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Brittany Bouldering (Read 38040 times)

tomtom

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Brittany Bouldering
September 07, 2010, 05:32:37 pm
Just back from a cracking week in Brittany and thought I'd write down some words to share what a great place it was! There is some superb bouldering along the north coast. I was there for 6 days and managed to climb/boulder every day. The locations were superb – coastal locations mostly on or right next to gorgeous empty sandy beachces – which kept MrsTT happy whilst I floundered on the boulders. I’ve made a short (and fairly crap) video of my puntering efforts as it gives you a better idea of what was what... there were three main areas I found which I’ll talk about below. Sorry the video’s a bit crap but I ran out of SD space and some was filmed on the phone.. also I only had one small mat and some of the stuff was pretty highball – so I used all my courage and only climbed the low/easy stuff! All areas were really quiet (was the week after the French Holidays end) chilled, relatively inexpensive, not too hot, not too cold... winning. If you also like Swimming/Kite/Surfing/Sailing type things its a fantastic area.. loads to do and really chilled out.

 



Roche de Napolean:

The rock in the video was fine grained granite. Superb friction, mixture of cracks and small flakes – lots of burly sloper action too (rather like grit climbing). The probs on the vid are only about 5/5+ but on the reverse of the block there was a great 6b traverse and a few good straight ups. The second time I visited the rocks I bumped into a chap called Ivan, who (according to my poor French and his poor English) worked for the French BMC – he also talked me through the problems. The overhanging nose on the left went at about 7b (2 or 3 variations) and felt superb on big undercuts to slopey lips – though was too hard for me (I blame the excessive cheese consumption). The outcrops around the rock in the picture also had some bolts on them, and when I asked Ivan whether or not there was more climbing in the area he waved and suggested everywhere... This outcrop was probably just under at high tide – but was bone dry when I was there.


Tregastel:

This was the area mentioned in the Midlands rock climbing guide to Brittany bouldering ( http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/bouldering_in_brittany.htm ) – its located on the Cote du Granite Rose – which is an amazing 10k of coast (and inland) dominated by huge pink granite boulders. The rock here was coarser granite, some razor sharp, with great chicken heads and flakes. This area was tidal – but with an 8m tidal range it was dry for a good 8 hours per cycle.. On the W.Midlands guide they mentioned they were high – but the video gives you an idea of how big! The first problem in the vid (Mastadon grade?) looked ace, but I couldn’t hang the slopers in the heat (and it kept slicing my palm!) also there was no obvious way down! Around the RH side of the same boulder were a couple of great face problems on smears and chicken heads at c.6a/6a+. The back end of this had a mad 45 degree overhanging face c.2.5m high with a few small features (one leading to a lip jug) that looked like amazing potential. The main face (LH of the arête I was trying) looked incredible – some chicken heads dotted up it indicated potential – but with one small mat and no spotter... The smaller boulder behind had an easier angled face (but high) which is the second (easy) problem (4+) and the third clip from this site is just me puntering around on a slab but shows the fantastic scenery. There is loads to go at here – if you had a spotter and a couple of mats it would be fantastic. I can post up some other pics of lines I tried but bottled etc.. The w.Midlands guide mentions c.10 problems here but having explored the other blocks theres an easy days worth of exploration there.. Location wise its bang on the beach which is (sadly) a bit more developed than the first site (cafe’s etc..).


near Plogasnou:

I stumbled across this site whilst looking for somewhere nice to eat a picnic. Its on a headland just west of Pougasnou and back on finer grained granite. The problem in the vid was located in a spectacular spot – the shelf its on ends about 1.5 left of the horn shaped rock and then drops c.15 to the wave cut platform. I justify my poor climbing by having no mat nor spotter and a huge drop to the left. Great problem though.. This problem appeared to be part of a circuit! There were route and problem numbers and the Font style arrows pointing to the next problem etc.. Sadly I’d left the mat at the Gite that day, and MrsT must have eaten a moule that disagreed with her so I couldn’t stay long and explore – but well worth a look around. Someone has spent some time sorting the place out with short bolted routes and a circuit (though it needed a good clean so not much action I suspect). All above the tide line. Wish I had more time to go back there...

A great place to explore – I would thoroughly recommend it.. we lucked out with the weather the week we were there but its an amazing coastline to explore with stacks and stacks of unclimbed problems – deserted beaches – fantastic seafood. It needs a little exploration but I found things to climb every day fitting in around beach/lunch/sightseeing schedules (and a wedding)...

 :thumbsup:

(typed all this in yesterday and thought it lost in the crash... found again in my browser cache...)

