[Muenchener]

STG: Rehab left ring finger pulley injury
MTG: F6b os
LTG: F7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

Two weeks family holiday in Sardinia. Training Plan: Finger Rehab Through Swimmning & Yoga

M: 30 minutes step-ups with heavy rucksack. This is not getting any easier despite all the mountaineering.
T: Pull-ups, handstands, core.
W: Yoga, swimming. New STG: learn to breathe evenly both sides in crawl. I am currently totally a right-side breather, and this cannot be good.
T: Swimming, yoga.
F: Swimming, if being chucked about in the surf at Cala Fuili whilst attempting to hold on to a small child counts as "swimming". It's certainly a good whole-body workout. Possible new LTG: I go for a walk up to Codela Fuilia and am much impressed by the Tailandia wall, home to several nice looking stalactite-tufa overhanging things in the (subsequent inspection of the guidebook reveals) 7b to 7c range. These look possible; on most of them I can get off the ground in sandals, and reaching the first bolt mostly looks feasible. And if reaching the first bolt is feasible, then so is reaching the second bolt ...
S: Swimming, yoga.
S: Yoga, swimming, sand sprints, campusing on ladder on a lifeguard's tower. 1-2-4. Oh dear. New MTG: 1-3-5.

M: Hike to Tiscali. Tiscali is a collapsed cave on top of a hill, containing the ruins of a settlement built by refugees from Roman slave traders around 200BC. Very beautiful and interesting place that would be even more interesting without the pesky ruins, since it has huge overhanging walls of golden flowstone and would be a world-famous mecca for hard sport climbing. Instead it is a pleasant albeit hot family walk. Afterwards go to beach & do yoga.
T: Yoga and ... climbing! Posada. Scruffy little crag, definitely only worth visiting if you are (a) staying in the next village, (b) climbing with a child who will enjoy the two easy routes that end - excitingly if you are seven years old - in a cave. Do those and a couple of other easy routes, have a distressingly hard time on a slabby F5b that has a couple of thin moves.
W: Climbing! Cala Fuili. Take my son up some easy routes / belay him on his first lead, then do a couple more F5bs, one of which, unlike the one yesterday, turns out to be easy. Nevertheless MTG feels further away than I was expecting. Swim.
T: Capo Testa. "Bouldering" - which, however, at Capo Testa due to crumbly rock and lethal landings actually means scrambling about posing for photos and not actual bouldering per se. Swim.
F: Hotel Supramonte: fail to get off ground. Family hike in Goroppu Canyon. Fail to get off ground on Hotel Supramonte in running shoes, with injured finger  Nice hike; Hotel Supramonte wall is up there with El Capitan as Most Impressive Piece Of Rock I Have Ever Seen.
S: Swimming, sand sprints, yoga.
S: Yoga, swimming. STG "breathe both sides" reached just in time for end of holiday.

Status of the finger rehab: hmm. Now six weeks from the time of the injury. I can climb easy routes on big holds without the finger hurting, as long as I remember a few basic precautions like first two fingers in pockets instead of middle two. Wouldn't boulder yet or try anything fingery. The finger is less tender when I massage & stretch it than it was a couple of weeks ago, but there's still definitely some inflammation and stiffness. The fact that the injured finger is my left ring finger gives me a useful indicator: I can't get my wedding ring on again yet.

Training plan for next week: wife away on business, am single parent. Finger Rehab Through Involuntary Resting.

[Monolith]

STG's: Get back moving after months of bare activity. Lots of route volume to induce muscles. Do Mudjakeewis.
MTG's: Get boulder project done in Sep/Oct when cooler temps.
LTGS: Boulder-wise some quality 8a's in Chironico and a tick of something hard and classic would be nice on the end of a rope.

Mon - Did routes at Frogsmouth with Jim. Much much fun.
Tue - Rest
Wed - First session back on the board. Also did beastmaker and campus touches. Not a power animal and felt tired.
Thurs - Rest
Fri - Went wedding and drank and ate lots.
Sat - Rest
Sun - Arose 5.45 for Gaskins type siege on the Orme. Raining early doors so no routes and went in cave. Minced about in there and felt slightly asleep but woke up and felt better.

Bit of a mixed week with Monday the most productive. Now able to mono hang the shallow beastmaker monos with a pinkie drag on the other arm. Love monos and getting ever better on them. Just need some victories now.

[Joe]

STG – Train more consistently/harder, improve technique, climb more 7a/7a+, get mileage on rock
MTG – Climb 7b, (House Burning Down/Bitter and Twisted) on-sight 7a
LTG – Climb 7c, climb 8a within 3 years

M - Back from Spain where I spent previous week deep water soloing. Didn't post on here sorry! Bags have not followed me back...
T- Bag still not back. Have no climbing shoes.
W- Bag back! Bouldering session. Indoor technique has gone down a bit over summer, been outdoors all the time. No bad thing really! Not very structured, not sure of training value. Do a bit of campus board work with feet on kick board.
T - Nothing.
F - Bouldering session. Fairly short. Climb a bit better, but really tired (sleepy). Practically falling asleep between problems, but climbing some hard ones for me!
S - Nothing
S - Nothing

Been a busy week asides from climbing, new uni term just started and its 9-4/5. Trying to work out if I can be at gym for 7.30 when it opens do an hours climbing a make 9am lectures. Think its possible! Next week hopefully will do more sessions (unless re-rerouting gets in the way), try do more spesfic training, and sleep more so I can train more efficiently!

