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Leo Houlding tour delay as 'painfully close' to 1st ascent of The Prophet. (Read 18945 times)

MattH

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Leo Houlding's postponed the 1st date of his UK Berghaus/Heason Events Adventure tour as he's "painfully close to making the first ascent of The Prophet, on El Capitan in Yosemite"

Leo Houlding's 1st lectures will now be Sunday 31st October at the Buxton Opera House and Monday 1st November at the Dancehouse Theatre, Manchester.

More details of dates & tickets at www.heason.net

Berghaus has announced that Leo Houlding’s first show on the Berghaus Adventure Tour 2010 has been postponed. Houlding was due to speak at the Tobacco Factory in Bristol on Sunday 24 October. The show will now take place in the same venue on Sunday 14 November. All tickets bought for the original show are valid for the new date, but full refunds are available on request.

Leo Houlding comments:
“I am really, really sorry about this situation. To get straight to the point, I'm painfully close to making the first ascent of The Prophet, on El Capitan in Yosemite. This is my new route on the world’s great cliff and unquestionably the hardest I've ever tackled. Unfortunately, the conditions have not been too kind over here – it was very hot for the first week, followed by heavy rain for a week – but right now it's perfect. However, I need more time.

“I have never postponed a show like this before and I’m loathe to do it this time. I certainly wouldn’t do this if the route wasn't of the utmost importance to me. First and foremost, I am a climber and this route is a massive objective for me. Once again, sincere apologies for the inconvenience caused, but I have to stay and do this thing.”

Houlding’s sponsor Berghaus is in the process of contacting people who have already bought a ticket for the show. Tickets for the new date are now available and can be purchased at www.berghausadventuretour.com, by calling 01768 774493 or by visiting the new Berghaus store on Broadmead in Bristol.

grimer

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Tim Broughtonshaw

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Good choice

Agreed. Is this the project he was trying years back?

Cheers
Tim

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Ru

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It's shit when work stops you finishing a project, but when your job is being a professional climber it would be shit and ironic. Good choice to stay and get it ticked.

Falling Down

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Good call. I would hope that the people hoping to attend also agree.

T_B

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Definitely got his priorities the right way round. I hope he gets it done (and filmed).

mrconners

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It's shit when work stops you finishing a project.

Work stops everything at the moment, including sleep. So I have to agree on the shit part.

Good effort from Mister Houlding

Paul B

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Ackbar

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What exactly does he have to do to claim the first ascent? Must he climb every pitch in sequence without falling? Or does he just have to start each pitch again everytime he falls?

T_B

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Climb every pitch without falling to claim the FA. But ideally, he would then do the whole route in one push, redpointing the crux pitch/es if necessary. This is the 'style' established by Hubers/Caldwell on El Cap. A 'fall free' ascent in a single push would be even better of course, but it sounds as though the crux crack/seam pitch on the Prophet is too hard to expect this?

Falling Down

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But ideally, he would then do the whole route in one push

Which, as I understand, he got to within 2ft of doing last year. The 2ft being the crux section of the crux pitch (possibly the one pictured below)

wiain

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Climb every pitch without falling to claim the FA.

I think he needs to climb all the pitches in sequence. Climbing them all out of sequence is akin to getting all the moves on a standard redpoint - it ain't an ascent. I'm pretty sure that's how the Huers did it. As you say, he needn't do a no-falls ascent, as long as he gets the redpoint of each pitch fom bottom to top.

csurfleet

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Thats a different view to Tommy Caldwell though isn't it, in Progression he was talking about how falling on the last pitch of the Magic Mushroom free ascent meant he was going to have to come back another time to get the ascent done. Is there no proper consensus?  :shrug:

Ru

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In progression he falls 3 times on one pitch on magic mushroom before giving up. Which implies that if he'd done it on one of the attempts he'd have taken the tick.

Jaspersharpe

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When Ondra's been nailing all these big hard multipitch things he's just gone bottom to top flashing or redpointing each pitch (if he falls off). He's not had to go back and do the whole thing again in one push with no falls to get the tick. Logically, a bottom to top redpoint of each pitch constitutes an ascent surely (as TB says, a no falls ascent would just be in better style).

shark

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Are dabs and chain grabs in ?

Jaspersharpe

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If anything's preclipped then he'd better do the downclimb each time.  :spank:

Idol eyes

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There is a "crux" pitch, sounds insane!
Is it Bad to the Bone Free?
Hope JP is in on it... good team!