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#1 Re: Brittany Bouldering
September 07, 2010, 09:31:36 pm
Nice write up.
Have been to tregastel before, where did you stay?
We stayed at camping le Ranolien in ploumanach which was good.
Might go next week for a quick family holiday. What ferry did you get, prices etc..
Cheers

tomtom

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#2 Re: Brittany Bouldering
September 07, 2010, 10:00:46 pm
We were staying in Penvenan about 2km south of Port Blanc (it was where my mate was getting married - hence excuse reason for the holiday). There was a campsite by the Plage Dune at Port Blanc that looked a bit simple but was smack on the plage and quiet ( )

The coast aroud this area was superb - loads of islands, tombolo's storm beaches, causeways to get to islands etc.. as you can see from the google image. This beach/spot was reccomended by the locals (bit of a walk at low tide) but fantastic spot. Limited bouldering/scrambling - but superb spot.

Further west, Trestel and Trelevern were more populated and had a bit more in the way of cafe's/beach infrastructure etc..
Further west still, Peroz Guirec and Trestel were bigger centres - shops/cafe's and again more beaches... Climbing at Tregastel Plage was quite spectacular (thuogh I was a pussy as huge boulders) but the beach was a backed by a bit of a concrete prom which was a bit less characterful than other areas.. From Peroz to Tregastel was on the pink granite - and there may well be more bouldering places along the coast (theres supposed to be a great walk from Peroz from Tregastel along the coast (4-5km I think) but we didnt go there.

The last place we went to, was on the way back from visiting Cairn Barnarnez, a 6500 year old pyramid thing (which was OK but not really worth the hour or so drive from where we were staying) but the bouldering area and bits of circuit found on the way back made it worthwhile.

Ferry wise - we went at peak times (school hols) with Condor from Poole to St Malo. It was £370 for car & 2 people etc.. 5 1/2 hour crossing which included stopping at Jersey (they didnt say that on the website!). Roscoff may be a bit closer, but I think you have to sail from Plymouth to get there! Condor were fine - cheapish but cheerful.. (got a bottomless coffee cup for rip off £3.40 which also seemed to work on the way back, and got us > 10 cups of tea  ;D)

Camping - I dont know really - if the weathers turd (as it can be - its like cornwall really) it may be grim. But as the french hols finished 2 weeks ago everywhere will be dead (markets may not be on as well). We hired a Gite for E330 for the week which I thought was a bargain, but others at the wedding hired 4-6 bed Gites for about the same in Trestel... Its off season so you could get some great Gite deals...

We went to a few mroe places who's names I didnt remember - but if you get on the small coast road you just cruise along until you come to a little sandy cove - or a road down to a cove/bay and stop off for a couple of hours until you fancy going somewhere else - of have some lunch etc... I only had the bouldering info for Tregastel before I went and just followed my nose and found the other two places... I suspect theres stacks more to explore...



mrjonathanr

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#3 Re: Brittany Bouldering
September 08, 2010, 02:29:46 pm

Strangely no mention of the south coast:
Bouldering in Brittany has a long history (allegedly)

tomtom

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#4 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 04, 2011, 10:20:54 pm
Just saw a post on the other channel - this link may be useful for anyone thinking of heading to Brittany...

http://krimpadenn.free.fr/


slackline

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#5 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 05, 2011, 07:14:33 am
Just saw a post on the other channel - this link may be useful for anyone thinking of heading to Brittany...

http://krimpadenn.free.fr/

Nice, as it happens have just decided to head here for a week at the end of May with the wife (this thread was in the back of my mind when I suggested it  ;)).

tomtom

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#6 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 06, 2011, 10:25:28 am
Just saw a post on the other channel - this link may be useful for anyone thinking of heading to Brittany...

http://krimpadenn.free.fr/

Nice, as it happens have just decided to head here for a week at the end of May with the wife (this thread was in the back of my mind when I suggested it  ;)).

Forgot to say... worth finding out when local towns/villages have their marked (usually on different days etc..) as these are top places to get some superb food... and check where the nearest Decathlon's are (there are a few) as if the weather craps out, a 30euro wetsuit and a board is a good way of passing the time! (theres some top beaches/surf etc..)

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#7 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 06, 2011, 10:27:26 am
Good tips, will be starting planning in the next few days, cheers.

