UKBouldering.com

Brittany Bouldering (Read 38244 times)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
Brittany Bouldering
September 07, 2010, 05:32:37 pm
Just back from a cracking week in Brittany and thought I'd write down some words to share what a great place it was! There is some superb bouldering along the north coast. I was there for 6 days and managed to climb/boulder every day. The locations were superb – coastal locations mostly on or right next to gorgeous empty sandy beachces – which kept MrsTT happy whilst I floundered on the boulders. I’ve made a short (and fairly crap) video of my puntering efforts as it gives you a better idea of what was what... there were three main areas I found which I’ll talk about below. Sorry the video’s a bit crap but I ran out of SD space and some was filmed on the phone.. also I only had one small mat and some of the stuff was pretty highball – so I used all my courage and only climbed the low/easy stuff! All areas were really quiet (was the week after the French Holidays end) chilled, relatively inexpensive, not too hot, not too cold... winning. If you also like Swimming/Kite/Surfing/Sailing type things its a fantastic area.. loads to do and really chilled out.

 



Roche de Napolean:

The rock in the video was fine grained granite. Superb friction, mixture of cracks and small flakes – lots of burly sloper action too (rather like grit climbing). The probs on the vid are only about 5/5+ but on the reverse of the block there was a great 6b traverse and a few good straight ups. The second time I visited the rocks I bumped into a chap called Ivan, who (according to my poor French and his poor English) worked for the French BMC – he also talked me through the problems. The overhanging nose on the left went at about 7b (2 or 3 variations) and felt superb on big undercuts to slopey lips – though was too hard for me (I blame the excessive cheese consumption). The outcrops around the rock in the picture also had some bolts on them, and when I asked Ivan whether or not there was more climbing in the area he waved and suggested everywhere... This outcrop was probably just under at high tide – but was bone dry when I was there.


Tregastel:

This was the area mentioned in the Midlands rock climbing guide to Brittany bouldering ( http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/bouldering_in_brittany.htm ) – its located on the Cote du Granite Rose – which is an amazing 10k of coast (and inland) dominated by huge pink granite boulders. The rock here was coarser granite, some razor sharp, with great chicken heads and flakes. This area was tidal – but with an 8m tidal range it was dry for a good 8 hours per cycle.. On the W.Midlands guide they mentioned they were high – but the video gives you an idea of how big! The first problem in the vid (Mastadon grade?) looked ace, but I couldn’t hang the slopers in the heat (and it kept slicing my palm!) also there was no obvious way down! Around the RH side of the same boulder were a couple of great face problems on smears and chicken heads at c.6a/6a+. The back end of this had a mad 45 degree overhanging face c.2.5m high with a few small features (one leading to a lip jug) that looked like amazing potential. The main face (LH of the aręte I was trying) looked incredible – some chicken heads dotted up it indicated potential – but with one small mat and no spotter... The smaller boulder behind had an easier angled face (but high) which is the second (easy) problem (4+) and the third clip from this site is just me puntering around on a slab but shows the fantastic scenery. There is loads to go at here – if you had a spotter and a couple of mats it would be fantastic. I can post up some other pics of lines I tried but bottled etc.. The w.Midlands guide mentions c.10 problems here but having explored the other blocks theres an easy days worth of exploration there.. Location wise its bang on the beach which is (sadly) a bit more developed than the first site (cafe’s etc..).


near Plogasnou:

I stumbled across this site whilst looking for somewhere nice to eat a picnic. Its on a headland just west of Pougasnou and back on finer grained granite. The problem in the vid was located in a spectacular spot – the shelf its on ends about 1.5 left of the horn shaped rock and then drops c.15 to the wave cut platform. I justify my poor climbing by having no mat nor spotter and a huge drop to the left. Great problem though.. This problem appeared to be part of a circuit! There were route and problem numbers and the Font style arrows pointing to the next problem etc.. Sadly I’d left the mat at the Gite that day, and MrsT must have eaten a moule that disagreed with her so I couldn’t stay long and explore – but well worth a look around. Someone has spent some time sorting the place out with short bolted routes and a circuit (though it needed a good clean so not much action I suspect). All above the tide line. Wish I had more time to go back there...

A great place to explore – I would thoroughly recommend it.. we lucked out with the weather the week we were there but its an amazing coastline to explore with stacks and stacks of unclimbed problems – deserted beaches – fantastic seafood. It needs a little exploration but I found things to climb every day fitting in around beach/lunch/sightseeing schedules (and a wedding)...

