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Faders Sum belay (Read 3822 times)

The Aaronator

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Faders Sum belay
October 10, 2010, 08:38:23 pm
Does anyone know where [or if] I can but a Faders Sum belay device?

Or can someone recommend a device that is as good as and isn't a Gri Gri....

Good = fail-safe

Paul B

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#1 Re: Faders Sum belay
October 10, 2010, 09:07:39 pm
Whats wrong with a Gri-gri or waiting a little for the Gri-gri 2?

I've got a cinch, it requres you to belay a little differently and as the attachment point is off center it sits a little funny and the lowering handle is pretty stubby but some people love them.

The faders devices are far from fail safe. I witnessed someone hit the deck in Santa linya as the belayer using one of these devices was pulled off his feet and the lever was subsequently pressed against his chest.

Being reasonably skinny I get incredibly nervous when people using these various devices don't do so normally. None of the options are truly fail safe.

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#2 Re: Faders Sum belay
October 10, 2010, 09:10:31 pm
I used Mina's Cinch and thought it was a pretty good alternative to the Gri-Gri.  That being said there is an issue after a climber has sat on the rope and then you want to release the locking action.  I ended up using some sort of wiggling action. 

Wait for the Gri-Gri 2.  It looks the nuts

Chris also says hi

The Aaronator

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#3 Re: Faders Sum belay
October 10, 2010, 09:23:56 pm
... None of the options are truly fail safe.

Safe = fail safe[er] in my opinion... I understand the risks of all the devices and IMO the Sum offers one of the safer locking mechanisms on the market...as long as you understand its problems and take steps to avoid them. I would go as far to say that the Sum wears out quicker than any other device though, hence the need to update.

Most people that I know who own a Sum would never want to use anything else... I suppose its what you get used to, or are most confident being belayed with [and i'm becoming a whimp in my older age]. I'm sure somebody else will reply with more horror stories.

SpanishJuan

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#4 Re: Faders Sum belay
October 11, 2010, 11:08:07 am
I'd recomend the Cinch, I have loved mine since I purchased it 3 or so years ago. But agree with Dylans point, when weighted it can heavy to unlock.
The other thing is at the moment the cinch seems bloomin pricey to buy compared to other belay devices (Think conversion rate at the time made mine quite cheap). So you might as well wait for the Gri-gri 2 or keep hunting

groundmagnet

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#5 Re: Faders Sum belay
October 11, 2010, 10:41:26 pm
I haven't used the Cinch or Sum but can recommend the Edelrid Eddy over the current Gri Gri.

Advantage 1. Eddy doesn't release automatically when the rope is unloaded.

Advantage 2. Eddy's release lever stays put whilst the cam is being engaged making it more difficult to accidentally release.

Advantage 3. Eddy works on skinny(er) ropes.

Disadvantage 1. Eddy is heavy.

Disadvantage 2. Eddy is expensive.

 

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