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Keeping strong with a finger injury (Read 4082 times)

mintyben

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Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 12, 2010, 03:25:31 pm
Due to knackering my finger I'm on an enforced climb free period and don't want to end up all weak and feeble. I've resigned myself to the fact I'm going to end up with soft pansy hands but was wondering how to keep up body/core strength without antagonising my finger.
Got some of those push up bar thingies so I can do some floor work with all the pressure being put strait onto my wrists. Anyone have any other ideas?

Nibile

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#1 Re: Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 12, 2010, 04:55:35 pm
if you're not able to do pull ups because of the finger (you may tape it so that it's impossible to bend?) I'd go for L-seats et similia, or general gym workout. being in a gym sucks but you have many different tools and machines so maybe it helps fight boredom and keeps motivation high. moreover, in gyms they normally have those wrist straps with a hook to be hooked to the pull up bar, the thing that fat mofos use to do lower ab work, when they can't hang the bar. using that you can still do pull ups and all that stuff.

plus, oviously, train the other arm as fucking hell: if it's your weak one, it will fight imbalances, if it's your strong one, well, it's never too strong.
get well.
 


Eddies

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#2 Re: Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 12, 2010, 08:16:32 pm
Get on a finger board and simply isolate the bad finger.
Depending how bad your injury is, after a week or two start using it on slopers and see how it goes, nothing hard, and on the first sign of pain stop!

robertostallioni

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#3 Re: Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 12, 2010, 08:18:00 pm
train the other arm as fucking hell: if it's your weak one, it will fight imbalances, if it's your strong one, well, it's never too strong.

A cold dose of logic.

joeisidle

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#4 Re: Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 12, 2010, 08:32:36 pm
What Eddies said, use whatever grips on a fingerboard you can still use. I've been lucky enough not to have any catastrophic injuries since I've started climbing but whenever I've had a tweaked finger I've found that you can simply climb/train around it by going easy, stopping at the first signs of pain and choosing the right holds.

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#5 Re: Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 12, 2010, 08:40:46 pm
Look on it as an opportunity to really work your core and the much neglected legs... there is a whole set of routes that feel much easier if the power is coming through the legs and the body rather than pulling really hard !! Then catch up the top 1/3 when it is ready !!

rodma

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#6 Re: Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 12, 2010, 08:50:17 pm
My hands are currrently weak as sin, due to broken hook of hamate in right hand and snapped A2 in ring finger of left hand.

This summer is the first time that I had been completely unable to train or climb (I guess i could have done sit ups), which was quite hard going, but once my hand had calmed down a bit i started doing core work, light weights (couldn't pick up even remotely heavy weights), tedious physio exercises for my hands/wrists with the goal of trying to do a full front lever pull-up (still trying)

I really wish i could fingerboard at the moment, but I can only just hold a small campus rung two handed and not without pain. I have still been bouldering though and re-learning/defining my limits and being sure to bail as soon as something doesn't feel right, which is easier said than done (easyish for me, since my ego is pretty small these day)

Personally I wouldn't go for a climb/training free period, unless your body needs the rest, or you are fed up.

Oh and also  :agree: with most of what the others have said (I'm just bitter that I can't play on the beastmaker)

mintyben

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#7 Re: Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 12, 2010, 11:10:42 pm
Well I can't grip anything in my left hand as I can't bend my middle finger at the first joint. May look into some of those weight training wrist straps so I can hold onto a pull up bar. When it comes to each arm I'm quite OCD about making sure I train them both the same so if I can't train my left I wont train my right.

Cheers for the advice, might start doing more rounded training now and balance out all my less used muscles.

rodma

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#8 Re: Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 13, 2010, 10:32:47 am
I had a feeling that you might be a bit too broken.

Most climbers definition of an injured finger is mild inflammation of a pulley.

I went through a few weeks this summer where I couldn't really do anything, like put my hand in my pocket, turn a door knob or pick up a mug or glass by its handle. It's ridiculously frustrating

Good luck with your recovery.

joeisidle

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#9 Re: Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 13, 2010, 08:01:12 pm
Well I can't grip anything in my left hand as I can't bend my middle finger at the first joint. May look into some of those weight training wrist straps so I can hold onto a pull up bar. When it comes to each arm I'm quite OCD about making sure I train them both the same so if I can't train my left I wont train my right.

Cheers for the advice, might start doing more rounded training now and balance out all my less used muscles.

Ah, fair enough then, in that case what everyone else said  :agree:

Dexter

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#10 Re: Keeping strong with a finger injury
November 13, 2010, 09:12:59 pm
do you have a beastmaker? if so you can do back two pull ups (although be careful not to screw another finger up)

 

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