 :thumbsup:

(typed all this in yesterday and thought it lost in the crash... found again in my browser cache...)

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#1 Re: Brittany Bouldering
September 07, 2010, 09:31:36 pm
Nice write up.
Have been to tregastel before, where did you stay?
We stayed at camping le Ranolien in ploumanach which was good.
Might go next week for a quick family holiday. What ferry did you get, prices etc..
Cheers

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#2 Re: Brittany Bouldering
September 07, 2010, 10:00:46 pm
We were staying in Penvenan about 2km south of Port Blanc (it was where my mate was getting married - hence excuse reason for the holiday). There was a campsite by the Plage Dune at Port Blanc that looked a bit simple but was smack on the plage and quiet ( )

The coast aroud this area was superb - loads of islands, tombolo's storm beaches, causeways to get to islands etc.. as you can see from the google image. This beach/spot was reccomended by the locals (bit of a walk at low tide) but fantastic spot. Limited bouldering/scrambling - but superb spot.

Further west, Trestel and Trelevern were more populated and had a bit more in the way of cafe's/beach infrastructure etc..
Further west still, Peroz Guirec and Trestel were bigger centres - shops/cafe's and again more beaches... Climbing at Tregastel Plage was quite spectacular (thuogh I was a pussy as huge boulders) but the beach was a backed by a bit of a concrete prom which was a bit less characterful than other areas.. From Peroz to Tregastel was on the pink granite - and there may well be more bouldering places along the coast (theres supposed to be a great walk from Peroz from Tregastel along the coast (4-5km I think) but we didnt go there.

The last place we went to, was on the way back from visiting Cairn Barnarnez, a 6500 year old pyramid thing (which was OK but not really worth the hour or so drive from where we were staying) but the bouldering area and bits of circuit found on the way back made it worthwhile.

Ferry wise - we went at peak times (school hols) with Condor from Poole to St Malo. It was Ł370 for car & 2 people etc.. 5 1/2 hour crossing which included stopping at Jersey (they didnt say that on the website!). Roscoff may be a bit closer, but I think you have to sail from Plymouth to get there! Condor were fine - cheapish but cheerful.. (got a bottomless coffee cup for rip off Ł3.40 which also seemed to work on the way back, and got us > 10 cups of tea  ;D)

Camping - I dont know really - if the weathers turd (as it can be - its like cornwall really) it may be grim. But as the french hols finished 2 weeks ago everywhere will be dead (markets may not be on as well). We hired a Gite for E330 for the week which I thought was a bargain, but others at the wedding hired 4-6 bed Gites for about the same in Trestel... Its off season so you could get some great Gite deals...

We went to a few mroe places who's names I didnt remember - but if you get on the small coast road you just cruise along until you come to a little sandy cove - or a road down to a cove/bay and stop off for a couple of hours until you fancy going somewhere else - of have some lunch etc... I only had the bouldering info for Tregastel before I went and just followed my nose and found the other two places... I suspect theres stacks more to explore...



mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5384
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#3 Re: Brittany Bouldering
September 08, 2010, 02:29:46 pm

Strangely no mention of the south coast:
Bouldering in Brittany has a long history (allegedly)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#4 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 04, 2011, 10:20:54 pm
Just saw a post on the other channel - this link may be useful for anyone thinking of heading to Brittany...

http://krimpadenn.free.fr/


slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#5 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 05, 2011, 07:14:33 am
Just saw a post on the other channel - this link may be useful for anyone thinking of heading to Brittany...

http://krimpadenn.free.fr/

Nice, as it happens have just decided to head here for a week at the end of May with the wife (this thread was in the back of my mind when I suggested it  ;)).

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#6 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 06, 2011, 10:25:28 am
Just saw a post on the other channel - this link may be useful for anyone thinking of heading to Brittany...

http://krimpadenn.free.fr/

Nice, as it happens have just decided to head here for a week at the end of May with the wife (this thread was in the back of my mind when I suggested it  ;)).

Forgot to say... worth finding out when local towns/villages have their marked (usually on different days etc..) as these are top places to get some superb food... and check where the nearest Decathlon's are (there are a few) as if the weather craps out, a 30euro wetsuit and a board is a good way of passing the time! (theres some top beaches/surf etc..)

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#7 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 06, 2011, 10:27:26 am
Good tips, will be starting planning in the next few days, cheers.

Iesu

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 474
  • Karma: +10/-3
#8 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 06, 2011, 10:29:58 am
i've been thinking about a trip there in june, mainly for the surf. I know it won't necessarily be the most dependable time to go swell consistency-wise so it's good to know there are some boulders to prattle about on and work up a tidy little sweat!

cheers for the heads up, it'll be re-visiting some family holiday haunts from my younger days too. ahh camping on the beach and watching the topless ladies go by left quite an impression on me as an 8 year old...

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#9 Re: Brittany Bouldering
May 06, 2011, 10:36:04 am
From what I gathered (a friends inlaws live there) the only real time of year to avoid is the french summer holidays - as to Parisiens, Brittany has become what Cornwall and Devon has become to Londoners (2nd homes, busy etc..)

Nigel Poustie

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 68
  • Karma: +5/-0
#10 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 08:22:05 pm
Hi, Does anyone know of any topos or guides to the bouldering around brittany?

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#11 Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 08:33:00 pm
I think there's a French website somewhere, but don't know it off hand... If you racked up to the spots I went to then you'd find plenty to keep you busy.. But it was kind of figure it out for yourself.. I think one of the beastmakers went there a couple of years ago might be something on their blog..?

Nigel Poustie

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 68
  • Karma: +5/-0
#12 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 08:39:04 pm
what would it be like with kids?

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#13 Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 08:45:36 pm
Two places I went to were on beaches - shingle and sand. The second place in my crappy vid was a huge sandy beach. Theres lots of other places if you snoop around. It's beautiful coastline.. Loads of great walks, Markets, scenery etc..

Gets busy and more pricey during French hols.. It's like Cornwall, as in all the Parisiens have a country house there as rich Londoners do in devon/Cornwall. Ferry prices can get steep during the season, Brit ferries most direct but most expensive..

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#14 Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 08:49:34 pm
Erm that means good for kids in my view (soz!)

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
#15 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 06, 2012, 09:44:50 pm
http://fr.calameo.com/read/0003342350691b3f02749

I seem to recall there was more at one time but it disappeared a while back. Lovely place.

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#16 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 07, 2012, 05:29:02 am
http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/kerlouan.html

Downloadable Kerlouan topo: Topo de Kerlouan

And loads of info on the link Tom posted earlier

maryveganclimber

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 11
  • Karma: +0/-0
#17 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 25, 2012, 10:35:54 pm
Hey I'll be in Brittany on July 6 to 7th.

Can you tell me best places I should check out to boulder?

Cheers!

Dr T

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1518
  • Karma: +49/-3
#18 Re: Brittany Bouldering
July 17, 2012, 09:37:04 pm
Dear knowledgeable UKB massive

any leads (other than  :google:) on a topo for, what appears to me to be, a cheaper alternative the the British Virgin Islands!

I've followed http://fr.calameo.com/read/0003342350691b3f02749
not much help

The better looking lead led to a site that wanted paying for  what could have been just at useless..

Kerlouan looks a good bet for a family beach holiday  ;D

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#19 Re: Brittany Bouldering
July 17, 2012, 09:41:14 pm
All the beaches were superb... just try and go outside of French hol season...

Dr T

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1518
  • Karma: +49/-3
#20 Re: Brittany Bouldering
July 17, 2012, 10:09:07 pm
All the beaches were superb... just try and go outside of French hol season...

Good call - Thanks

Was actually wondering if there was a lead on a topo (should have said - sorry  :-[)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29236
  • Karma: +631/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#21 Re: Brittany Bouldering
July 18, 2012, 11:41:10 am
Article on climbing in Brittany in Latest Climb. Some good looking stuff.

Dr T

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1518
  • Karma: +49/-3
#22 Re: Brittany Bouldering
July 18, 2012, 06:56:27 pm
Article on climbing in Brittany in Latest Climb. Some good looking stuff.

funny that just popped out to buy it (not knowing about said article) but Smiths was closed...
did get me a pizza and some olives though (not many olives left now mind)
will try again tomorrow

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8812
  • Karma: +812/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#23 Re: Brittany Bouldering
March 09, 2013, 07:33:50 pm
seemed a reasonable place to post this

warning: this film contains scenes of slack-lining


Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4887
  • Karma: +333/-4
    • bensblogredux
#24 Re: Brittany Bouldering
June 11, 2015, 08:33:24 pm
Off to Brittany (Erquy) for the last two weeks of August so seems like a good excuse to don my rock boots and take a pad. 

Are there any maps/guides/topos available anywhere?


 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal