[douglas]

What are typically considered the best 7c's in the UK?

Just that I'm keen to try them (and see if they're better than Return of the Gunfighter).

Cheers.

[Andy F]

In Yarkshire you're looking at Dominatrix and Biological Need (Kilnsey), New Dawn, Tremelo and Serious Young Toads (under-rated IMHO) at Malham. Not done loads in the Peak, but The Squealer at LorryPark Quarry was memorable. Phantom Zone and Super Duper Dupont at Chapel Head Scar are worth the drive and won't dissappoint.

[Three Nine]

Cry of Despair at the Cheedale Cornice is fricking awesome!

[ChrisC]

In the Peak then Body Machine, The Prow, Arch Enemies & Cry of Despair spring to mind.  There's plenty of other good ones like Cordless Madness and The Boltest, Toys for the Boys, Celebration etc but they're not exactly up there with the best in the UK (or Yorkshire)

As for The Squealer, the climbing's ok for a quarry, but its pretty snappy and dirty and certainly in a different league to Dominatrix etc...

[Bonjoy]

Mark of the Beast - Lulworth
New Dawn - Malham
Dominatrix - Kilnsey
I've Been a Bad Bad Boy - LPT
The Boltest - Long Tor Quarry (controversial choice for the Peak but not much competetion, Cry of Despair probably the next best, Arch Enemies would be top but these days it is considered 7c+)

[Bonjoy]

In the Peak then Body Machine, The Prow, Arch Enemies & Cry of Despair spring to mind.  There's plenty of other good ones like Cordless Madness and The Boltest, Toys for the Boys, Celebration etc but they're not exactly up there with the best in the UK (or Yorkshire)

As for The Squealer, the climbing's ok for a quarry, but its pretty snappy and dirty and certainly in a different league to Dominatrix etc...

Most of those aren't 7c.
Body Machine is 7c+, the Prow is usually done as one pitch at 7c+ (the 7c pitch on it's own is fairly mediocre, probably the worst pitch on the route), Arch Enemies most think this is 7c+, Cordless is 7b+ (though could well deserve 7c), Toys for the Boys is 7c+. I agree the Squealer is good but no way up there with the best 7cs in the country.

[Serpico]

The single best 7c that I've done anywhere is Pierrpoint at Goredale with the Last Dog start and the Right hand finish - sounds contrived, but it isn't; it makes the route more evenly sustained and reduces the grade from a gnarly 7c+ to low in the grade 7c.
In addition to the other routes mentioned previously I'd Free And Easy at Malham - awesome position and exposure.

[Andy B]

Wild In Me













Only Joking













not really

[dave]

fossil wall, eat the rich, too old to be bold....

[Andy B]

Now you're talking! Although Fossil Wall's a bit of a stamina plod really.

[Jerry Morefat]

Doug, I can tell you the answer right now! All the 7Cs in Yorkshire are better than return of the gunfighter (I know difficult to believe!). All the other 7Cs mentioned in the thread are about the same (except the squealer, what is that doing in the thread?). Simples!

Hope the ankle is on the mend

Duncan

[dpb]

Another vote for The Boltest from me.

Another fantastic south peak route is Wil E Coyote.  It's a one of the best 7c's I've done, over the road from The Boltest and slightly easier IMHO. (not 7c+)

[jowgli]

another vote here for too old to be bold at water cum jolly. Basically a boulder problem 

[Doylo]

Bad Boy of course! Boat People is good too but probably outside the top 5

[Paul B]

I can't believe the Ashes hasn't been mentioned yet!

Its got to be at Kilnsey, it has so much quality at this grade. The Ashes, Comedy, Biological, Dominatrix.

[Doylo]

Isn't Ashes 7c+ you dick?

[Paul B]

 

[Jim]

 

[Andy F]

I can't believe the Ashes hasn't been mentioned yet!

Its got to be at Kilnsey, it has so much quality at this grade. The Ashes, Comedy, Biological, Dominatrix.

Comedy isn't really 7c, nevermind one of the best at the grade. 7b+ and 2* compared to Dominatrix or New Dawn.

[IanP]

Agree that Free and Easy is worth considering, obviously incredible position but I thought the climbing was excellent as well, on good rock that is less sharp than some of the other routes upstairs.  For me just as good, if not better that New Dawn, can't understand why it used to be given 2 stars.   Wouldn't want to join the serial downgraders club but I didn't really find Mescalito any harder than New Dawn and it's arguably better.

At Kilnsey imo most of the 7c's lack that something really special to make the very top, maybe Dominatrix though even on that I thought that the actual climbing wasn't up to the position and line.  Certainly the Ashes is better than any of the 7c's.

[RichK]

Comedy isn't really 7c, nevermind one of the best at the grade. 7b+ and 2* compared to Dominatrix or New Dawn.

Comedy resides firmly in the 7c camp and pretty classic. Dem grades godda start and finish somewhere dontcha-know! Whats with the sudden shift from upgrading to down grading Andy

Extreme Ways at Dinbren is well worth a mention at soft 7c.

[Pantontino]

Wouldn't want to join the serial downgraders club but I didn't really find Mescalito any harder than New Dawn and it's arguably better.

Agree about the quality - what a stunning route - but I'm not having the down grade (that might be because I did it as my first F7c+  )

Just to throw a different flavour into the pot - how about Chummer's Wish You Were Here at the top of Australia in the Dinorwig slate quarries. That is truly incredible (but also probably more like F7c+).

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=192

http://slate.wetpaint.com/page/THE+FAR+AWAY+TOP+LEVEL

[Doylo]

Comedy is definitely not 7b+ 

[Bonjoy]

IMO Mescalito is spoiled by the ridiculously contrived finish. Why on earth is does that weird little traverse left at the top roof leaving you in a really awkard position to clip the belay i'll never know (though i'd goes it's historical artifact, maybe it shared a belay with an existing route).

[IanP]

IMO Mescalito is spoiled by the ridiculously contrived finish. Why on earth is does that weird little traverse left at the top roof leaving you in a really awkard position to clip the belay i'll never know

It didn't spoil it for me since it was an easy decision from the first time on it that I was going to grab the belay chain  .  I guess that I'll be sent to coventry by the ethics committee but as you say it is in a ridiculous position.