[nai]

Sep goals - regain lost strength, OS 7a
2010 goals - 7C, 8a, E4, Sturgeon.

M - Max Buttress, onsighted a 7a and a 6c+, stopped by a reachy clip on the other 7a, got it 1st RP.
t
W - first fingerboard session for months, max hangs to identify how weak a summer of actual climbing has left me.  Very, it seems.
t
F  - fingerboard, max hangs. Better
s
s

Monday was pretty good for a first session in almost two weeks, the 7a OS was very bouldery though and felt pretty soft, would like to get on stuff at Two Tier which would be more like what I'm after I think.  Time on a rope will be pretty limited throughout September so likely to be more training/bouldering oriented.  2010 sport aims should probably be downgraded, looks like I've blown the opportunity to have a chance at Powerplant and Free Monster but I suppose the permadry options might still be feasible, if less motivating.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Hard F7b+, F7c, F7c+, F8a before 2014 and.... Boulder 7B+ this season (new one that).

M: Nowt
T: Bouldering @ The Works - Heavy gravity day, was a bit shit....
W: Bar and core work... 3 sets of 3 x pullups, 30sec 45 degree lock, 30sec slightly bent arms, 3 x pullups... Last 3 pulls were the living end! 3 sets of 4 different core excercises in sets of 10 for 3 minutes - thought I was gonna hurl!
T: Sore abs... Pint in the Sheaf.
F: DJ'd at the Depot comp, did a bit of climbing but a spinning top hold left me with a headache and whiplash after cratering on me head... Did a 6c and a 6c+ on the circuit board once the headache wore off.
S: Cheedale... Wet and covered in a substance closely related to toothpaste! Went to Rubicon, got on Salar again - still nails! Managed to get set up for throw better though.. Not likely anytime soon though.
S: Walk and climb tiny slabs with 3 year old... (he's got potential I tell ya;-)

Did a bit but still not enough.. Off to Italy (Ancona and Arco) in October so gonna work out summat in order to maximise my chances of achieving at least one of my goals (an F7c would be nice) - worried that the Cornice and the Nook are now permaf*cked for the next 5 years (Noooooooooooooo!!!! ). Off to Font next week but going to use it more as a movement and training trip as I've not really bouldered much so will probably concentrate more on circuits than specific problems (be nice to tick the odd 7 though:-). Glad the neck and head are fine and the dodgy finger's just weak now, not sore....

This week.... Climb, train, eat less.

:D

[Derek Mild]

STG: Rehab arm to a decent level
MTG: Go west, Breakfast, onsight E3 by the end of the year.
LTG: Onsight E5, boulder font 7b


S: Bouldered Burbage West, did Go West, rehab is progressing well
M: Weights
T: Pulled back, rest
W: rest
TH: soloed 10 problems/routes at Burbage, arm responded well
F: rest
S: rest
S: Stanage for trad, led E1, did 6 routes, arm still responding well.

Next is to increase the training frequency for a mini peak in early October and finish Breakfast at Burbage West

[Muenchener]

... max hangs to identify how weak a summer of actual climbing has left me.  Very, it seems.

Climbing is indeed poor training for training.

[shark]

... max hangs to identify how weak a summer of actual climbing has left me.  Very, it seems.

Climbing is indeed poor training for training.

  During the climbing season its a good strategy to make time for a strength or steep bouldering session every 10days or so for maintenance.

[nai]

It would indeed have been a good idea but having not done routes for years suddenly in June I found myself with three months off and started getting out three times a week.  Obviously I had no endurance so this was the weakest link in the chain and was what I worked on.  Working power would have been a nice option but as long as there was dry rock to go at and partners to go with it seemed a bit daft to boulder when I was climbing a the limit of my endurance rather than the limit of my strength. 

I'm not that fussed, getting back up to strength won't take long and I've had a great summer, I've been to new places, met new people and climbed some great routes.  I  haven't missed bouldering but did actually dust the pads down yesterday and went out for a a fun couple of hours, roll on the cold weather but until then there's still dry limestone to go at.

[chris05]

Just back from scotland so late posting this week, but here goes:

M: Beastmaker (repeaters), 5m run & core (400)
T: BM (repeaters), 5m run, core (400) and elbow weights
W: 40l swim (crawl), core (400) & elbow weights
T: pull-ups, press-ups, 5m run, core (400) & elbow weights
F: 5m run, 40l swim (crawl) & core (400)
S: travel to scotland for family week
S: wedding