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i bumped into JP and LH the other day whilst staying at yosemite lodge.

weather seem against them as rain was lashing it down around them

hope he gets it done....9yrs in the making Leo mentioned. pickles leaves tomorrow US time iirc him mentioning, unless he's changed his flight again. as we left the park the weather was beautifully crisp and sunny. gutted to leave

had a look at midnight lightning...i'll save the flash for another visit :)

duncan

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Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles still up there in a portaledge, weather still mediocre.



« Last Edit: October 26, 2010, 09:45:22 am by duncan »

duncan

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Painfully close



No cigar?

Neil F

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Duncan

I think you should credit Tom Evans for those, and provide a link to his site.  The daily El Cap report is really inspiring and Tom deserves recognition, thanks (and a donation) for letting us see (for example) how Leo is getting on within a few hours of the actual event....

Thanks

Neil

slackline

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Duncan

I think you should credit Tom Evans for those, and provide a link to his site.  The daily El Cap report is really inspiring and Tom deserves recognition, thanks (and a donation) for letting us see (for example) how Leo is getting on within a few hours of the actual event....

Thanks

Neil

He links to Tom Evans' site and news report in the previous post.  :shrug:

Neil F

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Okay – thanks for pointing out the link in Duncan’s previous post Slack-line – I hadn’t spotted that.

Nonetheless, looking at Duncan’s most recent post in isolation, I’m not sure I totally agree with your rebuttal, Toby.  Perhaps it will help if I explain the rationale for my earlier post?

I’m well aware that people copy web-content all the time, without crediting the source – and indeed if every such instance was accompanied by a credit, it would all get a bit tedious.  Life really is too short for that!

So the stance I adopt is more “credit where credit is due”.  And for me, the El Cap Report is one of those examples - a valuable and unique service “unique in the world” as Tom Evans describes it every day!

I know Duncan will agree with me on that, and is probably an avid follower of the report himself.  That is why I was surprise to see the photos just lifted and dropped into Duncan’s post, without a further credit.  And I knew where they had come from (could have guessed anyway) because I had already looked at Tom’s latest report this morning, mainly to see how Leo was getting on.

Here’s another way to look at it:-

Do you think that Tom Evans, had he been surfing and happened upon UKB, and happened to look up that thread at the time I did this morning, would have felt a bit aggrieved to see his photos dropped into someone’s post?

Perhaps he would have been really chuffed, but my suspicion is that he might actually have felt a bit miffed.  Yet if Duncan had just put a note saying “Photos from (linked) El Cap Report” then I’m sure he would have been chuffed!

Just my opinion though.  There’s no right and wrong in this stuff.

Cheers

Neil

slackline

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Okay – thanks for pointing out the link in Duncan’s previous post Slack-line – I hadn’t spotted that.

Nonetheless, looking at Duncan’s most recent post in isolation, I’m not sure I totally agree with your rebuttal, Toby.  Perhaps it will help if I explain the rationale for my earlier post?

I’m well aware that people copy web-content all the time, without crediting the source – and indeed if every such instance was accompanied by a credit, it would all get a bit tedious.  Life really is too short for that!

So the stance I adopt is more “credit where credit is due”.  And for me, the El Cap Report is one of those examples - a valuable and unique service “unique in the world” as Tom Evans describes it every day!

I know Duncan will agree with me on that, and is probably an avid follower of the report himself.  That is why I was surprise to see the photos just lifted and dropped into Duncan’s post, without a further credit.  And I knew where they had come from (could have guessed anyway) because I had already looked at Tom’s latest report this morning, mainly to see how Leo was getting on.

Here’s another way to look at it:-

Do you think that Tom Evans, had he been surfing and happened upon UKB, and happened to look up that thread at the time I did this morning, would have felt a bit aggrieved to see his photos dropped into someone’s post?

Perhaps he would have been really chuffed, but my suspicion is that he might actually have felt a bit miffed.  Yet if Duncan had just put a note saying “Photos from (linked) El Cap Report” then I’m sure he would have been chuffed!

Just my opinion though.  There’s no right and wrong in this stuff.

Cheers

Neil

There is a fundamental flaw in your reasoning, and that is that the pictures are still hosted on Tom's site, they haven't been copied to another server by Duncan, but  simply embedded here.

Thus if you right-click on the image and select "Copy URL" you will get Tom's web-site as the site where the picture is hosted and be able to use the domain of the URL to get to the site.

Similarly if you were to quote Duncan's post and read the text which you are quoting you would again see that the picture is hosted on Tom's site and you could again copy the domain from URL.

As the following shows (I've simply quoted Duncan's post and put it within the code tags so that it is not interpreted by the forum), the URL is clearly to http://www.elcapreport.com/...