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#8 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 06, 2011, 10:29:58 am
i've been thinking about a trip there in june, mainly for the surf. I know it won't necessarily be the most dependable time to go swell consistency-wise so it's good to know there are some boulders to prattle about on and work up a tidy little sweat!

cheers for the heads up, it'll be re-visiting some family holiday haunts from my younger days too. ahh camping on the beach and watching the topless ladies go by left quite an impression on me as an 8 year old...

tomtom

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#9 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 06, 2011, 10:36:04 am
From what I gathered (a friends inlaws live there) the only real time of year to avoid is the french summer holidays - as to Parisiens, Brittany has become what Cornwall and Devon has become to Londoners (2nd homes, busy etc..)

Nigel Poustie

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#10 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 08:22:05 pm
Hi, Does anyone know of any topos or guides to the bouldering around brittany?

tomtom

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#11 Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 08:33:00 pm
I think there's a French website somewhere, but don't know it off hand... If you racked up to the spots I went to then you'd find plenty to keep you busy.. But it was kind of figure it out for yourself.. I think one of the beastmakers went there a couple of years ago might be something on their blog..?

Nigel Poustie

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#12 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 08:39:04 pm
what would it be like with kids?

tomtom

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#13 Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 08:45:36 pm
Two places I went to were on beaches - shingle and sand. The second place in my crappy vid was a huge sandy beach. Theres lots of other places if you snoop around. It's beautiful coastline.. Loads of great walks, Markets, scenery etc..

Gets busy and more pricey during French hols.. It's like Cornwall, as in all the Parisiens have a country house there as rich Londoners do in devon/Cornwall. Ferry prices can get steep during the season, Brit ferries most direct but most expensive..

tomtom

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#14 Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 08:49:34 pm
Erm that means good for kids in my view (soz!)

fried

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#15 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 09:44:50 pm
http://fr.calameo.com/read/0003342350691b3f02749

I seem to recall there was more at one time but it disappeared a while back. Lovely place.

Bubba

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#16 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 07, 2012, 05:29:02 am
http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/kerlouan.html

Downloadable Kerlouan topo: Topo de Kerlouan

And loads of info on the link Tom posted earlier

maryveganclimber

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#17 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 25, 2012, 10:35:54 pm
Hey I'll be in Brittany on July 6 to 7th.

Can you tell me best places I should check out to boulder?

Cheers!

Dr T

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#18 Re: Brittany Bouldering
July 17, 2012, 09:37:04 pm
Dear knowledgeable UKB massive

any leads (other than  :google:) on a topo for, what appears to me to be, a cheaper alternative the the British Virgin Islands!

I've followed http://fr.calameo.com/read/0003342350691b3f02749
not much help

The better looking lead led to a site that wanted paying for  what could have been just at useless..

Kerlouan looks a good bet for a family beach holiday  ;D

tomtom

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#19 Re: Brittany Bouldering
July 17, 2012, 09:41:14 pm
All the beaches were superb... just try and go outside of French hol season...

Dr T

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#20 Re: Brittany Bouldering
July 17, 2012, 10:09:07 pm
All the beaches were superb... just try and go outside of French hol season...

Good call - Thanks

Was actually wondering if there was a lead on a topo (should have said - sorry  :-[)

SA Chris

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#21 Re: Brittany Bouldering
July 18, 2012, 11:41:10 am
Article on climbing in Brittany in Latest Climb. Some good looking stuff.

Dr T

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#22 Re: Brittany Bouldering
July 18, 2012, 06:56:27 pm
Article on climbing in Brittany in Latest Climb. Some good looking stuff.

funny that just popped out to buy it (not knowing about said article) but Smiths was closed...
did get me a pizza and some olives though (not many olives left now mind)
will try again tomorrow

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#23 Re: Brittany Bouldering
March 09, 2013, 07:33:50 pm
seemed a reasonable place to post this

warning: this film contains scenes of slack-lining


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#24 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 11, 2015, 08:33:24 pm
Off to Brittany (Erquy) for the last two weeks of August so seems like a good excuse to don my rock boots and take a pad. 

Are there any maps/guides/topos available anywhere?


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#25 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 11, 2015, 08:57:14 pm
krimpadenn.fr used to have a good map but it isn't working for me anymore.

The info at zebloc.com lead me to this : http://escalade22.perso.neuf.fr/blocs_erquy.html but to be honest it looks a bit crap.

tomtom

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#26 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 11, 2015, 10:17:09 pm
Some nice looking rocks on the sandy cove north of there on ooglegoogle maps...

