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[yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+] (Read 11115 times)

Nigel Poustie

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[yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
October 30, 2010, 08:06:09 pm
Today I did the project listed on pg103, B17 P11 at Brimham Lover's Leap Left area. I did it from a sit start, even though it's listed as stepping from the boulder in the guide - I think this makes a significant difference to the difficulty.

I'd practiced and cleaned this on toprope on previous visits and I felt like today was the day. Having hulked numerous bouldering mats across from the car to the base of the problem, I did it and am well chuffed!

I think this is the best new problem I've done since Pebble Dash - it really is a significant line...get your arses over there!

There will a video to follow once it's been sorted, but in the meantime here some photos to illustrate the line and some of the climbing.








SA Chris

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#1 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
October 30, 2010, 08:27:44 pm
Nice work, plum line. Is your spotter in the red beanie standing very far away?

Jim

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#2 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
October 30, 2010, 11:39:51 pm
looks great. nice one

priscilla wimbush

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#3 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 01, 2010, 12:19:53 pm
 :) Looks neat Nige, I'm glad you've joined us over here at UKB now that JP/YG is broken. I await the video with interest.

Nigel Poustie

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#4 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 01, 2010, 12:32:18 pm
Thanks all.
The video will a bit of time cos my video camera and computer don't talk to each other, so I'm going to go over to Faye's mums to put it up. Should be Wed eve if I can make her computer work!

Nigel Poustie

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#5 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 03, 2010, 07:51:19 pm
I'm not sure if this is going to upload as a video? I have just done the same as if it were a photo?
If not there's a video on you tube of this problem, It's not amazing but it shows the problem. if it hasn't worked, is it possible for someone to get it for you tube and put it on here. That would be great.


chillax

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#6 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 03, 2010, 07:57:46 pm
I'm not sure if this is going to upload as a video? I have just done the same as if it were a photo?
If not there's a video on you tube of this problem, It's not amazing but it shows the problem. if it hasn't worked, is it possible for someone to get it for you tube and put it on here. That would be great.



You have to put it in as a link. Looks well good though, nice one  :thumbsup:


Nigel Poustie

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#7 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 03, 2010, 08:04:00 pm
Thanks Chillax,
You beat me to it, I had just worked it out and was about to post it up properly.
Thanks a lot.

slackline

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#8 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 04, 2010, 06:26:32 am
With videos all you need to do is past the URL of the page hosting it, ignore the "embed html" code/links and no need for BBcode markup, the forums software is smart enough to work the rest out.

priscilla wimbush

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#9 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 08, 2010, 05:35:22 pm
That looky good, I'll looky see soon.

andy_e

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#10 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 10, 2010, 11:17:47 pm
Had a play on this today, it's a great problem! The only reason I didn't get the tick though is because I have neither enough mats nor enough balls...

Nigel Poustie

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#11 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 12, 2010, 06:02:18 pm
Andy, where did you get to on it?

andy_e

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#12 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 13, 2010, 12:24:04 am
Reaching out to the pebbles and then rocking up on the boss. Terrifying landing!

Nigel Poustie

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#13 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 13, 2010, 07:55:48 am
Good effort!
If you were where I think you where you'd nearly done it and were over the worst part of the landing, how did you bail from there?
Why didn't you just do it, surely it would have been easier than giving up from there!
Maybe I've misunderstood where you were.
Anyway nice one for trying it, Brilliant problem isn't it.
« Last Edit: November 13, 2010, 08:12:15 am by Nigel Poustie »

Nigel Poustie

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#14 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 13, 2010, 08:21:06 am
I went there yesterday and I'm beginning to doubt the grade I have given it, what do you think?
I think it could be a bit easier.
It's easy it get over excited when your doing such a quality new route.

Adam Lincoln

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#15 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 15, 2010, 07:15:16 pm
Repeated by Jordan today.

SA Chris

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#16 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 15, 2010, 07:40:01 pm
Not that he is the best person for giving objective opinions on grades!

Sypeland

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#17 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 15, 2010, 09:04:17 pm
Nice one Nigel, often looked at that piece of rock and wondered 'when'.

I think there is still a lot more to do at Brimham.

Sypeland

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#18 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 08:58:16 am
I must admit though at first I was a little confused as I didn't recognise the massive roof to the left, on scrolling down to the second photo I realised it wasn't a roof, it was a shadow...d'oh!

Nigel Poustie

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#19 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 11:22:17 am
Well done to Jordan, I was there yesterday-was it late in the day that he did it?

Adam Lincoln

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#20 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 11:29:10 am
Well done to Jordan, I was there yesterday-was it late in the day that he did it?

It was dark! (Almost) Great problem, was quite damp and scrittley. I was a bit put off by the sit start. Thought it added difficulty but not quality. I almost did it from standing, was about to go to break with right hand but got the willies! Not a great landing. Will go back and finish with more pads.

Nigel Poustie

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#21 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 11:39:13 am
Cool, I did the sit start because you can reach the good hold in the flake from the block and you miss out a lot of good climbing, i think. Grade? I'm thinking 7b+ is the ceiling for this one in hindsight.

Adam Lincoln

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#22 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 11:42:57 am
Cool, I did the sit start because you can reach the good hold in the flake from the block and you miss out a lot of good climbing, i think. Grade? I'm thinking 7b+ is the ceiling for this one in hindsight.

I didn't do it, so can't give you a proper answer on grade. Though i can say that if the landing was flat, from standing it might be 7a+? Really good though and once it cleans up with more traffic, will be even better. Nice one.

Nigel Poustie

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#23 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 11:47:17 am
Wow, That's a serious downgrading.
It must be harder than that.
I think you should be doing from sit anyhow, you're miss out a lot of moves!

Adam Lincoln

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#24 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 11:57:17 am
Wow, That's a serious downgrading.
It must be harder than that.
I think you should be doing from sit anyhow, you're miss out a lot of moves!

That's for the stand though. Add the sitter and you are up into the mid to high 7's like you thought.

Nigel Poustie

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#25 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 12:07:31 pm
Yeah, I think so.
it's a lot easier too when you've got a video and photos to look at.
Things feel quite different when they are been done for the first time.
Cheers for getting up there and trying it, it makes it worth while when your problems are getting tried.

Adam Lincoln

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#26 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 04:07:34 pm
I posted this in non quality bouldering vids, but for reference posted here too.


Stubbs

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#27 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 05:36:14 pm
How could you worry about the landing with that golden haired beauty there to catch you!

Nike Air

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#28 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 07:44:15 pm
Good problem Nigel, well done for cleaning it and getting it on here. Takes effort for sure.
The sitter was weird trying to keep your feet off the more horizontal piece of rock that lay 1cm below the starting footholds but i can see where you were coming from.
Our sequence was total free style and kept us more above the flat landing zone than yours now having seen ya vid.
Well done trusting your feet on them friable holds whilst pulling on sharp pebbles!! could have been nasty!
reckon 7b+max , hope more folk add it to there day out.

How could you worry about the landing with that golden haired beauty there to catch you!
He wrote the how to spot/belay manual and is about to make his big comeback..... beware!!

andy_e

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#29 Re: [yorkshire][brimham][E.S.P][7c+]
November 16, 2010, 09:10:18 pm
I think lank probably makes it easier too, I just reach off the further-out pocket.

 

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