Code: [Select]
[quote author=duncan link=topic=16197.msg283530#msg283530 date=1288158345]
Painfully close
[img]http://www.elcapreport.com/sites/default/files/3%20unbelievable%20leo%20move.jpg[/img]


No cigar?
[img]http://www.elcapreport.com/sites/default/files/4%20%2030ft%20later%20leo%20is%20pissed.jpg[/img]
[/quote]

I'm afraid the biggest foible has been made by yourself as reading posts with-in threads in isolation does not give proper context and will often over-look important information that has previously been posted, as has happened here.

No malice intended, but the citation of the source is implicit in the structure of embedding pictures hosted on other sites into posts in this forum, its self-documenting, and the ability to embed pictures in this manner is a good thing as the alternative would be to save the picture from Tom's site, upload it to a third-party site and embed it from there.

Neil F

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Okay - thanks for that additional information, Slack-line.  I hadn't realised that this was how UKB worked (I'm not really a technophile, though I do understand your post) and for me there is something much less underhand in linking to someone elses site, than copying their pictures and dropping it into your own.

I had assumed Duncan had done the latter, and I was wrong.  Sorry!

Neil

duncan

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Hi Neil F, I agree I should have made the source more clear.  I am also one of Tom's "Cubicle pukes" as well as occasional subject and appreciate his work.  Neil (slack_line) is technically right but I think its good to be explicit rather than implicit about giving credit and I wasn't on this occasion. 
 
 :hug:

T_B

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one positive outcome though is that I finally know how to embed photos  :lol:

slackline

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one positive outcome though is that I finally know how to embed photos  :lol:

More on it here:)

lukeyboy

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Okay - thanks for that additional information, Slack-line.  I hadn't realised that this was how UKB worked (I'm not really a technophile, though I do understand your post) and for me there is something much less underhand in linking to someone elses site, than copying their pictures and dropping it into your own.

I had assumed Duncan had done the latter, and I was wrong.  Sorry!

Neil

Hi Neil F, I agree I should have made the source more clear.  I am also one of Tom's "Cubicle pukes" as well as occasional subject and appreciate his work.  Neil (slack_line) is technically right but I think its good to be explicit rather than implicit about giving credit and I wasn't on this occasion. 
 
 :hug:

Just had a chuckle to myself imagining how this discussion would have developed on a different website  :lol:. Certainly wouldn't have ended in apologies and cuddles...

duncan

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El Cap has a new free route.

Detailed report and more great photos at Tom Evans' El Cap Pics.

Jaspersharpe

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tomtom

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Superb. and a great write up.  :bow:

Neil F

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Brilliant - thanks for the heads up, Duncan.

Great effort Leo - those moves on that blunt rib look nails!

And thanks to Tom.  I think his pictures this year have been the best yet...

Neil

slackline

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 :bow: Good work, must be a great relief.  Great pictures too  :thumbsup:

lukeyboy

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Wow, incredible news. Amazing effort

Grubes

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Johnny Brown

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Quote
Where actually is The Prophet?  ... over on the right of El Cap somewhere?

Yeah - right of Zodiac, I think based loosely around Bad to the Bone.


duncan

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Where actually is The Prophet?  ... over on the right of El Cap somewhere?

Yes.  The Prophet crosses Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva's route The Secret Passage. 

Edit: as JB says both routes are based on Bad to the Bone and Eagle's Way with some new climbing.


The Secret Passage. Photo Favresse
« Last Edit: October 28, 2010, 09:02:52 am by duncan »

Falling Down

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El Mocho

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Good effort Leo and Jas, must be very proud to have a new free route on El Cap.

Bet there having a few celebratory G & Ts on the flight home!

SA Chris

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Excellent. Nick of time too.

T_B

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chillax

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Excellent stuff! Fantastic effort from those lads  :bow:

Zods Beard

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Last go syke saves the day, brilliant stuff.

Idol eyes

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Bravo... outstanding effort!

boulderingbacon

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props to leo and jas on finishing the prophet. the feeling after all that time must be incredible.

MattH

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Check out an interview with Leo this afternoon on BBC Radio Derby:

http://audioboo.fm/boos/208232-leo-houlding-on-cracking-the-prophet-bbc-radio-derby-29-oct-2010

'The Highlight of my climbing career...'

ferret

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props to leo and jas on finishing the prophet. the feeling after all that time must be incredible.

did somebody english just say "props" i hang my head in shame

good effort to leo etc

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Eddies

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I was at Buxton Opera House last night. That was without doubt the best lecture ive ever seen.
Leo is in a league of his own.

Grubes

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Yea was a good do last night. ended up with a tasty drive home though about 20 yards of visibilty in places getting back to hudds

 

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