UKBouldering.com

[Scotland] [Torridon] [7b+] The Essence (Read 9888 times)

richieb

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 244
  • Karma: +23/-1
[Scotland] [Torridon] [7b+] The Essence
October 09, 2010, 08:18:27 pm

Torridon
by richiebetts, on Flickr

New problem up on the hill opposite the main boulders (turn left along a terrace half way up towards Seana Mheallan crag).
This is the line I had been looking for in the glen for about 3 years! Really chuffed to get this done today. 

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29296
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Nice one Richie, looks like a plum line. Did John Watson report this, or publish a pic recently?

edit - ignore I was thinking of The Universal, which looks good too.

richieb

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 244
  • Karma: +23/-1
Cheers mate. 
Hope not, I only did it today! He did report some of the new Applecross stuff recently. 

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
looks good

Steve R

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 647
  • Karma: +53/-1
nice one, looks great.  Well found and climbed.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29296
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Richie, how much has been done on those terraces now? Have you written it all up? Guess it doesn't suffer with bogginess like the main boulders.

richieb

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 244
  • Karma: +23/-1
Cheers chaps.

Theres a couple of hard problems on the terraces above the ship boulder area done by Dan V (and a few easy ones done by me).  On the other side (south side of the glen) theres been some stuff done by various folk but none of it written up as far as I know. The very bottom tier on the south side has good stuff, Ive been warming up here before going up to this project.
I really should get my finger out and write up all the bits and bobs that have been done away from the ship area.

Less boggy once you are up on the terraces for sure. Getting up to this problem is pretty involved though to be honest. River crossing, bog crossing then really steep heather / boulder bash with no path. Classic.

Good news is someone has kindly dug a trench to drain the ship boulder itself and it seems to be working well.
I wouldnt say it was dry, but its a big improvement.

punkpunk

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 96
  • Karma: +4/-0
good one richie looks wicked. i was up the other week and am well psyched to head back soon. amazing rock

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
Looks amazing.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29296
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Is this the same prob?



Looks like an arete in the other pics, not a prow.

richieb

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 244
  • Karma: +23/-1
Yep thats the same prob. Its a kind of pillar/prow thing standing proud of the crag. I thought it looked abit like queen kong at queens (although I havent been there).
It climbs using both aretes, but with a bit more of the righthand one and a couple of holds on the sidewall.

Another cracking day in the north west today!

north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
Great looking find! That has just gone straight to the top of my Torridon must do list! Good effort!  :thumbsup:

willackers

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 870
  • Karma: +126/-0
    • Vimeo
That looks amazing and it's the spitting of Queen Kong!

Nice one.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29296
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
I thought it looked abit like queen kong at queens (although I havent been there).

Another cracking day in the north west today!

Thought the same, although I haven't seen either of them.

Shite in the NE

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9629
  • Karma: +264/-4
Great looking find! That has just gone straight to the top of my Torridon must do list! Good effort!  :thumbsup:

It does look like kong but looks like I mightn't be so stretched between the two aretes.

Like Queen Kong, it looks f*cking fantastic! When is the best (I know) time to visit Torridon?

richieb

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 244
  • Karma: +23/-1
Anytime between now and May (when the midge comes back) can be good, although maybe not November.
Theres not much daylight to play with and even less sun in December and January. 
Good weather up here seems to come in blocks of a few days and is often forecast pretty accurately. If you can leave on a good forecast at short notice thats probably the best plan.

That said, end of Feb/March has been really good the last couple of years.
If anyone wants better directions to find this new problem or any other stuff just give me a shout.

Mike Lee

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 28
  • Karma: +0/-0
Quote
Getting up to this problem is pretty involved though to be honest. River crossing, bog crossing then really steep heather / boulder bash with no path. Classic.

That walk in appeals to me equally as much as the problem  ;D. Excellent questing buddy. Any news on the Stone Country guide for Torridon?

richieb

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 244
  • Karma: +23/-1
Cheers Mike. Not sure on the guide, hopefully something will appear soon.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
Whoa! Nice work.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29296
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
When is the best (I know) time to visit Torridon?

Paul, with your new found trad head you would have a great time up there. Actually if you went via Gairloch you could use the sport head too.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
 :agree: Some great climbs there...


SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29296
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Is that up at Sienna Miller West (I know that's not the real name but I can't pronounce or spell it).

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
I'm not sure if its West, but definitely Seanna Mhellan, and the approach also included boulder hopping across a stream, and yomping across bog and up a heather covered hill (which was mostly bog too). View from the road (crag is better than it looks from here though).

rodma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1626
  • Karma: +60/-3
That problem looks great (if a little on the tall and scary side)  :thumbsup:

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13476
  • Karma: +682/-68
  • Whut
Nice one  :thumbsup:

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal