UKBouldering.com

Approach Shoe recommendations (Read 46119 times)

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
#50 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
April 02, 2016, 01:28:10 pm
Inov8 F-Lite 195 is the shoe for near weightless harness clipping & yet not dying on the descent

+1. Or one of the X-talons with a deeper stud.

Expensive, not that durable, but ideal for LH+F.

Primark did an F-lite knock-off (50g heavier and £70 cheaper) last year but blink and they were gone.


Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
#51 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
April 02, 2016, 01:40:01 pm
Inov8 F-Lite 195 is the shoe for near weightless harness clipping & yet not dying on the descent

+1. Or one of the X-talons with a deeper stud.

Expensive, not that durable, but ideal for LH+F.

DUrability isn't that bad. I've had mine for two years, do all my indoor training in them that requires shoes (stair climbing, step-ups, weights), plus a a few weekends of long approaches/descents per summer, plus couple of full days hiking/scrambling in the Kaisergebirge in bad weather. The mesh is a bit scuffed on the outside of one of them, but I expect to get another two summers out of them.

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 545
  • Karma: +44/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
#52 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
April 02, 2016, 02:16:05 pm
After year's of pursuing the perfect approach shoe, I have now settled for a skate shoe - wellies combo. Either or rather than at the same time. Loads cheaper, more durable and effective.  Mind you not great for mountaineering,  but I have mountain boots for that...

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#53 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 20, 2016, 01:07:17 pm
Been wearing Camp 4 tennies for ages now and my current pair are about to drop off my feet. They annoy me because they soak up water like a sponge and take absolutely ages to dry out too. Any recommendations for a shoe (traditional "climbing" approach shoe or even a running shoe) that will tick the boxes in this order of priority:

1. Good in the mud/wet grass/rocky approaches
2. Good water resistance
3. Sticky for scrambling round the base of the crag and for climbing up to about HS

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#54 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 20, 2016, 01:35:11 pm
Been wearing Camp 4 tennies for ages now and my current pair are about to drop off my feet. They annoy me because they soak up water like a sponge and take absolutely ages to dry out too. Any recommendations for a shoe (traditional "climbing" approach shoe or even a running shoe) that will tick the boxes in this order of priority:

1. Good in the mud/wet grass/rocky approaches
2. Good water resistance
3. Sticky for scrambling round the base of the crag and for climbing up to about HS

Can confirm that Scarpa Zen Pros and Scarpa Vitamins both absorb water like there's no tomorrow. You'd think being even slightly water resistant would be a basic requirement for outdoorsy shoes.
« Last Edit: October 20, 2016, 01:55:52 pm by 36chambers »

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3078
  • Karma: +149/-5
#55 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 20, 2016, 02:06:16 pm
Been wearing Camp 4 tennies for ages now and my current pair are about to drop off my feet. They annoy me because they soak up water like a sponge and take absolutely ages to dry out too. Any recommendations for a shoe (traditional "climbing" approach shoe or even a running shoe) that will tick the boxes in this order of priority:

1. Good in the mud/wet grass/rocky approaches
2. Good water resistance
3. Sticky for scrambling round the base of the crag and for climbing up to about HS

Flat soled approach shoes for UK winter use questing about on the moors are sub optimal when you consider the huge range of fell/trail shoes out there. They have a more suitable sole, are designed to get wet and dry easily and some of them have sticky rubber e.g. Sportiva Bushido. You might not look cool like Sharma, but you can also do some hill reps after throwing down on your remote, hill side bloc. Oh, and they're light so you can clip em to your harness if you also do trad.

Duncan campbell

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 764
  • Karma: +47/-2
#56 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 20, 2016, 02:10:55 pm
I bought a pair of Scarpa Crux at the start of the summer and I really rate them - pretty good on rock (not as good as tennies) but way better on mud and relatively water resistant (they were great when I first got them - they are understandably less good now but I imagine if I gave them a proofing they'd be better) they dry out fairly quickly too

They are pretty light, but also quite comfy and supportive and aren't sweaty (+stinky) as sin in the summer.

