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Streaky's Traverse, Almscliff (Read 1563 times)

Steve R

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Streaky's Traverse, Almscliff
September 18, 2010, 10:39:27 pm
really enjoyed giving this a good go in nice conditions today.  Now back home a bit of research leaves me with a couple of questions.  First off, 'the block' - which one(s) is it?  Presumably just the one under the roof at the start?  I cobbled together a sequence without any blocks starting with left hand on the slightly broken flake and right hand further right on lip sloper rail and right heel on just next to it.  First move is then a difficult (for me) lock/snatch to the high pocket with RH.  Would like to do it ultimately with no foot blocks but could be interested to do it with initially as an easier 'bridging' tick if it climbs better?
Finally, does a blockless crossing earn 7C?  (if so, sadly enough, this might provide me with a little extra motivation)
nice problem, I was a bit lacking in tension on the links today(and a bit more flexibility for the last bit would be nice!) but keen to get back on it soon.

moose

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#1 Re: Streaky's Traverse, Almscliff
September 18, 2010, 11:25:00 pm
my sequence, no footblocks:

- Start, RH flaky thing, LH lip nearby, R-heel on lip near LH,
- Pull on, LH to sloper on lip, L-toe pocket under lip (very bunched), match RH to sloper.
- Hurl R-heel into high pocket, big throw LH to good slopey crimp.
- Adjust RH to best bit of sloper, shuffle R-heel down from high pocket to nearer RH.
- Reach RH through to good hold near arete, match LH.
- R-heel on slopey crimp, RH pocket up arete, shuffle R-heel to good arete hold, LH guppy high sloper on arete, top out in scarey rockover fashion.

Felt fair for the guide grade of 7b+ to be honest - I'm not experienced at this level but in the Almscliff traverse league it felt similar to Top Cat, easier than Slopey traverse (without chip), but harder than Fieldside

Steve R

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#2 Re: Streaky's Traverse, Almscliff
September 18, 2010, 11:37:58 pm
cheers for that moose, nice one - that's more or less the sequence I figured except I was starting with hands the wrong way around!  7b+ it is then

moose

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#3 Re: Streaky's Traverse, Almscliff
September 19, 2010, 08:49:55 am
Don't mention it - although I wouldn't take the hand starting position as gospel.  There's an Almsliff video kicking about (on Vimeo?) of one of the local wads doing one of the extended versions (Play Dead?) and I think they start with their hands the other way round.  Their sequence is otherwise the same though.  The important thing for me was realising that it's best to get the LH on the slopey crimp, reset your feet and then do a big reach through - rather than trying to match.  A willingness to risk dislocating my hip by forcing my toe into that pocket also helped!

etjoset

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#4 Re: Streaky's Traverse, Almscliff
September 19, 2010, 02:23:40 pm
It's not any harder to omit the block at the start; you just need to get your hands and feet sorted (R-heel on lip near LH at start rings a bell and you can keep your left toe on the underside of the roof and avoid the block altoghter). I didn't bother putting my right heel in the high pocket, though the rest of Moose's beta seems familiar.

I would doubt that a blockless crossing would earn 7c, I'm afraid, though it's good value at 7b+.

The topout up the groove at the end is quite scary without a spotter.

 

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