Wow, those are a couple of hardassed threads. If I hadn't been sick and at home in the daytime, I would never have read all of them.
I have started trying to do a periodised training program, but a kind of basic one. I have spent absolutely years with elbow injury and have never been able to shake it off. I have had better phases and worse phases, but I have always been limited by it sooner or later.
So my periodisation routine is based around controlling my climbing/training so I don't spend too long in any one period doing maximal bouldering, as this always fucks the elbows up. I use a longer term plan to keep me psyched on doing power endurance or just endurance. Without a plan I just get bored, train too hard, and have to take it really easy for another month.
I also use my plan to keep me from getting too carried away and trying -for instance- to cane the campus board- when really I am not sufficiently injury free yet etc.
My plans are fairly flexible and cobbled together based on shorter term, more impromptue targets than posters on Rockclimbing.com seem to use. Eg, "I am going to Font for a couple of days end Feb so lets work towards" that. Then Cresciano in April. I am sure these short term and changing goals would not satisfy a proper training geek but so far I find my climbing getting better-first Font 7a last trip- with injury getting less.
Anyway, re proper periodisation: The number of days I can climb a week are fairly low and don't change a lot over the season. I can climb a couple of week nights(maybe) and one day a weekend, maybe two over the summer so all these plans where you climb for 6 sessions a week in the ARC phase are never going to happen.
I would be very interested in ideas about how to effectivly periodise when you can only climb the same number of days a week all the time.
I am sure lots of people have this problem, but it never seems to be addressed in the training manuals of our sport...