Seem to be pretty durable as well. I only really wear them for actual crag approaching but I reckon I'll easily get another year out of them.

Not dirt cheap but they aren't too expensive?

I personally find the fact that fell shoes are designed to get wet and dry quickly a bit shit as my feet get wet and then its grim putting my shoes back on in winter. I personally use fell shoes for mountain (+ main cliff) cragging where I need to chum about on steep mud + grass and carry my shoes up a route - but thats just me

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#57 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 21, 2016, 12:40:27 am
Quote from: Paul B
As I'm mostly venturing to sport locations ATM and currently have no big trips planned I've gone for the 'das. For shoes that I'd clip to a harness (or more often than not my second) I haven't a clue what I'd buy.

I glued the 'das this week which given they haven't had overly harsh use seems a bit poor.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4315
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#58 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 21, 2016, 08:54:06 am
I bought a pair of La Sportiva Gandas for my last US trip (when I had money!!)  and they were very good for that (aid, easy cracks, approach in dry/rocky terrain)  but they had the usual dimple-sole issues in the mud.  I later got them resoled with a vibram lugged sole and they were transformed into a much better all-rounder.

This last US trip I opted for a pair of trail running shoes as we weren't aiding, my Gandas had been binned and I couldn't afford 2 pairs and needed some runners anywya. Got some Asics Tacoma Gel which were really bad. Fell to pieces (ok, talus is not what they're designed for) but even back in Scotland they're shit for running - no grip on wet rock whatsoever and not very supportive (tired feet). Won't do that again!


Why do I tell this?

A few friends have the cheaper, lugged sole La Sportiva ... oh  .... Boulder X. But wait, as I type I was on banana finger where they seem to get a poor write-up from many people fro durability....  Someone mentioned Haglofs Vertigo 11GT but that might not exist anymore. 

P'ah, who knows.

These popped up too https://www.ellis-brigham.com/products/the-north-face-mens-verto-plasma/206452  but I have no idea if TNF shoes are any good.


Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4315
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#59 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 21, 2016, 09:01:29 am
Anyone know the difference between and "adventure shoe" and an approach shoe?

http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/climbingapproach/tx4

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#60 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 21, 2016, 09:12:44 am

I personally find the fact that fell shoes are designed to get wet and dry quickly a bit shit as my feet get wet and then its grim putting my shoes back on in winter. I personally use fell shoes for mountain (+ main cliff) cragging where I need to chum about on steep mud + grass and carry my shoes up a route - but thats just me

I reckon the answer for much UK approaching are 'trail' shoes with some degree of waterproof/resistant liner. Dozens out there; eg asics, Adidas, Salamon etc. They are usually less expensive than branded approach shoes, have lugged durable soles, keep your feet dry on most stuff and you can run in them if you want to. Pretty light as well usually. They aren't perfect for actually climbing, but most uk   approach doesn't really need this anyway. IMHO, tennies etc are amazing in California but basically useless for much in the uk beyond what you can walk to in flip flops anyway. They do say 'im a climber' in the pub, which is probably why most of them are worn though!

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#61 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 21, 2016, 09:19:02 am
Actual 'approach' shoes a la tennies and similar are designed for the californian approaches walking up low angle granite slabs for a few hundred feet, and and dry dusty trails. They are brilliant at this; but as more or less everone else says shite at getting to any uk crags except the ones you could walk to in a pair of £2 flip flops anyway. They do however make you look like a climber in the pub, which can be good or bad.

They aren't perfect for actually climbing, but most uk   approach doesn't really need this anyway. IMHO, tennies etc are amazing in California but basically useless for much in the uk beyond what you can walk to in flip flops anyway. They do say 'im a climber' in the pub, which is probably why most of them are worn though!

Are you a bot, Toby?


cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#62 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 21, 2016, 09:54:21 am
The current version of the Camp 4 have really good soles with a deep tread- completely different to the version you have Will. They're less padded too so don't soak up water as badly too. I really like mine.