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#27 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 08:22:50 am

I went to the Kerlouan area a few years back and used the topo linked to in Bubba’s post. TBH it was utterly unfathomable. It’s some sort of complex fold together thing, but most of the pages aren’t numbered so is very hard to work out, especially if you don’t fully understand the language. That said it’s good enough to get you to the crag and highlight a few problems.



http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/kerlouan.html

Downloadable Kerlouan topo: Topo de Kerlouan

And loads of info on the link Tom posted earlier

There’s a lot of interesting rock to explore and some good probs dotted about, all on excellent beaches.

T_B

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#28 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 08:45:03 am
Love the bit in that BM vid where he's warming up in the kids play area! I think I know where we might be going on holiday next summer :-\

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#29 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 08:48:49 am
Bit further south then Kerlouan but I was in Brittany for a wedding a few weeks ago and had a quick session here

http://www.krimpadenn.fr/articles/208-spot-saint-guenole

and here:

http://www.krimpadenn.fr/articles/209-spot-lesconil

The topos on that site are shit but the boulders are pretty easy to be find to be honest. Some terrible landings but also some good ones which would be fine with one pad. Saint Guenole had a few non-tidal boulders which were pretty good. Def worth a couple of hours bumbling. Lesconil has one big futuristic boulder on the right hand side of the beach (looking out) which looked like it had potential for some very hard stuff. Also a lovely beach.

tomtom

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#30 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 09:19:50 am
The next lump of coast along west from where you are (from what I can see on the maps) is the 'pink granite' coastline - and its fantastic. Lots of little islands - often linked by shingly spits and bars - but with a mahoosive tidal range, so you can walk from inacessible spot to spot at low tide.

And of course, the obligatory french market in a different town/village different days - so theres normally a good supply of produce to keep you going (sausage and fried potato stall was my carboliferous favourite..)...

As Stello below said - the areas I found didnt look well trampled - but were 'areas' - ie holds were cleaned and landings a little smoother/less vegetated/trampled than others. Most of the spots I went to were next to great beaches....

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#31 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 12:23:40 pm
Thanks for all the replies!  We're there for two weeks with a car so should have plenty of time to explore.  Never been to the region before so I'm really looking forward to it.  My GF is French so won't have any problems getting around and translating.

Thanks again all.

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#32 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 12:43:31 pm
Carnac is very nice and has lots of boulders, in fact there are tons like them dotted around. :clown:

Carnac by slack---line, on Flickr
Menhir by slack---line, on Flickr
Dolmen du Crucuno by slack---line, on Flickr


Tangent, but the aquarium in Brest was brilliant, one of the best I've been to (although I've not yet visited The Deep).

SA Chris

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#33 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 01:44:22 pm
Thanks for all the replies!  We're there for two weeks with a car so should have plenty of time to explore.  Never been to the region before so I'm really looking forward to it. 

You taking surfboards? Looks like some great beaches round to west.

tomtom

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#34 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 01:48:21 pm
Wallet and Stomach are most important things to take ;) beware though - if you're there during French hol season it'll be busy... Our friends who's parents live there flippantly remark that Paris empties to Bretagne during summer...

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#35 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 03:24:21 pm
Haha - you know from my FB updates I have no problem emptying my wallet on fine food and wine. 

Chris - yep, taking a board but don't think I'll bother driving all the way to the Atlantic though.  I'll just go local if there's a decent swell which you sometimes get come August time.

Always wanted to visit Carnac Slackers - great pics. Thanks.

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#36 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 04:45:34 pm
Bit further south then Kerlouan but I was in Brittany for a wedding a few weeks ago and had a quick session here

http://www.krimpadenn.fr/articles/208-spot-saint-guenole

and here:

http://www.krimpadenn.fr/articles/209-spot-lesconil

The topos on that site are shit but the boulders are pretty easy to be find to be honest. Some terrible landings but also some good ones which would be fine with one pad. Saint Guenole had a few non-tidal boulders which were pretty good. Def worth a couple of hours bumbling. Lesconil has one big futuristic boulder on the right hand side of the beach (looking out) which looked like it had potential for some very hard stuff. Also a lovely beach.

ooh, we'll be near there this summer (Penmarc'h)

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#37 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 12, 2015, 05:45:41 pm
Just seen this.  Tregastel is ace isnt it.  We stayed here about 14 years ago and bouldered between here and Ploumanach.  I think Stevie Haston did some stuff here, and alao Olivier Le Breton.  I did a nice new 7c+ called a la broche.  Great memories, boulders cider and pancakes!

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#38 Re: Brittany Bouldering
August 25, 2015, 11:37:28 am
It's beautiful here.. Very Welsh/Cornish feel to it including the 50mph winds and horizontal rain we had yesterday.  I cracked several ribs the week before coming here so no climbing or surfing unfortunately but it's been nice to just relax.  Read lots of books, played lots of guitar, eaten lovely local food and drunk plenty of great wine. 

