[boulderingbacon]

Just wondered if you could tell me the sequence for hands and feet. Had a play on it the other day but didn't have much left in the tank, so would like to know for next time cheers

[slackline]

Knock yourself out

More possible threads with (<-- clicky)

[boulderingbacon]

thanks thats helped a bit. the thing i wondered about most though is after the moves out and off of the block. my rh was on the right sloper and then is it a slap with the lh to the upper sloper. i had my heel on the block at this point should i have just swung them out and campussed it, although im not sure im strong enough for that. i found the moves off the block and out quite easy.

[nic mullin]

Once you get the first of the slopers (at the bottom of the T), try toe hooking with your left foot in the undercut pockets in the roof, then lock up to the big sloper formed by the cross bar of the T. Once matched on this, cut loose, hold the swing and campus up to the big slopey dish/pocket with your right. There's a variety of beta for finishing from here in the other thread - I find it easiest to undercut the break and go again with my right for the jug.

   

[boulderingbacon]

Ah thanks I thought I might be something like a toe hook. I'm going to have to work on my locking off strength now

[ferret]

i've always felt that keeping yor foot on that block for any moves after reaching the bottom of the vertical crack just isnt cricket, but im sure most tall people would disagree with me, wish the block wasnt there in many ways, but the harder blockless version doesnt flow aswell.
top bit get yor guns out and campus, then choose from the miriade ways to go up from the dish, great problem have fun

[aly]

Hmm, I hate toehooks and think that any toehook shananigans in the undercuts just aren't cricket! 

FWIW I find that a deep egyption (i.e.putting the knuckles of your toes on the hold in a drop-knee) on the starting holds (on the block) let me reach the high shelf statically.  I'm pretty sure I'd never be strong enough to do it another way.  I'm 5'9" with zero ape index if that helps so it's not exactly a 'tall persons' way but might be tricky if you're short  .  hth.

[Steve R]

This vid might help - jump to about 2:50 (unless you fancy watching some other assorted puntering of course).  I was struggling with the undercut/heel-toe type methods for the top at first but then a mate turned up and showed me the downward-pointing-left-toe-in-crack beta which felt a bit easier provided you fit right.

[boulderingbacon]

nice one i can see how that would be easier than what i was trying.  noticed you started with lf on the block slightly further out than the back block, is this allowed? i was just starting hands and feet on the back block.

[Steve R]

not sure to be honest - quite possibly cheating.  But then those starting moves are, I think, relatively straight forward however you do them, so most people would let you get away with it.  or maybe not....