[Burns]

Just wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction with this:

I was training open handed crimps on the small 4 finger holds on the bottom row of a Beastmaker 2000, last night. I felt a crack in my ring finger knuckle on my right hand. I immediately thought A2, but the site of the pain is in the palm, behind the knuckle. There is no swelling and it only hurts when pressing hard on the site of the pain.

I can full crimp and half crimp without pain, but open handed crimping hurts.

Any idea what the problem may be?

[Fultonius]

but open handed crimping hurts.

 

WTF is an open-handed crimp other than a perfect oxymoron?

[Baldy]

could be an A1...no idea what you mean about an open handed crimp though...

If it hurts find yourself a doctor and make them xray it.
A2 is easy to diagnose and treat so I didnt bother, but that sounds more interesting.

[GCW]

If it hurts find yourself a doctor and make them xray it.

Why?

[Baldy]

It might show you if you somehow broke a bone in the hand... ... ... not very helpful really as you probably havent done that.

Anyways, Rest it, Ice it.

See a hand specialist if you are worried, consider steroid injection if it wont go away.

and if you were questioning the make comment.........just because asking kindly is for wimps. 

[GCW]

I was questioning the evidence base for Roentgens in A1 injuries.

And steroid for that matter.  I certainly wouldn't go down that route for a pulley rupture.

[Scouse D]

I think he means open handing on a small hold.

[Baldy]

I was questioning the evidence base for Roentgens in A1 injuries.

you have an impressive way of asking that much with the bold type 
I also have very little idea what you mean 

I thought he might have been trying something stupid like trying to hold a crimp like a flatty, in a way which would put a huge amount of stress on the A1.

The steroid advice comes straight from the horse's mouth, i.e. a GP.
I dont pretend to be an expert, but after spending 4/5 months or so not climbing due to injury this year I did do a little reading and saw a physio etc. I just parrot their advice.

[GCW]

The way you said "make" made it sound (to me at least) that it is vital to X-ray an A1 pulley injury, whereas I am not convinced that would be a good first line investigation, nor alter management.

Not knowing the GP in question, and the circumstances in which the advice was given, I cannot (and indeed, would not) comment on the appropriateness (or the knowledge base).  They may well know a lot more than I do about the subject.


I just think that people may well read things on UKBouldering and take them as fact, so I am always very careful about what I say with regards to injuries.

In this case, unless the information changes, I would think there are other diagnoses that are higher up the list than A2 injury.  But the usual advice stands.

[tobym]

  They may well know a lot more than I do about the subject.

fairly unlikely (although not impossible). 

[Baldy]

The way you said "make" made it sound (to me at least) that it is vital to X-ray an A1 pulley injury, whereas I am not convinced that would be a good first line investigation, nor alter management.

In this case, unless the information changes, I would think there are other diagnoses that are higher up the list than A2 injury.  But the usual advice stands.

Nah, more of a
-they probably wont want to put you forward for an xray (I have screwed my wrist somehow and should really have done that instead of going to only a physio)

From the sounds of the pain, it isnt an A2, because those hurt like hell when you crimp but nothing on an open hand.
I only mentioned it because I did it this year, and it's a very common injury that probably doesnt need you to go paying lots of money to get people to tell you to ice it.

The steroid idea is only a long term idea if it doesnt sort itself out after icing and rehab. Should have really made that more specific when I first said it.

_{gp is my mother...}

[GCW]

Treat the patient not the X-ray. 

[rodma]

From the sounds of the pain, it isnt an A2, because those hurt like hell when you crimp but nothing on an open hand.

That's definately not always the case