SA Chris

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#39 Re: Brittany Bouldering
August 25, 2015, 11:43:03 am
High on the list for a family camping trip in the next couple of years!

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#40 Re: Brittany Bouldering
August 25, 2015, 12:33:12 pm
I had a mess about on Les Rochers de Saint-Guénolé the other week

some good mini-boulders for kids there too

not me, but gives you an idea




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#41 Re: Brittany Bouldering
August 25, 2015, 12:50:28 pm
You're all mistaken, Cornwall is more expensive and more popular therefore obviously far better. Brittany beaches are all practically deserted they're so rubbish, the markets are full of obviously terrible food and drink they can't even get rid of even at ridiculous low prices. And the weather, might as well stay at home. Really, stay away, it's just not worth it.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk


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#42 Re: Brittany Bouldering
August 25, 2015, 01:11:45 pm
Plus it gets worse weather, surf is less consistent, water colder and more crowded.

Best stay away.

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#43 Re: Brittany Bouldering
August 29, 2015, 01:03:23 pm
the little lad playing on the boulders near the campsite we were on



I did a dozen or more OK straight ups between 3 and 5+ on the bigger boulders - with a bit of cleaning and some sticky rubber there's a few more lines to do

here

only 200m from the campsite

SA Chris

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#44 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 01:22:25 pm
Thinking of a couple of weeks in Brittany in July (Scottish holidays start early) probably drive in van and do Eurocamp type deal. Take bike, surf gear, climbing gear. What's weather likely to be like? Scorchio? Chance of rain?

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#45 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 01:27:03 pm
Think SW coast, so if you'd happily go to Cornwall...
Make sure you get the long ferry rather than do the huge dull drive down from Calais (as we did  :slap:)

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#46 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 01:33:48 pm
Brittany ferries seem to be about twice as much as everyone else... Iirc Cherbourg is about 90-120 min further drive but much cheaper (and shorter) crossings...

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#47 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 01:34:11 pm
+1 to Bonjoy. Just like Cornwall.

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#48 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 01:38:32 pm
BTW it's a great place to go push-netting for brown shrimps (the sort you make potted shrimp with). Quite common to see push nets on sale in local shops round there.
http://www.countrylife.co.uk/life-in-the-country/how-to-go-shrimping-6742

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#49 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 01:43:36 pm
Decathlon sometimes sell big shrimp nets on the internet

fold up one for van life

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/folding-net-id_8017529.html
« Last Edit: May 12, 2016, 01:50:43 pm by lagerstarfish »

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#50 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 01:58:07 pm

Make sure you get the long ferry rather than do the huge dull drive down from Calais (as we did  :slap:)

I think after the drive from Aberdeen more driving will be the last thing we want to do!

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#51 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 02:44:02 pm
I had two weeks there last August Chris.  It's a lovely place.  We had one week of blazing sun and one week of rain but it was the last week of August and it always rains then regardless of whereever you are.

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#52 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 03:44:35 pm
we'll see you there Chris!

ok maybe not, we'll going at the beginning of August..

we're going to Morgat for a week or so, which has some good surf beaches nearby and seems like there might be some dws/cragging potential.  Then probably up to the north coast to Ploumanach (?) north of Lannion which seems to have blocs.. not sure whether there'll be much bouldering to do, but any is a bonus on the family summer holiday!

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#53 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 03:48:56 pm
Chris - we stayed here last year

http://www.yellohvillage.co.uk/camping/la_plage

it was ace

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#54 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 04:00:33 pm
Chris - we stayed here last year

http://www.yellohvillage.co.uk/camping/la_plage

it was ace
We've just booked 6 nights there after Lagers recommendation (are you one commission?  ;D). 25-31 July. Not quite sure how yet but planning on taking camping stuff, bikes, bodyboards, boots etc! Catching the end of the TdF with a few nights in Paris then heading over. Looking forward to it.

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#55 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 12, 2016, 04:04:24 pm
[So excited he posted it twice...]
« Last Edit: May 12, 2016, 04:28:33 pm by Obi-Wan is lost... »

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#56 Re: Brittany Bouldering
September 22, 2022, 04:26:32 pm
Extension to the Brittany vibe, has anyone climbed at Pen Hir? Crozon Peninsula looks to tick boxes of surf beach, sheltered beach, not too far from bouldering and  bit of cragging, plus some of the usual tourist trappings.

Is there easily accessible stuff for family as well as some more challenging stuff to do too?

 

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