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Eagle Tor (Read 3619 times)

Adam Lincoln

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Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 04:50:18 pm
What good stuff is there to do at Eagle Tor. Never been but going on Sunday...

cofe

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#1 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 05:20:24 pm
might be a tad green, but otherwise...

brad's arete, about 7a+ ish - obvious, will have chalk on it and looks like
a font problem ***

the 7a dyno thing called swoosh or something (dave will know) 20yds right of brad's

autumn - 7c, but a savage like youself should pull it down, its up on the right where it clears a bit

face arete - 7b/7b+ good nose/arete just up and left of brad's arete from sitting.

have fun.

Adam Lincoln

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#2 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 05:22:01 pm
Quote from: "cofe"

but a savage like youself should pull it down, its up on the right where it clears a bit


Think your mistaking me for someone else  :roll:

dave

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#3 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 09:05:03 pm
Quote from: "cofe"
the 7a dyno thing called swoosh or something (dave will know) 20yds right of brad's


its the project markind in the guide as "shroom" - non-gaylords will dyno it at a buff 7b.

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#4 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 09:42:14 pm
I might be mistaken but I thought Shroom went to the small crap pocket and then to the slopey top, the crux being the mantle.  The top of shroom is very slopey but there are some good holds a bit further right.  I havent been there for a bit so I might be making this up.
Cheers  

James

dave

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#5 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 09:52:39 pm
from what i remember theres the starting holds low in the break (break and sidepull), then high up theres a shallow poclet and a kind of fin, then a slopey "jug" top then easy ground - i did it by avoiding the poor holds and dynoing straight to the top - does that add up? don't know what everyone else does.

Bonjoy

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#6 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 10:00:24 pm
What you've described Dave sounds like the prob between the tufa thing and the sit start B8 thing. 'Shroom' is the roof thing just left of said tufa, in't it?

dave

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#7 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 10:13:51 pm
after the description for the tufa the guide says "The roof via the poor slopey pocket has been named Shroom...", and since the thing i described is essentially a steep bit of rock with a poor pocket i assumed that was it - theres nowt left of the tufa is there, except a easy break-to-break LH eliminate on the tufa.....or thats what i remember innit......

Pantontino

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#8 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 10:19:45 pm
I reckon Bonjoy has got this right: the top out to Shroom looks desperate/very ungraceful.

dave

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#9 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 10:23:01 pm
so what the fuck is the thing i did then? all i know is its reeeeeeeeet booooo, i tell theeee!

Pantontino

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#10 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 10:33:58 pm
I would say that you've done the blatantly obvious, and rather good looking line right of the sds to the Bulb. I didn't try it when I was there researching the Stone Circles article, but I will next time.

dave

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#11 Eagle Tor
January 23, 2004, 10:36:46 pm
i recon someone most know about it - it can't have been a first ascent, its just to obvious. is the real shroom a high-up roof then?

Jim

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#12 Eagle Tor
January 24, 2004, 12:37:01 am
don't recon you could do shroom by dynoing. Defo right about the top out - it looks way slopeeeyyyyyyyyyyy. Not really tried it properly but you tackle a roof type thing with a crappy slopey pocket

Mike_H

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#13 Eagle Tor
January 26, 2004, 11:33:34 am
Had a wander up to have a look on Sunday before going up to RHS, everything was very green, most of the top outs were wet.

Although the problems all look - how you say, tha bomb

Looks as though it is more of a spring time venue.

Adam Lincoln

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#14 Eagle Tor
January 26, 2004, 11:39:22 am
Quote from: "Mike_H"
Had a wander up to have a look on Sunday before going up to RHS, everything was very green, most of the top outs were wet.

Although the problems all look - how you say, tha bomb

Looks as though it is more of a spring time venue.


Yup, we went Burbage instead. So a wise choice i think!

Percy B

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#15 Eagle Tor
January 26, 2004, 07:14:00 pm
Another case of blatent over-enthusiasm! Wandered up to the Tor with Lu at lunch time, having had a lie-in. Everything was drying nicely, so warmed up and did the circuit a couple of times, enjoying the peace and quiet of the place with nobody else there. Then brushed a nice little block up behind the 'Scaramanger' boulder and did a lovely new little V4 (sit start, hands in crack, grab a set of nice pinchy things, slap the big sloper and bear down for the top!) Its obvious now its clean. Eagle Tor is rarely good first thing in the morning, unless its been dry for a while. Best of following the path of the true lazy bastard, and don't get out of bed until lunchtime! :wink:

Mike_H

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#16 Eagle Tor
January 27, 2004, 09:47:33 am
Alright Percy!

I was one of the other group up there when you arrived, glad to hear you got a few things done, all the lines looked excellent just wasn't enough to get moving on first.

But as the terminator said: I'll be back  :wink:

 

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