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Approach Shoe recommendations (Read 46128 times)

BB

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Approach Shoe recommendations
October 29, 2010, 11:49:00 am
Hit me up with some beta on approach shoes. As always, beta on bargain bin replacements would be appreciated!

Johnny Brown

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#1 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 29, 2010, 12:10:18 pm
What do you want them for? Approaching crags? Or wandering round font? Or for easy bouldering/ soloing?

duncan

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#2 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 29, 2010, 12:46:01 pm
Walshes, designed to stop you sliding around wet grassy slopes.  I did the Cuillin ridge in a pair and they climb up to VS/HVS just fine. 

As luck would have it I have a pair of size ~10s for a small donation.

BB

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#3 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 29, 2010, 01:56:27 pm
What do you want them for? Approaching crags? Or wandering round font? Or for easy bouldering/ soloing?

Approaching crags and general wandering around, not limited to Font. Is there a specific shoe requirements for Font?

Johnny Brown

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#4 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 29, 2010, 03:05:55 pm
If you're not planning to climb in them I wouldn't bother with approach shoes as such, either get some lightweight walking shoes if you're going any distance, if Caley/ Font etc I wouldn't bother with anything specific, any trainer will do.

wiain

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#5 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 29, 2010, 04:44:59 pm
Hit me up with some beta on approach shoes. As always, beta on bargain bin replacements would be appreciated!

If you're climbing then Daescents every time. Otherwise as Johnny says most things will do for getting to roadside crags. For approaching higher crags or hillwalking  :spank: then something heavier from Sportiva/Scarpa/Boreal is good.

Jim

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#6 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 30, 2010, 12:08:00 pm
I love my guide tennies for approach/climbing in

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#7 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 30, 2010, 02:49:37 pm
I use Five Ten Camp Fours for alpine scrambly stuff on rock up to about UIAA II/III, for which they are excellent. Got caught out in them last year in a big midsummer fall of fresh snow was ok, but I wouldn't want to go on hard snow in them without some kind of spikes, kahtoola crampons or similar. (The only real major flaw is that the heel is quite rounded - less than ideal for descending snow, mud, wet grass)

They are quite stiff & not super-light though - fit & feel is more like a walking boot than a running shoe. If I'm going for a day out where I don't expect to be spending much time on rock, then running shoes (my current favourite: Inov-8 310s) are lighter and more comfortable.

Muenchener

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#8 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 30, 2010, 02:53:49 pm
Walshes, designed to stop you sliding around wet grassy slopes.  I did the Cuillin ridge in a pair and they climb up to VS/HVS just fine.

Either you were off route or somebody finally decided to give the T-D Gap an honest & realistic grade

weakdave

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#9 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 30, 2010, 06:06:26 pm
Five ten free runners are awesome as long as its dry. They arent massively grippy on wet grass but great on everything else and I got up a HVS at Ban Y Gor in mine (and they are comfy for dog walking as wel)l!

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#10 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 31, 2010, 06:18:42 pm
 :agree: my five ten free runners are great for plodding around in and doing easy stuff warming up.

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dave

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#12 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
October 31, 2010, 06:44:37 pm
Don't get fiveten camp fours, they are shit. Worst crag shoe i've ever had. Almost sprained my ankle on many occaisions falling over the clumsy huge heel, and the front of the boot are worse than any normal trainiers for climbing anything technical, i.e. grit, not mountain stuff.

Guide tennies used to be awesome for climbing (especially if sized a bit snug) but wank for walking over any kind of rough terrain due to the lack of any decent underfoot support. However recently they've changed the shape of the toe to more like a conventional trainer, so i suspect they are now shit for climbing too.

If i was going out tomorrow to get a crag shoe to climb in it'd be deascents, otherwise just get whatever cheap berghaus/tnf/hitech walking trainers are on sale in the outdoor shops or tkmaxx.

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#13 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 12:35:27 pm
Fiveten seem to have ruined the Guide Tennie which leaves me struggling for approach shoes. Boulder X don't fit, I'm not sold on the Scarpas.

I've seen some of the 'das offerings but as these are online only I haven't a clue on sizing. Has anyone tried a pair? My current pair of tennie's are glued together with barge cement and may prevent my access to the USA on looks alone (no honestly, I do have enough money to support myself I just choose to bind my feet in rags)!

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#14 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 12:40:00 pm
I've some of the addidas stealth rubber coated trainer things.

As regular shoes they're OK (a bit clumpy but OK)

As approach shoes they are
(a) superb on rock as the have decent rubber, stiff soles and a compact fit.
(b) an utter crock of shit on mud/wet grass/veg ie normal UK winter underfoot conditions
(c) Uncomfortable on rough terrain as whilst they have a stiff sole - there is very little (read none) cushioning.