I've lost track of how many times I fell on my arse in Guide Tennies though. They delaminated too.

creedence

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 40
  • Karma: +6/-0
#63 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 21, 2016, 10:09:10 am
I've been using the Evolv Cruzer Psyche this summer, which I really like.
Really light, and sticky rubber which is the main thing I want out of an approach shoe.
I've found they grip okay in wet grass/mud, better than the Guide Tennies, and they also haven't delaminated like the 5.10s have.

Downside, they obviously aren't the toughest construction, but I reckon I'll get another summer's use out of them, and they are half the price of some other approach shoes.

dave

  • Guest
#64 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 21, 2016, 10:12:07 am
I had the older version of Camp4 a few years back - were fucking dreadful. The heel was way too high and chunky and I would often turn my ankle over on the heel of the boot. The front were not technical enough to climb in, and the profile somehow constricted my toes in cold weather so once you got got cold feet on a winters day bouldering you couldn't get them warm again. Luckily they fell apart before too long.

My current approach shoes are the (now discontinued?) adidas stealth ones. For the type of stuff I would wear approach shoes for as opposed to walking boots they are great.

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#65 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 21, 2016, 01:17:33 pm
Actual 'approach' shoes a la tennies and similar are designed for the californian approaches walking up low angle granite slabs for a few hundred feet, and and dry dusty trails. They are brilliant at this; but as more or less everone else says shite at getting to any uk crags except the ones you could walk to in a pair of £2 flip flops anyway. They do however make you look like a climber in the pub, which can be good or bad.

They aren't perfect for actually climbing, but most uk   approach doesn't really need this anyway. IMHO, tennies etc are amazing in California but basically useless for much in the uk beyond what you can walk to in flip flops anyway. They do say 'im a climber' in the pub, which is probably why most of them are worn though!

Are you a bot, Toby?

 :lol:

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#66 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
December 05, 2016, 03:15:26 pm
I have gone down the route of saying that I'll wear boots more often in winter for seriously boggy, dewy, walk ins; with the approach shoes worn when it's been dry and for summer tradding.

Gone with these (officially to be unwrapped on Christmas Day but may get worn beforehand!).
http://www.sportiva.com/helios-sr.html
They're breathable, fast drying, and very light. Got a weird wavy tread on the bottom which will hopefully be good on steep grass/mud. They also have a pull loop on the back which is useful for clipping them to a harness. The hardest thing about finding a trail running shoe to use as an approach shoe was finding one that fit my narrow feet (Inov-8s are quite broad) which also had a tag loop on the back. Will report back after road testing.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#67 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
January 10, 2017, 04:36:14 pm
Has anyone had a pair of Mens Acrux FL Approach Shoes (Arc'teryx)?

How do they size compared to the average street shoe?

standard

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 327
  • Karma: +9/-1
#68 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
January 10, 2017, 08:06:37 pm
 :sick:

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
#69 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
January 11, 2017, 08:50:19 am
Can't avoid a bargain and my 'das have split, been glued, split again, been glued and now reside in the bin.

dontfollowme

Offline
  • ****
  • Trusted Users
  • junky
  • Posts: 955
  • Karma: +13/-0
#70 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
January 11, 2017, 08:59:54 am
Rock and Run have some Scarpa approach shoes on offer. I can't say if they're any good though.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#71 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
January 11, 2017, 09:53:20 am
Rock and Run have some Scarpa approach shoes on offer. I can't say if they're any good though.

£50 for Women's Cruxes, just what the GF was after. Thank you :2thumbsup:

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2114
  • Karma: +85/-1
#72 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
January 11, 2017, 10:07:13 am
Can't avoid a bargain and my 'das have split, been glued, split again, been glued and now reside in the bin.

Bargain? They seem to be about £150?

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3078
  • Karma: +149/-5
#73 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
January 11, 2017, 10:27:13 am
Sportpursuit are flogging them off for £80.

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2114
  • Karma: +85/-1
#74 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
January 11, 2017, 10:39:24 am

Cheers Tom. Tempting.....

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal