priorities! :)

priscilla wimbush

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Climbs the original problem of All Elements (V11) to the lip of the cave and then traverses leftwards along the entire lip with heel hooks and funkiness to reach a point of very pumped arms. It's a really long boulder problem essentially (24-27 moves, depending on how you do it) so I'm going to give it a route grade for the moment as it feels like a route to me (8b+). If El Mocho can get his arse back down there he can confirm the boulder grade for me  :)

I've climbed All Elements quite a few times now in the process of working One Infinity, but it's one of those problems that really kicks in once you have to start pulling beyond the 15 move mark. Fell of those last few moves too many times for my poor old mid-aged heart... Pleased to have done something that really felt hard for me.

Great effort Tommy - it's good to have these enduro-monsters dotted around the country to play on. I'd be interested in the bloc-grade too?

 

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