So for me - they work fine for padding around somewhere when warming up (and can't be arsed to put on rocks shoes) and I wear em down the boozer etc... but when I go climbing, when I get out of the car I change into some old Columbia approach shoes I have. They might be superb for your approach needs (based on a-c above) but for me they're rubbish as approach shoes...

(d) they've worn OK. 

dave

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#15 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 12:45:45 pm
I've got some of the stealth adidas. Worse on wet grass than normal outdoorsy trainers, but a thousand times better than Daescents on wet grass, which were frankly a liability. Very stiff, should be great for mountain scrambling. Not really tried soloing in them or owt, I think the stiffness would take getting used to on grit. I know James Turnbull did Sardine in a pair.

More than adequate for walking into Kilnsey and Longridge.

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#16 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 12:49:55 pm
Got a pair of these bad boys a month ago and apart from the laces, they are holding up well on all terrain so far. Laces are easily replaced so not that arsed about them and for a few fuck alls I'm not complaining...

Paul B

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#17 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 12:51:24 pm
I've got some of the stealth adidas. Worse on wet grass than normal outdoorsy trainers, but a thousand times better than Daescents on wet grass, which were frankly a liability. Very stiff, should be great for mountain scrambling. Not really tried soloing in them or owt, I think the stiffness would take getting used to on grit. I know James Turnbull did Sardine in a pair.

More than adequate for walking into Kilnsey and Longridge.

I'm currently on slicks with the tennie's they're that worn. Given Nat bought here Sportivas the same week and essentially we do pretty much the same thing it's amazing the difference in wear between them.

Sizing; is it another entry to the FiveTen style lottery?

tomtom

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#18 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 12:53:51 pm
I've got some of the stealth adidas. Worse on wet grass than normal outdoorsy trainers, but a thousand times better than Daescents on wet grass, which were frankly a liability. Very stiff, should be great for mountain scrambling. Not really tried soloing in them or owt, I think the stiffness would take getting used to on grit. I know James Turnbull did Sardine in a pair.

More than adequate for walking into Kilnsey and Longridge.

I'm currently on slicks with the tennie's they're that worn. Given Nat bought here Sportivas the same week and essentially we do pretty much the same thing it's amazing the difference in wear between them.

Sizing; is it another entry to the FiveTen style lottery?

Nope - made by Addidas.

Jawohl.

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#19 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 12:54:25 pm
What tomtom said, although I have to say, the build quality is superb, they really are a solidly made bit of kit. In fact, they feel a bit too stiff and supportive to be a good easy gritstone shoe. They are going to need a resole long before the uppers show any sign of wear. I use mine for warming up, the pub and bimbling to and from crags on rocky paths. Had to go slightly large on the size, 44 when I'm more often than not a 43.

The problem on mud and wet grass applies to any of the climbing orientated approach shoes really. For approaching mountain crags in the UK, I've got some Sportiva fell shoes which are the absolute nuts. They weigh fuck all, have loops to clip to my harness and the rubber studs are sticky enough to feel OK on easy rock terrain. On steep grass and mud they feel like mini crampons, and they are pretty good in the snow as well (ice is a different story of course).

I prefer the dual shoe approach, as I've never found anything which works well on rock and steep grass other than a boot or walking shoe with tread and a climbing zone at the front, but these are then too stiff and heavy to comfortably clip to the harness.

dave

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#20 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 01:01:12 pm
Sizing; is it another entry to the FiveTen style lottery?

I think they're just sized normally. I bought two pairs of different sizes then sent one back. Depends how much of a climbing fit you need.

SA Chris

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#21 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 01:06:04 pm
Fiveten seem to have ruined the Guide Tennie which leaves me struggling for approach shoes.

You mean the Insights? I quite like them?

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#22 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 03:30:50 pm
I have an older model of these Salomons. Dry, tough as and very secure underfoot. I'd get another pair.
http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/salomon-mens-escambia-gtx-shoe-b1222604?id_colour=3524

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#23 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 03:48:55 pm
I've been a big fan of Meindl over the years, and have had several pairs of Goretex approach shoes from them. When I came to replace them the 'standard' price for a decent brand of waterproof approach shoes now seems to be £120  :o

I ended up getting a pair of waterproof shoes from Decathlon for exactly 10 fuck alls. These were on sale, still a bargain at full price...
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/forclaz-500-mens-waterproof-walking-shoes-brown-id_8327927.html
No they aren't Meindl, but they are fine, comfy and cost £40 (now) not £125!

As an aside, I was impressed with the range of shoes in Sports Direct. Also worth a visit.

Paul B

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#24 Re: Approach Shoe recommendations
September 23, 2015, 03:55:35 pm
You mean the Insights? I quite like them?

No, the updated guide tennie which look OK in photos but are actually very bulky. They also didn't feel very well made  :slap:

 

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